Mopar1973Man

Correct this is why I suggest 14 to 20 PSI. Below 14 PSI is starts closing then by 10 PSI the overflow is closed. All extra cooling and luring is gone below 10 PSI.

Typically o-rings you not suppose to use any sealant on any o-rings. Heck I pulled the adapter plate off of the 2006 and didn't even mess with it and bolted it back up. I pulled it to change the rear main seal. No leaks.

For once I've got a shop truck (2006) so now I can return the (2002) to being the play truck. It sits more now since Thor was added to the fleet.

Few to look at... Check for AC noise from the alternator. Might consider checking all wiring between the ECM and the APPS sensor. Check on all grounds. If none of this works you'll need to pull the ECM and have it tested and repaired.

Also running 7x0.010 injectors. Heck just hauled the RV over 17 miles of steep climb no issues with EGTs or coolant temps. Super good power. The only way to keep heat down is have a final ratio of 3.55 to 3.73 AFTER tires. If you have 3.55 with over sized tires you'll be heading lower below 3.55.

Make sure while you doing it to change the two solenoids too. This will cover all the the electrical stuff and should resolve the fuse blowing issue.

Another thing if it got over 150k on the injectors you will need to replace injectors. Even if it still runs good, still should be changed. Like my 2006 Dodge it starts and ran fine bit of blue smoke in the morning. After running it 30 miles it dumped over 3 quarts of Diesel into the crankcase oil. (Stuck open injectors). After changing all 6 out for +50HP DAP injectors problem is gone. Way better fuel economy over the old injectors with 225k miles.

Yeah. Boost shows right for me up to about 25 PSI then after that it starts to skew. When I hit roughly 45 to 47 PSI the Quad shows me maxed out at 67 PSI. You might talk to @dripley about the MAP sensor ground and where the crimp is you might look over the MAP sensor circuit.

Made my first haul with my RV. After a long few weeks and little time off I've hitched up my RV and hauled out to a camp spot on the Snake River. Engine did fine. Just need to rebuild mt heat shield for the transmission. Making that 17 mile run on dirt roads trans got marginally hot. Towing power was good. Now time to fix all the other little things like door locks, etc.

No need to cut any wires. Like I said just 3 screws and the plug will come apart from the fuel solenoid. You can see both fuel solenoid on the bottom and the timing solenoid above. Nothing to cut period.

I can say without a doubt I found a gent that has managed in increasing the VP44 volume and capacity. We've been talking for a awhile and made a beta test pump. I can't remember the volume per stroke but it's got more than a dragon fire pump.

DAP 150HP VCO Injectors (popped at 320 bar) have been my cleanest and coolest injectors with good power.

All can be removed. Fuel solenoid is 3 screw. Then the plug will be released from the solenoid. Timing solenoid can be removed. Remove the screw and pull the solenoid valve out of the body. Fuel temp and tach signal can be removed. Two screws and carefully remove the sensor.

The reason I didn't totally bottom out was after about 150k miles of them in the block some were rather tough to break lose and get them to spin out.

Being the final ratio is low yeah it needs retard to get the turbo spooled. If he had 3.60 to 3.73 then he could start with 15 @ 1500 RPM. But low final ratio needs heavy retard to spool. But even with good final ratio 15 @ 1500 will make a manual buck at low RPMs just to be aware.

Compression test would be good step. What was the injectors popped to what pressure (bar)?

Or program your ISSPro for the optional relay to turn on and off the fan. Most forget ISSPro EV2 are USB programmable.

Dynamic Transmission is the vendor for automatic transmissions. You could talk to him about what you need done. @Dynamic

Sorry I'm all manual transmissions. Even my 1996 with Dynamic trans rebuild rare to see above 160F.

Just in the work I've done in prepping for this is unreal. I've been lucky to have one day off through the week. My tool boxes were cheap for $200 a pair. There wasn't any keys for the locks. I got lucky with the locks being they had the code on the lock and George Lock and Key in Lewiston was able to make a set of keys for $15. I've been shopping locally for tool deals to outfit the shop truck. I've got basic tools for now but I need to expand that so I'm not running for the tool box at home to make up the slack.

Reason why. When I pulled the studs out the long studs on the outside of the valve cover has some rust started and I had to clean the holes out and clean the threads. I lubed the threads on the block end to retard rusting in the future. First install I did it dry and wishing now I didn't. The other thing I bought a 10oz bottle of ARP lube for install instead of the little tiny 1.5 blister pack. This way I could really put as much lube on everything as I wished.

Exactly... I've been there before worked for people I didn't get along with and the conditions were good but not great. I'm getting older and don't want the laying in the dirt and limited shop. Done plenty of that I'm not wanting to do it anymore.

If you Idaho like I am there is no bio-diesel available. Now if I travel 125 miles I can get B5 in Oregon at a much steeper price.

Let me get started and see what happens. I might not like the conditions or work who knows this is why I'm keeping an open mind. I've been hired by many people and some cases I don't like condition or time restrictions.

I left about 1/2 turn out but after torquing to 125 foot pounds I'm pretty sure they bottomed out. I lubed both ends...