Mopar1973Man

Yeah your right but fixed...

My gauge senders are not even on the engine, but the driver side fender for easier testing and diagnostics. This is all I've got at my tap point. A shut off valve, then the sinstered metal snubber, and the the Push To Connector fitting. (PTC).

Like myself I had my PCM burned up when my alternator shorted out. It was so bad there was no circuit board to repair the burned tracers. I went to Auto Computer Specialist and ended up buying a reman'ed PCM.

Going to get much more... Already been driving it locally. Getting ready to run it out longer Get ready for a busy summer.

That's why I don't use the bleeder style. Trying to force air to travel downward against it will is just plain crazy. Air will always travel up to the highest point. Pull the entire system out and hang. Then press the slave in fast and release slowly. The air will be forced up and return to the reservoir. Instead of pumping like mad to attempt to push it out of bleeder on the slave at the very bottom. I've done a few re-bleeds with master still installed but pull most of the line straight and do the same thing. Still easier to push air UP than down.

Ouch... That suxs. I know what you mean someone dumped all my nuts in the washer can. Sort that stuff out on the floor. Now in this case sorting copper washers and measuring every one with caliper oh man that will just be crazy for someone. Just a heads up being I've seen his shop. Yeah its just not a small bind of this and that @dieselautopowerhas quite a bit in the shop and then out in the warehouse he's got racks full of ready product. Yup someone will be wishing they were peeling taters..

Copper washers are two fold. The set the spray height. Then then seal the injectors to the head and transfer the heat to the coolant.

Overhead consoles are slide and snaps. The dome light is a couple of release tabs.

Typically I never buy injection pump based on price Thoroughbred Diesel sells cheap but I don't think they are a quality rebuild. You not the only one I've heard of pump issues from TD. I typically find vendors like DAP. I actually check into where there pumps come from and if they are a Bosch Certified Rebuilder with a Bosch 815 test stand for PSG programming and flash. Being a true rebuilder ALWAYS starts with a fresh PSG and has to be ran on the test stand for like 3 hours and then the PSG flashes the PSG with all the calibration and settings.

Remember depending on the torque converter and stall speed it can pull it down. I've seen torque converters fail that are excessively tight and almost have to hold throttle up to get into gear without stalling. If the injectors check out and the idle speed is close to 800 in park then your fine on the fuel side. Now you have to look into the transmission side.

Remember MAX band is for controlling the cruise timing limit. You can set the max slider lower to cancel out the cruise timing to hold it to an absolute max. Some of what the stock Quad tune is based on. Here is step +4.0 starting at 13. You'll only gain 1 degree by 3k. No upper RPM advancement really Here is step +5.0 starting at 13. This is pretty good. Here is step +5.5. Just no way to fit a +6.0 step. This was my last one I ran just as it popped the head gasket.

Like I start at 13 degrees and step up 5.5 degrees per band. Gives excellent launching power where 15 degrees is going to be doggy.

So... here you go. All put together and running. Just gotta debug a few minor things.

Very true when I was running with high boost and possibly dropped throttle too sudden and overwhelmed the injectors with compression gases.

Look in the articles for the voltage drop test in the general articles under electrical. You need to see if you have any bad cables between batteries and the alternator. Make sure where the alternator bolts to the block you have clean grounds. Look for electrical loads that are drawing hard on the system. You could pull a fuse and probe both contacts with a DVM on amps DC and you can total up all the circuits. Optimally you want it as low as possible.

We as in @Jthor and myself wanted TH0R for a plate but it was taken. This truck is going to be our shop truck. I'm going to put tool boxes down the bed sides. Load it up and get to work. Takes time, money, and lots of effort to get it together. I've already been talking to local shops and working trades. So if they don't want to deal with diesels hook me up. I'll in return send my gasser work.

Typically the seals could be reused if needed just inspect it closely for damage or rust on the metal tip.

Bad part is @Wet Vette insurance does cover any items stolen from the car. I get to replace my camera on my own.

Mine was caused when I pasted a friends house I pulled over a 1/4 mile past flipped around looked up and there was a semi bearing down I jump into the fuel. I knew I could out run him. When I got to the driveway just before the engine died. After repriming the injection system it started. Drove it home. Then went to Council, ID. When I got home I checked the oil level I was down 3 quarts (about a quart below add). Then noticed the oil weeping out of the front of the head down along the gear case. It still starts and runs but you can see oil pushing out the front of the head slightly. As for my tune yes its got high timing in the 3k band at 29.5 degrees. My wire tap is set for minimum at 1200us. Still in all I'm going to say the drive pressure most likely pushed the head up a bit and now weeping oil.

I don't rely on the tach on the cluster to report accurate RPM data. The needle is nothing more than a stepper motor. It will flick up and down depending on value. Should use a live data tool and get actual nAnother you can try is double check valve lash on the head. I've seen a few times wherumbers. Listening to the video of start up the batteries are weak and possibly a brush out on the starter starter is slow. Should spin much faster. Then the check gauge light and the voltage was low in the first video. Address this too, this is where the bad alternator diodes come from is the heavy load on the system and the batteries are weak.

The only reason why I said what I did its really common out here that lift kits and tires are typically done together. Most assume just a 1 or 2 inch leveling kits is harmless and won't mess with the axle alignment which sadly is not true. Once you do any leveling ot lift kit in the front the thrust angle (track bar length is wrong) and then the lower control arm adjustment for caster cant get enough because of the axle pushed down caster is typically washed out why the huge amount of complaints about steering issues and wondering.

Well... I finally got back from DAP with the injectors and started the next day stuffing the +50 HP injectors in to the 2006 Dodge which has been named "Thor". I will say after getting all the work done and being able to drive it for the first time in nearly 3 YEARS. Yup the previous owner left it out in a field for over 2 years with a wiped out throw-out bearing. Now with the injectors and new clutch it runs pretty good. I still got a wastegate solenoid to get or fix. The best for last... I did custom license plates on the truck... MPR73MN

Two man job. Just the pure weight of it and aligning on the dowel pins is rather tough. The only thing will take time is getting all the studs out and back in.

Might be high on the drive pressure. I know few mention this well it finally gave up. No biggie being ive done a few its not hard. Just a heavy SOB head to pull careful and place.

Both are Michael... @JAG1 Michael G. Then @Mopar1973Man Michael N. No goof but had to a bit of fun...