Mopar1973Man

Just keep in mind about the starter brushes they will wear out about the life of two sets contacts. I've still got my OEM starter in the shop and need a set of brushes for the starter and new contacts it would be ready for an extended life now.

Keep your oil leaks to a minimum. Then keep all rubber clean of oil and fuel it will cause it to degrade faster. 431k miles and still got good engine mounts and the rubber is in good shape. I would figure that the engine just needs to be supported. If you remove the bolts from the bolt and the long bolt through the the mount it should lift out of the cradle its sitting in. Might need a long extension and wobble joint and impact gun and shoot most of them from the bottom. I know the driver side has quite a bit around it you could pull the ECM and fuel filter out and gain more room to getting the bolts out of the block. Starter is only 3 bolts and fairly easy to pull from under the truck. More or less remove what you need to gain working room and you should be able to get the mounts out.

Large pictures might be filter out... Server software being weird.

Also using a snubber, but I don't worry about the needle vale it can be open wide because the snubber will do its job. The valve is a safety cut off if there is a plumbing leak.

Some time you need to rely on live data. Then remove any add on like tuners to see if the tuner is at fault, which sometimes happens. Then at least you know what is at fault sensor, boost fooler or wiring. Like @dripley has been fighting the MAP sensor issue for awhile.

Good to hear at least the MAP sensor was a easy fix to the issue.

No. The pressure gauge line will get air in the line even after being bled. No. You need to tap the starter just briefly then it will start the lift pump prime cycle. Runs for about 25 seconds. Typically I crack 1, 3, and 4. Then crank it over till it nearly starts of the fuel can be seen from the lines. Then close them back up and startthe engine. Air just makes the fuel compressible. Since it can't reach 4,500 PSI it will never fire so you bled out 3 line and should make it capable of starting. Air is fine to pass through for priming purpose. I'm running on my 2002 Dodge DAP (Diesel Auto Power) +150HP injectors. (7 x 0.010) popped at 320 bar. Then on the 2006 Dodge I'm running +50 DAP injectors (Common Rail). I've had super good results with the Diesel Auto Power injectors I can say all injectors are built in house and bench tested before sale. I would say between +100 to +150HP injectors are very safe. The only give is the Quadzilla tuner I'm running is keeping my EGTs down low and economy up just a bit.

UPDATE So my first job was handling the property managers 1977 Ford F-250 400 CID that has been sitting for over 10 years. Carburetor Rebuild Replaced over 12 feet of fuel line Power washed the crud out the fuel tank. Hooked up a fuel filter at the fuel tank. Added a fuel pressure regulator. Changed spark plugs Changed upper and lower radiator hoses. Starter solenoid replaced New keys made for ignition lock. New ignition module Finally after some help from my good friend "Shawn Davis" we got it up and running yesterday and now I continue to now do all the fluid changes. Since it raining today I'm going to be at home clean up another mess. My first job for the Peterson Family is going to pull a 2 cycle engine from a Cushman Snow Machine. I've been told by Neal (Property Manager) that Peterson's have ordered a short block engine for this machine and should be here very soon. Compression is only a mere 80 PSI and the engine only runs for a small amount of time like 5 to 10 minutes then it will not run till it cools off again. Compression just too low to keep running.

I did that long ago. Now I don't even worry... Yes I had a low pressure light too and had to solder a ground wire to the brass fitting to make it work. Yeah some time the solder would fail and the ground would drop off. Not a good solution. Now my current solution is a ISSPro EV2 fuel pressure gauge with a USB programmable low pressure light. So I plug in the USB cable and I can flash the fuel pressure gauge to trip the low pressure light at 13 PSI. There is several other functions like lighting, optional aux relay that is programmable. etc. These are the best gauges you can get. Old setup DiPricol mechanical gauge and my low pressure light. Now the current setup... USB cable... Ready for programming...

Soon as I get free time been working 12 hour days. I'm pretty beat tonight.

Is the shaft linkage adjusted enough to allow the shift properly?

All timing is electronically controlled by the ECM. The P0216 code more or less means the injection pump timing piston is seized up in the bore. From here on out is replacement of the VP44. Sorry to say.

Just a tidbit for others. I just did new wheel bearings on the front of the 2006 Dodge. I ordered the NAPA fleet series bearings. They are coated to protect the metals. Needless to say I had the passenger side ABS made contact with the rotor. Yup ate the cable through one wire. I just swapped an old sensor back. The new one is repairable. For sure not like the 2002 ABS codes are stored and require a tool that can read and erase ABS codes. After the swap it reset and all lights are back off once again.

I guess I'll have to apply more force to get that shaft out. All I've done they typically just slide out. This one is acting like there is a clip or something holding the shaft from coming out. I've got joints for both sides now and a control arm bushing. Just gotta get the passenger side shaft out.

I just heard of people using Flex Seal for RV roofs. I would for sure look at that as an option.

Don't get me wrong I've got a small 2kw generator but I need a 100 foot cord and move the generator way out in the woods. Hence the small solar and inverter setup. Like my trip to Pittsburg Landing on Memorial Day I listened to all the generators all day long. Since I had Kayden (Jake's son) we fired up the TV and fell asleep with it running all night. Woke up and the TV was still playing that movie series. Turn the solar panels around it was charging still while the TV was still going. No issues with charging tablets and cell phones too.

Here is the article...

My Jayco is outfitted with 1,200 watt inverter. No sound or noise from the inverter and the solar panels keep the batteries charged up. Just flip two switches and the house has 120 VAC in all the outlets. No gasoline, no noise, just peace and quiet.

Hey guys. I've got to do wheel joints on the front axle. Now the driver side shaft just slides out. Now the passenger side shaft won't come out even prying against it. Is there a clip in the differential or what? Weird the driver side shaft just about falls out and slides in easy as pie. That passenger shaft is resisting the idea of coming out. Ideas, thoughts, or a bit of knowledge? Just finished up replacing both front unit bearings. This is when I found the passenger side shaft has a worn out wheel joint. I've got both wheel joints here and can easily do it at another time but the whole problem of the getting that passenger shaft out of the axle is my biggest issue.

Yup. Still good here with the 320 bar. Very clean burning very little smoke.

I run the ISSPro EV2 fuel pressure gauge. The got the ISSPro programming cable and set the warning light at 13 PSI. There is even more programmable functions in each gauge. Even can install the optional relay and you can set level for the relay to control like trans temp gauge set the relay for 160F but set the warning light for 200F.

If still shifting weird replace the output speed sensor in the tail of the transmission.

1300 for a rebuild is HIGH. Might look at Diesel Auto Power. They carry the reman'ed pumps for much less also by a certified Bosch rebuilder.

Personally I like solder ends this seals out the salt and the wires are more or less welded to the ring terminal.

Best to pull the VP44 to do it right. I've got both articles on pulling the VP44 and doing the tappet cover.