Mopar1973Man

As long as there is no OBDII error codes and low smoke it will pass. Cam can't be detected by any smog shop.

Personally I've never used any sealant product for coolant system in the Cummins. I done it once in my 1996 Dodge and it made quite the mess out of the cooling system. I got it flushed out and replaced the intake manifold gasket the was bleeding out over the front of the engine. Changing the gasket did way better than adding the stop leak which only bought time and eventually start to weep again later on. NOTE: Old mechanic trick back in the day for junkers was to mix a can of condensed milk and pepper together. Not something I would even suggest but in a pinch it would work just like any stop leak product. Just more fun to flush that stuff out later.

This truck had a "Bully Dog" again another tuner that is just a rail pressure adder. Doesn't flash the ECM for core values. Like Quadzilla is all 2D layout for the most part but when you get to common rail its all 3D graphs. Then this data is flashed back to the ECM. most of these hijacks the CANBus signal throws a "priority command" then injects the new value to the bus and the VP44 takes it. The other thing I'll need to setup Virtualbox and get my copy of Windows back out. The only two common tuners that do flash the ECM is... Smarty Touch EFI Live Both of these tuners have full tables of timing, fuel, boost, etc... Example.

No. Quadzilla is not a solution being its just a rail pressure box. On common rails you need to flash the ECM with all the core values. Even Jacob Kidd suggested other solutions for Common Rails. Correct. Smarty after working with them this is not a solution either knowing how the whole thing works. I really don't want to deal with Smarty for a tuner. I know what they have for support and not what I want to deal with either. I know way too many secrets of that group. Not one I would like to visit again.

Now I've gotta ask about tuners for the 3rd Gen. I've worked with Smarty for nearly 3 years. I've played with self contained EFI Live tuners (not the full package). Then another friend mention ed another tuner like HP? He was sure of the name at the time but I figured I'd ask.

I don't think the studs was my problem. Between high timing on the Quad and possibly high exhaust back pressure done the damage for me. I'm already got the head shipped off and need to order a new head gasket from DAP. When I fire back up I will disconnect the wire tap till I can source out a bigger turbo and a new exhaust brake as well. Being my current exhaust brake limits my turbo choices. Do a in pipe PacBrake will open up options for a bigger exhaust housing and bigger turbine and compressor wheels. Trust me, I have learned from mistakes.

Well my first relaxed trip to Caldwell ID. I know the odometer is off and speedometer is off by about -3 to what is actual speed. Now that being said I know its 125 miles from home to Ontario. Now I filled in Riggins ID that's adds on another 15 miles. From Riggins to Ontario showed 123 miles. The odometer is slow too. All from the 285 tires. All that said I've hit 21.0 MPG which would actually be higher if the odometer wasn't slow. The other thing I'm pretty sure this truck is 3.73 gears which with the 285s I'm running the RPMs are roughly the same as my 2002 with 3.55 gears and 245s tires. This combo seems to be great for towing weight.

Might be change in brakes. 1989 to 2001.5 is all drum brakes. After 2001.5 and up is disc brakes.

Vehicle Nickname: Thor - 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 Date Added To The Garage: 2021-07-09 Garage Link: Thor - 2006 Dodge Ram 3500

Leave the joke out this... Yeah that is funny to read... what was I thinking... Seriously the amount of vacuum you need to pull the filter minder is very very little.

Same here. Never heard of them. I put my money on the 425 ARP studs. Even though I blew my head gasket a second time.

Should of already done the W-T ground wire mod and PCM protection fuse.

@IBMobilejust being a ... I always love that blink fluid joke... Even sold on Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/Blinker-Fluid-HAND-VERSION-Hilarious-Gift-Stocking-Stuffer-Car/dp/B06ZXSKDZG

Hey gang... Just a general tech tip. If your coolant has been in your truck for 3 years or about 75k miles you should consider doing a coolant flush and new thermostat. Then you might check your A/C pressures and top off the freon. Double check all your fluids axles, transmission and transfer case (if applicable). Brake fluid is another that needs to be changed every 30k miles as so does power steering fluid.

Crap! Sorry for that I already had the Timbos APPS show up a while back but forgot to update the stock number. Again sorry gang...

Put the filter minder to your lips and lightly suck on the filter minder nipple it takes very little vacuum. It actually measured in inches of water column. Just like a drink straw how much vacuum to pull few inches of water up a straw.

@W-T welcome back stranger...

Not to hijack... Just had a customer complain about her power steering leaking on her 96 Chevy truck. It was filled with ATF. Really common mistake.

When I last pulled my transfer case off my 2002 Dodge I resealed it with Grey RTV silicone and not seen a leak at all.

Normal here at home I can tow about anything and stay around 180*F towing but about 140 to 150*F empty truck. This includes climbing 7% grades for 7 miles. Now as for Arizona I make a simple heat shield out of a piece of sheet metal and two 4 inch exhaust clamps. Just tucked it between the NV4500 and the 4 inch exhuast. In Arizona with 110 to 120*F daytime temps and climbing a 7% grade it was just getting up to 200*F my alarm on my ISSPro is set for 225*F. After adding the heat shield it dropped roughly 30 to 40*F off the trans temp. I was able to stay in 5th gear and leave the cruise set for 65 MPH and no issues. Remember with me running 245's tires and my final ratio is 3.69:1 it way cooler than running 235's or 265's tires. This made a huge impact on trans temps as well.

Basically in a nutshell. Now notice the oil/silicone inside does the clutch action. If the fluid is lost the the fan clutch fails. This why after sitting and cooled the silicone/oil will settle to the bottom. So when fired up there will be a locked fan clutch for a short time in the morning then as the silicone/oil moves to the hub again it will unlock. This is totally NORMAL. It when you reach 210*F and the fan is not locking up then there is a issue.

I got a customer that called me asking about his clutch in his 94 Toyota. I went over to his place and hopped in the cab and could feel the pedal was super soft and like its not even pumping. I pumped the pedal up and could make a good shift. I knew at this point the hydraulics on the clutch were fried. The brake fluid was black in color. (day ends) Next day I'm down in town getting supplies for another job. Stopped at the local Chevron. This customer happen to be there. He was talking to guys at Chevron about changing the clutch hydros. My friend there was like I've never seen a Toyota clutch need to be replace. I was say you should have to replace the hydro's on it just re-bleed the system. So to make the customer feel better about all this I did. Needless to say it DID NOT WORK. The fluid that came out of the slave was like thin axle grease and very black. Nope did this 3 times no dice will not allow a shift into any gear. I told my customer just order and get the hydro's. Calls me up at about 2pm in the afternoon saying it won't fit. I pack up and haul back to town after change a few bits and pieces I got the master and slave installed. After bleeding it felt much much better. You can feel the clutch now and goes into gear really well for all forward gears. Now reverse there is a bit of shift movement so it ticks a bit before getting in. Customer was happy. Next time I'll let my ASE certified friend know... When the OEM clutch hydros have 336k miles, the fluid is black... Pretty sure the hydros are toast!

One of the few reasons I've never liked the CAD axle design. Any vacuum issues can and will leave to stuck without 4WD. Trust me I've been left stuck in deep snow and fighting to figure why the axle is not locking. They are right start at the cowl and check if there is good vacuum then work your way down to the 4 port switch and check again for good vacuum. Then move to the red vacuum lead and check again at the CAD axle. I've seen weird cases where the diaphragm is torn or small pin holes which makes it weak to pull in. I've seen bent vacuum motors that bind the shaft too. Make sure everything moves freely. Test also with the CAD removed from the axles to see if the fork is moving easy.

If you look there is only a fuse in between the fuel relay and the VP44. Which is the same fuse that powers the ECM, PCM and VP44 all share the same power source. (Red/white) Then the (brown/white) is the trigger to the relay. So my suggesting is change the #3 fuse in the PDC and then change the relay.

For sure not the turbo. I would look at the transmission and torque converter.