Mopar1973Man

Like all my lighting on the front of my truck cost me right at $1,000 for both the Morimoto D2S and the PIAA LED Driving lights. All my lighting is approved for on highway use. Get what you pay for I paid for quality of light.

Upload to Youtube... I kind of like the old A/C compressor clutch idea for control of the belt to the snow blower.

Sorry to say 99.9% of dealers have not been trained or even been educated of this software or how to turn it on. Even with the TSB I still get members calling me back stating it can't be done for X or Y reasons. -=-=- TRUTH -=-=- ANY 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins can have high idle enabled. ALL 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins trucks already have the software in the ECM and all it needed to be done is TURN ON. Most dealers have never used this part of the DRBIII tool and tend to mess up the flash process of turning on the high idle software. Then the customer leaves and hopes and 99.9% of the times was not TURN ON. I've tested with every year from 1998.5 to 2002 using Smarty S-03 tuner and this will turn on the high idle software. So, the next time a dealer can't do it I know it can be down has been done. It just the Dealer Tech has ZERO knowledge of how to do it even with the TSB in his hand... 7. Connect the DRB III to the vehicle without connecting to MDS2 and follow the menu structures it appears below. 8. MAIN MENU - 1998 - 2002 DIAGNOSTICS 9. 1998 - 2002 DIAGNOSTICS - ALL (EXCEPT BELOW) 10. SELECT SYSTEM - 1 ENGINE 11. CONTROLLER TYPE - 1 CUMMINS (ECM/ENGINE) 12. SELECT FUNCTION - 1 MISCELLANEOUS (Misc. is on second page) 13. 3.3 CYLINDER IDLE - Follow the instructions The DRB III will indicate whether the feature is enabled or disabled. 14. Push 1 to Enable, 2 to Disable. 15. You are instructed to cycle the ignition to complete the repair. 16. Press Page Back to Exit. Other option... https://www.dieselautopower.com/smarty-s-03-rental-sr-s03a

Just checking the highway cameras around the state mostly single digit temp from Lewiston ID down to Ontario, OR. Here at home being I'm in a deep valley its a mere +16*F but as soon as I leave I've got to face the bitter cold. Still trying to get to town to restock with food and supplies here. Been delayed now for 3 days try to get out of here. Between poor weather condition, poor highway conditions, closures of grades, vehicle accidents, etc.

This is why I don't rely directly on the Quadzilla display for gauge knowing the limitation of the sensors and ECM. ISSPro EV2 Boost 0 to 60 PSI with my warning light set to 45 PSI. I can reach 47 to 49 PSI but Quadzilla data logs reports I can reach 65 to 69 PSI I know is not true. (2001 MAP sensor with adapter) ISSPro EV2 Fuel pressure gauge 0 to 30 PSI with my warning light programmed for 13 PSI. ISSPro EV2 EGT's gauge 0 to 1,600*F with the warning light set to 1250*F. ISSPro EV2 Trans Temp set the warning light for 225*F. Now I can shut off my phone and just what the needed stuff on my a-pillar and not bother with the limited range of tuner gauges. Even Edge Products has limitations too for boost being the ECM can only reach so far. Stock sensors are not very accurate above 25 PSI or so. I notice this on my truck and it start to climb past 25 PSI the Quadzilla is rising faster than the boost gauge. This is why I don't even bother to display boost pressure on the Quadzilla. I trust these more so than the Quadzilla. Actually designed for much high pressures and accurate as well. Quadzilla gauges are fine for newbie just plugging in a tuner for the first time, True long haul or performance guy would have to consider gauges outside the ECM control to reach high boost pressures that are accurate.

Another morning about the same for me. Yesterday I went out cycled the grid heater twice fire up normally at +12*F no problem. Warmed up in about 5 minutes road travel shedding ice from the windshield. No block heater was plugged in. Part of my trick. Winter fronts are inserted into the grill. This holds more heat for the IAT without all the cold blowing through the intercooler. Stock filter and fuel heater still in the system. Stock fuel heater does a excellent job of heating the fuel and continue to warm the fuel from manifold heat. AirDog pump is not in the damage path of the tires but tucked behind my transfer case. It is not in the blowing wind nor could it be struck with snow and ice. Most of my fuel line are not exposed but hidden inside the frame rail. As soon the lines leave the AirDog the line are routed inside the frame. Fuel Temp and IAT Temp run together being the fuel absorb heat from the coolant passage near the stock filter. 428k miles never used anti-gel nor have I had a time where fuel gelled even once. Operating all the way down to -30*F to -40*F. Old photo but above is true. Here is where people get in trouble... Pump is in the damage path of both the front and rear tires and snow and ice can be slung on the pump. This can get enough moisture inside the pump is freeze and lock it up. Blowing cold air over the filter taking the heat out of the fuel. Promoting gelling issues. More plumbing and pump base exposed to direct blowing wind. Something a FASS 150 cannot do like an AirDog 150. They are more prone to gelling and freezing because of the large size.

No the normally don't. Again the only reason I know is partial blockage of the system making it whine or the pump can't return fully like it suppose too. Being I run up here in fully winter conditions. I'll firing up again today and attempting my trip north. Yesterday we got started too late and the road in bad shape.

It's not so much the sensor but the ECM. It can't see above 40 PSI because of software limitations. Kind of like the limitation of the coolant going to 204*F because that all the ECM can handle is up to 204*F.

I'm going to be dropping to below zero next week and still silent pump and the system no issues. The pump is most likely creating plenty of pressure it just then there is a restriction of the pressure getting to where it needs to go. That noise is created when the pressure has nowhere to go or the flow is restricted. Then you hear the pump whine. This morning... What it's like outside in the yard... My truck is NOT plugged in. Last weekend we took a road trip to Warm Lake, Idaho. This is looking back towards Cascade ID. (Black white photo)

2 cycle oil has a pour point of -40°F which at 128:1 ratio should help with blocking gelling. Fuel supply should be already using PPD in the fuels nation wide just in the south not as strong. Im starting out super cold here. Now I'm heading to Lewiston ID.

I would put a small trickle charge on them over night. Both battery are down in charge.

Not that I want it deleted... I want the information to remain. I just can't server 17 years of data fast enough with a 8 CPUs. Now neck it down to the last year I can sever that faster. This way the last 16 years is stored in a different database table unloading the stress in the server. You have to consider there is up to 2,700 people coming every day and having to hunt through 18 years of data to post the current thread takes time. This drops the time of the software trying to find the information in over nearly 400 MB of information when there is 242,721 item to check to find. Just dropping that older than 1 year off the search has gain the system speed back especially when there is usually 190 to 250 people on at one time and asking the server for the next thread, post, item etc. The only table bigger is the display cache at a bit more than ~300 MB. Just remember there is HUGE database here holding a total of ... 1.1 MILLION entries and over 1.3 Gigabytes worth of data contained in 250 tables. Remember Mopar1973Man.Com has been operating since Summer 2004 and the data is all still here. Just anything older than 1 year is archive for read only now. This also reduces the need to having a table that needs to read and write. The archive is only a READ table now... Just consider... [--] Up for: 4d 3h 40m 42s (20M q [55.777 qps], 510K conn, TX: 181G, RX: 36G) It doing 20 MILLION queries in 4 days, at a rate of 55.777 queries per SECOND... Already sent 181 GB of information in 4 days and received 36 GB. Lot of data flying around... Then consider traffic is not slowing down... Since November when we change to subscription based.

Unknown, but the entire headlights and fog light are controlled by the TIPM. There is zero relays in this system. Then the only fuses are the ones you see. Nothing more. This is not like our old school 2nd gen with a fog lamp relay, fog lamp fuse, etc. This is not there in the 3rd gen up with TIPM. After fighting with a 2006 with a headlight malfunction that you could turn on the headlights with the switch but you pull the multifunction switch back for dimmers the wipers would come on and hi beams. Turn signal only worked to the right but no left. Again this is all based on a CANBus message getting back to the TIPM to turn on and off these functions but not working correctly. My only solution to you is call a module rebuilder like "Module Master" in Moscow ID and see. They will also test before they start to see what is actual wrong or not working correctly.

No you just got to start a new thread it keep from "necromancy" from happening as we Admin's call it. You not bring old information back to life. This way its all new and fresh when you start your thread because information, knowledge could change in a mere year. Yes it could but you have to contact a rebuild that is knowledgeable of doing this reprogram. Yes you may link to it but you will not be able to reply. No, not necessarily. It just a speed trick also not to hold 18 years of data in a single database and force the software to hunt through 18 years of data to find the next post. When you tell the system to archive anything older than 1 year now the last 17 years at still visible but you can't reply. Now the system only has to search through the last year of data to render post for the current topic. The archive method also stops necromancy which is finding any old thread with old info and bring it back to life and trying to update it. Now you make a 100 page thread out of something and now people have to read all the pages to understand. Now if you force that old thread to stop and force the member to start over now fresh and new information can be glean from you new topic, instead rehashing old stuff. For example some wanted to talk about the old Carter stock lift pump I'm sure there is a ton of topics of that it would be bad if someone "necromancy" a few back to life from 2006. Why would we back up time to revisit some old info being there is much better solutions today that Carter stock lift pumps. At the same time I don't want to remove history of where we came from.

LEDs have that issue even the ones in my 1996 dodge do this as well with icing over. Sad to say even my $350 PIAA LED driving lights ice over as well. Now my Morimoto D2S can ice over to only in really bad storms. Typically it can hold a small hole to shine through. The only thing that holds up good in subzero is halogen I';m sorry to say.

1989 to 2002 are strictly "Power Steering Fluid" 2003 to current are are strictly "ATF+4" Why the switch because the old school Sagnaw box was replaced all Ford Hydrobooster and Ford Steering box. You cannot put ATF in a power steering fluid system because the seeals are not design for it nor is the pump design to pump something that thin. Reason for hmm and buzz noise is debris lodged in the power side of either hydro booster or the steering box. With everything is in the neutral position (brake pedal and steering wheel) the pump should just free flow back on the return line. If it humming or grunting like its applying pressure you might have a plugged passage. I've keep my system clean with every 30k miles I dump, flush and refill the system. Never once had a issue in 428k miles and counting. Never used synthetics either, no need. So from 2003 on to current the steering system is fully Ford. Hence the use of ATF+4 for the system. Matter of fact I just had @Blue-Top Steeringrebuild a 2005 Steering box which I get to install this weekend.

Running 245/75 R16 tires, super easy to spin the steering. I've got a quick ratio Blue Top Steering box. Just run NAPA power steering fluid. (Not synthetic). I just went to McCall ID and it was barely +9°F outside. Super tight steering, no Humm of the pump. NOTE: Do not attempt to use a quick ratio box on oversized tires, ratio is not enough for pulling the tires and gear box damage will occur. Oversized tires needs the standard ratio to ease stress on the steering box like running 4.10 axle gears for 35 inch tires and up.

ONLY if the high idle software is enabled. Once enabled it will be rather random hit miss. Be8ng based on IAT to start. Then if you had my switch then you can command what you want.

There is no controls for high idle. It must meet the sensors requirements. The is no steering wheel control like 3rd gens. Hence why the high switch was made to give control over it.

Can you write a bit of code to show the variable for the vanes so you can see if they are actually be set right or is there another bit of code over riding your value. I sometime fight web code the same way and just plop in a more or less "print X" and look at what the software is doing. I've made coding mistakes where the set value was being over written by anothe command.

TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) this is what actually turns on the fog light. Double check the fuses. Beyond that the fog light are turned on by CANBus message not by a voltage switch we all know. Like the multifunction switch is a mere 5 wires on CANBus system. The headlight switch and fog light controls again are all CANBus message. If you have a second truck with TIPM you can swap it fast in a few minutes just need tools to pull the power lead from the stud. No relays in this system just the TIPM...

Good Gawd... If you boys quit playing with Microsoft Windows and jump to Linux its easy as pie. My PDF viewer has a DOWNLOAD button. Any PDF that I can open on the Internet I can download the entire document then edit the document if needed.

I've got an option for about $2000 for a front mounted snow blower for my ATV but this winter has bee a joke. I've not even shoveled snow at home to clean the step but once. The storm that came did less than 1/2 inch last night. NOAA is calling for 4 to 8 inches here and +10 inch above 6000 feet. I know all you seen me pushing snow with my ATV... I've not even had a good chance at doing that this winter at all.

Ah you ran into the archive section. When post are over 1 year old I would archive the threads for reading only. I would rather have threads start over fresh and new information that might be present today than dragging open a thread might not be current info.

Like the story about the $500 2006 Dodge 3500 I bought the title was here in like less than 7 days. You living in Oregon where the snowflakes want what you have without working for it.