Mopar1973Man

That is a nice looking truck. Just keep in mind to keep up with injector changes between 100k and 150k. Just diagnosed a 2015 Ram with 189k and it call errors for all 6 injectors. I've got a second 3rd gen with wait to start light on for 2 years now his truck won't start because it can't build rail pressure.

Most of the salvage yards around me don't even have a diesel truck in them. most are bought before they hit the dirt. $17 for two modules was a damn good deal. The reason to pop it open and look for damage might prevent plugging in the new module to have it burn up in a short time because of a wiring issue, short, or bad solenoid for the lock control. Another option is to find a seat from 2000 to 2002 you should the newer design like I've got then ditch the whole module issue. Might take a bit of work to get seat belt light and stuff right. Like my truck the seat light is directly control by the driver side seat belt latch. That's it.

Might open up the old module that is damaged and see if you spot any burnt parts or circuit board it might give clue on how to protect it from failure next time.

Some needs to keep up on the coolant changes. Freeze plug only go bad if the coolant is change often enough. Once the coolant ages then the soft metals like freeze plug are the first to go. Go job on getting that plug stuff in that hole. But yeah mine gave up on that very corner. Head curl. Sorry on the head gasket. I tend to not think about the freeze plugs being I do keep up on the coolant changes and there is virtually no rust in my system. Just surface rust from being exposed to the air.

The only thing I can think of is the pump is just tired out and possibly pushing debris through the system. I would replace the pump and then blow out all the device backwards. So blowing back through the steering box on the return side to push anything out of the power valve. Then the same with the hydrobooster blow it out on the return side. Hopefully you find the reason for low pressure either a restriction or pump issue. I would change and flush the fluid on that system too. The steering box along could hold up to close to quart. Plus the 3rd gens have that small cooler it holds quite a bit too. I would blow it all out backwards and change the fluid. If you can replace the pump too.

I've gotta ask what size tires? Then do you know if you got a quick ratio box or standard ratio steering box? If your running oversized tire make sure to have only the standard ratio steering box. Quick ratio will have too mush stress and more prone to steering box failures. Quick ratio is not design for larger tires. What color is the ATF in the reservoir? Bright red or darken? Do realize that the steering system is complete designed by Ford. (Truth!) Hence why all truck after 2003 switched out all the Sagnaw steering box, hydrobooster, and power steering fluid to Ford steering boxes, hydroboosters, and ATF for fluid. This way they could hopefully upgrade the steering which, I've not seen anything great on this side either being they fail the same way the Sagnaw boxes did from 2nd gen down. I just got done with a 2005 Dodge with a wiped out steering box and he's running 35 inch tires. Even added a steering box brace for this. Hoping it hold up better. Time will tell... Hence I've got my 2006 in the yard I still got to straighten out the steering in that by ditching the 2 inch leveling kit so the caster returns.

I would bypass even the factory lighting being it low quality any ways. Way too much options out in the LED world that product way more light for a fraction of the power required. When you taking the fuses for tail lights and marker light and changing to a 5A instead of 20A fuse. Yup. My PIAA LED driving light only draw barely 1.5A for two 18w LED light that happen to be brighter than my Morimoto HID's which is barely 3A draw. Just compare the factory headlight have a 15A fuse per side, then my old seal beam fog light required a 20A fuse for just two bulbs to be lit. Between LED and HID lighting there is much better options for lighting. The biggest problem is the reflector of the factory light is typically poor pattern anyways. This on reason I switch to HID's because every good clear lens headlights with LED's with a poorly designed reflector the pattern of light still sucks big time. So people try for bright or better lighting on a poor reflector which is where the blinding people start to happen. Even if every thing is legal for street. Like I said the weakest link is the poor grade of reflectors or optics. I will have to give credit to a old member which I think has pass on @flagmanruss he was always after me about this and now I totally understand... You'll never find any quality lighting till your optics are quality. This why I'm a big fan of the Morimoto HID lighting because there is no reflectors and everything is cast out through a lens (H1 Mini or D2S lens). The pattern is perfect and light being cast is smooth and no hotspots. Even the Morimoto LED version was the same thing. Very clean pattern. Back to fog lamps I went with PIAA LED's again design with a very clean pattern and optics are very precise. There is two styles of lights there is the driving lights which is a narrow pattern but long length of cast. Where the fog lamp is very short length and wider pattern. Again I've tried both the driving light cast more light farther down road at highway speed where the fogs didn't quite cut the distance very well.

How deep are you dipping retard in your timing? Watch the timing value and tell me the lowest you see when you get into the throttle part way. Basically if you retard the timing you are adding more flame front to the turbo. Spools much easier. I'm only +50 behind you with 7 x 0.10 injectors. Turbo isn't as big (60/60/12) vs yours (63/74/12) so you going to need more retarded timing long to get the turbo spooled up. Once spooled to about 5 PSI then you can start flipping back to advanced timing. I would go for 200 HP injector...

Wow. I better stop power washing my engine, underside and the truck body after 18 years. I've gotten the BHAF wet a few times to. No issues. Not like soaked in water but slash from road ways or indirectly spray while washing the engine down.

That would be my call right there asking if Module Master would do it or Auto Computer Specialist out of Florida.

I might have an old filter hanging around I'll look for it.

Try this fuel map and see how it performs... This most daily driver style. More stockish on the streets till you lay down and build above 15 PSI then its off to the races. I'm not sure what your normal cruising boost is like. Then Timing wise start at 13° and go up by +5.5°... 13.0°, 18.5°, 24.0° then 29.5° this should work really good for 6 x 0.013 injectors.

Good looking truck!

Not quite. If you cut the filter media out and laid it out flat the BHAF is MUCH larger over the panel filter being each pleat is wider so when flatten out nad measured the BHAF is much bigger than what your numbers are. You can't just measure the outside and do math you need to cut the media out of an old filter and measure the actual media on a flat plane not all folded up in pleats.

Basically the optimal plan is to get both the CANBus and the Wiretap set for the same starting point and rise together to the end of the +30 PSI map. Anyone setting it for 5 PSI is wasting fuel for the most part because of the adding wire tap so low. Wire tap should not be in your daily driving zone. Like me for where I live I need at least 0 to 15 PSI for daily driving zone so everything above 15 PSI the CANBus fuel and wiretap ramp up together is is way more power than starting the wire tap at 5 PSI and ramping up over a wider bandwidth. 0 PSI to 5 PSI is 80 to 100% (Defuel smoke control - Cut the fuel to 80% of stock) 6 PSI to 15 PSI is 100% fuel (Stock - Daily driver zone - just running on my 7 x 0.010 and timing. No extra fuel!) 16 PSI and up is ramping to 150%. (Power Mode - This where both CANBus and Wiretap ramp together) Now take you wire tap start it at 15 PSI and set it for 1200us worth of pulse. It will pull like a raped ape. Now using your power levels. 0 - Stock (Quadzilla Disabled) 1 - Valet Mode 2 - Stock Fuel Only (Ramp only to 100% and stops) 3 CANBus Fuel (Uses full Canbus fuel map) 4 and up - Using your wiretap (Percentage wise) Most of my daily driving I'm either 2 or 3 for power level. If I need serious power I grab level 7. Better hang on tight because it does pull hard. Hard enough to dump objects off the dash in the front seat, floor and rare enough even the back seat. I'm also finding I can lure in more Fords and Chevy's with Level 2. Then switch to level 7 when I reach the next light and stomp em! Funny, level 2 is got a bit of power of the injectors but not quite enough to pull ahead (hooked!) now turn up the power and go the next round for the win and usually other driver loses. Make sure the 1,500 RPM Max Timing is 13° this ensures good retard for good spooling and fast spooling. At least my current tune is built with good bottom end pull away but true power isn't till 15 PSI and now when the tap does kick in ZERO change of the smoke of the tailpipe but the tires have been know to start smoke because of lack of traction.

Why? In all the years of running a BHAF I've never got the filter minder to move. The only way it will suck in the media is if you plug the media with enough dust and or water to seal the media and cause it to pull into the turbo. My rule of thumb is if the media inside is starting to discolor then its time to replace. About every 150k miles or so. 430k miles and rolling.

It's based off of watch engine load as you travel and engine oil temperature. High engine load means the the timing is not efficient or excessive drag. If you oil temp starts to creep up that mean there is more flame front on the cylinder walls heating the coolant and oil. Typically to advanced. Now you can advance timing by having washout injectors that are popped too low <300 bar. The more you get close to the actually desired timing the engine load will drop and the engine oil temp will drop. More energy is produced into work and less into coolant or oil heat. Any kind of excessive heat that is created is wasted energy that was not turning the tires.

Best to jack up the axle in the front so the tires are off the ground. Now if the reservoir is full the go from lock to lock WITHOUT the engine running. The movement of the piston in the steering box will pump the fluid back out the return like to the reservoir. You'll be able to look in and see the foam pump out just with the steering going lock to lock.

Vulcan no longer produces the Jeep Liberty modules or deal with that older module style. Here is the DAP link... https://www.dieselautopower.com/vpmax-mfm2-modified-fuel-module-98-04-with-draw-tube-installed?Category_Code=

If the fluid is foamy after running your too low and do have air trapped in the system. You could start it up and purge it out then you have to shut down till the foam goes away typically about 30 minutes or so. If you continue to drive the truck it will eventually go away but the steering and brake performance will be reduced being air does compress so the system is degraded till the air is purge out of the fluid.

Not to ... Like myself I've just lost my fuel gauge as well. Mine I found my issue was the pin on the module had rotted away. I'm got a fuel sender basket coming from DAP. I gotta say thanks to both @JAG1 and @IBMobile for trying to help. I gave JAG1 a call and he passed it down the pipe to IBMobile. Funny I didn't know that RockAuto had the stock sender in stock. Which is part number 04897668AF (Mopar). After looking at it and what I order from DAP. Sad to say DAP was over 30 dollar saving vs. RockAuto. The DAP sender is a the modified with the draw straw as well. I can try the straw in the basket and the straw in the tank see which one is cooler and which one does better. Just cap the other straw.

Sorry I've got no idea on the Allen screw but I can most likely assure you that the Allen screw is metric. As for the ECM WTS light is dead clue being it did not come on the ECM is not booting up.

Yes the actual fractional value is use. The display when you look after editing will be round up. But when you go back to edit its still storing the fractional amount so that is what it does use for the values.

Finally I've known of this upgrade for quite some time being I've done the beta test on it and still using mine. The iQuad head has both WiFi and Bluetooth both. Mine has been working way better than previous version.

You can it not the hot rod pump fuel matters which it really doesn't it the fact that Hot Rod pump are advanced mechanically in timing. It the fact you 'll always have to calculate in that offset just like I've got to calculate the offset of timing because of the 320 bar injectors. This makes my timing late so I got to add more timing than normal. You will have to retard more than normal. Again its not the fuel part being it only an extra 21 HP you gaining.