Mopar1973Man

I know the cost is much higher but sometimes it best to just replace the entire control arms as a set with new bushing already installed in the arms. Yeah I know you still gotta get the old bolts out but but trying to press new joints in and old ones out. Sometimes the peace of mind is being able ot pay for arm with bushings already. I'm in your shoes this time going to do Thor's driver side top control arm and the bushing at the cab. Time to break out my new battery powered impact guns.

First trip to there shop was back at 350k miles roughly. I blew the back of the head gasket for the coolant jacket. It cost me $2,100 for 18 of the 24 valve guide, valve seat ground to spec again. This trip 431k miles, I blew the head gasket on the front driver corner leaking oil. I was only $425 to straight out the head that 0.006 of warp. New set of valve seals. Ron and Justin are wonderful people to deal with and prompt on getting the job done. Both trips it was a mere 3 days as quoted. I would use Northwest Machine for my future rebuild of the engine as well.

Hence why my set up is on the fender for this exact reason... Now I can unscrew the fuel pressure sender add a tee and hook up my test gauge and my sender back and then go for ride and test the a-pillar gauge in real time without the fuss or mess. I've even got all the fitting for any system I've got to tie into... As for my protection its... Tap point in-between the VP44 and the stock fuel filter. Needle valve for emergency shut down of fuel in this plumbing then a snubber. I used PTC (push to connect) fittings. Then 5 feet of 1/8 inch air brake line the over to my relocation bracket and sensor is last. After the needle valve you'll see a brass fitting that is the snubber (sinstered metal).

I chose Northwest Motor Machine Northwest Motor Machine 4218 Dearborn St, Caldwell, ID 83605 (208) 453-1292 https://northwestmotormachine.com/ These guys work mostly with Cummins engines. Matter of fact they are looking for core engines they are short on Common Rail cores right now.

look close I did the replacement of the flexplate on this 97 Ford F250 7.3L diesel. Pulled driveline, transfer case, and transmission in the gravel in North Riggins. My shop has my 2002 in it currently. I would of been in the dirt at my place too. So I did it on site at the owners place.

$85 an hour and all travel is paid for. No time limits and they will handle all parts and supplies I need. If I need any special tools they will handle it for me. All I've got to do is ask. I've seen some of the toys. The owner has 8 personal jets and I missed the fly over I left to early. Dune Buggy, wave runners, snowmobiles, tractor, etc plenty to work on. I've been hired on as a "FULL TIME" mechanic for the property. What was the selling edge was this website. The fact I've been dealing with 2,500 people day and 60,000 a month. I was showing "Neal" the property manager stats from the website and my client base. At that point pretty much sold myself being how many people in the area let alone the world could have a website showing all my exploits. Hmmm? I'll be paid $85 an hour for all work. Then on top of that I will be paid for my travel back and forth to work. Neal said to toss an extra hour to my time sheet for travel. Heck its only a $100 to fill Thor once a week. I've got to say thank you to Andrew and his wife for talking to Neal and getting me a chance at this awesome job. So today I've got wheel joints to do on Thor, Control arm bushing to replace, and valve cover o-ring I managed to screw up when I did the valve lash adjustment. Then out on the yard I've got my 8 foot long tool boxes for both side of the bed on Thor. I've got 2 weeks to clean up the truck, clear my work load and be ready to work at McCall. As for Neal he's a rough looking individual. Kind of loud way he talks but you can tell he's got a very caring heart. Like I told him I'm not the type to try to rush through for time schedules I prefer to take my time and do the job right. This comment I uttered and Neal agreed on. Like Neal told me do my job safely and take my time and do it right. Like one toy I was looking at was a full track snow toy (not sure of the name yet). 2 cycle gas engine been standing for many years and now the owner wants it up and running. It got exhaust leaks and not running right with low compression (possibly sticky rings). I wish I would of got photos of the property it inside McCall city limits. 104 acres, with private air strip. My buddy Andrew and his family take care of the 104 acres of land with landscaping. Andrews son AJ was try to help out with the mechanical stuff but he's a young pup yet. This goes beyond doing simple oil changes and greasing stuff.

I've got awesome news. I've been doing some thinking. I've got a buddy that works for a single billionaire doing all the landscaping for his 104 acre property. Well after a bit of talking to my buddy about a week later I ended up with a job interview with the property manager. Needless to say I aced the interview. I've been given 2 weeks to get my truck in order and finish my other jobs. I've already bought 2 toolboxes for Thor. My job for the owner will to be to maintain all vehicles and equipment for the owner. This includes ATVs, tractors, lawn mowers, any vehicles left on the property. The property manager wants me fully mobile and he'll pay for fuel and travel.

Four bolts under the center seat. I think 10mm IIRC.

Let the truck cool down completely over night. Now take a coolant pressure tester and pump the system up to 16 PSI and let it sit come back in 30 minutes and look for the coolant either on the floor or in the cab.

Short is in the transmission. Time to pull the pan.

All of my gauges share the same ground. In both the 2002 and 2006 trucks.

Check control arm bushings and track bar. Track bar should move at all when steering back and forth. Control arms should wiggle or move. Like my 06 has the driver side control arm with a bad bushing. It pops or clunk when turning feel otherwise the floor.

Slushbox... yuk... 4 pedals is much better.

Yeah the biggest thing is making sure the cable are not binding and you have enough pull to hold it tight. Like my truck (2002) I'm at the end of my slack adjustment to make it hold this tells me the cables are stretched. Now on the (2006) the driver side cable bound up and crushed the outer jacket pulling the brake. No good and no holding power.

@W-T all FSMs are in the download area. You are correct if the fuse is blowing instantly there is wire shorted to ground. @Turbo Terry check the 99 wire map.

Check locally for a shop that rebuilds leaf springs. There is a solution either have shop rework the springs or just replace the springs. Like I know in Boise there is a shop that will do this.

Nice!!!

You might try buying hone brush and clean the hole out at bit removing the grit and rust and it might fit better. Like @Dieselfuture suggest double check the size and application.

Yup. Keyed 12V to distributor. The module hooks to the inside plug. Then IIRC there is BATT terminal for keyed power. Then there is tach terminal if you want to hook a tachometer.

Make sure you have the same year and options there was changes like crank and cam sensors or just cam sensor. The MAP sensor plugs are different.

Make sure the two rear cables move together. What I do is loosen the slack adjuster on the side of the frame. Then set both rear shoe adjustment where it barely drags. Then set the slack again so I pulls enough to hold evenly.

Sorry that happened to anyone... Glad your doing better. As for the brake it's time to rebuilding the parking brake. I know I need to consider replacing the middle cable soon getting stretched out.

Well first thing I would do is peek at the wiring diagrams in the article section. Now I would ohm test between end to end. If a wire is shorted to ground it will show zero ohm between the body and a open wire. Might have to pull the pan and test the internal wiring inside the transmission.

Got home last night and got a phone call. It was on of the local member in Council ID. (Josh) @01WorkBody. He's got a a 2000 Dodge Cummins 2500 with utility bed. He had several questions about performance. Eventually I did a road test. He's got 35 inch tires on 4.10 gears. Engine wise with +50 HP injectors with a larger turbo and no tuner. We talked about adding the Quadzilla to help control smoke and EGTs. Transmission wise He's got a stock 47RE which he wants to change to a G56 trans. Even for the 2 hour standing outside in the parking lot of Subway we had a good time. Josh has no problem turning wrench being the utility box has everything to tear down a full truck. I parted ways leaving him a list of things to do.

As long as there is no OBDII error codes and low smoke it will pass. Cam can't be detected by any smog shop.