Mopar1973Man

Your is done. Worn out... Should not be signs of rust and moisture which you have this master is cooked and no longer good. While you at is order a new clutch safety switch from RockAuto. Once your up around 400k miles that switch will die.

What sized tires are you running and what is your axle ratio? This is what makes or breaks a good setup. You need optimally after tires and wheels 3.55 to 3.73 final ratio to the ground. I've got 3.55 gears but with the 245/75 R16 tires my final ratio is 3.69:1 to the ground. Then I'm not running a monster huge turbo but a Hybrid HX35/40 which is (60/60/12). Speed wise I'm at perfect 2,000 RPM at 66 MPH and then at 2,500 RPM I'm doing 82 MPH this is a good proper ratio. Let's say with NV4500 transmission I'm in 4th gear (1:1 direct) by 25 to 30 MPH. Most go up to 35 inch tires on 3.55 gear and now the final ratio is more like 3.27 to the ground and the truck struggles to make power. 37 inch tires on 3.55 is a perfect 3.00 to the ground. Anything with 35 to 37 inch tires REQUIRE 4.10 axle gears. No way around this fact. For every ONE pound of rotational mass you add to the tires, wheels, driveline is like adding another 8 pounds on the frame. Bigger tires will always consume more fuel to get spinning or excessive heat the brakes because of stored energy and stopping. Hence why my brakes last over 200k miles per set. Not to mention going down in tires size lighten them even more. Reduction of rotational mass. http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html So now you understand why I went down to 30 inch tire on 3.55 gear to enhance the torque output which it did, it reduced roughly 100*F off EGT's, it reduced my transmission temps by another 20 to 40 degrees, then improved towing MPG's 14 MPG towing my 31 foot travel trailer (Jayco).

What is the engine load in park or neutral? What is your idle speed in park? What pop pressure were the injectors set to?

Yup. Protects the ECM.

Some version do have a relay and fuse. Then like the DDRP typically don't the plug directly into the ECM which when it does lock the motor up it burns up the ECM circuit. Typically the relay is mounted on the cowl (at least I do this)

Yeah common for Raptors. The bearing and seal fail and pumps diesel into the motor then locks up and blows the fuse. Only solution is replacement... My 3rd Gen AirDog 150 died the same way. When you call for a new pump ask for the 4th gen pump the bearings and seal is upgraded.

Are you getting fuel from a farm tank or similar? Really common out here the farm tank gather water and all kind of issues can come with it. Check with your local fuel station to see if they run water blocking filters on their pumps. I know my local Chevron does have water blocking filters. Check for air leaks as well. I just got done with @Jthorinjectors went down to the dump to ditch the trash in the bed. We had less than 1/4 tank and got up on the top of the pad short climb and it was lopey. Shut it down and looked around nothing leaking out or anything. Dump the trash went to start and it lost prime (long hard start). Ran home grab my wallet and dropped $40 in the front tank problem is gone. Idle fine every stop. So he's got a sucking air leak either on top with a rotten rubber hose or bad pickup in the tank.

Just for info... From the part number book.

With all this being said, how were people achieving 45psi on a 64mm with stock or 90 horse injectors?? I'm running 7 x 0.010 +150 HP DAP injectors these are popped to 320 bar not 305 bar. HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) this so close ot the same as HE351 except my is a 12cm2 housing not a 9cm2... Then my latest tune which is using all the timing available. 3,000 RPM is set at 29.5 degrees. Turbo is capable of about 45 to 49 (absolute MAX). I know this is not optimal for me but... Boost leaks are not SUPER CRITICAL like 99% of the people make it out to be. You can have an audible boost leak and still tow and keep driving without EGT's blowing through the roof. Lose a bolt out of the manifold yup you can hear it but EGT's rise a bit towing still doing highway speed climbing a 6% grade. Then the other test actually making a huge boost leak and standing on the throttle heading up the highway and listen to it blow air everywhere but still able to make 40 PSI. Tuning can impact boost quite a bit. Like being retard will help build boost more. This why on the Quadzilla you need a good health drop of retard in the 1500 band. Then from there on out use the load-based and Low PSI timing reduct. These two will build your boost across the tune when you go from cruise to heavy throttle. Once the high load is over it will flip back to the load base to till the cruise limit can be reached and then advance to cruise state. The fuel map is just a fuel map. There is a few tricks there too. Find your common cruise realm For me it's 6% to 16% grades around me. My cruise state is wide so I defuel for smoke from 0 to 5 PSI. Now from 5 PSI to 15 PSI is all 100% stock. Nothing more. This is my cruise state. Well, all started out just ramping straight up from defuel to 150% without a cruise state. Now here is my trick for fuel and getting the wiretap and CANBus to run together. After your cruise state and CANBus start climbing. So I've got my Pump Low Boost Scale PSI set for 15 PSI and the CANBus starts it climb at 15 PSI now both the fuel map are stacked and now you have SERIOUS power. This is something most don't do they set the wiretap down at 5 PSI to get the tires to smoke. Don't fool yourself with this design... I told my girlfriend @Wet Vetteshe couldn't drive the truck with this much power... She told me to pull over... Chinese Fire Drill... She hopped in and belted up and she said HANG ON! She launched in 2nd boost built at 15 PSI and tires started to smoke as the wiretap hit. Then grabs third and she lights the tires again. Then shift to 4th and gets a small bark. Then grabs 5th and continues up past 85 MPH. She wasn't joking around either!

Like my run yesterday I used a screwdriver to arc the solenoid stud and the positive stud to test the starter. If the starter is good then... Starter Relay in the PDC swap with a another like fuel heater. Starter Solenoid fuse (test with a ohm meter I've seen these crack and fail.. looks fine but no connection.)

Just has done a rescue call yesterday for a Jeep. Key on the dash lights up and headlights are bright. Hit the key and it black no click. Changed the battery it started right up. William has AAA and the AAA told him the battery is good starter was bad. No where correct. The battery has a cracked bus bar and is opening up under load. Change the battery it started right up.

Yeah just to prove the boost leak I unhooked the waste gate hose left it open then pulled one manifold bolt I only lost 5 psi total from 45 as a top. Noise very audible but no real change in EGTs. I've had a bolt blow out one before towing but no big issue. Here the air blowing out and still drove home.

Yeah under that cover should be a weighted latch make sure the weight moves freely and not sticking.

Just another example I rode along with my buddy Sean Davis to Lewiston so he could have stitches pull from surgery on his shoulder. We went in his Chevy truck and he's running big over sized tires. Front axle was aligned. Front tires are cupping bad and shaking the steering wheel. The tire shop thinks the front shocks are wiped out so we had the rotated and move the problem to the rear and still bad. Like I told Sean should had them re-balance the tires. So at some point today I'll be installing shock on the front of his truck.

Fuel sender for DAP... They do carry the full senders in stock... Thanks @dieselautopower

Low rail pressure is typically a rail leak. I've seen crossover tubes come loose and leak into the return rail. I've seen totally wore out injectors drop rail so bad if it did start it wouldn't idle and stall again. Rare for CP3 to fail typically do rather well for long time as long as the lift pump keeps up. I've got to ask how many miles on the injectors? If it over 150k miles you due for fresh injectors very very soon. Liker my 2006 Dodge 3500 we ran it back and forth for a day and filled the crank case up with extra 3 quarts of diesel fuel. I've got 189k on that truck and all 6 injectors got to be replaced. I've got 2 more Common rail trucks to do injectors on soon. One currently will not start at all. The other one is starting and running but all injector have codes.

Every one on the property here all rather drive MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS. Automatics are for sissies and snowflakes. Sad but true we have a few automatics here. 1996 Dodge Ram with a modified 46RE more like 47RE and shift kit. Then @Wet Vetteshe has a Hyundai Automatic but does allow for manual shifting of all 6 gears. Where I like to play more.

You can open it up without a alignment tool. Ha! I have skills in this. I was just teaching @Jthor on his 7.3L Ford how to align a clutch without a tool complete by hand. Basically when you taking it apart look at the position of the friction disc vs. the pressure plate. Most are cut equal to the pressure plate.. What I do is using my finger measure all four opens and push the friction disc to be flush to the edge. This done while there is a little of plate pressure to keep position of the friction disc.Once you find the center go for it. I've used that method since 1986... Back then you didn't get a nice plastic tool even back then it was a wooden dowel that didn't even have the splines. Yeah if you have the tool for alignment use it but one note double check some of them droop a bit and you'll notice the friction disc slightly sticking out of the bottom do the same trick and I can about promise a good easy stab. Like yesterday I stabbed a Ford 5 speed back together and slid in easy as pie. BAM! No two post lift, no special transmission jack. Floor jack and a transmission. It's all in the way I ratchet strap the transmission to the jack. Won't fall or move while strapped to the jack. I know this is Ford 7.3L but @Jthor had a dual mass flywheel. It spit out a spring and drug it around in between the block and flywheel. I order a NAPA flywheel and clutch kit about $400 for it. Upgraded to 13 inch flywheel. Ditched the dual mass. Now the clutch is butter smooth and upgraded. My biggest battle was changing the rear main seal on the crank. I will admit Ford did good but that dang speedy sleeve is a royal PITA to get of the crank stub. Doable but not fun.

No such option that I ever heard of...

The 1500 RPM band needs to be on the retarded side for launch purpose. The amount of retard is going to to force more flame through to the turbo helping spool up. Hence why I start at 13 degrees and work up +5.5 degree on my tune. You spraying more fuel than I am you should be in this realm for sure. 13.0, 18.5, 24.0, 29.5, Max 30

Just trying to find away for you to jump forward to the newer style seat belts then you dont need the module for the seat belt to make the reels lock. The driver buckle is just 2 wire. I've done it in the past just jumper wire between the two pins and the seat belt light will not come on.

Just got done with @Jthor Ford 7.3L with a dual mass flywheel he managed to break all the spring in the flywheel. It rattled bad. After pulling the transmission every was clearly visible what need to be done. Now I know this is Ford but still diesel. Like on his the clutch was good but the throw out bearing was worn, friction disc and pressure plate are good. The dual mass flywheel was done. Ended up upgrading to a 13 inch flywheel and clutch. Like on my last clutch the pilot bearing fell out on to the input shaft then proceeded to eat the input shaft bearing and the tip of the mainshaft. I learned if there is any weird noises in the transmission just pull and look it only takes me 2 hours to pull a NV450, NV5600, or G56 transmission. I don't have a transmission jack nor a two post lift. The result of this last transmission and the bad pilot bearing helped 5th gear to rip teeth out at 80 MPH. Even my stock OEM clutch started to shift funny and make weird noises. The friction plate came apart.

My choice on tires still is the Hankook ATm's for the 2002 Dodge 2500 running (245/75 R16) These I typically get 60k to 70k a set. My 2006 is leveled on 18's with (285/70 R18 - 33.7 inches) and all this will go away here in the near future. Getting back to stock height and tire sizes again. This truck is not happy with the size creates plenty of lugging and high EGT's even empty being the truck is a bit over 9,200 pounds empty with a heavy steel flatbed. As for the small light weight truck 1996 Dodge 1500 its running Cooper Discovery tires. (215/75 R16)

There is a swing weight so if the truck is in a hard braking motion it will lock the center console from moving. You'll need to remove both driver seat and the passenger side as well remove the covers on the center console and then take some PB blaster or silicone spray and lube that hinge up and it should let go. I've had a similar problem with the 2006 rear seat folding. The lock was sticky from spilled food. Plenty of lube and working it back and forth now its fine.

Just checking Kelly Blue Book its roughly...