Mopar1973Man

Got the shaft out. Had to pry it out just with a bigger bar. As for the wheel joint. I cut the trunnion out, then using a socket and hammer drive the bearings caps inward.

Steering shaft you should check to see if the shaft moves like bad shaft bearing. I see a lot of people that grab the steering wheel to pull themselves up into the driver seat. This will wear out the lower bearing on the shaft. I remember there is a company (don't remember the name) that make a new sleeve for the steer shaft.

No joke very nice looking truck you have...

I use NAPA track bars with little issues. I get between 80k to 120k miles out of track bar. Typically about 5 to 10 minutes. Basic tools. Either end I've seen the rubber bushing fail and then typically the ball stud end will move up and down when you turn the steering wheel back and forth.

I would go read up on the P1698 code and do some diagnostics on the CCD Bus. White smoke is a timing issue. Should be a P0216 code coming soon. Speed is from the ABS module. The Check Gage light might be from loss of the CCD bus from the ECM as well since the cluster computer didn't get any info it drops out of range on the gauges and tripping the light. Remember the PCM creates the CCD bus messages and the cluster is what provides the bias voltage for the CCD bus. Bus Failure The CCD data bus can be monitored using the DRBIII scan tool. However, it is possible for the data bus to pass all tests since the voltage parameters will be in “range“ and false signals are being sent. There are essentially 12 “hard failures“ that can occur with the CCD data bus: Bus Shorted to Battery Bus Shorted to 5 Volts Bus Shorted to Ground Bus (+) Shorted to Bus (–) Bus (–) and Bus (+) Open Bus (+) Open Bus (–) Open No Bus Bias Bus Bias Level Too High Bus Bias Level Too Low No Bus Termination Not Receiving Bus Messages Correctly Refer to the appropriate diagnostic procedures for details on how to diagnose these faults using a DRBIII scan tool.

Do a full injectors. DO NOT do just nozzles. There is no way for you to adjust the injectors properly without a test stand. Like myself I got a set of +50 HP injectors from DAP and just installed them. If you change nozzles only there is no way to be sure the injectors are setup properly.

The only thing about LEDs is it depends on the headlight reflector for pattern, Cheap headlights will produce poor pattern of light. Where HIDs depend on the lens and typically its a very smooth pattern of light compared to any LED bulb.

Not vacuum leak at least past the check valve double check the line between the pump and check valve.

I've got a gent just down the road from me wants $25,000 for his 2nd gen. Between the brand new flatbed, and other new items I can see why.

Worth it in the long haul. There is even an optional relay you can program for controlling other functions like trans temp gauge you can program a fan to turn on at say 180*F and warning light at 200*F. With +150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) and Quadzilla I'm at 500 HP roughly now. Final ratio will make or break this for EGT's. Like most here know I dropped the 31" tires (235's or 265's) for 245's which are 30 " tires on 3.55 gears and final ratio is now 3.69:1 which is cool running ratio and EGT's are low. Smarty regardless even with UDC is not going to net you much more than +60 HP. Then the pure cost of the of the Smarty is going to be much higher than the Quadzilla with less features. (No wire tap, no turbo cooldown, etc.) Quadzilla can be ran headless and more secure because there is not a tuner display hanging in the cab somewhere.

Might talk with @Dynamic on the transmission. He's a super good transmission build being I've got one of his in my 1996 Dodge 1500. He does mods that Firepunk will not do like extra cooling jets for the clutch packs. Yup he drills two holes on the return oil line inside the case that spray cooled oil on the clutch keeping them cool. Just can't beat Jon for a transmission build. On the FASS consider you location of the pump and the filters. FASS has serious issues for location and the filter being damaged by road debris or clearance between filter to ground being I've seen a few up here go over a "Goat Hump" and tear the filters off the filter base or flip up a rock or wood and smack the filter causing filter damage. This is one thing I do love about AirDog its small enough to tuck right behind the transfer case and the skid plate guards the filters. If you like the idea of having programmable gauges I would towards the ISSPro EV2 series that you can custom set the warning light for any value you wish. Like I've got EGT's set for 1,200*F and the trans temp set for 220*F, Fuel pressure set for 13 PSI. Less gauge watching, just the red LED pops at on you can spot which gauge without even moving an eye just by position of the light. Mine is Boost (top), Fuel pressure (mid), and EGT's (bottom) of the a-pillar. Trans temp in on the column. Quadzilla is the best choice for a 2nd Gen 24V Cummins. Nothing to say here. Turbo is going to be based on the size of injectors and other supporting mods. 4" exhaust is more than enough to cover what your doing.

Something I should look at on Thor (2006 Dodge). Being its got a leveling kit in the front end and no other supporting mods like adjustable track bar or lower control arms that are adjustable. Handling is OK but kind of darty and already experience death wobble once! As you lift these trucks the axle moves down and the caster becomes more negative. Then the thrust angle is typically altered because of the track bar is now to short. 2 inch leveling kit.

Heck, even north in Idaho we already seen 105*F here and night temps in the low 60's. Us out here just go up in elevation for camping so you won't need A/C or even power. I was just talking to a friend about camping and he said after May it all above 5,000 feet or better so you can get away from the heat and not need A/C. My last camping trip to Pittsburg Landing was hot and just listening to a campground full of generators running really not all that cool. I would just shut down for the day and go rest in the RV or shade of tree and talk with friends.

Shouldn't take too much being the transfer case is easy to remove. Two driveshafts and 6 nuts around the transfer case.

Nope. Thor (2006 Dodge) I typically am about 2 to 5 under speed limit. (Speedometer is off) Not to mention the "The Last Job I'll Ever Need" I need to drive super slow in that neighborhood and make ZERO noise. The well to do neighborhoods are very touchy about loud diesel trucks. As for my 2002 it just sitting here parked most days. Try again... As for rust control the best thing I do is keep the vehicle washed down keeping the mud and salt washed off frequently. The longer mud is in contact with body metal the quicker the body starts to rust.

Sad but true you need to buy a power steering pump. There is no option that I know of to just purchase just the o-ring. Compression test will tell the full story. I don't trust blow by test being its possible to have one cracked piston and still pass the blow by test. Being that @jlweldingwas the one that proved that when he was fighting a miss fire problem years ago right on this forum.

Not good. Yup you might need an overhaul if the blow by is that bad. That would contribute to the hard starting as well with weak injectors.

At least you have a plug. Hopefully the tools to change it in case of leak.

I had mud flaps on my truck but I pulled them since it was piling the mud up between the flap and fender metal. Now add salt it will start to rot the metal pretty quick. Also the flaps did not do much for keeping stuff from hitting the bottom bed metal. The flaps would have to be long enough that they just about drag the ground. My 2006 has long flap they work pretty good but looking in the mirror those pull back pretty good in the wind.

Are you using an isolator? If so that could be the problem. Im using just a sintered metal snubber and it quick to respond. Mine look like below.

Yes. Photo is too big. Needs cake back your camera or use a resize app. Most cellphone create monster huge photos. I've had to scale back the allowed size so we do run out of hard drive.

Is it still slow?

I got the wash for the roof. Then the primer for the roof then the coating itself which like I said in 2 to 3 years started peeling off. I highly suggest talking to @JAG1 about a better product.

The RV dealer I got my RV from had done a few repairs with Eternal Bond and sadly to say it did not work I had to pick all that off and reseal it with white silicone which stop the entire leak. Right at the corner of the slide where the trim met at the corner and the water would weep past the Eternal Bond. When I repaired it I clean all the old Eternal Bond and butyl rubber and then injected the silicone right into the corner. Never leaked again. Just like all the marker lights on top same thing Eternal bond and water weeped past the sealant and started delam on the front and rear ends. Now resealed with silicone no longer an issue. I know most of you say no silicone. But it does work and hold up much longer. So far I've used Dicor roof sealants (JUNK!) I've got to re do my roof all over again because it only last a mere 2 to 3 years and now peeling off. @JAG1even suggested poly urethane seals for the next time for resealing the roof.

Just keep in mind about the starter brushes they will wear out about the life of two sets contacts. I've still got my OEM starter in the shop and need a set of brushes for the starter and new contacts it would be ready for an extended life now.