Mopar1973Man

245/75 R16 will increase you to 3.69:1 final ratio. 265/75 R16 will bring you to stock 3.55:1 to the ground. 285/75 R16 will decrease 3.42:1 to the ground. (not optimal) Above 285's not suggest without gear change in the axles.

Already $3.689 for diesel here. I will be over $4 by start of summer. I'll most likely drop back my hyper-mile days again and crank up to 27 MPG. I still remember how to do it. I'm in good setup now and have way better chance of beating my old record. Better low end final ratio. Less rotational mass and just cut the speed back to 55 as MAX. Level 2 is the best for this being all the add fuel is cut back to stock levels. Still have the timing.

Quad is adjustable for warm up temp. Change the setting try again and see.

No worse come home walk around to the backside man door to the garage and have buck snort and blow snot all over you in the dark. Yup now I carry a Maglite on my belt.

I used a local machine shop in Caldwell ID. He specialized in Cummins engine and building racing engines. I know next time I'll not cheap out I only did 18 of the 24 valve guides because of budget limits. ARP 425 studs, head gasket kit, shortly afterwards installed 150 HP injectors. Still running 20° to 22° @ 2k RPM.

Problem... Stock and RV275 you can do with about any tuner. Now like 150 HP injectors you cannot because the only tuner with adjustable timing is Adrenaline. This is where the smoke bomb stem from. I ran 75 HP injectors with Edge Comp and they where very smokey. Now switch to Quadzilla cleaned right up with good timing control. Most tuners just stack couple degrees timing on top of stock. Still miss the mark. My current tune I'm about 21° @ 2k. Can't find that with most other tuners. There is Smarty Touch for +60HP which cost about $1800 for the fully meal deal. Now Quadzilla is about $700 and 180 HP tuner simpler that Smarty Touch and more power. These are the only two with full timing control. Not like Smarty S03 mild to wild timing which you can't see or adjust other than stacking plus amount on top of stock. Bigger the injectors require some deep retard to spool the turbo and then step back up after spooling. Hard to do built on top of stock values... Doesn't work good and rarely clean running. Kind of like building a Chevy 350 and going to run stock timing and huge carb don't make any sense?

Master connection for everything behind the cab. Located bottom of the front driver side fender on the cab.

Anytime. Never had any issues with animals. Neat to get up in the morning and see the deer standing on the deck looking back in the window. Sometimes listen to the turkeys calling out. Better than what most you get up too...

Guess what I'm in the same boat. My fuel gauge just quit the other day and I'm got a new sender in the fuel tank. Randomly my volt gauge drops to 8 volt and homes CHECK GAGES light. Fuel gauge just sunk to Empty and stayed. Im feeling it more PCM fault than wiring. Being PCM controls those two gauges. Only difference is my CCD bus is working and displaying the info as the PCM is reporting. The only thing I can think of for mine if the fender connector is corroded pins for the fuel gauge.

Tone ring coming apart on the crank? There has been a member that broke his tone ring when it fell out while running. It can happen.

Only thing different is Quadzilla allows for all timing control. Fuel side is easy how many % over or under stock fuel. Timing is the tough one because injector size, cetane levels, pop pressure, even tire sizes and final ratio affect how timing is figured out. Best I can say is the lowest engine load is optimal timing. Even with bitter cold and winterized fuel 18 to 19 MPG has been my average. As fuel prices go up I'll start to slow down. MPG start to rise. Last tank I was towing home an 1995 Ford F350.

I have to being wire tap and/or CANBus mean spun tires. You ain't winning if your spinning...

Output speed sesnor on the transmission possibly for the wild shifting. P1698 code you are going to do some testing of the voltages typically 2.51 and 2.49 volts when at rest when the computers stop talking. Pins 3 and 11 vs. ground.

You could still wire tap it when your ready then just leave the power level 2 (suggested) level 3 (depending on how aggressive your curve is)

2nd Gen styled doors now this should be a treat to watch being made.

Environmentalist believe this saying... "Solution to pollution is dilution..."

No that my plan you can't have it! Haul the RV and have my 2006 Dodge set up with tools to fix @JAG1 truck that is always broken.

USA is not polluter... CHINA -

Talk to @Blue-Top Steering he'll set you up.

... and social media. I don't watch a lot of TV now. I dropped out of the FB crap too.

Still the biggest problem I see... Now think of all the gun laws and infringement that the Gov't have leveled on the US citizen concerning firearms and weapons.

Make sure about the oil... Any water content of the oil should be heated till the oil is clean water free. Filtered oil make sure no particles or debris is not going to plug up your filters. There was something about salt content you had to watch for too. Been awhile since I last read about this.

Like I said before the P1693 doesn't exist by itself. Injectors can run poorly when they are popped below 300 bar. Typically around 280 bar it get like a misfire and rough idle. Now in a bit of studying I've done on injectors you can lose up to 5 to 10 bar within the first 25k to 50k miles. As the parts settle and wear in the pop pressure always drops a bit.

Still love my EV2's...

One of the low quality gauges. I would re-consider either Autometer or ISSPro.