Mopar1973Man

Did you just measure the filter or did you flatten them out? If you to cut the BHAF and lay the filter media out flat it much larger compared to the panel filter square inches.

180 HP gain is what Quadzilla claims is possible with stock engine and just the stock injectors. I would skip the RV275s and move on to a +50 HP injectors that are flow matched and pop tested all with a narrow margin than running 6 random injectors. Remember RV275's are technical stock injectors yet. The ISB Cummins for motorhomes used those RV275 injectors for stock. Least when you step up to +50HP your now on a performance built injectors with more pintle lift, matched pressures and flows. Cell phone or cheap Android tablet. Personally, I like the analog gauges like ISSPro EV2. They do not rely on the stock sensors for accuracy. But the live data is helpful fo diagnosing issues. MAP sensor is accurate above about 25 PSI for me. It shows I can make 69 PSI of boost (Quad Log) but actually only made 49 PSI of boost. Gauges will always be more accurate. Bucking is a sign of over advanced timing. This why the lower timing in the 1,500 realm so when you cruise state comes in you have to add on top of what is set for 1,500 timing say 13 degrees and cruise state is +4 degrees then that is a total of 17 degrees at cruise state at 1,500 which might state a mild bucking. Just imagine if some set it for 16 degrees at 1,500 and then stacked on +4 degrees for cruise state that is 20 degrees at 1,500 RPM's it will for sure buck! Can be. Being I was able to spin through a Southbend single disc on the top end. Now with the Valair dual disc no problem.

I tend to like the smaller calibers being its easier to keep your aim going. Large hand guns with more recoil takes even longer to re-aim and focus again. Small calibers you can pump rounds fast and keep your aim good. That one thing I wanna do this spring is do a bit work with my pistol and fire a few rounds again. Been awhile since I've had a chance.

As you can see I'm half way thru my life span on my injectors. Being when I installed the 7 x 0.010's I was at 13% brand new. Now as they aged and worn a bit now down to 6% at an idle. Still hitting the 800 RPM. I learned this trick when I was trying to re-use my old 150k stock OEM injectors and idle was always high like 850 to 875 RPM. But the engine load was ZERO. I had @dieselautopowerbench test my stock injectors I think there was one as low as 260 bar. But floated most at 270 to 280 bar. This is way to low and even now the timing is greatly advanced with low pop pressure remember takes less pressure to move the pintle in the injectors. Early to injection... Like I said about me popping at 320 bar added lifespan to the injector but you need to have a Quadzilla to make it right. Being the high pressure pop open later so the timing has to be made up on the Quadzilla to keep things happy.

Quadzilla isn't that hard. If you wanna cheat you can download any of the tunes that closely match what your doing then you can tweak the setting again. Quadzilla basically only work with two things. Fuel Timing Nothing else. Fuel side is easy for most because you know if your too heavy of fuel you get smoke. Too light and its weak on power. The timing is what pickles most peoples brain. Not like the old days looked in a book and it said to set you timing for 10 degrees BTDC with a timing light. Now no longer breaking out the timing light. We just grab the iQuad App and set it accordingly. I will mention I see a lot of people jumping for 15 to 16 degrees in the 1,500 realm it won't work. 1,500 should be slightly retarded being your cruise timing will stack on top giving back to your total timing. I suggest always starting with 13 degree in the 1,500 RPM. Better spool up and launching. If you going the wrong direction with timing your engine load will rise. (Either retarding or advancing). Over advancing I've see rising coolant temp and engine oil temp. Amount of flame front is on the cylinder walls will add to the coolant temp and oil temp. You can watch it on the iQuad app. This why I won't suggest any canned tuner. How are you suppose to make a good tune if you basing the timing of your power off a stock map that has plus amount stack on top? For me it takes a very long time several tanks of fuel and studying numbers and performance to determine if timing is good or not. There is outside factors like cetane, winterized fuel and weather that still plays against. Quadzilla doesn't know my fuel up here is closer to 45 to 50 cetane. Then when it flips over to summer fuel cetane drop and timing shifts again. This was one of my personal battles with Edge Comp. Hence why I figured out the MPG mode on the high idle switch to gain back timing and improve MPG. Again Edge was stacking timing on top of stock timing that is another +4 degrees after the IAT dropped below +80*F. So now in the winter you ran around over advanced and wonder why the MPG fell out. So with the MPG mode of the switch I force the ECM to see 143*F and timing dropped. Now the Edge Comp advancement amount was more fitting. This when I did get my 27.2 MPG record. This being said I never wanna go back to canned tuners like Edge, Diablo, SuperChips, Smarty S-03, etc. Just always stacked on top of stock timing map. Doesn't make the timing correct for everyone's application. This is where the entire smoke problem came from because "canned tuners" didn't know the owner just dropped 35 inch wheels on 3.55 gears, and then installed 200 HP injectors with a fat single turbo. So how is Edge suppose to handle that? It can't, it a smoke bomb. This where Quadzilla can shine thru. You can adapt a bit to the add on and make things work. Change a fuel map to control smoke for daily driver. Up the timing to get more preheating of the fuel and ignition point. Nice deep retard to spool the turbo quickly. Again other tuners can't do it... Bigger injectors need more timing. Like my truck 20 to 22 degrees at 2,000 RPM. Won't find that with my Edge Comp more like 14 to 16 degrees at 2,000 RPM. Still got my Edge Comp too.

Kind of like my Dad's Fire Star which was made in Spain. No longer produced. No parts available for it. No extra clip. No good holsters for this pistol. Only reason I would upgrade is to get a name brand weapon so I can get parts, clips and possibly a holster I wanna wear not these custom rebuild things.

Actually is a full delete. The last one I ran you must back up the stock ECM first. Then when you loaded up the deleted side the software for the different functions was deleted completely from the ECM. Now if you needed to return back to stock function you could flash the back up on the tuner. But the actual software is DELETED from the ECM completely, not just disabled. That was the last 2012 Truck I dealt with being there was two different tuners I had to clean up. Required a "stock" reflash at the dealer then reset the delete tuner again everything work right this go around. There is no error codes, no warning messages, nothing. That particular truck was missing everything...

Not sure what your ratio is most likely the Speedometer is wrong you might get GPS out give real speed. Like myself my ABS is correct for my wheels and tires. So with 245/75 R16 and 3.55 axle gears I'm at 3.69 for final ratio. If your speedometer isn't calibrated to your tires then all your speed and distance is inaccurate by quite a bit. The only thing is auto do have a slightly taller final gear. 0.68 ratio IIRC. 66 MPH = 2,000 RPM 82 MPH = 2,500 RPM Engine load is 1% for your injectors are close to final life. This is the ECM defueling more and more trying to hold the engine idle at 800 RPM. When it hits zero the idle speed will start to climb. Typically new injectors are like 7 to 10% engine load at a perfect 800 RPM. If there is little mileage on them you can just pull them out and have them repopped. I'll give a clue stock is 310 bar. Most builder pop at 300 to 305 bar. But in the first 20k miles you might lose roughly 5 to 10 bar in break-in period. At about 280 bar the injectors are bottomed out and idle starts to rise above 800. This why I had my 7 x 0.010 popped to 320 bar better spray, finer mist, better ignition quality. On top of all that extended life span. Slightly less fuel.

There is way to "software delete" 2007 up. So visually it looks complete but the software is completely missing. I've got my connection on how to get a hold of said tuners. You can keep all the emission stuff completely. So to make it really good is take the DPF beat the guts out of it. Reinstall. EGR Cooler put freeze plugs in both end. Then run your delete tuner.

Who said the stock turbo will remain in the truck forever? I can't do it all right away but it will be replaced at some point too. I'm planning ahead and leave options open for going farther forward in power. Right now I'm not exactly set on any per say size of injectors yet. My design was looking dor about 500 to 550 HP. As a goal but I've several other thing to fix too. Poorly done leveling kit that is trashing the steering and suspension. Get rid of the 33 inch tires and get the final ratio back nearl stock. Again this is a long term project and planning ahead now instead of upgrading again later. I've gotta balance things being my 2002 is down and out right now with fuel gauge issue, charging issue, and volt gauge dropping for no reason while the alternator is still charging 14.3 volts. (This is a another topic).

Hence why I daily carry my 9mm over my .22 pistol.

Yeah previous owner did know about the wastegate solenoid the wires were pulled out of the solenoid. Hence why it has CEL on. Who said towing was the only thing? This truck might play a bit too when I get it finished. True I might not tow with that much power but I'll play once in awhile with others. Work in progress...

Give me a bit of time ill most likely show up in my 2006 Dodge. Then we will party maybe a bit of street racing. It's all good...

Sorry I didn't get any photos of the install but it all together and running. Short drive up the highway and it's quiet compared to my 2002. I'm planning on new injectors next and wastegate solenoid. This truck is going to pulling trailers and hauling weight. Oh yeah I will be putting either EFILive or a Smarty on this truck. Already had a nice long chat with @dieselautopower (Jacob Kidd) and going to use most of that clutch capacity. Wonderful to get it running for the first time in about 3 years. I've got one more task before VIN inspection is getting the tail lights fixed and clean up the wire mess behind the rear bumper.

I've got a Ruger .22 pistol that can use either .22 Mags or .22 long rifle. Being its a single action it sounds like pop gun with long rifle shells but load up mags and it sounds more like a .357 when fired.

Personally the hole in the manifold is the same and tube feeding the intake horn is the same. Putting that big bulb head on it just make more turbulence in the air flow. True flow intakes like used in racing is the same size both ends and smooth bend.

Perfect! That right there tells me you do have 4.10 gears. Actually this is a good setup. Your at 3.71:1 final to the ground with 35 inch tires. You can typically double check ratio in the glovebox might have it or the under side of the hood.

Ouch!!! If that 35 inch tires on 3.55 gears you not going to get any MPG's. Your final ratio is 3.21:1 to the ground if your rear axle is 3.55 ratio. You will need to change the axle gears to 4.10 to gain any MPG's back. Optimal is between 3.55 to 3.73 final ratio. Like myself I run 245/75 R16 (30.5 inch tires) which gives me a final ratio to the ground of 3.69:1. This puts me right at 2,000 RPM at 66 MPH. Still running 18 to 19 MPG on winterized diesel up here. Again with your setup you need more retarding to get the turbos to spool up because of the tall final ratio. Even running 82 MPH at 2,500 RPMs I still can touch 20 MPG in the summer. On the injectors what does the Quadzilla show for "engine load" full warmed up and in park or neutral? Gives me a bit more clue where you at.

HotRod VP44 will need a custom timing for sure being that hotrod pumps are mechanically advanced in timing slightly. Questions? What transmission do you have? What rear end gear do you have? What size tires on on the truck? What pop pressure are your injectors set too? How many miles on the injectors? Basically you want a flat fuel table. Like what I've got on my truck is from 0 to 5 PSI is ramping up for smoke control. Then from 5 PSI to 15 PSI is just 100% fuel table. Above the 15 it ramps up again to 150%. This flat zone is built around daily driving but provides that passing power when boost is over 15 PSI then is steps up. This would have to be modified to fit you. Timing wise you going to need to provide for the info above. final gearing, axle(s) gear ratio, etc. All these make a impact on how to tune the timing. Like oversize tires will require a deep retard to spool quickly. Pop pressure affects timing if they are below 310 bar then they are advance in timing and require less. Above 310 bar like me I've gotta add more timing.

Yeah I would most likely cut that plastic block terminal off and replace with a crimped ring terminals on the wire. Then use that positive lead from alternator to the circuit breaker and battery.

That series is a pain in the tail. Your going to have to modify that whole setup the charge lead and the two field leads.

Possible too...

People think I only deal with my own truck being 90% of the photos I post here. Actually, I've worked for the public now for over 18 years doing diesel work in my local community. After seeing all the different versions of washable performance filters and the results I can clearly say there is no washable filter capable of keeping the dirt and dust out of your engine. Every time you wash that filter you are reducing the filter media from a good micro number to nothing more than a screen door. When do you toss it out? ANYTIME there is dust or blackness to the turbo. This means there are dust and debris passing through.

Make sure to order a extra fuse. I've got no access to any ANL fuses locally and have to order them as well. Hence why for the W-T ground mod I did the circuit breaker being if you blow a fuse I don't want to wait WEEKS for a fuse to be ordered.

Hmmmm... Here soon the skunks will be running around here doing the same thing. Always get one that with spray close to the house you'll smell it for about a week and get use to the smell. Where everyone complains about the skunk smell. @JAG1Your welcome to come here and see if Idaho skunk smells better than Oregon skunk.