Mopar1973Man

Sorry I didn't get any photos of the install but it all together and running. Short drive up the highway and it's quiet compared to my 2002. I'm planning on new injectors next and wastegate solenoid. This truck is going to pulling trailers and hauling weight. Oh yeah I will be putting either EFILive or a Smarty on this truck. Already had a nice long chat with @dieselautopower (Jacob Kidd) and going to use most of that clutch capacity. Wonderful to get it running for the first time in about 3 years. I've got one more task before VIN inspection is getting the tail lights fixed and clean up the wire mess behind the rear bumper.

I've got a Ruger .22 pistol that can use either .22 Mags or .22 long rifle. Being its a single action it sounds like pop gun with long rifle shells but load up mags and it sounds more like a .357 when fired.

Personally the hole in the manifold is the same and tube feeding the intake horn is the same. Putting that big bulb head on it just make more turbulence in the air flow. True flow intakes like used in racing is the same size both ends and smooth bend.

Perfect! That right there tells me you do have 4.10 gears. Actually this is a good setup. Your at 3.71:1 final to the ground with 35 inch tires. You can typically double check ratio in the glovebox might have it or the under side of the hood.

Ouch!!! If that 35 inch tires on 3.55 gears you not going to get any MPG's. Your final ratio is 3.21:1 to the ground if your rear axle is 3.55 ratio. You will need to change the axle gears to 4.10 to gain any MPG's back. Optimal is between 3.55 to 3.73 final ratio. Like myself I run 245/75 R16 (30.5 inch tires) which gives me a final ratio to the ground of 3.69:1. This puts me right at 2,000 RPM at 66 MPH. Still running 18 to 19 MPG on winterized diesel up here. Again with your setup you need more retarding to get the turbos to spool up because of the tall final ratio. Even running 82 MPH at 2,500 RPMs I still can touch 20 MPG in the summer. On the injectors what does the Quadzilla show for "engine load" full warmed up and in park or neutral? Gives me a bit more clue where you at.

HotRod VP44 will need a custom timing for sure being that hotrod pumps are mechanically advanced in timing slightly. Questions? What transmission do you have? What rear end gear do you have? What size tires on on the truck? What pop pressure are your injectors set too? How many miles on the injectors? Basically you want a flat fuel table. Like what I've got on my truck is from 0 to 5 PSI is ramping up for smoke control. Then from 5 PSI to 15 PSI is just 100% fuel table. Above the 15 it ramps up again to 150%. This flat zone is built around daily driving but provides that passing power when boost is over 15 PSI then is steps up. This would have to be modified to fit you. Timing wise you going to need to provide for the info above. final gearing, axle(s) gear ratio, etc. All these make a impact on how to tune the timing. Like oversize tires will require a deep retard to spool quickly. Pop pressure affects timing if they are below 310 bar then they are advance in timing and require less. Above 310 bar like me I've gotta add more timing.

Yeah I would most likely cut that plastic block terminal off and replace with a crimped ring terminals on the wire. Then use that positive lead from alternator to the circuit breaker and battery.

That series is a pain in the tail. Your going to have to modify that whole setup the charge lead and the two field leads.

Possible too...

People think I only deal with my own truck being 90% of the photos I post here. Actually, I've worked for the public now for over 18 years doing diesel work in my local community. After seeing all the different versions of washable performance filters and the results I can clearly say there is no washable filter capable of keeping the dirt and dust out of your engine. Every time you wash that filter you are reducing the filter media from a good micro number to nothing more than a screen door. When do you toss it out? ANYTIME there is dust or blackness to the turbo. This means there are dust and debris passing through.

Make sure to order a extra fuse. I've got no access to any ANL fuses locally and have to order them as well. Hence why for the W-T ground mod I did the circuit breaker being if you blow a fuse I don't want to wait WEEKS for a fuse to be ordered.

Hmmmm... Here soon the skunks will be running around here doing the same thing. Always get one that with spray close to the house you'll smell it for about a week and get use to the smell. Where everyone complains about the skunk smell. @JAG1Your welcome to come here and see if Idaho skunk smells better than Oregon skunk.

Personally I would replace connector tubes every time the injectors are changed. Why? Because there is a device called a Edge Filter down inside the tube. These Edge Filters hold up ant debris that makes past the VP44 pump and traps it till the either pressure pulse breaks it down and passes through the injector or remains lodged in the edge filter. 3rd Gens and up it always suggested to replace connector tubes with injectors because even the higher pressure has been known to wear the edge filter out from debris as seen below.

Stock air elbow is better than any aftermarket. I always get a giggle when the plastic duct work breaksdown over years of being heated and cooled. The stock air elbow is rubber and built to withstand the heat and conditions under the hood. Its a smooth bore and always flows better than most aftermarkets. Like myself I live out in the dirt roads so washable filter tend to pass more dirt than BHAF. (Big Honkin' Air Filter). Now look at your turbo is it clean or is it dirty? If it black and dirty your filter has failed you and your passing dirt into the engine and doing serious damage! Here is a failed washable filter after passing dirt to the turbo. This same dirt is all the into the engine! Now after checking my own turbo with a BHAF this is after 100k miles of running a BHAF... So tell me which filter is better at keeping the dirt and debris out of your engine? Sure is not a washable filter that is for sure!

As many time I've replaced crank sensors on the early 2nd Gens with NAPA crank sensors I've always had then last a good long time. Being NAPA is the only part store near me. Everything else Autozone, O'Rilley's, etc. are all over 150 miles away. At least NAPA ships to my door for FREE every Tuesday. Like my new pricing layout if I drive to get parts its $1.50 a mile. So McCall is 70 mile round trip roughly. That an extra $105 on someone bill. Or like my last trip to Lewiston for a fuel lines that could 250 mile round trip $375 on someones bill. Being where I live and the distances I've got to run I can no longer just suck it up being fuel is now nearly $4 a gallon here.

I curious how your going to latch and deal with that pointed top of the rear quad door.

I pretty sure the MAX slider is only to control how high the cruise timing can go above the rest. Being the cruise timing is ADDED to the max value this means the max slider will control how far your cruise time can go.

I get it we are all getting older. When I started this adventure of web based Cummins support I was only 32 when I bought my 2002 Cummins. Now I'm 50 years old and just doing the clutch in the 2006 is kicking my arse more so my back and hips. Yeah I get it if you can get a simple job handled by someone else you would opt for it if the price is cheap enough right? Even the best professionals do make mistakes even like myself I forgot a bolt for an airbox on a customers 2012 truck.

Most likely the connecting rod bearing are washed out. I've seen one other that managed to leave valve impressions in the pistons.

What i would get... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MPECSS636SB?impressionRank=3&keywordInput=34+crank+position+sensor

Correct. The main page under timing you set all them to ZERO. Then under max timing you set for the PLUS amount over stock.

650 HP holding power and perfect for this truck being next is injectors and a tuner. Truck will be heavy and possibly hauling the RV for jobs too so. That way we can make home on long projects than driving back and forth to home. I've got jobs in the field now that is killing me in fuel going back and forth for tools or supplies. 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 (SRW) - G56 transmission, 4WD truck with a gooseneck ball... Oh that "Full Force" box is a set of injectors for @Jthor 1995 Ford F-350 7.3L injectors. Stage 1 injectors and 160cc pumps. Still gotta get the title swapped over to Idaho and have a VIN inspection.

I'm moving forward on building my shop truck. I've got the Valiar Quiet Towing Dual Disc clutch from @dieselautopower. Started this morning getting the old flywheel and flex plate out. Come to find out the rear main seal is weeping. So, I got @Jthorto run to NAPA and pickup a rear main seal for $40. But here is what I've got... Rear crank seal is wet. Change it now while the clutch is out... Then slam in the flywheel... Here is the friction disc stack.

I can say without a doubt the Cam Sensor I replaced a few weeks ago was a NAPA and it was EXACTLY like the OEM sensor right down to numbers on the body and the o-ring seal.

Currently when I turn the key on it tells me there is no fuel the low fuel light comes on. It was just a few months ago I changed the sensor out in the tank. The volt gauge tends to start fine but later on drop to 8V even though my battery voltage is 14.2 to 14.5 volts still. Now I plan on verifying the fuel sender to see if I can measure any ohm resistance at the PCM if so them the sensor is fine by the PCM had failed. Volt gauge I really can't test no way being the voltage is sensed and the reported to the cluster over the CCD network. I might be calling @Auto Computer Specialist and talking to them on warranty call.