Mopar1973Man

Not quite. If you cut the filter media out and laid it out flat the BHAF is MUCH larger over the panel filter being each pleat is wider so when flatten out nad measured the BHAF is much bigger than what your numbers are. You can't just measure the outside and do math you need to cut the media out of an old filter and measure the actual media on a flat plane not all folded up in pleats.

Basically the optimal plan is to get both the CANBus and the Wiretap set for the same starting point and rise together to the end of the +30 PSI map. Anyone setting it for 5 PSI is wasting fuel for the most part because of the adding wire tap so low. Wire tap should not be in your daily driving zone. Like me for where I live I need at least 0 to 15 PSI for daily driving zone so everything above 15 PSI the CANBus fuel and wiretap ramp up together is is way more power than starting the wire tap at 5 PSI and ramping up over a wider bandwidth. 0 PSI to 5 PSI is 80 to 100% (Defuel smoke control - Cut the fuel to 80% of stock) 6 PSI to 15 PSI is 100% fuel (Stock - Daily driver zone - just running on my 7 x 0.010 and timing. No extra fuel!) 16 PSI and up is ramping to 150%. (Power Mode - This where both CANBus and Wiretap ramp together) Now take you wire tap start it at 15 PSI and set it for 1200us worth of pulse. It will pull like a raped ape. Now using your power levels. 0 - Stock (Quadzilla Disabled) 1 - Valet Mode 2 - Stock Fuel Only (Ramp only to 100% and stops) 3 CANBus Fuel (Uses full Canbus fuel map) 4 and up - Using your wiretap (Percentage wise) Most of my daily driving I'm either 2 or 3 for power level. If I need serious power I grab level 7. Better hang on tight because it does pull hard. Hard enough to dump objects off the dash in the front seat, floor and rare enough even the back seat. I'm also finding I can lure in more Fords and Chevy's with Level 2. Then switch to level 7 when I reach the next light and stomp em! Funny, level 2 is got a bit of power of the injectors but not quite enough to pull ahead (hooked!) now turn up the power and go the next round for the win and usually other driver loses. Make sure the 1,500 RPM Max Timing is 13° this ensures good retard for good spooling and fast spooling. At least my current tune is built with good bottom end pull away but true power isn't till 15 PSI and now when the tap does kick in ZERO change of the smoke of the tailpipe but the tires have been know to start smoke because of lack of traction.

Why? In all the years of running a BHAF I've never got the filter minder to move. The only way it will suck in the media is if you plug the media with enough dust and or water to seal the media and cause it to pull into the turbo. My rule of thumb is if the media inside is starting to discolor then its time to replace. About every 150k miles or so. 430k miles and rolling.

It's based off of watch engine load as you travel and engine oil temperature. High engine load means the the timing is not efficient or excessive drag. If you oil temp starts to creep up that mean there is more flame front on the cylinder walls heating the coolant and oil. Typically to advanced. Now you can advance timing by having washout injectors that are popped too low <300 bar. The more you get close to the actually desired timing the engine load will drop and the engine oil temp will drop. More energy is produced into work and less into coolant or oil heat. Any kind of excessive heat that is created is wasted energy that was not turning the tires.

Best to jack up the axle in the front so the tires are off the ground. Now if the reservoir is full the go from lock to lock WITHOUT the engine running. The movement of the piston in the steering box will pump the fluid back out the return like to the reservoir. You'll be able to look in and see the foam pump out just with the steering going lock to lock.

Vulcan no longer produces the Jeep Liberty modules or deal with that older module style. Here is the DAP link... https://www.dieselautopower.com/vpmax-mfm2-modified-fuel-module-98-04-with-draw-tube-installed?Category_Code=

If the fluid is foamy after running your too low and do have air trapped in the system. You could start it up and purge it out then you have to shut down till the foam goes away typically about 30 minutes or so. If you continue to drive the truck it will eventually go away but the steering and brake performance will be reduced being air does compress so the system is degraded till the air is purge out of the fluid.

Not to ... Like myself I've just lost my fuel gauge as well. Mine I found my issue was the pin on the module had rotted away. I'm got a fuel sender basket coming from DAP. I gotta say thanks to both @JAG1 and @IBMobile for trying to help. I gave JAG1 a call and he passed it down the pipe to IBMobile. Funny I didn't know that RockAuto had the stock sender in stock. Which is part number 04897668AF (Mopar). After looking at it and what I order from DAP. Sad to say DAP was over 30 dollar saving vs. RockAuto. The DAP sender is a the modified with the draw straw as well. I can try the straw in the basket and the straw in the tank see which one is cooler and which one does better. Just cap the other straw.

Sorry I've got no idea on the Allen screw but I can most likely assure you that the Allen screw is metric. As for the ECM WTS light is dead clue being it did not come on the ECM is not booting up.

Yes the actual fractional value is use. The display when you look after editing will be round up. But when you go back to edit its still storing the fractional amount so that is what it does use for the values.

Finally I've known of this upgrade for quite some time being I've done the beta test on it and still using mine. The iQuad head has both WiFi and Bluetooth both. Mine has been working way better than previous version.

You can it not the hot rod pump fuel matters which it really doesn't it the fact that Hot Rod pump are advanced mechanically in timing. It the fact you 'll always have to calculate in that offset just like I've got to calculate the offset of timing because of the 320 bar injectors. This makes my timing late so I got to add more timing than normal. You will have to retard more than normal. Again its not the fuel part being it only an extra 21 HP you gaining.

Did you just measure the filter or did you flatten them out? If you to cut the BHAF and lay the filter media out flat it much larger compared to the panel filter square inches.

180 HP gain is what Quadzilla claims is possible with stock engine and just the stock injectors. I would skip the RV275s and move on to a +50 HP injectors that are flow matched and pop tested all with a narrow margin than running 6 random injectors. Remember RV275's are technical stock injectors yet. The ISB Cummins for motorhomes used those RV275 injectors for stock. Least when you step up to +50HP your now on a performance built injectors with more pintle lift, matched pressures and flows. Cell phone or cheap Android tablet. Personally, I like the analog gauges like ISSPro EV2. They do not rely on the stock sensors for accuracy. But the live data is helpful fo diagnosing issues. MAP sensor is accurate above about 25 PSI for me. It shows I can make 69 PSI of boost (Quad Log) but actually only made 49 PSI of boost. Gauges will always be more accurate. Bucking is a sign of over advanced timing. This why the lower timing in the 1,500 realm so when you cruise state comes in you have to add on top of what is set for 1,500 timing say 13 degrees and cruise state is +4 degrees then that is a total of 17 degrees at cruise state at 1,500 which might state a mild bucking. Just imagine if some set it for 16 degrees at 1,500 and then stacked on +4 degrees for cruise state that is 20 degrees at 1,500 RPM's it will for sure buck! Can be. Being I was able to spin through a Southbend single disc on the top end. Now with the Valair dual disc no problem.

I tend to like the smaller calibers being its easier to keep your aim going. Large hand guns with more recoil takes even longer to re-aim and focus again. Small calibers you can pump rounds fast and keep your aim good. That one thing I wanna do this spring is do a bit work with my pistol and fire a few rounds again. Been awhile since I've had a chance.

As you can see I'm half way thru my life span on my injectors. Being when I installed the 7 x 0.010's I was at 13% brand new. Now as they aged and worn a bit now down to 6% at an idle. Still hitting the 800 RPM. I learned this trick when I was trying to re-use my old 150k stock OEM injectors and idle was always high like 850 to 875 RPM. But the engine load was ZERO. I had @dieselautopowerbench test my stock injectors I think there was one as low as 260 bar. But floated most at 270 to 280 bar. This is way to low and even now the timing is greatly advanced with low pop pressure remember takes less pressure to move the pintle in the injectors. Early to injection... Like I said about me popping at 320 bar added lifespan to the injector but you need to have a Quadzilla to make it right. Being the high pressure pop open later so the timing has to be made up on the Quadzilla to keep things happy.

Quadzilla isn't that hard. If you wanna cheat you can download any of the tunes that closely match what your doing then you can tweak the setting again. Quadzilla basically only work with two things. Fuel Timing Nothing else. Fuel side is easy for most because you know if your too heavy of fuel you get smoke. Too light and its weak on power. The timing is what pickles most peoples brain. Not like the old days looked in a book and it said to set you timing for 10 degrees BTDC with a timing light. Now no longer breaking out the timing light. We just grab the iQuad App and set it accordingly. I will mention I see a lot of people jumping for 15 to 16 degrees in the 1,500 realm it won't work. 1,500 should be slightly retarded being your cruise timing will stack on top giving back to your total timing. I suggest always starting with 13 degree in the 1,500 RPM. Better spool up and launching. If you going the wrong direction with timing your engine load will rise. (Either retarding or advancing). Over advancing I've see rising coolant temp and engine oil temp. Amount of flame front is on the cylinder walls will add to the coolant temp and oil temp. You can watch it on the iQuad app. This why I won't suggest any canned tuner. How are you suppose to make a good tune if you basing the timing of your power off a stock map that has plus amount stack on top? For me it takes a very long time several tanks of fuel and studying numbers and performance to determine if timing is good or not. There is outside factors like cetane, winterized fuel and weather that still plays against. Quadzilla doesn't know my fuel up here is closer to 45 to 50 cetane. Then when it flips over to summer fuel cetane drop and timing shifts again. This was one of my personal battles with Edge Comp. Hence why I figured out the MPG mode on the high idle switch to gain back timing and improve MPG. Again Edge was stacking timing on top of stock timing that is another +4 degrees after the IAT dropped below +80*F. So now in the winter you ran around over advanced and wonder why the MPG fell out. So with the MPG mode of the switch I force the ECM to see 143*F and timing dropped. Now the Edge Comp advancement amount was more fitting. This when I did get my 27.2 MPG record. This being said I never wanna go back to canned tuners like Edge, Diablo, SuperChips, Smarty S-03, etc. Just always stacked on top of stock timing map. Doesn't make the timing correct for everyone's application. This is where the entire smoke problem came from because "canned tuners" didn't know the owner just dropped 35 inch wheels on 3.55 gears, and then installed 200 HP injectors with a fat single turbo. So how is Edge suppose to handle that? It can't, it a smoke bomb. This where Quadzilla can shine thru. You can adapt a bit to the add on and make things work. Change a fuel map to control smoke for daily driver. Up the timing to get more preheating of the fuel and ignition point. Nice deep retard to spool the turbo quickly. Again other tuners can't do it... Bigger injectors need more timing. Like my truck 20 to 22 degrees at 2,000 RPM. Won't find that with my Edge Comp more like 14 to 16 degrees at 2,000 RPM. Still got my Edge Comp too.

Kind of like my Dad's Fire Star which was made in Spain. No longer produced. No parts available for it. No extra clip. No good holsters for this pistol. Only reason I would upgrade is to get a name brand weapon so I can get parts, clips and possibly a holster I wanna wear not these custom rebuild things.

Actually is a full delete. The last one I ran you must back up the stock ECM first. Then when you loaded up the deleted side the software for the different functions was deleted completely from the ECM. Now if you needed to return back to stock function you could flash the back up on the tuner. But the actual software is DELETED from the ECM completely, not just disabled. That was the last 2012 Truck I dealt with being there was two different tuners I had to clean up. Required a "stock" reflash at the dealer then reset the delete tuner again everything work right this go around. There is no error codes, no warning messages, nothing. That particular truck was missing everything...

Not sure what your ratio is most likely the Speedometer is wrong you might get GPS out give real speed. Like myself my ABS is correct for my wheels and tires. So with 245/75 R16 and 3.55 axle gears I'm at 3.69 for final ratio. If your speedometer isn't calibrated to your tires then all your speed and distance is inaccurate by quite a bit. The only thing is auto do have a slightly taller final gear. 0.68 ratio IIRC. 66 MPH = 2,000 RPM 82 MPH = 2,500 RPM Engine load is 1% for your injectors are close to final life. This is the ECM defueling more and more trying to hold the engine idle at 800 RPM. When it hits zero the idle speed will start to climb. Typically new injectors are like 7 to 10% engine load at a perfect 800 RPM. If there is little mileage on them you can just pull them out and have them repopped. I'll give a clue stock is 310 bar. Most builder pop at 300 to 305 bar. But in the first 20k miles you might lose roughly 5 to 10 bar in break-in period. At about 280 bar the injectors are bottomed out and idle starts to rise above 800. This why I had my 7 x 0.010 popped to 320 bar better spray, finer mist, better ignition quality. On top of all that extended life span. Slightly less fuel.

There is way to "software delete" 2007 up. So visually it looks complete but the software is completely missing. I've got my connection on how to get a hold of said tuners. You can keep all the emission stuff completely. So to make it really good is take the DPF beat the guts out of it. Reinstall. EGR Cooler put freeze plugs in both end. Then run your delete tuner.

Who said the stock turbo will remain in the truck forever? I can't do it all right away but it will be replaced at some point too. I'm planning ahead and leave options open for going farther forward in power. Right now I'm not exactly set on any per say size of injectors yet. My design was looking dor about 500 to 550 HP. As a goal but I've several other thing to fix too. Poorly done leveling kit that is trashing the steering and suspension. Get rid of the 33 inch tires and get the final ratio back nearl stock. Again this is a long term project and planning ahead now instead of upgrading again later. I've gotta balance things being my 2002 is down and out right now with fuel gauge issue, charging issue, and volt gauge dropping for no reason while the alternator is still charging 14.3 volts. (This is a another topic).

Hence why I daily carry my 9mm over my .22 pistol.

Yeah previous owner did know about the wastegate solenoid the wires were pulled out of the solenoid. Hence why it has CEL on. Who said towing was the only thing? This truck might play a bit too when I get it finished. True I might not tow with that much power but I'll play once in awhile with others. Work in progress...

Give me a bit of time ill most likely show up in my 2006 Dodge. Then we will party maybe a bit of street racing. It's all good...