Mopar1973Man

Been using a mayo jar and vinyl tubing for years. Tubing has to have snug fit.

Yes you should be able to key on no start to test the system.

USPS can be slow yet being the amount of freight still being sent making up from the COVID-19 shut down.

Also at 320 bar (7 x 0.010). No starting or idling issues. Being my setup can and will spin all 4 tires. Towing power is super good. Your larger tires do change the final ratio lower number. Like myself went smaller tired and increased the final ratio to 3.69 and I run 2k RPM at 66 MPH. This lowered my EGTs. Even my 2006 Dodge is 3.73 gears and slightly larger tires and just about the same RPM at 66 MPH. You should be cruising close to 2k at 65 MPH. Even at 80 MPH im just under 2.5 RPM. 2002 at 65 MPH is about 2.5 PSI boost and 550 to 600 EGTs. 2006 at 65 MPH is about 5 PSI boost and about 650 EGTs. FINAL RATIO - has huge effects on running EGTs.

Cool. At least you heading forward again.

Be best to have a tuner and gain back the boost fooler. Like the 2006 I've got any time it has any engine code the boost is limited to barely 20 PSI which the EGTs are much higher. When all codes cleared it will run 30 to 35 PSI and EGTs are much lower. Always best to have good boost while towing or climbing grades.

18 to 19 PSI... at 20 PSI the ECM is defueling.

You could send a sample of oil to a lab and verify the if the oil is contaminated. Place fuel can come from... Injector o-rings and high return pressure on the VP44. Bad injector(s) that is stuck open or cracked nozzle. Cracked head (rare) but yes I've seen this where the return fuel was push up into the top of the head. Worn rings . cylinder wall clearance (excessive blow by)

Quad XZT is like the Edge EZ model. Way different when you have the Adrenaline. Way more control of everything including timing and fuel mapping. Still best to have a tuner module that allows for custom timing. This is where the High MPG comes from. Fuel map you can custom out like I've done. 0 to 5 PSI from 80% to 100%, then from 5 to 15 PSI is all STOCK fuel at 100%. Then at 15 PSI and up both my wire tap and the CANBus fuel will rise together for strong passing power. My timing is currently 20 degrees at 2k RPM's in cruise state.

Yea, I agree, I was sold on Lucas when my power steering pump was leaking a half Qt a day out the sector shaft seal while on the on the road in NH , stopped and bought a Qt of Lucas Steering stop leak, 3/4 through the Qt the leak stopped. Be careful. If you use too much of that product it can and will blow the pump or the hoses. I've seen it done on a older Ford pickup and the thickness of the product can increase pressure sharply and blow things up. The owner of this truck just kept adding the product and eventually it blow the pressure hose in half.

Just to say this my first adventure with my diesel was a failed lift pump pumping a mere 7 PSI and shortly after that P0216 code. This was the beginning of my website back in 2004. The first article I made. All covered under warranty. From that point upgraded stuff and never looked back. My second VP44 failed after 247k miles and a P0216 code but stuck in full advancement. Still running on my 3rd pump at 432k miles. Even the Dodge FSM states 10 PSI minimum.

Still would not of cut the wires. Exposed wires will always degrade faster even with shrink tube. Just think even the factory ground splices are sealed in shrink tube and glued ends. Still we all do the W-T ground mod.

As for MAP sensors you should try a second one of quality. (Cummins or NAPA). Then ohm out the wires between the ECM and MAP sensor. Might be a bad Quadzilla module and/or wiring too.

All true above. I normal use the same oil the system is running. Like A/C I've got a bit of PAG oil. Engine stuff I use engine oil. Pretty simple.

Correct this is why I suggest 14 to 20 PSI. Below 14 PSI is starts closing then by 10 PSI the overflow is closed. All extra cooling and luring is gone below 10 PSI.

Typically o-rings you not suppose to use any sealant on any o-rings. Heck I pulled the adapter plate off of the 2006 and didn't even mess with it and bolted it back up. I pulled it to change the rear main seal. No leaks.

For once I've got a shop truck (2006) so now I can return the (2002) to being the play truck. It sits more now since Thor was added to the fleet.

Few to look at... Check for AC noise from the alternator. Might consider checking all wiring between the ECM and the APPS sensor. Check on all grounds. If none of this works you'll need to pull the ECM and have it tested and repaired.

Also running 7x0.010 injectors. Heck just hauled the RV over 17 miles of steep climb no issues with EGTs or coolant temps. Super good power. The only way to keep heat down is have a final ratio of 3.55 to 3.73 AFTER tires. If you have 3.55 with over sized tires you'll be heading lower below 3.55.

Make sure while you doing it to change the two solenoids too. This will cover all the the electrical stuff and should resolve the fuse blowing issue.

Another thing if it got over 150k on the injectors you will need to replace injectors. Even if it still runs good, still should be changed. Like my 2006 Dodge it starts and ran fine bit of blue smoke in the morning. After running it 30 miles it dumped over 3 quarts of Diesel into the crankcase oil. (Stuck open injectors). After changing all 6 out for +50HP DAP injectors problem is gone. Way better fuel economy over the old injectors with 225k miles.

Yeah. Boost shows right for me up to about 25 PSI then after that it starts to skew. When I hit roughly 45 to 47 PSI the Quad shows me maxed out at 67 PSI. You might talk to @dripley about the MAP sensor ground and where the crimp is you might look over the MAP sensor circuit.

Made my first haul with my RV. After a long few weeks and little time off I've hitched up my RV and hauled out to a camp spot on the Snake River. Engine did fine. Just need to rebuild mt heat shield for the transmission. Making that 17 mile run on dirt roads trans got marginally hot. Towing power was good. Now time to fix all the other little things like door locks, etc.

No need to cut any wires. Like I said just 3 screws and the plug will come apart from the fuel solenoid. You can see both fuel solenoid on the bottom and the timing solenoid above. Nothing to cut period.

I can say without a doubt I found a gent that has managed in increasing the VP44 volume and capacity. We've been talking for a awhile and made a beta test pump. I can't remember the volume per stroke but it's got more than a dragon fire pump.