Mopar1973Man

Crappy noise filters for a bad ground and alternator issues. If it was me I would ditch all that and return to normal stock wiring and fix the real issue of the bad ground with the W-T ground wire mod and then test the alternator.

Sadly. I would remove the injection pump and see about getting a rebuild kit and replace all the seals including the front seal too so the diesel fuel doesn't leak in the crankcase. Reman pumps are available from @dieselautopower . I would consider that being the governor spring and other internal parts do wear out. So before performing any repairs I would highly suggest removing the pump from the truck. That cover should have 4 Allen bolts holding it on. Be careful the Governor Spring is attached to the cover and could be replaced but be careful not to stretch the spring. Serioyusly I would just consider a reman'd pump at least then the pump is in good shape to keep running.

Firs thought is Injectors if they never been changed. Injectors for CR engines are only good for about 100k miles and require replacement. No injector will last beyond 100k miles while keeping the set pop pressure. Be careful injector cleaners and fuel treatments can cause more problems. I've a long article about fuel additives. I will always suggest 2 Cycle Oil over any other product. I typically mix as 128:1 ratio and it would keep the injector lubricated and not taking as much wear. I would start with the power and grounds first. Being the entire system is dying out. TIPM could be a cause being the CANBus controls everything by digital messages for turning power on and off at the TIPM. Let verify the power is staying on for ll the systems. Then the next is to watch the crank sensor and see if the tachometer is getting wild or doing odd RPM's once the crank signal is gone then everything will shutdown.

Good Morning Gang! Mopar1973Man is up and getting built into my new way of life. OK! I'm going to attempt to return to my previous plans. Beast is getting a bit slobbery with a oil leak at the rear main seal. The GF and I agree that Thor needs to return to be put back to function. Mark just got his truck out of my shop and we are going to be shoving Thor in being its been dead for 2 years just about. I need Thor to bring some of the GF stuff back here to the house before winter really hits. Myself I';m going to move forward working on producing 3rd Gen articles off of the adventures of Thor failures. The GF wants to get involved and help in rebuilding this industry of Cummins Support and make it work for all of you. Yeah I'm under limitations that prevent me from going whole hog right now but I'll keep you all posted. Thor's first project is to retro fit a AirDog 150 on that truck then I'm going to sell the bumpers, flat bed and return this truck to factory bumpers and bed. Thor is way too heavy empty to even get good MPG nearly tipping the scale at 10k empty. As for the Titanium side of things., This will remain a part of my life from here on out. Why? I continue to get stellar comments about my appearance. More fun when you have nurses betting money on what I'll wear next. I'm still creating videos on TikTok and Titanium is growing in followers. Too many people here even locally look for me in makeup and hair most days and get bummed when it just normal me which is rare.

Hell yeah. Its time to see color put on the body...

Simple remove the alternator walk into a NAPA or similar and tell them you want it benchtested make sure you ask about having it tested for AC ripple. Then if you replace the alternator test the new one the same way before you leave the store.

No problem. Yeah do the W-T ground wire mod, then make sure your alternator passes a AC ripple test.

Yup just updated my previous post...

ECM requires a rebuild before anything else. When the Wait To Start doesn't light up the ECM is NOT booting up. It has internal errors that make it impossible to load up and not start. Auto Computer Specials. https://mopar1973man.com/vendor.htm/vendor/auto-computer-specialist-r5/?do=getLastComment&d=7&id=5

Well... Bigger turbos spool much slower. 109mm is going to be too big for sure. Heck most people have issues with spooling just a 71mm compressor on the street. One of the few reasons I kept the HX35W is the quickness to spool and the fact of my exhaust brake on the back of the turbo. I'm looking to upgrade even like 62/68/14 Turbo if possible but would require a full exhaust brake replacement too., Ouch!

Another update. Medically I'm healing slowly. Finally made it past my first cancer check and still going. No medical appts except for PT which I need to help ditch my spare tire. I need more core strength to prevent having hernia anytime soon. Still a risk with any heavy lifting. Tidbit that is funny that my makeup and Goth look now has nurses betting with money what I'm going to be wearing. Yeah it true I just was down getting resized from 1 inch stoma to 7/8 inch stoma and change the Rx. The nurse was overjoyed when I was there with my black and purple hair and makeup.

1/2 is more pressure stable than 3/8 inch line. Remember stock is 6mm ID smaller than 1/4 inch. Smaller line tend to have more pressure drop that larger lines.

Be aware the 3 piece could leak at the joints. This typically for most i suggest the factory manifold again. Cracking means someone abused the truck ran it hard and didn't monitor EGTs. Last year a replace a manifold be cause it shrunk 1/2 inch could be used because the owner came in for overheat but had no boost or EGT gauges and fried the exhaust manifold. The owner had no clue the boost was low EGTs where high enough to bury the gauge. Pyrometers save exhaust from cracking.

Personal opinion. Not fond of this pump. No pump is made to suck fluids long distances. All pumps are designed to push fuel not pull long distance. Then without a electric pump if you lose prime there is no way to start the truck. Most have to remove the belt and pump and spin the shaft with a drill. This is why aftermarket stock went into the fuel tank less distance to suck the fuel. Even AirDog and FASS both suggest close as possible to the fuel tank. Now DDRP pumps are junk too because of crappy plumbing and still the distance makes stress for the pumps. ~450k miles on my AirDog and replace 2 heads. Bonus is the fuel polishing because AirDog make many passes through the filter 3 micron then also kept factory filter as well and do 60k to 70k filter change. This is due to lower fuel temps <130°F typically.

Reverse. How about firing up a Cummins and driving 20 miles and still have little coolant temp because the engine doesn't make much heat even with 200°F thermostat from a 6.7L.

I lost my factory APPS to dead pedal back before 100k. I got my first Timbos years ago. Still the simple fact there is no electronics to fail. Back on my second APPS there was no after market parts that APPS was dealer only at the time costing 520. Yeah Timbos at 180 at the time was CHEAP.

Minimum Specs... Right out of Dodge FSM. 10 PSI at idle 30 PSI at 2,000 RPM Grab a test gauge and test the factory oil pressure gauge is software controlled just coolant temperatures can change the pressure on the oil side. Now another issue is old injectors that are popping too early and the advancement goes unnoticed most don't see or feel any changes. For every -10 bar in pressure is roughly a 1-degree advancement in timing. Suppose the injectors are down to 240 to 260 bar which is a 5 to 7 degree gain on timing that the ECM has zero control over. Now you heat soak the engine oil because of improper timing and typically most have engine oil temperature and coolant temperature running close together in value. I'm the odd duck where I run 320 bar (2 degrees retarded) popped injectors (150 HP) but now with the timing correction on the Quadzilla I managed to reduce oil temperatures by 30 to 35 degrees lower with coolant temperature in the 204°F to 210°F realm and engine oil temperatures are 168 to 175°F. As seen below. Transmission is engine oil temp. Be aware I'm running a 200°F 6.7L thermostat. Still run colder oil temps than most here.

Hua... Maybe consider upgrading to a Timbos APPS and skip the relocate. My last Timbos lasted like many years with no issues. Timbo is completely electronics free unit with all mechanical parts.

Be careful to be aware that the MAP sensor and oil pressure sensors can be interchanged for positions. The plugs are the same even. I just had a local gent ask me to look at his truck and the sensor he changed was the manifold pressure sensor. After showing the owner where the actual sensor was located he was thankful and was seriously worried that no oil came out of the hole. Yes, this just happened yesterday.

Talk to @dieselautopower they handle the Smarty Tunr to flash the ECM for that function. Then @Quadzilla Power handles the high idle switch so you can control the high idle.

Biggest thing is keeping a final ratio after the tires near 3.73 if possible. Oh make sure the steering gear box is NOT a quick ratio.

For sure not going to with 44 inch tires. Even with 37 inch these trucks suck for braking, suspension, and acceleration and MPG. Most foul the ratio and then have huge issues.

Already there and can compete with that currently. I'm already 500 HP and solid to tow anything I wish no issues (EGTs, etc.). Biggest thing for towing is make sure you in a 3.73 realm this will remove a ton of stress off the axles and transmission hence why I registered already for the maximum of 26,000 pound commercial plates. My problem is with my amount of power I can hitch up my 31 foot RV (8,500 pounds) and fry the tires while towing. Why I opted for the 245/75 R16 tires I can have the 3.69 ratio without the cost of axle swaps.

Many improvements to this network since this post. IPv6 and IPv4 addresses are available for all my network. WiFi access points include a firewalled Guest WiFi limited to 10Mbit down and 5 MBit up speeds and has zero access inside my network. WiFi range is enhanced being it covers 4 properties and cross the highway still have signal for broke down people. Within the network I can share my Printer to all internal users. Starlink is 200 MBit down and 50 Mbit up with current conditions. Changed my DNS server to Cloudflare giving more privacy. Enhanced WiFi priority so less lag hopefully for cellphone users. Going to be adding... Smaller 10 port switch down in the shop so I can add a few more cameras. Adding hard line RJ45 ports in select rooms. Currently, my server machine is going to relocate into the server cabinet and use use Reminia Remote Desktop which is easier to use than Windows versions. This way I can clear the second position of my deskop and not have a entire station choked with just a server machine that is holding desktop. My cameras record to the server automagically and over write older files. I've got a few weird issues currently where my cloud management of the network is goofy.

Running 3.69 final ratio after tires which is easy just drop to 245/75 R16 tire on 3.55 and close enough without huge cost of gear swap. Being I'm the MPG king with solid axle no CAD and no free spin kit I've past the 30 MPG mark by crossing the entire state of Washington on a 1/4 tank of fuel. Low rotational mass (smaller is better), good final ratio after tires (245/75 R16), good tuner with timing settings (Quadzilla) you can do the same without the huge cost. Let me know when you can top 30 MPG.