Mopar1973Man

I see it being great for leveled trucks but I don't see it lasting any longer than solid track bar.

Not all... just this piece was a Federal Mogul. Ive seen some that is Moog too, like the upgrade tie rods.

Apps sensor will always throw a code if out of range. But a bad apps won't make it buck. But excessive timing in the 1500 range and light throttle will.

Beautiful thing about Linux... PDF documents are automatically displayed no software required. Doing you a favor I downloaded it and then uploaded to this message for ya. 686356pdf.pdf

Replace the entire track bar about every 100k to 150k so. Why bother with changing the bushing just replace the entire track bar. By 100 to 150k miles I just replace it take only like 15 mintues. Just checked NAPA there is a option for $104... Then the premium I would guess is $209... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCG2724229

Try backing down your timing. Try starting out at 13 degrees in the 1,500 RPM band.

Weight is weight... Doesn't matter put it on the scale and weigh it out. Weigh is on everything ground, tires, suspension, frame etc.

Absolutely correct... 60 PSI all the way around will hold... using stock tire information (265's, 245's or 235's) 60 PSI / 80 PSI (max) = 0.75 x 3042 (capacity) = 2,281 pounds x 4 tires = 9,126 pounds. <- If all 4 tires inflated to 60 PSI. 55 PSI / 80 PSI (max) 0.6875 x 3042 (capacity) = 2,091 pounds x 4 tires = 8,364 pounds <- If all 4 tires inflated to 55 PSI. 50 PSI / 80 PSI (max) 0.625 x 3042 (capacity) = 1,901 pounds x 4 tires = 7,605 pounds <- If all 4 tires inflated to 50 PSI. Remember 2500 series has a max vehicle capacity of 8,800#

Injectors are getting weak but still rather good being your above 0% engine load yet. Like mine are even starting to slip a bit too. Nothing last forever, especially injectors. All the truck I've seen so far have 0% engine load and the idle speed is above 800 RPM. Those are wiped out. All the 3rd gen other I've looked at require ether or starting fluid to start or difficult to start and no smoke. Yup injectors are fired. Difference is 03 and up just better have close to $4,000 in your pocket. As for 24V somewhere around $300 to 400 to replace.

Spamming link is not welcomed... My personally suggestion is go with the truck with least amount of miles or the owner can prove he's changed the injectors before the sale of the truck or he's willing to drop price so you can replace injectors.

Why I went with a full AirDog. Prefilter before the pump. Then a 3um after the pump. Majority of the fuel returned to the tank at the AirDog so this mean I'm polishing my fuel before even the stock filter gets it. There is a 7um filter in there. No screens in my fuel tank just draw straw. My first screen is on the AirDog...

You links have been removed spamming isn't welcomed here.

@JAG1 you need to go out and weight the truck again with the camper in the bed. Get front axle, full weight and rear axle weight. This way everyone can figure against your current weight. With even my RV I know I'm right at the 8,800# on the truck. If I dug around a bit I can find that photo of me on the scales and axles weights even for the trailer.

423k miles and NEVER experienced any death wobble. I've witness several trucks doing it but never had my own truck do it ever!

Not a problem...

Actually the signature part was suppose to be given up for a link to your garage. As you'll see above (or below this post) my signature is a link to my 4 pages of mod in the garage. Reason why is 77% of the traffic here is mobile device and when you allow long signature they might have to pan down 2 screen loads worth of long signature to get to the next post. Not fair to mobile users. Being I see the same thing on my own phone.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHST641?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Alternators-Starters&campaign_id=6503920054&adgroup_id=73349362010&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkuP9BRCkARIsAKGLE8UfzATR-34_3v6aDotoU2ZMJm0_JvP_583YKLXHFxragovGA4gWJXMaAiBuEALw_wcB Here is the NAPA version I could most likely pick up for even less under my account discount.

Freight is slow now... I'm still waiting on my pedal assembly for the other 1996 Ford F-250 Powerstroke I'm working on too. Shipping is slower with people getting sick with COVID and lack of crews now to move packages. Heck I ordered a brand new LG dishwasher on Thursday it will be sometime in February before Home Depot has it in stock. Yeah I did a bit of digging even on my part the price differences between a NV4500 and NV5600 are insane. Still the NV4500 is cheap and more common for parts. You could upgrade the NV4500 input shaft to a NV5600 input shaft. Even with all I've done I've Never broke the input shaft. Never had a 5th gear nut issues either. Don't let that turn you away. As for bearing failure from lube never happened yet. Metal fatigue... Yup plenty of that. First was the mainshaft that broke at 3rd/4th gear. Had the OEM shaft replace with a Torque King Upgrade shaft. The 5th gear bottom was replace because the hard face was wore through. Then pilot bearing fell out of the flywheel on to the input shaft ate the input shaft bearing and the tip of the mainshaft. Which put stress on the 5th gear since the top gear was OE yet stress took the teeth off. Never had a oil failure yet. 423k miles and ticking... I would still hold on to the NV4500 and then take the driver side PTO cover off and install 1/8" NPT bung and install a trans temp gauge. With the amount of heat in Texas you would be a good candidate for the Mobil 50 SAE Trans Fluid. Basically its straight 90 weight gear lube. GL-4 rated synthetic. With the Texas heat you should stay away from thinner fluids. Still don't use any FAST coolers yet too. Winter time my trans temp stay pretty low mostly below 100°F in the winter. My typical summer trans temp floats 140 to 160°F without coolers. Even towing I rarely get above 180°F. Even in Arizona topped out at 200°F on a 7% grade in 110°F weather. Little warm for my liking but nothing dangerous. Got get past 230°F to be dangerous. Then when I upgrade from 265's (31.6" tires) to 245's (30.5" tires) it reduce stress on the transmission and driveline. Changed the final ratio from 3.55 to 3.69 This mod change the trans temps and made them cooler. Made more power towing on grades with less heat. At 66 MPH I'm a prefect 2,000 RPM.

They really don't go bad like the old P-pump overflow valves. The 24V used harden metals that typically they last the entire life of a injection pump. Like I said before its done part of the warranty. I see the tag wire tied to the bag notifying the installer to replace the overflow valve for warranty purpose and you must return the old valve with the pump. Again they really don't go bad...

So to bring this back to Swapping transmissions. Still in all just for @jlwelding I would look both way again at rebuild prices of NV5600 and the Nv4500 then look at the replacement cost of both for clutches.

Yeah that was a easy fix...

Overflow valves are replaced every injection pump replacement. REQUIRED for warranty of the VP44.

$88 for the set from NAPA... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP60110311?partTypeName=Air+Intake+Heater+Relay&keywordInput=grid+heater+solenoids

Hence why I'm suggestion to do the voltage drop and verify if it the wire, relays, fusible links going bad. Etc.