Mopar1973Man

I've got two Auto Trans 2nd Gen's in the yard right now. I'll go take a peak later on when the sun comes up.

All I'm using is a NAPA heater core nothing special. The aluminum style with the adjustable tubes. I'm only using a 190°F NAPA thermostat and no other mods to the cooling system. Like today I will remember to install my winter fronts. 160°F to 170°F out of the center vents. Running NAPA green anti-freeze mixed 50/50. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NRZNH9010015?partTypeName=Heater+Core NAPA ain't so bad when it cooking you out of the cab.

Might be heavier in weight total but more durable to road salt, and oxidizing agents that they spray on the highway. My stock aluminum mags were badly pitted and then cracked from all the heavy hauling I did. I swapped back to the early 2nd Gen factory steel wheels holding up much better and being the aluminum mag were 16 x 8 and the steel wheels are 16 x 7 they fit the 245's much better.

PCM is damaged. I've got a protection fuse mod to stop this issues. Still need to send the PCM in for repair. The blue wire should be +12V after crank signal is sensed. Then the green wire should be variable ground after crank signal sensed. My alternator shorted out and burned a hole right through the PCM's printed circuit board. @pepsi71oceanhad the same failure and his was repairable through @Auto Computer Specialist. The PCM master fuse is a 20A fuse. The problem is the circuit board can barely handle 5 to 7 amps before burning up. Hence the article was wrote up to stop the PCM damage. I'm running a 5A fuse and still going strong.

Change in the HVAC case layout.

Can't say that I have. It is strange it should throw a code if the circuit shorted or open.

Do you have a P1492 or P1493 codes?

If the shaft had to much play it would most likely be leaking.

B5 Biodiesel does not require 2 cycle oil. B2 Biodiesel has HFRR score better than 2 cycle oil.

Is the seal leaking around the shafts?

I've seen #1 and #3 of the top diagram being an issue with most of the trucks I deal with. Typically the plastic bushings and the plastic retainers to hold the shafts are worn out.

With my final ratio altered by the 245's I'm running. My tach hovers at 2k at most all speeds. I'm in of 4th gear (NV4500) by 25 MPH. At 66 MPH I'm a prefect 2k RPM's.

Back in my hypermling days I was pulling 600 to 700 miles a tank. My Max recorded MPG was 27.2 MPG hand math cruise set for 55 MPH that is top speed.

At least get back to 265/70 R17.

Glad to see everyone doing the smart thing regarding your own health. Be safe, wash your hands and wear a mask.

I'm concerned about COVID more to make sure the family stays safe. I'd really love it if it would just majorly snow on us. Giving a reason to just stay home.

Yeah I was in full speed ahead mode and then got to town and its slam on the brakes and rethink this through again. I'm going to finish my current jobs and most likely just hole up till we leave for Rainer, OR.

COVID UPDATE I'm going to starting limiting contact with people now. My buddy in town Steve Crump has just closed his shop and laid off his crew. Steve, his wife and kid all three and COVID positive. I heard from another client that there is another family both husband and wife both are COVID-19 positive. Soon as I got done at my clients place I called @Wet Vette and told her the news. I'm doing my utmost in trying to keep it out of my home being its this close now it time to limit my contact with others. It difficult with Eileen and having to do doctors appointments. You all should see me more around the website... Safer way to do business.

They still work awesome just if your in a heavy storm you going to stop and wipe them off once in awhile. Being where I live there is no real stopping at lights or stop signs to allow for heat to melts some off. My D2S projectors cast light up to full mile and at a 1/4 mile the arc upwards can engulf a 50 foot tree no problem. Good 20 to 50 feet off of both sides of the highway on a normal 2 lane.

The only problem is all the newer lighting is lower wattage and produces very little heat being the efficiency is so high there is little radiant heat to keeping frost or snow off the lens. Where old school halogen bulbs had enormous amount of radiant heat but low ~850 lumens. Now we have bulbs that take fraction of current and efficient LED or HID bulbs that produce low heat and more light at 2,000 to 4,000 lumens. Like my PIAA LEDs require a 1 AMP fuse. Little heat there.

I'd love to see it at about -20*F to -40*F to see if it holds up at all. My PIAA LED fog lights ($350) bury over easy. The My Morimoto D2S HID's ($750) will bury over at about -20*F in a snow storm. I'm pretty sure the 1996 Dodge will bury over quickly being there just average LED headlight bulbs ($70) and low heat production.

No mods done to my truck regarding the heater core. With a 190*F Thermostat I produce at least 160*F to 170*F temps from the center vents of the dash on a zero degree day. Never drilled out any fitting. Just clean the evaporator, double check your blend door, and just replace the heater core. If you want melt your face off hot jump from the 190*F to 200*F it will cook you out of the cab in less than 10 miles.

Again, COLD AIR hurts MPG hence why the MPG fooler was created.

I've seen a lot of this lately. Check the local NAPA for simple thing like seal or gasket maybe a thermostat no stock. But now head to RockAuto sure enough they have the part in stock yet. Like my last trip to Lewiston I was trying to get injector seals for Jacob truck and nothing in stock. We tried O'Rilley's and no problem they had it. Amazing how much stock is not there.

How about... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,wiper+&+washer,wiper+motor,8824