Mopar1973Man

@JAG1 you need to go out and weight the truck again with the camper in the bed. Get front axle, full weight and rear axle weight. This way everyone can figure against your current weight. With even my RV I know I'm right at the 8,800# on the truck. If I dug around a bit I can find that photo of me on the scales and axles weights even for the trailer.

423k miles and NEVER experienced any death wobble. I've witness several trucks doing it but never had my own truck do it ever!

Not a problem...

Actually the signature part was suppose to be given up for a link to your garage. As you'll see above (or below this post) my signature is a link to my 4 pages of mod in the garage. Reason why is 77% of the traffic here is mobile device and when you allow long signature they might have to pan down 2 screen loads worth of long signature to get to the next post. Not fair to mobile users. Being I see the same thing on my own phone.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHST641?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Alternators-Starters&campaign_id=6503920054&adgroup_id=73349362010&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkuP9BRCkARIsAKGLE8UfzATR-34_3v6aDotoU2ZMJm0_JvP_583YKLXHFxragovGA4gWJXMaAiBuEALw_wcB Here is the NAPA version I could most likely pick up for even less under my account discount.

Freight is slow now... I'm still waiting on my pedal assembly for the other 1996 Ford F-250 Powerstroke I'm working on too. Shipping is slower with people getting sick with COVID and lack of crews now to move packages. Heck I ordered a brand new LG dishwasher on Thursday it will be sometime in February before Home Depot has it in stock. Yeah I did a bit of digging even on my part the price differences between a NV4500 and NV5600 are insane. Still the NV4500 is cheap and more common for parts. You could upgrade the NV4500 input shaft to a NV5600 input shaft. Even with all I've done I've Never broke the input shaft. Never had a 5th gear nut issues either. Don't let that turn you away. As for bearing failure from lube never happened yet. Metal fatigue... Yup plenty of that. First was the mainshaft that broke at 3rd/4th gear. Had the OEM shaft replace with a Torque King Upgrade shaft. The 5th gear bottom was replace because the hard face was wore through. Then pilot bearing fell out of the flywheel on to the input shaft ate the input shaft bearing and the tip of the mainshaft. Which put stress on the 5th gear since the top gear was OE yet stress took the teeth off. Never had a oil failure yet. 423k miles and ticking... I would still hold on to the NV4500 and then take the driver side PTO cover off and install 1/8" NPT bung and install a trans temp gauge. With the amount of heat in Texas you would be a good candidate for the Mobil 50 SAE Trans Fluid. Basically its straight 90 weight gear lube. GL-4 rated synthetic. With the Texas heat you should stay away from thinner fluids. Still don't use any FAST coolers yet too. Winter time my trans temp stay pretty low mostly below 100°F in the winter. My typical summer trans temp floats 140 to 160°F without coolers. Even towing I rarely get above 180°F. Even in Arizona topped out at 200°F on a 7% grade in 110°F weather. Little warm for my liking but nothing dangerous. Got get past 230°F to be dangerous. Then when I upgrade from 265's (31.6" tires) to 245's (30.5" tires) it reduce stress on the transmission and driveline. Changed the final ratio from 3.55 to 3.69 This mod change the trans temps and made them cooler. Made more power towing on grades with less heat. At 66 MPH I'm a prefect 2,000 RPM.

They really don't go bad like the old P-pump overflow valves. The 24V used harden metals that typically they last the entire life of a injection pump. Like I said before its done part of the warranty. I see the tag wire tied to the bag notifying the installer to replace the overflow valve for warranty purpose and you must return the old valve with the pump. Again they really don't go bad...

So to bring this back to Swapping transmissions. Still in all just for @jlwelding I would look both way again at rebuild prices of NV5600 and the Nv4500 then look at the replacement cost of both for clutches.

Yeah that was a easy fix...

Overflow valves are replaced every injection pump replacement. REQUIRED for warranty of the VP44.

$88 for the set from NAPA... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP60110311?partTypeName=Air+Intake+Heater+Relay&keywordInput=grid+heater+solenoids

Hence why I'm suggestion to do the voltage drop and verify if it the wire, relays, fusible links going bad. Etc.

Need to watch your IAT temperature. As you increase the RPM the IAT typically falls off so the ECM holds the grid heater on longer. Hence why I normally don't high idle my truck I start let it idle maybe 30 to 60 second to sling oil on everything. I get rolling once you hit 20 to 25 MPH the grid heaters should be forced OFF!

Double check the bearings quick if need a rebuild kit is super cheap. HX35W is a stock turbo typically a (54/60/12).

Sure was a treat for me to do it for 12 hours and watch. After watching that how I knew he was a EXCELLENT transmission builder. Jon is extremely fussy about everything being CLEAN. Even his work area and table is keep spotlless during assembly. The transmission is re-cleaned again after he is completed. Then going through all the steps of testing and making sure everything is adjusted correctly. I know most people can't make that kind of trip, I would bet my own name on @Dynamic to be the better built for sure. Too many extras he puts into the design for longevity and making it hold the power.

Didn't even last 1,000 miles. Power was not the cause. Still got the same power and same brass syncro no issues. AH64ID will say my fluid is the cause of the failure. Nope. Not at all Again I tried to change to something different and like Abe told me if I don't choice from his list of fluids the warranty would be void at that point. I've had really good service from the Mobil 50 trans fluid it is thicker but it clings to the bearing and gears much better than the factory fluid that was watery and thin. Still its a quality synthetic and its is GL-4 rated. Now when you study guys that do true racing and using higher power than me the stock or factory fluids have to be changed out for thicker fluids for protection. Thinner fluids do promote better shift quality but thicker actually clings to gears and bearing much better under heat. The only thing that is bad is come winter my transmission temp falls to near 100*F or lower most days so the fluid is thick, hence why I don't want FAST coolers it would make things much worse. Still zero shifting issues at even -20*F to -30*F I've seen last winter. Then flip to 110 to 130*F in Arizona trans temp was still below 200*F easy even pulling my RV on a 7% grade in Arizona heat. The problem is Autozone is is either a trip to Lewiston or Boise (whole day lost - 6 hours driving), O'Rilley's again a trip to Lewiston or Boise (whole day lost 6 hours driving), etc. Again the only local part store I've got is NAPA on in McCall is 70 miles round trip or to Concil, ID which is 104 mile round trip. I've also got a delivery to the house on Tuesdays I just gotta call Kevin in Council and it on my door step in the morning on Tuesday. All shops up here typically use 99% NAPA parts there is nothing else. Just like the Chevron station in Town yup, NAPA only. How do I know this so well. I just left for Lewiston, Idaho yesterday for food shopping and by the time I got done with everything and got home its 8pm. Mostly food but I did stop and get a jug of Synthetic oil (5w-20) for Eileen's car and a NAPA filter. Did not really save much on the parts but since I was in town why not get it. (Outside my network - different owner) My account with NAPA (Council - McCall) I get some pretty good discounts. I bought 4 gallons of standard green anti-freeze (NAPA) for $5.99 a gallon. Even done a coolant flush on a 6.7L not to long ago and it requires Dexcool I got is for $8.99 a gallon. My discounts are past on to me by the amount of parts I buy per month. More parts, better discounts. I've done it a few times buy my oil for my truck and get the oil filter for free. Here is current public price... For 3 gallons would of been $56.97 before taxes. Then what I paid for it... $8.99 a gallon for $26.97 before taxes! Saving of $30.00 even! Absolutely nothing wrong with NAPA goods... For me, better prices!

Yeah the problem is all the extras Jon does to a transmission is great upgrades. The extra holes he drills for cooling oil for the clutches. How he upgrades a 46RE into 47RE. Yup seen that too... Not in a video anywhere. It would be great if Jon @Dynamic did a video of his builds too. Explain how to test your valve body in the transmission with air. Nope not in that video either. I understand some builders have tricks they don't want to give away either.

Let me look into that I might be able to fix that quickly. Should be working now.

Ok like NAPA so where do I buy parts at? Hmmm...? No other part stores around. No autozone, no pep boys, no o'rilley's, etc. Just NAPA. Again like the hosting company shgould I just pack up and move because they still can't get a clean IP address? We can't keep running and bad mouthing everything because of issues. If I did that I would be screwed without apart store to even get parts. But i undserstand how to get thing figured out and dealt with even NAPA. I've gone as far as being credit for lost time before because of faulty parts. But I can't just say no NAPA because there is nothing else up here. Both McCall and Council are owned by the same person so take your pick you still dealing with the same store. So shoulld I say no more blue top steering because I got a bad unit with nick in the output shaft and it leaked twice? Should I say no more ISSPro gauges because my pyrometer burned up backk in 2016? Should turn by back on AirDog 150 because it didn't hold up as long as suppose too? Crap happens... I deal with and move on in a proper manner. Being choices are limted for me I've got to keep what I got going... I do the next bestt thing and figure out why parts fail... Hence why like ball joints are now over 200k miles old. Brake pads lasted over 200k miles (economy NAPA). Hmmm... How about some of the research on HFRRand fuels... Must be doing something right to still have my truck after 423k miles still rolling... Haven't blown an engine either... Still making more power than 5th gen...

Yeah, so I had a bad batch of syncros, this batch is good. First failure - Mainshaft broke 3rd and 4th gear. Kept all carbon fiber... Second failure - Pilot bearing fell out f the flywheel (Southbend CON OFE) and ruined the input shaft, main shaft, and ate 5th gear. Ditch carbon fiber went to brass. After that second repair, I did have two sets of bad syncros. First set syncros of defective brass syncros (3rd and 4th) Second set syncros of defective carbon syncro (2nd gear) Now After getting a new set of syncro from a different supplier problem is gone. This is rare but does happen. Still running. On the current set smooth as butter shift yet. Still would use then being Abe has backed me every time there was an issue. Yeah it sucks to pull it out and send it back in. But he's always stood behind his work and always made it right again. So just because of a defective parts you would turn away... Even I (myself) make mistakes and just to show this I did a thermostat for Jacob (Eileens son) typical job. New thermostat and gasket (square cut o-ring). Installed and let him run it and notice steam one even went back out with him clean it all up and installed and again. Ran to town and lost coolant again still leaking. After a 3rd time pulling it apart I found the thermostat housing was slightly bent preventing a good seal. A couple of hits with a small hammer and fix it now sealed. So should Jacob just never get service from me again because I (myself) since I had it leak twice? Sometimes you have to have failures to find the problem that your fighting. Maybe I should ditch my hosting company for the very same reason...? Still after 3 new IP addresses you are not able to get email from the M73M.com. Bad hosting company...? Or do we just hang in there and fix the problem. Hmm? Just because a few bad experiences does mean the (pick your place) is bad company, shop, store, person, etc.

Could be the cables are corroded too. Do voltage drop test and see if either #1 or #2 leads are failing.

You should stand beside @Dynamic and watch him tear down a transmission and then build it all back up to your specs in one day. Taking great care to tweak and test everything as he is building. Way better experience. Like his extra cooling for the clutch packs. Won't find in that video. How he does the valve body mods isn't there.

Might be true but you'll find out if you have them tested at 100k to 150k they are already below 293 bar. Even my stock injectors had 150k miles on them. When I sent them to DAOP for testing failed badly at 250 to 260 bar. Yup they still run fine MPG was OK 18 to 19 MPG but the pop pressure was off for sure. Smoke was a bit more common to see but not bad. I just had another guy call me with a meltdown engine that was knocking. He attempted to run CR injectors to and now the piston is BANG BANG BANG as the engine is running. Just because it still runs good doesn't mean it a good idea to keep running on known wore out parts. I even told him the same thing... 100k to 150k get them changed. Got another just down the road from me it won't start unless a shot of ether is used. But runs fine no problems. Don't push your luck with 24V injectors they are so cheap to get and easy to do why?

Weller truck has been good to me.Always been good price between $1,500 to $1,800 for a full rebuild and any replacement parts. Weller Truck - Dallas 3113 Skyway Circle N Irving, TX 75038-3526 (972) 258-0460 Who I use... Weller Truck - Boise 8484 West Victory Rd Boise, ID 83709-4169 (208) 331-1061