Mopar1973Man

Same here Oregon guys have issues at times. I would only get bio in the summer.

Whew... Long day but a got a steering box for my truck from Russ... Only thing that sucks is the box had water inside. I've got to flush the system in the morning. Vacuum pump is rebuilt and no more oil leaks from either the steering box (barrowed) and the vacuum pump which i nicked the seal installing the new power steering pump. Then since I gotta get power steering fluid to flush I'll deal with the wrong thermostat in the morning.

Trying to get ahead of the pile. Been busy here... Starting on the left... Red Dodge Ram needs a transmission service My Dodge I've got to do a vacuum pump seal I nicked the shaft seal. Blue Dodge I'm waiting for a thermostat to come from NAPA. Right Side... 2006 Dodge I just acquired for small price. Needs a clutch and a set of injectors. Blue Ford 7.3L needs injectors. My lil' 1996 Dodge1/2 ton is operational...

In our case the higher flash point is a good thing. Being the oil isn't used for the piston lubrication most of the video doesn't mean much. Being the purpose for use is to lube a injection pump and injectors BEFORE the fuel is even spray or burned in the cylinder. WAY different outlook being the parts of the piston are all lubed with engine oil. As for the 2 cycle oil in the pumps and injectors see much lower temperatures. Like for example my fuel temp is typically well below 140°F so its still oil and still lubing in the injection pump. Also take note we use much less oil since diesel is a oil in itself. 1989 to 2002 Dodge Ram suggest is 128:1 ratio (one ounce to one gallon of fuel) 2003 and up Dodge / Ram suggested is 200:1 ratio(just about 1/2 ounce to 1 gallon of fuel) Way different being we are not mixing at 50:1 or 40:1 like gasoline. I look at it this way today's diesel (petroleum) is typically 520 HFRR scored. Bosch requires <460 HFRR to meet Bosch's lubricity requirements.

Absolutely correct. Better gains on MPG once you get the timing dialed in on the Quadzilla and making better power with way less smoke. Well more smoke from the tires as they tend to spin from the extra power.

Just shows how other countries handle the COVID crisis. Far East no problem everyone continues on and has events and sports. America, lets fine you for not wearing a mask, make sure to stay away from friends or family. Let's close down everything and make it tougher on people. While all this is happening let raise the prices on food, entertainment services (hulu, etc), internet providers, cellphones providers etc.

All I can say after 85k miles of WalMart SuperTech my stock injectors were clean! Even at 350k miles my head is clean no carbon or ash build up. Even after 350k miles the pistons are clean too. Now let me grab some photos when I pull @Jthor injectors from his 7.3L Ford and we will see possible ash build up and carbon build up.

Yup not the first time I've seen that...

Totally true.

I'm getting tired of people say because of COVID we are delayed shipping, repairing, supplying, increasing prices (insert what fits or multiple). I could of drove to North Dakota had it serviced and then drove home in less time. Then your sitting here and watching TV and America everyone is shut down. Now watch Japanese figure skating the stands are full and no social distancing.

Yes only if the IAT falls below 80°F being the ECM is programmed to add another +3° to +4°of timing on cold air. Hence why the Mopar1973Man MPG Fooler fools to 143°F and MPG is gained back. Cold air hurts MPG's. How to check. Just turn the key to on and check the ECT and IAT temps at key on. If the ECT and IAT are the same then the sensor is fine. During this test don't use a block heater it will skew the results. Typically the IAT and ECT will be the same. If this checks out you just need more heat under the hood and keep the IAT warmer. Hence why I run winter fronts and BHAF can enjoy more under the hood warmth.

Like myself I had 18 of the 24 guide replaced. Now I'm kicking myself for not telling them to replace ALL 24 guides because now the the 6 guides are leaking a bit now again. Most likely have blew out the valve seals too to some point being my startup smoke is back after about 80k miles. I lose about 1 quart in about 7k miles now. Might have a few weeping leaks but nothing to really make a puddle now. New crank seal and re-sealed the gear case.

Even my LEDs in my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 are great too. The biggest thing that makes a good cut of is a good reflector. Being the 1996 Dodge had a cracked lens and filling with water hence why I replaced my headlight housings. I'll admit the housing I've got are OK but I would not say they are great the pattern is good but too much scattered light personally. Now HID's still win the battle being it covers 5 times as much ground on high beam vs. the LED's. So my 1996 Dodge with LEDs only cover the standard area and not much more. HID in the 2002 Dodge cover way more ditch area on both sides and a total of 50 feet vertical at 1/2 mile. LEDs don't even come close. Now comparing both above with hazed lens and halogen. Still day and night difference. Halogen bulbs are just a mere 860 lumens roughly. The LEDs I got are 2,000 per blub. Then the HID bulbs are 4,000 a bulb.

Reman's for 2003 Dodge Ram and 2004 Dodge Ram... New is even more. I need two sets or 12 injectors. Heck even poor @Jthor isn't happy with Ford 7.3L injector prices at $1,200 a set of eight. As for my truck being down I've found a temporary steering box from Russ (my landlord at my other shop). He's willing to let me got snag it. I'm going to go grab it so I can drive my truck again. the 1996 Dodge is eating me out of house and home at 14 MPG. At least with the Cummins I get better MPG's. Soon as the sun comes up I'm gone and going to snag that steering box. I can't wait another 8 to 9 days for my steering box from Blue Top to return in the mail.

Yup... Already been warned by the local mail lady, UPS drive and the Local FedEx gal. Going to get worse and slower.

Even UPS and FedEx are getting bottle necked here too. Not much better about getting stuf here either. Stuff we pick up off of Amazon like my latex gloves or the alcohol (rubbing 100% medical grade) still like weeks to get stuff in. 7 days to get get my screen protector from California to Idaho from UPS. Heck I could of drove there and back quicker! Only takes me a bit over 18 hours from Home to Mohave Valley, AZ. Makes me wanna fix my truck and go do hotshot work. I can drive like the wind and for long hours easy. Back to reality I need a steering box that is taking a vacation in the postal system regardless if is USPS, UPS or FedEx.

Just to do a flush job on my truck I use up to if not more than a half gallon to 3/4 of gallon. The reservoir on my truck holds a full quart just about on its own. If the calipers are empty and compressed back in then you have to fill all the voids again with fluid. If the calipers are compressed in again then the old fluid is forced out and you start filling with new fluid.

Man it just isn't getting better. My steering box I mailed out in a Flat Rate USPS box should of taken only 2 days to go from here to North Dakota. Nope! I just called Ryan at Blue Top and verified on the 30th that he got it. It took a total of EIGHT yes! EIGHT DAYS to go from Idaho sit in Seattle WA for nearly 5 days then finally at the last second got to Ryan. Now it going to be another 8 days to get back. I've opted to ask Russ my landlord of the other shop if I could barrow a steering box so I can get my truck to move. That would allow me to start another job needing to do a trans fluid change, filter, governor pressure solenoid, governor pressure sensor, adjust the bands, etc. But I'm not going to lay in the snow and mud to do it. Hell no. I just landed to injector jobs both Common Rail truck both will not start or run any longer. both trucks have over 200k+ miles on the stock injectors. One does start but takes a pretty good hit of ether to fire up. Injectors are leaking so bad it can't make rail pressure any longer. Now I've got to call good ol' DAP and get to sets of injectors coming but in the same token I want the two truck owners to pre-pay for the injectors. I'm not going to pull $5.5k out of my pocket. Then I get the long wait of getting parts from Utah which typically is 2 days to here. I've got return customer the VW Passat needs more goodies as well I gotta find a cam sensor, set of spark plugs, and oil change for that beast. Again call around and see whos got the better price and who can get it here like right now. Not months from now. As for my previous post. The pedal assembly on the 7.3L Ford Powerstroke turn out absolutely stellar. I installed the pedal assembly and was shock how good and tight the pedals feel and the clutch is smooth to operated now. Even the owner that got health issues can easily start his truck and drive it. Zerk fitting to lube the pedal shaft and all bronze bushing not plastic! The company that did this work is Alter Ego Motorcycles down in Arizonia. Super nice gent and he's will to do any machine work for me now. Another one in my phone list for future needs.

What the error is complaining about is there is no communication to that module. That means the CANBus connection is lost and you'll need a wire map and find the pair of wire going to the module and testing to see if the wires are good and seeing signal. It's possible to have a module shorted out and failed too. You might give Module Masters a call in Moscow, Idaho and see if they handle these modules if so maybe they would know the diagnostics for the code. ModuleMaster Electronics manufacturer in Moscow, Idaho Address: 2006 S Main St, Moscow, ID 83843 Phone: (208) 892-0764

Is the brake proportioning valve moving the pin in and out with pedal pressure? Is it dividing up pressure properly?

Need to swap back to all the 1999 Electronics to make it work. Fly by wire was later series function. So both the ECM and PCM need to be 2002. More on the swap.

I just barrows Bob Wagners personal unit and ran it for a day and mailed it back. Back then I had the Edge Comp and that was too much power for stock clutch. So back the box and sent it back. Still got my high idle enabled yet.

16.5 to17 is long term idle tap the throttle it will drop to 12.86 typically. This is normal. Being the Quad CanBus is unplugged it something else like VP44 to ECM. CanBus is the data line Quad uses so if it unhooked and screwed up yet the the Quad is not to blame. You gave Vp44 or ECM problem.

I've gone from dry to fully load on my truck just using the mayo jar. I've rebuilt my calipers left the lines open drained the system. Now hook up all calipers and bleed. Front are independent from the ABS pump. So if you can squeeze the pedal to the floor you've got air in the system.

Agreed. My wheel joint required 100 ton press. Then ballpoint required exploding one before figuring out a trick. Even my shock required 4 foot cheater bar. Nothing comes off easy.