Mopar1973Man

What size injectors are you running? What size turbo do you have now? What size tires are you running? What axle gears do you have? What transmission do you have? Why the questions... We need to know how big the injectors are so we know how much fuel your spraying in the cylinders. Then What turbo do you have to support the amount of fuel your spraying in the hole. If very possible to have big injectors but stock turbo and be too smokey. Tires size and gearing has HUGE impact in performance. This is one reason I dropped from stock 265's to stock 245's. This dropped my final ratio from 3.55 to 3.69 placing my power to the ground and dropped the engine load about 5% to 8% versus stock 265's. Better economy and way less smoke. Transmission type also matters because the amount of retard a manual requires where a auto can hold higher RPM's through a shift and not require much retarding. Goes much deeper too... If your final ratio is lower then 3.42 (285/75 R16) your going to either need to change tires or gears. There is no tuner that will clean up the smoke and high EGT's created by improper gearing. Optimal final gearing is 3.55 to 3.73. Anything lower than 3.42 is going to require regearing and/or tire swap. What pop pressure are injectors set at. This affect timing... Like I increased to 320 bar for cleaner spray loss a bit of flow. But less smoke. This also make my injectors RETARDED! Catane of the fuel local to you. Higher cetane has less BTU's but requires retarding of the timing being high cetane fires easier and doesn't require a lot of advanced timing to make it fire. If its too advanced you could make negative torque in other words the pistons travelling up to TDC but the diesel fuel lit off too early and now is pushing backward on the piston as it still coming to TDC. Once it breaks over TDC then it makes power. (Over advancement). Remember lower the cetane the higher the BTU energy! Like I'm set up at 66 MPH I'm a perfect 2,000 RPM average EGT's on flat ground is 550°F then at 82 MPH i'm running 2,500 RPM's this is interstate travel. I'm only up to 700°F EGT's but still able to reach my cruise timing below 25% on my tune even at 82 MPH and 2,500 RPM. No problem.

That is correct... The PCM is the primary computer with the most information. It holds all the info about the truck and options. The ECM is a secondary computer and relies the PCM for complete info. The PCM is the starter of the CCD Network and the instrument cluster is the Bias Voltage module to get the CCD bus set up. Without the PCM there is no way to tell the ECM that road speed is over 20 MPH turn off the grid heaters. Again like the ASD relay that shuts down the engine if way out of range. That is also controlled by the PCM. Keep in mind the Cummins ECM is NOT OBDII compliant. Look up PID 1C and check out what it reports. Hex 05 which states the ECM is not OBDII compliant. Weird but true.

You cannot free rev (neutral) a Quadzilla tuner there isn't any way to free rev the engine without it backfiring. If you want to free rev the engine turn the Quadzilla to level ZERO first. Fuel pressure gauge is taking a huge beating in the video it will eat the gears in the gauge soon if left the way it is.

When I upgraded stereos the adapter plug does not have a use for the panel lighting on most stereos so I ran with the dimmer lead to my gauges and other ting needing panel lighting off the headlights.

Some times people miss the fact we have all the part books here on the site. Page opened to the exact part number... https://mopar1973man.com/external-media/pdf/2002Ramparts.pdf#view=FitB&page=323

I love the small education on UK taxation. Interesting to say the least. Kind of different for sure. Like If I buy injectors or injection pump from DAP I get it at a MUCH lower price than public. Allowing my to mark up product so I can make a profit off the product. As a I sell product I have to track where its sold. I'm responsible for any sales in Idaho hence where my nexus (place of business) is location. Now I have to mark up 6% tax on all products sold in Idaho. All other 49 states in the union get products sale tax free. Then when I sell over seas then the taxes state off the price I sold it to you for so VAT of 20% would be placed against it as it enter UK.

I've been talking about getting the RV repaired from last year wind event coming home from Arizona. Right now its super muddy here so the RV is stuck in the back yard till the ground dries out again.

Just comparing live data & Quadzilla data vs. Actual boost gauge. @Frog This is why you might report strange voltage from the APPS sensor. Again math issues of the data given to the live data tool and raw data is given.

Factory amp isn't very good quality and mounted to the front speakers.

Here you go gang... I got hired by Riggins City to fix their ambulance. The fuel lines between the fuel filter on the frame to the first connectors have an issue with leaking fuel. Last fire call I went on the EMT's handled the passengers in the vehicles and hauled to Grangeville ID. Needless to say the ambulance left a puddle of diesel in the ER bay. The fuel lines are expensive $250... Ugh! But you can see the residue on the frame and diff... This is the only fuel plumbing in this area and no part store carries this part.

Very impressive videos. Congrats to you making improvement in getting it down the track.

No different when I do a WOT run to 100 MPH the Quadzilla report my MAX boost at 69 PSI while I watch the boost gauge (ISSPro EV2) only show 49 PSI. Then watching the live data on the MAP sensor it goes up to 37.7 PSIa displayed but that was way back at like 12 PSI of boost. Again the math to show the sensor correctly is not present in the live data tool. Then any accuracy is lost above about 25 PSI. Everything above that is a gamble. The only thing that is dead on accurate is my ISSPro EV2 gauge.

Wait till you see 45 to 50 PSI of boost. Just about 35 PSI of boost any tires typically give in to the massive torque I make. I've typically run the Level 3 CANBus fuel only for daily driving. Limits me to about 35 PSI or a bit lower.

If you looking for more bass you going to have to consider getting like rear speakers like a couple of 8" bass speakers in boxes.

Ahhh... That's nothing... Wild Turkey Mountain Lion / Cougar Bobcats Turkey Vulture Black and Brown Bear Raccoon Fox Elk Deer Badger Porcupine Yup I've got plenty walking through my yard at all hours. Really spooky to get home and walking in the dark to the back side man door to open the garage. Then to have a buck snort snot all over you and turn and just barely see the outline of a fair sized buck backing off. Hence why my daily wear includes a belt with my multitool and my Maglite LED flash light. Way too many time have animals closer to me than I thought in the dark.

Now with what I know I can just barely get down as low as 1,200 RPM but still bucking. Its the cruise timing kicking back in and raising my timing another +4° on top of the 13° on the 1,500 RPM band giving about 16° rolling along 30 MPH in 4th gear. This is Council, ID speed limit through town I've either got to drop another gear go through twon at nearly 2,400 RPM up shift up and drop 1,300 RPM and buck the entire way through. I think the cutoff of the Quad is 1,100 RPM then if flip back to ECM control. I would love to see a cruise timing cancel point of lower RPM's s to stop the bucking problem. @Quadzilla Power

Just trying to catch up with EU terms like MOT and VAT tax. MOT (Ministry of Transport) which does all the vehicle inspection emission testing. Then VAT (Value Added Tax) tax is well rather interesting say the least being everything get taxed along the way of production. Compared to sales taxes in the state only the consumer pays the sales tax on the final product. Compared to what I remember of California before I left in 1990. MOT and California Emission testing very similar in design there is other states here that have to have vehicle inspection for operation (lights, brakes, suspension, etc.)

Idaho is a conceal carry state without a permit. Typically my 9mm handgun is with me for long trips to bigger cities. My sixth sense usually will warn me to move on if things are going bad or I don't belong there. I do like most deer stand still a moment watch and understand the danger then the bolt in a direction of safety.

Depends on the fuse holder. I used a 150A circuit breaker off of Amazon and zero issues. Now my old shop landlord had a circuit breaker which he burned up two. the proceeded to blow two fuses on the alternator. This was due to batteries being weak. This is not the exact one I got. But there is a link... https://www.amazon.com/Tocas-Circuit-Breaker-Manual-Waterproof/dp/B01F76VJ3I/ https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-Fuse-Holder-2pcs-Fuses/dp/B079ZJY92Z/

Like myself I'm still a 7 x 0.010 DAP injector VCO popped at 320 and nearly zero smoke. Initial stomp of the throttle its will smoke some but clears quickly. I just had @Jthor driving my truck home as I followed with a customers vehicle. Still more than enough power to spin the tires loose on dry pavement.

Never swap shaft keys! They are calibrated for that stamped number key on the body.

When you have Idaho Gov't tallking about pulling out all the dams (power generators too!) on the Snake River to protect fish... We will be fair below needed power if it actually goes through...

Amazon or eBay... I bought my last set of 150A fuses for a customer right off Amazon for like $18...

Ummm there isn't enough to lube my truck. Damn democrats don't have enough blubber for making lube... Boy they are full of bullchit and still stinks.

All the other timing settings must be set for ZERO on the main page then you can adjust the max timing to the plus amount over stock. Ive never really tried it. I should though... As for Canbus it remains the same.