Mopar1973Man

Only if the fuel temperature is getting out of control. I would move out of the fuel basket...

Ok. To check the field lead. You need to start the truck and measure the voltage on the blue wire is there +12V? If not the PCM is burned up. Now on the green wire its a "ground" so test the same way using the DVM and it should show -12V or +12V depending on the probe usage. Green side typically will not cause damage but if the blue wire has ZERO volts then the PCM burned up. As for the charge stud. That should pass through a 150A circuit breaker or 150A fuse or even stock is 140A fuse. If the fuse is blown or circuit breaker tripped then reset and see if it repeats. If it does you batteries might not be up to the task or possibly cables. Check both batteries while charging and see if the voltage is EXACTLY the same if not the bridge cable on the radiator is shot possible. Digging a bit deeper if the field lead has power both blue and green working then it could be the armature brushes and slip rings. If there is no power reaching the armature it will never start to charge. You might be better having your alternator bench tested.

I know the feeling...

Exactly... This is why I don't have the gelling issues like others, plus remember the fuel heater is in the circuit yet too so the fuel is warmed supplying and leaving the engine eventually it does warm the tank up. Compared to the FASS 150 that left here with the filter hanging in front of the rear tire and in the damage path of slung snow and other road debris.

Take a pick? I've got an 180F, 190F and 200F thermostats. Why try tune around cold that much I can just jump to the 200F thermostat. Gain the heat for both fuel and coolant that way.

Hopefully not for 20 years if taken care properly. First batch failed at 13 years being I wasn't charging the first batch right and then allowed them to discharge too deep and then a few cell also got ran low on electrolyte. Now I'm check monthly for electrolyte levels, monthly equalize charging, and then shut the city power off and load test them. I should be able to run the hour silent for at least 8 to 12 hours with no external charging (no solar, no hydro, no generator). Already got 11 years on this set of batteries and still powering 24 hours a day and 7 days a week.

Sorry to hear that but that's why I'm such a stickler for the battery stuff when you figure the eight batteries power my house cost $4,800 last time I replace them I really don't want to damage those batteries because even one damage battery I've got to replace all eight battery at a much high price than what I paid for the last batch. Same with the truck I try to stay after it as well but my last batch I've ran them dead 3 times every time a batter drops below about 10.5 to 11.0 it causes damage to the battery and equalizing most likely will not fix.

Just replace the grid heater if the power studs are damaged. Don't mess around with something like that. Grid heater are fairly cheap.

Yes it is... Skid plate needs to be loosen and hang to change the filters. The skid plate is guarding the filter. I can still reach behind the AirDog 150 and check the fluid level in the transfer case. There is much less cold wind blowing on the filters fuel stay warmer. Then I've upgrade since that photo and ran all my fuel line inside the frame to keep the fuel lines shielded from extreme heat and extreme cold.

This is bad... Basically all you done is shorten the life of that new battery to the the level of the old battery you left in the system. Great way to take a 800 CCA battery and reduce it instantly to the same level of the other battery. Hence you ONLY replace batteries in PAIRS. If they only have one then go to another store and buy a pair at the same time.

Contact with the head it will absorb the heat. Lots of people have delete there stock filters and just running the FASS 150. Majority of these local are having gelling and freeze up issues. Thew ones that follow my suggestion and kept the stock filter basket and did the big line kit. Reduces the gelling issues. Then getting the filter and pump assembly moved out of the damage path of the front tires and not hang down in the cold wind now the fuel temps will rise. Remember mine has been hanging behind my transfer case for YEARS and to this day 428k miles later I've never had one gell up or freeze up of fuel even while operating at -30*F to -40*F winter. Since 2006 this AirDog 150 has been hanging in this position till today and never had one issue with cold fuels. Ever! - Never had fuel gel or freeze up.

The only thing that IAT does... Temperature below +80*F is going to add +3 to +4 degrees of extra timing. Warmer air does burn better and easier. I make up for that in my Quadzilla tunes so I don't really care about the IAT temps because I can adjust for my weather as needed. I can just watch the engine load vs. temperatures (coolant, oil and IAT) I make adjustments to handle the changes in weather. Again even this I can adjust my tune for. You can advance timing more and give more pre-heat time for cold fuels. Just adding a few degree give that much longer in the cylinder to heat the fuel, turn to vapor and go BANG on time. Why re-invent the wheel but actually take a stab at tuning properly and over come all the weakness. Yeah super cold fuel doesn't burn well in a cold cylinder with cold air running in. Again since I kept my fuel filter housing and fuel heater its a mere few minutes of warm up rolling down the highway and the IAT and Fuel temp running side by side. This why I'm not even worried about fuel temps being low because the stock fuel filter housing absorbs heat from the cooant passage in the head hence why my IAT and fuel temp are typically the same. Now for those that deleted the fuel filter housing now those people have issues with cold fuel because they delete there fuel heater and being able to absorb heat from the manifold. That 1/2" pipe plug near the IAT is a Coolant passage.

Internally in the heater there is a temp switch. There is no external control. There is a power relay in the PDC. All done inside the fuel filter housing.

I'm not worried about the up and down movement. Its the side to side movement I worry about being once that happened now the camber is being lost. Up and down isn't going to change geometry much but if it can change the camber angle then it needs to be addressed. Like my truck has vertical movement in the ball joints but the alignment is spot on and tires are wearing flat. Why dig in and change ball joint because it sliding up and down the upper ball joint which is a straight shaft. Where the bottom is a actual ball joint. As long as neither ball joint has the ability to lean inwards (negative or positive camber) there is no need to change.

CANBus Fuel is the fuel that the ECM plus the value of the Quadzilla. So if you set 100% this is true stock fuel. Everything above 100% is added fuel plus what the ECM is commanding. Anything below 100% is cut below ECM rate. So for defuel curve to keep smoke at bay you would set up like I've got 80% to 100% between 0 to 5 PSI of boost. Then above 15 PSI I climb above 100% for added power where I want it at. Now wire tap I don't dump in low PSI numbers. I wait till I'm climbing on the CANBus above 100% and then add it in buy then the turbo is spun up and will accept the fuel without much change in smoke. Wire tap shouldn't be used below about 5 PSI not good for launch power. Typically turns out to be a smokey mess for larger injectors. Wire tap is defined by the Wiretap setting and like I said is best when the turbo is already spun up to add the power in power is smooth transition and no real change in smoke. Too low and you get sudden change in power and tires will break loose. When you street racing or even daily driving spinning the tires is not a good sign. You want ot add the power in and keep your traction as well. Hence why I've got a flat stock band (100%) from 5 PSI to 15 PSI. The stock power in the middle is most now just "stock fuel" commanded from the ECM, plus my +150 HP injectors and the custom timing. So this 100% band is for daily driving and the power is held at bay till I break over 15 PSI. Good street manners. Now if I turn up from Level 3 to Level 7 now we drop in the wiretap. Now you see both fuel table the CANBus above with my stock power band through the middle. Then after I reach 15 PSI you see both the CANBus and the WireTap are working together building power at the same rate to 30+ PSI. This is serious power at this point but still smoke free for the most part just the initial start you might see a puff come out but then cleans up instantly. Without the flat in the middle I was having traction issue and tires would spin easy, now it not so quick to burn the tires but to get the most power to the ground without spinning. For economy reason I want to keep the wiretap high in the boost table. For me I'm constantly climbing grades 6% to 7% on the highways either north or south which mean if I set my wiretap too low I'll be riding on the wiretap climbing grades and possibly wasting fuel. My flat ground travel typically I'm like 2 to 3 PSI at 66 MPH and 2k RPM's. I don' want to have my cruise set for 65 MPH and then climb a grade and step into the wiretap to just climb a normal highway grade.

This though I would bother doing either. Cooler fuel is welcomed for the PSG. This keeps the the electronics and the mechanical parts cool. Most of my 5 years of driving in subzero weather taking @MoparMomto dialysis I never got much below +20*F at -30*F outside temperatures. Do remember that my truck still has the factory fuel filter and fuel heater and the leeched heat from the heat taking care of fuel warm in the winter time. Like right now I'm 50 to 70*F fuel temp for a +20*F to +30*F day. Also my IAT and Fuel Temp are running side by side most times. (+/- 5*F) between IAT and fuel temp.

No that is poor meter or leads. It should show 0.00 ohms probes touching. On fluke meter there is a diagnostic test you can do look on your manual or look up the manual for your Fluke. This the RV truck or the work truck? If its the RV you should look into battery isolation block. These are typically diodes wired into the charge line for one to the engine battery and then one lead to the RV battery. These tend to work great because of no relays and weak connections. Either truck you should be doing the voltage drop test for you main feed lines even the alternator charge lines.

At any rate... If replacing batteries only buy in pairs. Do not only replace one battery. The old battery will pull the new battery down to the same level and strength. Only replace with 2 new battery.

I pass them down the line... I really don't like doing them at all. I know way of doing them easier but I still don't want the mess and headache of fighting someone rusted out ball joints on a oversize tire truck. As for my own truck my current ball joints have 248k miles and still good. All I can say is stock sized tires don't have the issues of big tire trucks.

Possible it all has to do with how long the high current continues. If the windings overheat either the field and/or the stator and burn the coating it can cause winding damage. That's how my field failure occur the armature or field winding over heated shorted the blue lead to ground and POOF went the PCM. Remember either side shorts out damage can occur period. Hence why I've got the 150 A circuit breaker and the 5 A field lead fuse now. Any rate if there is any heat that is too hot to touch the alternator then you have issues and should have the alternator tested. Most likely already failed or going to fail.

Yes it does! It very possible to short to ground on the diodes hence why the melt and blow out. This diode pack off a ND did exactly that and shorted to ground and burned up.

You hid your post so now I got it unhidden. The kit comes with the antiseize. All spelled out in the directions.

Diodes are junk. Shouldn't be any connection between the case and the BATT + stud. That is a short to ground. Correct for the grid heaters relays. It should be infinite ohms on the two large studs. The two smaller studs should have a ohm reading.

ECM and PCM both talk to the cluster. Fuel Guage and volt gauge is from the PCM. The oil pressure, coolant temp, tach are cover by the ECM. As for speedometer the ABS talks to the cluster.

Be careful there... We got several un-Americans as members.