Mopar1973Man

Ahhh... yeah that would do it.

Yup drop the Quad in and im going and doing some new testing myself more for MPG purpose. I've got a different idea for the fuel map.

Or you have a lift kit without adjustable track bar will do the same thing.

Yeah I had the check valve fall out on me while doing a customers rig. I at least seen it fall was able to see where it went. His the came apart super easy.

Damn! That looks COLD! (Brrrr!)

Gotta ask how did you tighten the injectors? Crossover tubes first then the hold downs on top of the injectors. You could have a crossover tube not sealing.

Skip the DEFAULT tune it won't fit. If your true stock maybe it would work OK. You upgrade injectors, turbo, and few other items so now the default tune would work but not optimally. Personally since most of the performance is in the timing I would start there. Run level 2 without CANBus fuel or Wiretap then you can build the the defuel curve to control launching smoke. I'm 7 x 0.010 and start my fuel curve at 80% for most everything. Like economy tune doesn't reach stock 100% level till 14 PSI. Then at the 30+ PSI position I'm only 123% over. (Beside the point). You need to focus and get the timing good for just your stock fuel. Right now I'm 13.0, 17.5, 22.0, 26,5 Max 27.0 That is max timing. I would twist this down to a +4 step. 13, 17, 21, 25. This will be better fit for timing. It will have good launching power. You light throttle timing advance would be +2 to above so 17 +2 will make 19 degrees for cruise timing. Low pressure timing reduct 2.5 with the scaling at 40%. Currently I did it yesterday on dry pavement pulled up 3rd gear and rolled into the power and rear tires let go instantly. (full wire tap - I know the timing for my setup is wicked). Max Load Timing Offset is 1 degree. Fuel curve you can build at any time dear but for you in "Commie Fornia" you better start on level 2 and get timing and stock fuel looking good then work up. Suggestion for staying clean. Measure your normal cruise boost level, then watch your rolling hills throttle, you want your wire tap above that. Like my normal cruise is like 5 PSI. Then mild grades and rolling hills I can hit 10 to 15 PSI. After 15 PSI the wire tap starts. The give great stability to running in snow as well without the sudden shock of the wire tap as when set lower also when it comes on the turbo is spooled so it just cleanly continues to eat while creating new smoke off the tires. Two things to watch for shuddering is a sign of over advanced timing. When it sound flat and quiet your retarded in timing too far. When making changes its best to run a full tank through and see how it impacts the MPG number which is the best method to verifying if your gaining or losing performance to fuel. This is a +4.5 degree step might be too wide for your setup. Again start with 13 degrees and step up only +4.0. This should fit you well.

Basically the ECM is shot and will require to be pull and tested and repaired. The articles above are to prevent future failures or testing for conditions that might cause a failure. Sine your ECM has failed your going to need to repair it first but you not going to want to install a ECM to possible bad condition that might cause it to fail again in short time. Basically in a nutshell AC noise is really hard on electronics the AC pulses force apon thing like digital chips and other part that ain the family of diodes and transistors will take damage fairly quick. When the polarity swap back and forth this creates heat on these parts and hence the failure.

That's why I love being here in the forest of Idaho less BS. Less crowds. Less problems. Most city folk can't handle the life out here. I've got my weapons, food, self contained power and water. Do not require city services at all. Like this morning its snowing in McCall and something happened and the power went out briefly. The inverter kicked in instantly and still here at the computer. Even got fuel (gasoline and diesel) on the property nothing is going to slow me down much. I don't expect much to happen out here but watching the bigger cities like Los Angeles, CA fall apart...

Then my 3 articles about this topic.

Already strike one with the wait start light. Strike two with the WOT after starting. I'm betting you have not done the W-T ground wire mod? Then I'm also betting your alternator has excessive AC noise issues?

I've got plenty of weapons, Thank You...

Turns on the blue wire and green both with tach signal. I'm going to bet your alternator shorted out the blue lead like mine did and fried the PCM. The PCM is protected by a 20 amp fuse and the circuit board can't handle the full 20 amp short. The PCM circuit board burns up. Mine was so bad the fiberglass burn away (physical hole in the board) there was nothing to fix. Still going to need to have the PCM tested and repaired. (Thumb nail is a picture of another members damage!) I did create a fix for protecting that so it never happens again.

Gotta ask a few questions? Does the WAIT TO START light come on instantly? Does it still do it with the Edge Comp removed? What does the live data tool show the TPS value to be with just the key on? Does the TPS show normal reaction without the engine running?

This is what the scientist wear to protect themselves from COVID-19... But hey your little cloth mask will do just fine.

Happy New Years to all the family here... The only thing that has me seriously worried is the simple fact Biden is coming into office and he's not all mentally there up stairs and a few fries short of a "Happy Meal".

Head bolt tightening after you do the first lap around its super simple to keep track. Starting from the center and working in a circular pattern growing larger with each pass. I've gotten to the point I do this with about everything. Exhaust manifolds same thing start in the center work your way out.

Just remember that your battery life span will be greatly shortened. The old school voltage regulators like your one wire and the old school Mopar Voltage Regulator does not monitor battery temperature so it really easy to have that alternator boil the electrolytes out of the battery. At least the Mopar Regulator does have some temperature regulation but all depends on the under hood temperature for the voltage supplied. I would suggest getting back to the PCM if possible. Battery temp sensor does actually does a great job of preventing battery from boiling or loss of electrolyte.

Well last few I've picked up from HF. Don't do any plastic creepers mine was only rated for 230 pounds at the time I killed the plastic one I just crossed over 240 pounds. I've got another one from HF which is steel framed and padded back board with tilt head rest, not bad. Part that sucks is it seems to be always falling apart screws and bolts loosening up.

Out here the whole mask this is optional. Go to any bigger town or city like McCall, Boise, etc. All required masks. Still see many people without mask being worn.

Not so much the air flow but the washing rains.

Stay up and played AD&D with @Jthor and @Wet Vette last night lasted to about 10pm then started to fall asleep.

I pull the fuel drain off of my landlord truck. (Other Shop). I used a T15 and just pull it off and change the 2 o-rings in the valve. Re-assembled and installed again just cost me about 10 minutes and 2 o-rings from my A/C stuff.

Just gotta smell the sweet smell and know that the heater core is done. If the glass is fogging the glass then you for sure have a bad heater core.

Yeah... I've destroyed my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon from lifting and oversized tires. Even since I figured it all out now. I get plenty of chances of driving other peoples truck most all of them with lifts and oversized tires have issues with lane centering and darting issues just like this 2005. Hence the owner brought to my shop because he's burned up two steering box in a very short time I found out. Like my 2006 Dodge is on 18 wheels (275/70 R18 - 33 inch tires) even this truck has a 2 inch leveling kit too, and this truck doesn't hold center good, darty and lack lane centering the last time I drove the truck. I'm going to ditch those 18 inch wheels find some stock 17 inch wheel and pull the leveling kit out as well. I plan on making that 2006 into my service truck and tow rig. If I get a job where I might travel to say @JAG1 place with the RV towed to his place and then have all the tools on the truck I could do about anything then.