Mopar1973Man

Because these old dinosaurs are easier to work on than the new trucks and parts are cheaper. CR engine for a set of injectors right about $2,100 for stock injectors. I can buy a VP44 for half that price. Then injectors for us are quarter that price. Why do we want to pay for new technology that cost more to fix? I know I'm hypocrite now being I also own a 2006 Dodge ram now too and plan on dropping that same $2,100 on injectors too. Being I bought it cheap I could fix it up and use it for a time and them trade for something else I find.

First of return pressure isn't a concern. The restriction is NOT the plumbing but the VP44. Look at the photo the return is the left side while supply is the right side. No matter what you do for the plumbing this restriction will always be in the pump and will not flow any more. My max fuel temp in the summer with temps between 110 to 115*F outside barely makes 130 to 140*F fuel temp for me. Still running fully stock return lines. The key for me is I do NOT draw from the basket where all the heat fuel is coming back to. I pull from the front side of the tank on a separate draw straw. For all you drawing from the sender basket remember the return from the rear of the heat is heating the fuel to near coolant temperatures and then return to the sender basket to be sent back to the VP44 preheated. Again where I draw away from the heated fuel and get cooler pump temperatures.

Agree... They do look good on 35 inch tires but rarely does anyone do the modification right. I'll give away a street racing secret. Take a truck like mine where the ratio is correct and sitting on 245's. (3.69:1 final ratio) Now go to big city and find a truck jack up with 35" to 37" tires (3.20 to 3.00 final ratio) and egg him on to race. The other truck ratio is too tall and they struggle to keep up with me. This typically because EGT's jump high really quick for them. Not to mention being high up in the air wind drag is a huge factor I've got less drag. I usually pull a good truck length on them. Being I've got all my low end power I can walk away and gain my lead right out of the hole. 99% of the time all they done was pull the stock wheels off and up sized to there new tire. Then added a leveling kit. No readjustment of thrust angle or caster angle. Then whine about how bad it steers now. Then complain about poor MPG, steering and suspension issues. Just like the 2005 sitting in my yard that @Blue-Top Steering just rebuilt the steering box and its on its way back. Now if was done right with adjustable track bar, adjustable lower control arms, then re-gear the tire for your tire size and reprogram the computer for revs per miles. But alas 99% of the time just wheel swap and hope for the best. Why not ask why I know how to rebuild 1960's to current sagnaw steering boxes? Because my first truck 1972 Dodge Power Wagon I done just like all you change the wheels and tires and went up a size. Ended up adding more stress for the steering box and was constantly rebuilding them even in my younger years for friends around me that drove Chevy's and Dodge's. Hence why I made the promise to my parent when I bought the 2002 I would never lift and run over sized tires. RIP Mom and Dad but I kept my promise. On that 1972 Dodge I broke wheel joints a bunch. Then wore out ball joints like candy. Steering boxes always leaked. Axle bearing failed more after the wheel and tire change which made me monthly task of repacking the bearings. Since I've never done all the lift and oversized tires to my current truck... I've never had any of the steering issues you boys do...

Correct. @Tractorman Battery temp sensor isn't design for detecting shorted cells. Only to set the maximum charge voltage. Colder the temperature the higher the level goes. The warmer the battery the lower it goes. I've seen from 13.2 to 14.8 volts as a range. Battery temp sensor will not protect anything. Even in @JAG1case there is no way to stop a shorted battery from getting hot and drawing more current. No matter what battery had the sensor the only thing is might of had a weak battery in the morning (sensing high battery temp) or in his case sensing the cooler battery and boil the electrolyte out of the shorted battery. Either way its not the battery temp sensor job it the owners job to replace the bad batteries (as a set) and then clean and test his terminals. Again battery temp sensor will not protect alternators or batteries just sets the voltage based on temperature.

Might check fuel temp in the summer below a 1/2 tank. Being you be re-pumping that hot return fuel from the head return.

Yup... I forgot about that and he did a good job of breaking that stud.

Absolutely correct do not stack tuners. This creates a headache and troubles adjusting around the other tuner.

Just buy the pump head. Easy to just replace and its the only wear item. Why replace the filter base and hoses?

Good way to break a stud. high chances of hot torque will make the studs fail... Again straight from ARP - DO NOT do a hot torque. Why would you want everything expanded and try to clamp the head tighter? Why not do it cold when everything is condensed and get a good clamp on the head as the engine warm up everything expands and tightens more.

I ran a Southbend Con OFE clutch for many years below 500 HP. Very good holding clutch. This time with the mods I've got I stepped up to the Dual Disc Valair Organic clutch. Again a good holding clutch but loud throw out bearing. Next clutch I will most likely swap back to Southbend...

No. Because as soon as you reset back to stock tune the setting is erased from the ABS computer. The only thing you get to keep is high idle. All other setting like speedo, tune etc is lost when returned back to stock. You be better off going to the dealer and having the ABS flashed once for shop hour and be done.

Lens is NOT the problem its the reflector. I've got a set of head light housing from Amazon clear lens but the reflector suxs for pattern. Now no matter what you do with housing and bulbs most of it is going to be crappy patterned hotspot on the highway and never be all that great. Like even on my 1996 Dodge I've got new housing and new LED bulbs they are bright but the pattern suxs. Great hotspot in the middle of the highway lane but no light to the edge of the road at all. If a deer jump up out of the ditch I'd never see it. HID's whole new world. The light is evenly cast over the full width of the highway plus another 20 to 30 feet pass the fog lines on both sides. The lens is what makes this all possible. I'm not using any huge bulbs either just the standard 4,000 lumen 5k bulb. On high beam I can light the top of pine tree that is 50 foot tall. Like I said you can play with housing and bulbs till the cows come home but you'll never come close to HID's quality of any sort. I've tried every from sport headlights with the relay mod, new headlight housing and LED bulbs. the HID's... Just no way to do cheap lighting.... Lo Beam HIDs, and PIAA LEDs on as well. Great cutoff and never in on coming eyes. Still a good reach without being to high in peoples eyes. Hi beam on the HID's being it was a short distance to the back drop it doesn't look too tall but out on the open road and looking out in the distance you can clearly see the tops of trees at 50 feet tall. You can see all the way to the curve...

The only thing I can say is contact a ECM/PCM rebuilder and see about having them tested quickly.

@JAG1 now you have been tagged. All people that are posting should get a email or notification but some member turn that off. So the for sure bet is the @ tag.

I remember the last one for mine was 125 foot/pounds. Done in 3 steps up. It all explained in the instructions when you get the studs. DO NOT do a hot torque! Even stated in the manual from ARP.

Just for an example using my own truck. Quadzilla Tuner (180 HP) DAP 150 HP Injectors (7 x 0.010) Turbo HX 35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) I'm close to 500 HP total to the ground. Stock HX35W is just a (54/60/12). The first to numbers are in mm of size of the wheels. The 3rd number is square centimeter opening.

Sad but true.

Not the lens but the reflector. Hence why I bailed out of using any reflector type lighting being HID is based on the lens. LED bulbs like in my 96 the pattern is poor to OK because the reflector is what make the pattern.

Edibles are slow to act but last the longest. They are hard to dose out though. If I'm going this route I'll just buy distillate (RSO - Rick Simpson Oil) and typically take about 0.1 gram dose and that is typically 70 to 90% THC content. CBD is nice to have with it but rare to find strains that have any sizable amounts. As for CBD is even harder to dose because there is no feedback (high). So most don't take enough to gain any healing or relief. Personally I like vape pens the most. The are discrete and fairly inexpensive for cartridges ($30 to 35). I prefer a sativa more so for day time if I need to help out with soreness or pain if any. Typically I stay clean for the day. Come night time I'll hit the indica in about 15 to 30 minutes I start to drop off to sleep. Typically takes me right to about 4am to 5am and now everything has ran out. Hence what wakes me up after darting to take a early morning pee. Just walking those few steps gets my hips hurting and now I'm awake. (Ugh...)

Working fine for 2 years and counting. LEDs in both front marker and rear tail lights. Still flashing at a normal rate. I'm still using switch bulbs in the front that turn white light with parking lamps and then turn amber with any turn signal or hazards being used. I'm planning to remove the tail light fuse and reducing down to smaller like 2.5 amp or so. Better protection for the light load LED's. Don't need 15A or 20A fuse any longer. These bulbs are like 0.2 Amps a piece. Even 4 bulbs (marker lights) that is barely 0.8 Amps for all the marker lights.

ARP 425 Studs... ARP 247

Me. All I got to do is get up and get in a hot shower and everything loosen up and I can go all day no problem but by the time 4pm rolls around I'm running out of steam. Little secret about me I didn't know. When I had my bladder cancer surgery the first surgery when I was released I was hurting so bad that it made me pass out in the wheelchair but I could not feel that pain. I rated like a 3 or 4. By the time I got down stairs I was getting sick to my stomach. I had him turn me back around and by the time I reach my room again I was out like a light. Next thing I know is I'm waking up and there is like 20 people in my small hospital room taking samples of everything. An hour later I was told I've got a super high threshold for pain and my vagus nerve just shut me down (passed out). I stayed an extra day and night. Come to find out the next day I can't even walk. It was a serious battle still even after all the pain meds were gone. I didn't really feel any pain per say (3 or 4 still) but made me walk like a old man and struggled with nausea after figuring out how my body deals with pain and with a little support from the nurse and a walker I worked my way through and got walking again. Still to this day I can tolerate quite a bit of pain before it shuts me down. My biggest problem is when I stop that is the end of me for the day. I start to stiffen up and hurts to move. Still to this day cannabis is a way better solution for pain management. When is Spring coming?

Actually just looking at NOAA it shows the storm moving north east towards Canada. The storm coming is downgraded only going to snow 1/2 inch. The only problem is getting out of the valley here you have to climb up to 4,000 feet minimum to get out of this valley to the north or south. Great way to just get snowed in. Just for me my biggest thing is just reduce stress. I've got to delegate more task out and spread my work load out more. Yeah there was a discussion here among the family but getting thing in order and spreading the workload out in needed for me. Like this morning I'm up super early again at 5am because just my lower back and hips hurting me. Then shortly after an hour of laying there I started a sneezing fit. Now I'm wide awake and don't want to wake up Eileen. So here I am in front of the computer early looking over the site and handling a few post and things.

Sad that there isn't any ECM made any longer and everything is a rebuilt route now for us.

Hmmm... I'm already beyond you with the vitamins. I take a multi-vitamin and another Vitamin D as well. Then I've got a few extra in the med-set for different purposes. Like you I fight pain in my lower back, shoulders and hips. Yeah all the years of turning wrenches are catching up with me. I still get up every day and push through to provide for my family the best I can. This weekend turned out a bonus. I managed to finish up everything I could and get it gone. Then all my parts for the remaining jobs come Tuesday. This gave me a 3 day weekend for Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Today is going be a shop day for my own toys. I'm going to pull the truck in and get some maintenance done like gear lube in the axles, check the transfer case. Change my power steering fluid again. (still got some moisture showing). Fix my back up light and rehook up my switch in the cab. Fix my parking brake which has failed again. Then Tuesday is the start of the winter storm here and suppose to get nasty hence why I need to have my truck in top shape.