Mopar1973Man

Between all the vehicles in the yard and bitter cold I've been working more outside that at the website. 2005 Dodge Ram on 35 inch tires needs a steering box rebuilt by Blue Top. Then I need to order injectors for this truck. 2002 Dodge had both the FASS and injection pump fail at roughly 100 miles. Im going to be installing both today. 2003 VW Passat I need to look into the cam sensor wiring. Then order a oxygen sensor. I've got an Olds 88 that needs a water pump. 2006 Dodge needs a clutch and injectors (shop truck]. Then the 1987 motor home needs plug wires and new fuel pump on a Chevy 454 CID. Roof repair and roof vent replacement. 1985 Chevy Suburban needs a MAP sensor which after several phone calls it will be here today for NAPA. Ugh...

Very true too.

Yes sir, you absolutely correct. Better your timing the better the power and reduction of smoke. If your watching your oil temp like I do you can see how much flame is on the cylinder walls. The oil temp will rise up when you advance heavy. Oil temp will fall when your retard the timing. Then Engine Load will tell you also if you to far one way or another. Over advance you'll create negative torque which is the gases light off as the piston still travelling up and it creates a downward force while traveling up. Typically there is quite a bit of knock being create and could be heard. Retarded to far and it will turn kind of silent. Either direction the engine load will rise when you hit the optimal realm the engine load will fall sharply.

Should work better.

Just for Info... 245/75 R16 (30.5 Inch tires) at 66 MPH I'm prefect 2,000 RPM's making my final ratio 3.69:1 and hover about 550*F EGT's with boost at 2 to 3 PSI tops in 5th gear (0.75:1). Even at 2,500 RPM at 82 MPH I'm still like 650 to 700*F EGT's. Tuner can help but final ratio helps better. Being with your 35 inch tires on 3.55 gears makes the final ratio 3.21 which is to tall geared hence your EGT's rising because of gearing loads. You would benefit with a gear swap either 3.73 or 4.10.

Yes they share the same box. Just the only difference is either "Quick Ratio" or "Standard Ratio". It was in 2003 Dodge dropped the Sagnaw steering box for Ford steering box hence why the fluid is no longer power steering but ATF. It all Ford steering from 2003 up. No this is no better being I've got a 2005 in the yard jacked up on 35 inch tires and his steering box didn't even make 100k miles and leaking out both output shaft and input shaft both. I've got it mailed out @Blue-Top Steering to be rebuilt.

Dealer for what ever reason can't seem to read the TSB and make up plenty of reason why it can't be done or don't do it right. Fact: Any Smarty S-03 can update the high idle bit to enable from 98.5 to 2002 for sure. This means any 98.5 to 2002 can be enabled with DRBIII tool at a dealer. Just most tech don't know how to do it still even with the TSB document in their face. Sad but true...

Batteries can store for a very long time with no issues as long as they are fully charged. Now working the batteries every day 24 hours a day and 7 days a week constantly discharging and recharging for 10 years way different story. Since my house system power nearly everything and system runs 24 hours a day 7 days a week. This is where the lead acid comes to the top better because for something like I have and power my house day in and out 24 hours a day 7 days a week. Weekend warriors, well yeah that looks impressive but storage time and not being used is cheating a bit. Any battery can sit in storage and not be used for long period with a full charge. Just like my 1996 Dodge pickup siting in the yard for months at a time not being driven. It the fact of working the batteries every day, charging and discharging every day for 10 years. This battery system is never shutdown or stops or get storage time like a RV. Different story now. 7 years old and weekend warrior used vs. everyday home power 24/7 for 10 years. I've got way more charge and discharge cycles for sure.

Most part yes. Mine was the supplied draw draw with my AirDog but I know the truth that Eric and Vulcan Performance produce it. So yeah that is like it but mine was a bit different fitting wise as you seen my photos. The big things... Cut the straw STRAIGHT. No angles! The straw must be with in the thickness of a single quarter coin (my design) or 2 quarter coins (FASS Design) between the straw and the bottom of a empty tank. You may notch the end of the straw but no more than like a 1/8 of a inch and no more. Make sure to measure with the tank EMPTY. A full tank will deflect the bottom by nearly 1/4" from full to empty. The trick is do this all on the empty tank so as the fuel runs out the bottom of the tank will rise back up to the straw allowing everything to be draw up and used. Where cutting to much gap now create the 1/4 tank slosh problem.

Very true. Work around here has been endless. It was very much an off day.

I know that @AH64ID mention to me a while back that exhaust brakes are a double hit. First the exhaust brake can help warm up the IAT being some of the compression gas blow back in the intake. But the bad side is it will put more carbon in your oil during warm up. Even just if I cycle up and down like power up to say 70 MPH and then let my exhaust brake pull me down to 55 MPH I can create IAT pretty fast. I've got my entire grill covered.

Ummm... I'm not that small. Stock 245/75 R16's (30.5 Inches) early 2nd Gen tire size.

Not really... The dealer can only put the DRBIII tool on it and see if there is codes. As for true testing yes you need to pick a rebuilder and have it sent in to verify the ECM isn't physically damaged internally. The dealer won't verify the internals at all being they have zero means to do any electrical rebuilding.

The hole drilled for the draw straw. Not inside the sender bracket. This is the thickness of a standard quarter (coin) between the tip and the tank bottom. Straight cut and then lightly notched with the edge of a grinder. to prevent sucking tight to the bottom. Never had 1/4 tank slosh issues or losing prime on steep grades.

About normal. Mine has been floating 17 to 18 MPG. Now like my last trip I took a scenic route to town and slowed down to 55 MPH. I popped up to 19 MPG. I would be really looking at opting for a 200*F thermostat which will bring the IAT temp up. This winter for me has been mild and the weather floating 30 to 40*F. I didn't opt for the hotter thermostat. Remember colder the air more time it takes to heat the fuel to vapor to go BANG! Cold air is not a friend of MPG at all. I've never seen a reason to bypass the intercooler even with -20*F to -40*F winters.

Shoes typically come with a new vacuum motor. Just make sure to pay attention to the way the fork is mounted on the stem being it can be reversed and doesn't work correctly if flipped.

Could be the vacuum motor has a tear in the diaphragm. I've seen on my 1996 Dodge the vacuum motor had been struck and bent the housing and the shaft was sticking. After replacement it worked better but still hangs on disconnection the shafts. You could pull the vacuum motor and check the fork and collar shoes for wear.

Why would you need all that? MPG mode (of the high idle kit) retards the timing on cold starts. As IAT falls below 80*F then the ECM stacks on another +3 to +4 degrees of timing. Like myself I run the Quadzilla at a 140*F mode so I can switch over to my custom timing quickly. Usually 2 to 3 miles towards New Meadows which is up hill I'm nearly fully warmed up. Now heading down canyon towards Riggins I only need about 5 to 8 miles. Like for winter operation I cover my grill face so no cold air is blowing over the intercooler. Like my last trip to Lewiston I managed to stuff my stick in between the froks and was stuck in 4th gear running 2,300 RPM all the way to the top of the grade. The fan was able to lock and still keep the coolant in check at about 197 to 200*F. Once I got to the top took me about 20 minutes to pull the stick out of the transmission reset the fork and get on my way again.

Just did another trip where I ran right down to EMPTY mark no issues with 1/4 tank slosh or anything she kept on pumping and going.

CAD axles suxs... Basically when you select 4WD then the vacuum is applied to pull the collar over the shaft ends to couple the shafts together. Then when you select N or 2WD then the collar is slid toone side to uncouple the axles. On my 1996 Dodge its temperamental, shift to 4WD it takes a bit to pull the collar over. Then when I select 2WD it will slide the collar partially but not fully till you stop and back up just a few feet then it full released. If you don't it will remain in 4WD till it wants to let go with a sudden POP and slam the collar over. Kind of violent. Then other is climbing steep grades and dropping the manifold vacuum low and it will disconnect some times. Not enough vacuum to hold the collar and floats of the one side and back to 2WD without touching the stick. (rare but happened a few times). Solid axles I've never had one issues with them. Never had any issues with shifting or anything.

All that was done. Just to point out this is a customers truck and I've already swapped my TIPM module on his truck to verify any kind of change. Nope no change. Pull the dash and removed the headlight switch. Wiggled wires nope. Again this entire circuit is not voltage switch like old school but a digital signal sent to the TIPM to turn out which device. When you have a dimmer switch that turns on the wipers and sprays the windshield when your trying to dimmer the HI beam when they worked. It like all the digital messgaes are screwed up and calling for the wrong things like left turn signal is turning on the right turn signal. Then headlights should come on without the key but in this case you need the key on. Left turn signal givens right turn signal Dimmer switch gives passing light flash (hi beam) but includes the wiper and spraying Hazards only flash the right turn signal. Wipers don't have hi speed on low speed. Right turn signal is right. (Correct) It's not a wire connection but a digital signal issue. The mutlifunction switch is only FIVE wires. Not like the older second gens with way more wiring.

Just for info purpose. I had a customers truck here for a Timbo APPS install and shortly later it popped a P1689 code for the VP44. After all my time and installed the VP44 and got it finished. I didn't quite get the APPS plug back in all the way... It created a nice failed started condition. The owner fired up the truck and it was missing and shuddering. I ran and got the code reader and sure enough there was a P0123 code. I simply push the connector together and reset the codes. Very fixable but, what I wanted to show is... IF there is a APPS sensor problem typically 99.9% of the time there is a error code. VP44 issues can be present without any codes thrown. ECM problems typically with have a rash of all hi volt or lo volt codes. Wait to start light problems or P0606 code. You've got the WTS light problem so this is the direction your going to have to travel and have the ECM inspected and tested.

Yup. Mine has the rubber cover well but still vibrated into the cover and just laid there. So all I did was squeeze the terminals with a pair of pliers. Most likely still good but the rear of the ND alternator was really hot when it did start to charge I'm not sure about AC noise or diode issues yet. Being I need he truck for work I just replaced it than getting hung up with a alternator issue leaving me stuck in the back country. I'd really hate like heck to get to job and have the batteries be dead and walking back out. for miles. Heck its only 21*F here this morning. So yeah just replaced it...

Two days ago my CHECK GAGES light came on and the volt gauge sunk to 8V. My USB plug showed 11.9 Volts yup it died. I got a new alternator and a day later it did it again. No error codes either. I checked my PCM protection fuse and sure enough the fuse fell out of the cover. I took a pair of pilers and squeezed the sockets closed again and it fixed. My alternator I've got now is a Bosch not a ND. Yeah make sure to check your fuse holder and be sure its not loose. It weird because mine is taped to the loom and not floppy around.

I've got a 2006 Dodge ram here with some very strange issues electrically. All stems around the headlights and turn signals and the multi-function switch. If you turn the right turn on it actually does light the right turn signal. Now turn on the left and the right is flashing. Turn on the hazards and only the right is flashing. Now turn on the head light there is zero headlight but markers and fog lamps. Try hi or lo beam it will flash for a brief moment but turn on the wipers and spray the windshield. Can't get hi wipers at all only lo. Now what did I do so far... Changed the multi-function switch - Same issue Pulled my 2006 Dodge TIPM and swapped it - Still the same problem (Testing with my own TIPM module which works) Its like the CANBus is getting the wrong message from the multi-function switch. There is only 5 wires coming and going to the mult-function switch. I did find someone badly made headlight bypass relay. Pull all that and return to the factory wiring and got headlights for a short time only on HI beams only. by the time I pull the column apart twice I lost the heads a second time. The owner has brand new LED headlight bulbs which I've seen but hi and lo beam work. Still might get a quick flash when you pull the stalk back but wiper and spray come on. No I did accidently roll the wiper knob on or push the end of the knob in for spray. Make matter worse I've still got his other 2002 Dodge here waiting for a injection pump to come back from the rebuilder. He's got zero vehicle running now. Any info to help out here would be welcomed.