Mopar1973Man

Because a bolts have a hexagon head on one end and threads on the other, and studs are typically threaded on both ended hence its name.

Nothing... Battery temp sensor stay right where its at. The battery are already tied together. If both batteries are healthy then both batteries should be the same temperature. Again like my solar/hydro system is eight deep cycle 6V batteries and only 1 temp sensor. Again if all the batteries are healthy they will be all the same.

Last year it was 2 to 3 feet of snow here. This year not even enough to plow few inches. I've seen years like this and other years where there is just rains. Nice to have mild winters.

Napa heavy duty flasher will cover LEDs and not hyper flash.

You got lucky out there.

Just edited above... about 20 mile ride.

Here in Idaho I've got bears in my front yard every fall. I was out hiking few weeks ago and found mountain kitty tracks. Seen plenty of deer and elk. This was up the big river road past French creek.

W-T ground wire mod, good alternator with low AC noise will make a huge difference.

Like I've got about 2 cords of wood but it all wet. Now it raining down here. I tried building a fire in the fireplace to add a little heat but as wet as the wood is its just not burning.

Basically you need lock up in all gears. Like PacBrake has a lock up controller but only works in 3rd and 4th gear. Now if you talk to @Dynamicand he tells you have to get lock up in all gears now you can lock the torque converter and use the exhaust brake in all forward gears. IIRC the 1st and 2nd gear you need to block a port in the valve body from seeing pressure.

I was taught to share everything. Well here I am I'm sharing the fact the storm is here and it dropping snow and now its headed east towards you. I'm sharing information and my snow. What else could you ask for? Hopefully your knee is healing up good. I know what that's like after dislocating my knee back in 88 or so. Took a long time for me to heal up and gain my strength in that knee. I use to be able to pop it out of joint on command. Then pop it back in again little pain for for a bit but good trick to blow friends minds. So, yeah I know exactly what your dealing with. When you get the green light to use it more make sure to work on getting the strength back in that knee. Like right now its warmed up to 34*F here and the yard is nothing but mud again. Great... At least when its frozen I can lay down cardboard or a piece of plywood and still work on my outdoor projects. But when it rains and thew yard is just mud it just plain bad mess. I'm hoping for more snow or at least bare minimum freezing temps. This year is for sure warmer here, less snow and muddy.

Looks cold... (Brrrrr...) Yeah I get it. Like here its get down to subzero I'd rather just stay in. I've got plenty of food and supplies just not dry firewood this year...

LOL... I don't even give it much wake up. I fire it up let my engine idle while I gather stuff form the house or shop for work. Then take off. Piss it off... Never happen. Now like like myself I'm running the Quadzilla tuner so when my warm up mode is active I'm restricted to my 0 PSI boost fueling amount. I'm set for 80% fuel so till I reach 140*F I have reduced fuel below stock and can't cause any harm. Even on Level 3 with CANBus only I can just barely reach 1,200*F (not in warm up mode). My tune has a flat spot in the fuel table that 0 to 5 PSI of boost is 80% to 100% then from 5 PSI to 15 PSI is only 100% fuel (stock fuel) then from 15 PSI up it ramps to 150% fuel. This make daily driving more "stockish" but when you need power you can stab that GO! pedal and get it only if its not running warm up mode.

That's about the normal look for me... After dealing with Chevy's and Ford's...

I can drive my EGT's up to 800 to 900*F just 3 cylinder mode and the exhaust brake. I'll admit that it does warm up much faster. I normally don't do this being I rather just leave a bit early jump in start up and roll letting the road load warm up the engine. I understand if the glass is all frosted over yup your most likely going to use high idle and get heat to the glass so you can see to drive safely.

Like buttons do exist... I think it you on the wrong side of the fence. Being it shows Gold Member (old system) which everyone should be switching over to the new system (monthly, quarterly or yearly plans). If you want create a ticket for support and well dive in deeper. Yeah I seen "Diesel Brothers" and every build had military axles and some gawd awful lift and rolling massive coal. Every design was build around those huge lifts and big tires. Don't get me wrong some that is needing a truck to cross a bog sure. Still in all the route I choose is that I'm looking for EFFICIENCY. Ditch the rotational mass as much as possible. Ditch the drag as much as possible. https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1127408_truck-modifiers-behind-diesel-brothers-hit-with-850-000-fine-for-pollution ... Continued ... So now when you change back to looking at drag and efficiency, you find that true racing they aim to reduce rolling weight, rotational weight, and lower the vehicle to the road to reduce drag and center of gravity. When you start removing the drag and rotational mass the power comes by itself without any power mods. Even correcting the final ratio to the ground improve low end response and launching power considerably. Like myself I do live in the mountains I can't just slam a vehicle to the ground but I don't want it standing up excessively in the wind. Wind drag is exponential above 55 MPH. Lower vertical height or just reducing the frontal size of the vehicle has huge impact in efficiency. Now If you watch close the better you make the efficiency (reduction of drag and rotational mass) you notice all temperatures go down. (Engine coolant temperature, EGT's, engine oil temperature) then even deeper down the line you'll see the transmission temperature fall too. Heat in a device (engine, transmission, or axles) is energy or work force turn into heat and is wasted energy. What I've found in all my testing and changing of stuff. The optimal final ratio for any 98.5 to 02 Dodge Ram with a 5.9L Cummins is between 3.55:1 to 3.73:1 now this is figuring in tires and wheels. Like here is a example... 35 x 12.50 R16 on 3.55 geared axle has a final ratio of 3.21 to the ground - FAIL! This will generate huge amount of coolant temperature and EGT's. 35 x 12.50 R16 on 4.10 geared axle has a final ratio of 3.71 to the ground - PASS! This will run much cooler.

Here is my article on this.

Exhaust brakes... Oh how wonderful they are. I was warned long time ago back at about 15k miles. Friends were telling me upgrade and get the exhaust brake. I did. Wow! First brake job at 180k miles. Braking force is good. It can and will get the tires hopping if your coming down in gear to fast. Remember I'm a manual with a dual disc clutch. If you need a rush warm up leave the exhaust brake on it warms up faster. I typically drive like the brake pedal doesn't exist. I do majority of my stopping on the exhaust brake.

Not a prob. The collar has to be loose n and removed before the tank comes down. The secret is if you do that the the sender stands up out of the tank as you lower the tank now you have good access to the fuel lines. The little squeeze tabs are usually in bad positions. This way the sender stands up and you have good access to remove the two fuel line. The sender had a plug in the top (inside). This is a bit tough to get out but not impossible. Then you disassemble the plug pull the pins out and replace the sender and reverse this.

@Doubletrouble... It will come like it or not... Ohio... Yeah your going to get some of this.

To arm the high idle on the Cummins ECM. For the high idle to come on you must meet those two requirements. Typically takes about 2 minutes tops to arm the high idle. Coolant temperature MUST be below 140*F at startup. IAT temperature must be below 26*F or 13*F with grid heater operating. Now for Cancelling... Speed greater than 0 MPH. TPS greater than 0% throttle. Coolant over 170*F. Brake pedal pressed. Auto Trans not in park or neutral. So it will never automatically arm on extended idle or while the engine is fully warmed. Lets say I've only seen the high idle arm once this entire winter and only 6 cylinder mode.

I would just jump the wires down under the seat. The two wire jump together turns off the light. The only solution is to get a new driver side seat belt latch to replace the wore out one.Either way it will shut the light off. Being California might do inspection on that light for function I would suggest the replacement route.

Nope. Like I said its just a 5 pin plug. It's all CANBus controlled out to the TIPM. Not like the older 2nd gen. You can see that older generation is all switches. Where the 3rd Gen is all CANBus controlled.