Mopar1973Man

Yeah I would most likely cut that plastic block terminal off and replace with a crimped ring terminals on the wire. Then use that positive lead from alternator to the circuit breaker and battery.

That series is a pain in the tail. Your going to have to modify that whole setup the charge lead and the two field leads.

Possible too...

People think I only deal with my own truck being 90% of the photos I post here. Actually, I've worked for the public now for over 18 years doing diesel work in my local community. After seeing all the different versions of washable performance filters and the results I can clearly say there is no washable filter capable of keeping the dirt and dust out of your engine. Every time you wash that filter you are reducing the filter media from a good micro number to nothing more than a screen door. When do you toss it out? ANYTIME there is dust or blackness to the turbo. This means there are dust and debris passing through.

Make sure to order a extra fuse. I've got no access to any ANL fuses locally and have to order them as well. Hence why for the W-T ground mod I did the circuit breaker being if you blow a fuse I don't want to wait WEEKS for a fuse to be ordered.

Hmmmm... Here soon the skunks will be running around here doing the same thing. Always get one that with spray close to the house you'll smell it for about a week and get use to the smell. Where everyone complains about the skunk smell. @JAG1Your welcome to come here and see if Idaho skunk smells better than Oregon skunk.

Personally I would replace connector tubes every time the injectors are changed. Why? Because there is a device called a Edge Filter down inside the tube. These Edge Filters hold up ant debris that makes past the VP44 pump and traps it till the either pressure pulse breaks it down and passes through the injector or remains lodged in the edge filter. 3rd Gens and up it always suggested to replace connector tubes with injectors because even the higher pressure has been known to wear the edge filter out from debris as seen below.

Stock air elbow is better than any aftermarket. I always get a giggle when the plastic duct work breaksdown over years of being heated and cooled. The stock air elbow is rubber and built to withstand the heat and conditions under the hood. Its a smooth bore and always flows better than most aftermarkets. Like myself I live out in the dirt roads so washable filter tend to pass more dirt than BHAF. (Big Honkin' Air Filter). Now look at your turbo is it clean or is it dirty? If it black and dirty your filter has failed you and your passing dirt into the engine and doing serious damage! Here is a failed washable filter after passing dirt to the turbo. This same dirt is all the into the engine! Now after checking my own turbo with a BHAF this is after 100k miles of running a BHAF... So tell me which filter is better at keeping the dirt and debris out of your engine? Sure is not a washable filter that is for sure!

As many time I've replaced crank sensors on the early 2nd Gens with NAPA crank sensors I've always had then last a good long time. Being NAPA is the only part store near me. Everything else Autozone, O'Rilley's, etc. are all over 150 miles away. At least NAPA ships to my door for FREE every Tuesday. Like my new pricing layout if I drive to get parts its $1.50 a mile. So McCall is 70 mile round trip roughly. That an extra $105 on someone bill. Or like my last trip to Lewiston for a fuel lines that could 250 mile round trip $375 on someones bill. Being where I live and the distances I've got to run I can no longer just suck it up being fuel is now nearly $4 a gallon here.

I curious how your going to latch and deal with that pointed top of the rear quad door.

I pretty sure the MAX slider is only to control how high the cruise timing can go above the rest. Being the cruise timing is ADDED to the max value this means the max slider will control how far your cruise time can go.

I get it we are all getting older. When I started this adventure of web based Cummins support I was only 32 when I bought my 2002 Cummins. Now I'm 50 years old and just doing the clutch in the 2006 is kicking my arse more so my back and hips. Yeah I get it if you can get a simple job handled by someone else you would opt for it if the price is cheap enough right? Even the best professionals do make mistakes even like myself I forgot a bolt for an airbox on a customers 2012 truck.

Most likely the connecting rod bearing are washed out. I've seen one other that managed to leave valve impressions in the pistons.

What i would get... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MPECSS636SB?impressionRank=3&keywordInput=34+crank+position+sensor

Correct. The main page under timing you set all them to ZERO. Then under max timing you set for the PLUS amount over stock.

650 HP holding power and perfect for this truck being next is injectors and a tuner. Truck will be heavy and possibly hauling the RV for jobs too so. That way we can make home on long projects than driving back and forth to home. I've got jobs in the field now that is killing me in fuel going back and forth for tools or supplies. 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 (SRW) - G56 transmission, 4WD truck with a gooseneck ball... Oh that "Full Force" box is a set of injectors for @Jthor 1995 Ford F-350 7.3L injectors. Stage 1 injectors and 160cc pumps. Still gotta get the title swapped over to Idaho and have a VIN inspection.

I'm moving forward on building my shop truck. I've got the Valiar Quiet Towing Dual Disc clutch from @dieselautopower. Started this morning getting the old flywheel and flex plate out. Come to find out the rear main seal is weeping. So, I got @Jthorto run to NAPA and pickup a rear main seal for $40. But here is what I've got... Rear crank seal is wet. Change it now while the clutch is out... Then slam in the flywheel... Here is the friction disc stack.

I can say without a doubt the Cam Sensor I replaced a few weeks ago was a NAPA and it was EXACTLY like the OEM sensor right down to numbers on the body and the o-ring seal.

Currently when I turn the key on it tells me there is no fuel the low fuel light comes on. It was just a few months ago I changed the sensor out in the tank. The volt gauge tends to start fine but later on drop to 8V even though my battery voltage is 14.2 to 14.5 volts still. Now I plan on verifying the fuel sender to see if I can measure any ohm resistance at the PCM if so them the sensor is fine by the PCM had failed. Volt gauge I really can't test no way being the voltage is sensed and the reported to the cluster over the CCD network. I might be calling @Auto Computer Specialist and talking to them on warranty call.

245/75 R16 will increase you to 3.69:1 final ratio. 265/75 R16 will bring you to stock 3.55:1 to the ground. 285/75 R16 will decrease 3.42:1 to the ground. (not optimal) Above 285's not suggest without gear change in the axles.

Already $3.689 for diesel here. I will be over $4 by start of summer. I'll most likely drop back my hyper-mile days again and crank up to 27 MPG. I still remember how to do it. I'm in good setup now and have way better chance of beating my old record. Better low end final ratio. Less rotational mass and just cut the speed back to 55 as MAX. Level 2 is the best for this being all the add fuel is cut back to stock levels. Still have the timing.

Quad is adjustable for warm up temp. Change the setting try again and see.

No worse come home walk around to the backside man door to the garage and have buck snort and blow snot all over you in the dark. Yup now I carry a Maglite on my belt.

I used a local machine shop in Caldwell ID. He specialized in Cummins engine and building racing engines. I know next time I'll not cheap out I only did 18 of the 24 valve guides because of budget limits. ARP 425 studs, head gasket kit, shortly afterwards installed 150 HP injectors. Still running 20° to 22° @ 2k RPM.

Problem... Stock and RV275 you can do with about any tuner. Now like 150 HP injectors you cannot because the only tuner with adjustable timing is Adrenaline. This is where the smoke bomb stem from. I ran 75 HP injectors with Edge Comp and they where very smokey. Now switch to Quadzilla cleaned right up with good timing control. Most tuners just stack couple degrees timing on top of stock. Still miss the mark. My current tune I'm about 21° @ 2k. Can't find that with most other tuners. There is Smarty Touch for +60HP which cost about $1800 for the fully meal deal. Now Quadzilla is about $700 and 180 HP tuner simpler that Smarty Touch and more power. These are the only two with full timing control. Not like Smarty S03 mild to wild timing which you can't see or adjust other than stacking plus amount on top of stock. Bigger the injectors require some deep retard to spool the turbo and then step back up after spooling. Hard to do built on top of stock values... Doesn't work good and rarely clean running. Kind of like building a Chevy 350 and going to run stock timing and huge carb don't make any sense?