Mopar1973Man

Nice. Could you write an article on how you built that exactly. I would love to have a cheap test stand for 24V injectors!

Most of the pups out here play hard go get there truck sloppy with mud and never wash it. After a awhile the salt gets into the mud and accelerates the rusting process. Just about keeping the truck clean of mud and all drain holes open and flowing. Less water can stand in the bottom of the rocker panels the better off you are. Old story but when we moved to Idaho we only had the 1973 Dodge Charger and the 1978 Dodge Magnum XE. On the Magnum had a drain hole plug with body sealant. So the rocker panel on the driver side just below the rear window glass was rusting out. I had a excellent body man next door. He crease the metal so it was stepped and not sure what kind of fastener or glue he used but no welding. This is the best way to do it so there is no burnt metal that will rot from inside out.

Sorry for the theme breaking the site. As for the oil pressure building mine does the same thing in the morning on cold starts. Rattles just for a moment till oil pressure builds. I normally just let it idle for a good 2 minutes before getting moving on sub zero mornings. Once its had some time to pump oil then I just get rolling and go easy till it builds more heat.

Ummm... Better move north and check out the weather up here. Being subzero is common place in New Meadows. At least once a year you'll get a week of minus weather just about every year. Just a couple of days ago I just saw -2*F driving to New Meadows, ID.

This was caused by not doing fluid flushes every 30k miles. As brake fluid ages the fluid takes on moisture. It's a hygroscopic fluid which means it will absorb moisture from the air. As the moisture is absorbed over time the boiling point of the fluid is reduced so brake fade happens sooner, and the moisture starts to rot the rubber lines and seals on top of oxidizing the metals inside all the brake system. Like you the proportioning valve had failed because of corrosion of the metals.

Just torqued mine and never thought about it again. No metal clips I left them out.

Like me up here the salt is killing trucks left and right. I've been using waste oil and spraying up in the body structure as much as a I could. Keeping the mud washed out of all the body drain is critical to good life.

@JAG1to start it and @IBMobile is there to shut it down. With a good joke!

Bosch are not as easy to rebuild. ND alternators are super simple to rebuild.

Need a new blower motor and blower resistor.

Cardboard in between the rad and cooler is dangerous. Your preventing air flow over the internet cooler. Under boost it could get hot in the manifold. Why I cover the grill not in between coolers.

I've got two Auto Trans 2nd Gen's in the yard right now. I'll go take a peak later on when the sun comes up.

All I'm using is a NAPA heater core nothing special. The aluminum style with the adjustable tubes. I'm only using a 190°F NAPA thermostat and no other mods to the cooling system. Like today I will remember to install my winter fronts. 160°F to 170°F out of the center vents. Running NAPA green anti-freeze mixed 50/50. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NRZNH9010015?partTypeName=Heater+Core NAPA ain't so bad when it cooking you out of the cab.

Might be heavier in weight total but more durable to road salt, and oxidizing agents that they spray on the highway. My stock aluminum mags were badly pitted and then cracked from all the heavy hauling I did. I swapped back to the early 2nd Gen factory steel wheels holding up much better and being the aluminum mag were 16 x 8 and the steel wheels are 16 x 7 they fit the 245's much better.

PCM is damaged. I've got a protection fuse mod to stop this issues. Still need to send the PCM in for repair. The blue wire should be +12V after crank signal is sensed. Then the green wire should be variable ground after crank signal sensed. My alternator shorted out and burned a hole right through the PCM's printed circuit board. @pepsi71oceanhad the same failure and his was repairable through @Auto Computer Specialist. The PCM master fuse is a 20A fuse. The problem is the circuit board can barely handle 5 to 7 amps before burning up. Hence the article was wrote up to stop the PCM damage. I'm running a 5A fuse and still going strong.

Change in the HVAC case layout.

Can't say that I have. It is strange it should throw a code if the circuit shorted or open.

Do you have a P1492 or P1493 codes?

If the shaft had to much play it would most likely be leaking.

B5 Biodiesel does not require 2 cycle oil. B2 Biodiesel has HFRR score better than 2 cycle oil.

Is the seal leaking around the shafts?

I've seen #1 and #3 of the top diagram being an issue with most of the trucks I deal with. Typically the plastic bushings and the plastic retainers to hold the shafts are worn out.

With my final ratio altered by the 245's I'm running. My tach hovers at 2k at most all speeds. I'm in of 4th gear (NV4500) by 25 MPH. At 66 MPH I'm a prefect 2k RPM's.

Back in my hypermling days I was pulling 600 to 700 miles a tank. My Max recorded MPG was 27.2 MPG hand math cruise set for 55 MPH that is top speed.

At least get back to 265/70 R17.