Mopar1973Man

I made a few tweaks to this tune. Since the pop pressure on my truck is higher my running cruise timing needs to be 21° at 2K RPM. I'm upped the cruise timing to 4° and so far I'm right at 19 MPG but the zero boost part came up just a weebit I run about 2 to 3 PSI at 65 MPH flat ground. This last two tanks I only got 17.84 and 17.06 MPG now after the change I used only half the amount of fuel to get back home from Lewiston this trip. I'm barely even a 1/8 tank down for 130 mile trip since the update to timing. I'll update the down load soon. Also I've had a quite a bit of idle time on that tank so its not a far number during winter. Also with the winterized diesel here is low in the BTUs with the high cetane. I kind of want to leave the first one alone so others of stockish pop pressure can play with. I'll post the update as 1.0.1 version. The other problem I tend to play once in awhile with out vehicles. Still a vicious tune from light to light. If the road are even lightly wet I have troubles getting the tires to stick. Like my last run to McCall for parts at NAPA climbing the 7% grade every corner you have to back down get around then I would lightly squeeze and the tires would hop and skip as the power came on. I'm restricted to levels 2 or 3 for the most part on Quadzilla just for traction reasons.

No, DAP no longer is selling Industrial Injection Pump. DAP is using Midwest Fuel Injection and one other rebuilder. I don't remember the name. Sorry. Just installed one of those yesterday in about 2 hours.

@JAG1 Be careful you have no idea what I'm capable of...

Yup exactly. Hence why my landlords truck blew the 150 Amp alternator fuse I installed while running his winch. Even though the alternator is only 136 Amp. As the batteries dropped in voltage being totally wore out it increase the current from a already tapped out alternator and blew the fuse out. Again batteries have more of the role of "storage of energy" to be redelivered to the electrical loads. Alternator is only to recharge the batteries NOT to sustain high loads. Being like myself got two WalMart batteries at 810 CCA that is 1,620 CCA if that can't sustain a winch for a time of pulling then I would say batteries are not doing there job. Even stock was 750 CCA for 1,500 CCA total. Yup, Even with 136 Amp stock alternator and weak batteries you can blow a 150 Amp fuse or circuit breaker. Just because the batteries are weak or no longer have the capacity for said loads. Again like even the rebuilder down in Nampa, ID told me the alternators are not to blame but weak connections, bad grounds, and weak batteries.

If you trailer socket has the door on it and the spring is work it should hold the plug locked in. Like mine I' lost the door when Russ push it in the shop. So now I've got to use a bungee cord and hook the hitch frame to keep it plugged in.

One to look for is a cracked pickup tube. I've seen 2 different truck now that fail after about 1/4 to 1/2 tank. The corrugated tube for the pick up could crack all one corrugated tube and its hard to spot.

Yup. I know. But just showing why...

@MoparMom had signs of Parkinson's before she passed on. Her right hand used to shake randomly at times. That is highly impressive. Mom's was very mild comparing but Wow that is a huge improvement for others!

The biggest thing was I been reducing loads (mechanical and electrical) on the vehicle completely. Electrically, I switched over to HID headlight which are half the load (35 watts - 2.9 Amps) but 4 times brighter lighting (4,000 lumens vs 860 lumen halogen) and my driving lights are 4,000 lumen LED which draw a mere (18 watts - 1.5 Amps). The rest of the exterior lights are swapped over to LED. I've got the interior light for cab done but not for the cluster yet. Hence I don't need a monster alternator now being most of the electrical loads have been reduced. Heck just the red LEDs in the taillights are only 0.5 Watts for a mere 0.041 amps... What do I need a monster alternator for? I use to run four 100 watt aircraft landing lights. These draw a bit over 20 amps. Then it was set up for 2 on hi beam and 2 on lo beam. Then got into the silverstar headlights which were pretty hoot and draw quite a bit of power on hi beams. Just remember bigger alternator, bigger loads on the engine. Again I'm aiming to reduce all loads on the engine and electrical system not add to it. Less loads at any time mean better MPG's and going farther on a gallon of fuel.

Never had any suspension or steering issues. Now steering boxes can be mis-adjusted. I got mine from Blue Top and had just bit too much slop for my taste. Like Ryan told me there is no way to adjust a box on the bench and set sector adjustment perfect. He tends to be on the loose side. I added about 3/4 of a turn tighter and problem is gone. Tight box. After 350k miles my box was still tight and in excellent condition. Only needed at new input shaft because rust pitted the shaft caused the leak. Life continues on the repaired BLue Top... 426k.

Diode in the store are direct replacements. No difference in ratings. Like most alternator rebuilders told me is not the diode being weak but wiring, batteries, and bad grounds. These problems tend to add the stress on the diodes to make up for bad connections or weak batteries.

Hey now... only the people doing illegal activity should be responsible. I might be pro Trump but, I do not approve of treaspassing or vandalism. Also look at the fact it all them went home. Not like all the racial riots that happen back last summer that went on for days.

No not that I know of. We have the most current flash for V2 in the Download section.

Matter of fact I do have a 2006 that needs this fuse box or the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module). Let me know what options you have on that I could have this sold very quickly.

I had mine even spit out a shot of power steering fluid once on my floor mat too but never seen it again after changing power steering fluid.

Yup, I see a lot of that between the larger cities like Lewiston and Boise. Very true. I've heard nicknames for this style and its something I can't repeat here.

Yeah high idling with help a bunch being the alternator isn't designed to max charge rate for idle speeds. Just need 1,200 RPM to reach a good RPM. This will help pull air through the alternator and the diodes to keep them cool. This is part of the reason behind the high idle kit I build was to kick up the RPM's to keep the engine warm on cold days and also to get the alternator up from idle to keep it cool under load. Since I did the W-T ground mod, I not had to replace an alternator since. Between jump staring dead vehicles, etc. I will again admit that I don't have a winch on my truck, but have had to power a lot of dead vehicles in my 426k miles.

Now actually try it... Being I had my stock aluminum mags crack I bought a set of modular mags 16x7 wheels but the offset was wrong and the tires stuck out a mere 1 inch. Now couple that with 3 days a week driving over 1,100 miles. With in just about 15 miles the side windows are covered in so much mud, road grit you can't see out your side windows to look in the mirrors to change lanes. This is why I went hunting for the early 2nd Gen wheels that are 16x7 with proper offset to get the tires back under the fenders. No longer have this issue the road grime is now only on the doors not on the glass. So for all them with them hanging out they never really drove there truck like I have and I just giggle and laugh when I see one with the windows out washed out with road grime.

Engine oil will hold up the longest. Just look when you have an oil leak and its scattered to the rear bump it takes forever to was off. Now diesel fuel is light oil and typically wash off in a short time. Blend the diesel and engine oil and be on the thick side will work the best. This si poor man way but better than doing nothing.

Lets say all the braces I found out traces are just hanging weight and no longer used. My landlord at my other shop had one but the bearing failed. I took one off a 1 ton Dodge which the box was still sloppy. I used this steering box while my Blue Top was rebuilt (bad shaft with a nick in it which kept damaging the seals). Myself I've never used or needed a brace. I've never used over sized tires. I'm all stock sized (Early 2nd Gen). Where the problem comes in is over sized tires. The amount of force needed to steering the tires on the front axle takes quite a bit of force which pushes or pulls on the pitman arm. Hence why the output seal will fail. Since I'm technically undersized I upgrade to a "Quick Ratio" steering box and still don't the brace. Blue Top Steering Box ((Quick Ratio) No brace used in 426k miles. Stock steering box last 350k miles. Running on 245/75 R16 tires (30.5 Inch)

Actually wasn't the alternator but the batteries that caused this. If your batteries where up to the task the load should of been handled just fine. Since the batteries was not the voltage starts to fall and then the current starts to rise. Being the working load will always be the same. I just seen this very same problem at my other shop. My landlord truck =he was winching a vehicle on a trailer and blew the alternator fuse. (W-T ground mod). It's not the alternator or fuse that failed but the batteries that are so weak the voltage drops instantly under load. Now the alternator is ramping up to max flow and diodes got hot and started popping. Even if you upped the alternator with weak batteries it will do the same thing again because the batteries dropped out so fast under load. Just for fun say the winch is 2,800 watt load (200 amp) with good batteries. 2,800 watts = 14 volt x 200 amps Now batteries are weak and winch is used... 2,800 watts = 11 volts x 254 amps <- this is a 54 Amp jump from just the batteries being weak. Being the alternator can't hold those load directly the heat wipes out the diodes. It not the alternator job to hold the massive load but the batteries. Hence why grid heaters can wipe out alternators when its either 95 amps for a single and 190 amps for dual elements. Same problem. It's not the alternator but the batteries...

Because Joe Biden has mental issues and had at least 2 brain bleeds taken care of. https://moodyneuro.org/joe-biden-is-a-survivor/

@Sycostang67 are you running a quick ratio or standard ratio box? You should only be using a standard ratio steering box.

Remember the pop pressure only controls the starting point of injection at what pressure. Both HO and SO pump can reach upwards above 18,000 PSI. Like my injectors being raised in pop helped for efficiency and longevity but it makes the timing late so ive got to add more timing on the Quadzilla.

Hence why I did a custom 7 x 0.010 popped to 320 bar. Will admit I had studder and idle issues on SACs vs VCO injectors. My current are VCOs.