Mopar1973Man

That's why I love being here in the forest of Idaho less BS. Less crowds. Less problems. Most city folk can't handle the life out here. I've got my weapons, food, self contained power and water. Do not require city services at all. Like this morning its snowing in McCall and something happened and the power went out briefly. The inverter kicked in instantly and still here at the computer. Even got fuel (gasoline and diesel) on the property nothing is going to slow me down much. I don't expect much to happen out here but watching the bigger cities like Los Angeles, CA fall apart...

Then my 3 articles about this topic.

Already strike one with the wait start light. Strike two with the WOT after starting. I'm betting you have not done the W-T ground wire mod? Then I'm also betting your alternator has excessive AC noise issues?

I've got plenty of weapons, Thank You...

Turns on the blue wire and green both with tach signal. I'm going to bet your alternator shorted out the blue lead like mine did and fried the PCM. The PCM is protected by a 20 amp fuse and the circuit board can't handle the full 20 amp short. The PCM circuit board burns up. Mine was so bad the fiberglass burn away (physical hole in the board) there was nothing to fix. Still going to need to have the PCM tested and repaired. (Thumb nail is a picture of another members damage!) I did create a fix for protecting that so it never happens again.

Gotta ask a few questions? Does the WAIT TO START light come on instantly? Does it still do it with the Edge Comp removed? What does the live data tool show the TPS value to be with just the key on? Does the TPS show normal reaction without the engine running?

This is what the scientist wear to protect themselves from COVID-19... But hey your little cloth mask will do just fine.

Happy New Years to all the family here... The only thing that has me seriously worried is the simple fact Biden is coming into office and he's not all mentally there up stairs and a few fries short of a "Happy Meal".

Head bolt tightening after you do the first lap around its super simple to keep track. Starting from the center and working in a circular pattern growing larger with each pass. I've gotten to the point I do this with about everything. Exhaust manifolds same thing start in the center work your way out.

Just remember that your battery life span will be greatly shortened. The old school voltage regulators like your one wire and the old school Mopar Voltage Regulator does not monitor battery temperature so it really easy to have that alternator boil the electrolytes out of the battery. At least the Mopar Regulator does have some temperature regulation but all depends on the under hood temperature for the voltage supplied. I would suggest getting back to the PCM if possible. Battery temp sensor does actually does a great job of preventing battery from boiling or loss of electrolyte.

Well last few I've picked up from HF. Don't do any plastic creepers mine was only rated for 230 pounds at the time I killed the plastic one I just crossed over 240 pounds. I've got another one from HF which is steel framed and padded back board with tilt head rest, not bad. Part that sucks is it seems to be always falling apart screws and bolts loosening up.

Out here the whole mask this is optional. Go to any bigger town or city like McCall, Boise, etc. All required masks. Still see many people without mask being worn.

Not so much the air flow but the washing rains.

Stay up and played AD&D with @Jthor and @Wet Vette last night lasted to about 10pm then started to fall asleep.

I pull the fuel drain off of my landlord truck. (Other Shop). I used a T15 and just pull it off and change the 2 o-rings in the valve. Re-assembled and installed again just cost me about 10 minutes and 2 o-rings from my A/C stuff.

Just gotta smell the sweet smell and know that the heater core is done. If the glass is fogging the glass then you for sure have a bad heater core.

Yeah... I've destroyed my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon from lifting and oversized tires. Even since I figured it all out now. I get plenty of chances of driving other peoples truck most all of them with lifts and oversized tires have issues with lane centering and darting issues just like this 2005. Hence the owner brought to my shop because he's burned up two steering box in a very short time I found out. Like my 2006 Dodge is on 18 wheels (275/70 R18 - 33 inch tires) even this truck has a 2 inch leveling kit too, and this truck doesn't hold center good, darty and lack lane centering the last time I drove the truck. I'm going to ditch those 18 inch wheels find some stock 17 inch wheel and pull the leveling kit out as well. I plan on making that 2006 into my service truck and tow rig. If I get a job where I might travel to say @JAG1 place with the RV towed to his place and then have all the tools on the truck I could do about anything then.

Again Quadzilla Tip. Figure your max timing out first. Then stack your cruise timing on top. Figure like I do in the winter time with high cetane I've got to back off the timing since the fuel lights super easy. Here is what I would suggest. This is a +4° step timing starting at 13°. 1,500 RPM - 13° 2,000 RPM - 17° 2,500 RPM - 21° 3,000 RPM - 25° Now figure your cruise timing on top. Set your Light throttle Timing Adv. for +2° will give you 19° at 2k RPM. 1,500 RPM - 13° +2 = 15° 2,000 RPM - 17° +2 = 19° 2,500 RPM - 21° +2 = 23° 3,000 RPM - 25° +2 = 27° As for the cruise timing for load value I usually watch my flat ground engine load at 65 MPH cruise set and then maybe at the most add 2% on top. I float about 19% to 20% engine load right now. Add the +2 to that and now the cruise limit is 22% then it drops to the load based timing. This should get you started...

So... What happened I bought a Blue Top (Quick Ratio) Steering box. So fast forward to about year later the output shaft seal started to leak. I ask Ryan to send me a seal kit for it. Took the pitman arm off and pull the output shaft out. Once I got the shaft out I notice a small ding in the shaft right at the seal line. During this time I was still running @MoparMomto dialysis. I figured if the leak came back up again I would call Ryan. The problem returns again... I called Ryan and explain what was going on. He warranty the pump for me. Needless to say it took 2 week for a large flat rate box to ship from Idaho to North Dakota. Then Ryan only took a few moments to fix the pump and get it back in the mail. Then problem is again taking another 2 weeks for his flat box to come back 1 month of waiting for mail. So yes mine was a PITA. As for the one I'm currently working on is a 2005 Dodge with 35 inch tires and wiped out the steering box. Not to mention this same truck needs a set of injectors.

Only thing is the oil will rot rubber parts. Be careful about rubber things like sway bar mounts, etc.

I'm sure enjoying the fact that I'm no longer driving 1,100 miles a week. Yeah I'm stuck driving either to Lewiston or Ontario for most stuff. Local stores have gone up in prices. Even fuel price in the valley is high. So we attempt to round up every ones shopping list and make a full day of getting supplies about every other week. Yeah it was nice when I was running @MoparMomback and forth I could do shopping and part gather every other day. (Tues, Thurs, Sat.).

Seems to be my garage today... I get to lay in the snow and pull a steering box off a 3rd Gen truck for Ryan @Blue-Top Steering. I don't want to commit my shop to a vehicle that I gotta wait for parts to be ship in for rebuild and then ship back for install. Mine just getting my steering box sent back to Ryan and fix under warranty it still took one month for turn around time. So, off to work I go with about 6 inches of snow on the ground.

Like fuel prices out here are about $2.709 for diesel. On my last trip to Lewiston, ID I saw $2.409 at the Indian reservation. Good price then drop into Lewiston its $2.559.

Talk to @Me78569 he's already done the stand alone controller for VGT turbo and made it all work on a 2nd Gen 24V engine actually reading the ECM through the CANBus plug. Exhaust brake and and full control of the vanes.

Touche` Just like you I've gotta duct tape your hands to the chair arms. If you let this man loose near my bolt pile he will make sure the entire can of bolts is stuffed in his charge air pipe. @JAG1would pick up a bolt and ask "where does this go?" the proceed to drop it and of course doesn't make it to the floor. After several moments of hunting I found the bolt in the intercooler on the drivers side.