Mopar1973Man

Man I'm getting rather wore out on everything being late and held up because of COVID... I know I posted this on a few other threads. Like @Wet Vette ask me to fix the old dish washer in the house. I did a few simple repairs of the float switch and the water line. Got it to run once again last for about 2 weeks and then the motor locked up. I tore apart the pump head and found a scrubby pads wound up in the pump head. Clean it up and it last another wash or two and then the bearing froze up in the motor. Ok. We both agree to replace the dishwaher. Head to Home Depot and looking at dishwashers and there is huge sales on some quality units. We got our eyes set on a LG that is all stainless steel body and door. Caught the black friday sales and now reduced to $498. Asked if there any units in stock. NOPE. I pay the bill and found out it will not come in till FEBRUARY!!! What?! OK... COVID... OK. Another common repair is replacing a fan belt on a 2003 Dodge Dakota. Called the local NAPA store. Typically if they don't have it the store they can get it from Spokane by the next day. NOPE. They had to get it from another store in another state outside the normal travels. So its takes 1.5 weeks to get a fan belt. OK. Now I've got my steering box pulled out and shipping it back to Blue Top for rebuilding. Got it down to the US Post Office for shipping in a flat rate box which is normally 2 or 3 days. NOPE day 4 and notifying it will be late and still in transit. Man just to get a steering box from here to Blue top is now taking a week just about. UGH. Still got to wait on the return trip after he gets the part and ships me a new one. Now my truck is trapped in my shop till I get the new unit. I can move my truck till I do. OK. Another one. I got a job on a 1995 Ford Powerstroke that need a pedal assembly rebuilt. I found a guy in Arizona that rebuilds pedal assemblies and he got the old one and notified me that was the worst one he's ever rebuilt. Now he called me last week telling me he was shipping it back I'm still waiting on the rebuilt unit to get back. This is making job super long. As your seeing I'm super done with all the COVID issues in the world and its making my job slow and just can't get anything done being parts are just tough to get and get them shipped in a timely fashion.

Alternator could be hook to a shorted battery and still won't blow during normal run. Fuse is 140 Amps and the alternator is 136 Amp Wide Open Throttle. Hence why the grid heater come on demand 195 amp (both elements) and alternator does not blow the fuse or trip the breaker. Now say your front end collision and the alternator snapped off the mount slammed into the block that would be a dead short on the charge lead now the battery will out power the fuse and blow, not the alternator. Being the batteries total are 1500 amps (or more) with both batteries (stock CCA). See the battery cause the fuse to blow not the alternator. Being the alternator on high idle still can reach 136 Amp with the grid heaters but doesn't blow the fuse or breaker. Not suppose too... Technically the grid heater are a dead short of sorts being that it draws 195 amps (both elements) at 14.0 volts that is 0.071 ohms. Yeah that's a in a nutshell is a controlled short that creates roughly 400*F to 500*F temps in the manifold.

Bingo. I've done that already with ground cable and positive cables on my own trucks. One of the few reason I'm getting 9 to 11 years out of my batteries because the charging system 99% efficient. Then add in that I've reduced my electrical loads with LED lights and HID headlights so no the diodes stay cooler and alternator temps are down as well. This why I challenge the "ground jumper" between batteries be even adding that same jumper using jumper cables there is no change in voltage drop to the block period. Before adding I've got 3mV (0.003 volt) drop between block and the either battery. Add jumper cables to both battery grounds still measure 3mV (0.003 volts). Voltage drop test is way I test for cable resistance or loss. Anything over 0.2 Volts is a fail for sure. 3mV (0.003 volt) loss is not even on the radar as a problem. For some of these older truck that have been abused and let the terminals corrode, oxidize, etc. Then if you measure 0.2 volt drop on any cable regardling the charge circuit or main battery cables its a fail without thinking. I would REPLACE any cables at that point that don't meet the mark. DO NOT ADD extra grounds or paralell cables to fix a bad cable. Fix the bad cable first. Then retest again.

Your case the battery shorted out and overheated the alternator. Hence why the alternator was hot, and the fuse connection was hot. Still in all the alternator is only 136 Amps so it will never charge any more than that period even with a dead short. That fuse will never blow. Now if the diodes shorted to ground, like you mention in the PM with @W-T yes it does cover the shorted stator and shorted to ground diode. But it does not protect the armature which burns up the PCM voltage regulator circuit.

Cummins is just as bad I paid $132 dollars for mine. One of my reason for not buying Cummins parts. Then top it of for 6 connector tubes I was quote a crazy high price like $67 a connector tube. There is way cheaper solutions for even the pigtail. I could get the plug numbers on Mouser and then order a 2001 MAP plug and just cut off the old 2002 plug and wire in a 2001 plug and its a permanent solution. Being the 2002 MAP sensor and plugs are no longer produce why keep mess around with old pigtails... Wire it once and never look back.

Amazon way better you can just about pick the day you want it.

No that not what is for again...The fuse or circuit breaker is not for overcharging alternator. It to stop the circuit flow if thew alternator shorts out.

Dorman's Engine Air Intake Heater Relays for '94-'02 Dodge Cummins trucks effectively controls the intake heater. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Solutions-904-308-Intake-Heater/dp/B00Z7O4M4Y/ (Cheaper yet!) $49.95

Not good if the diodes happen to short to ground for what ever reason. (Poof! up in smoke). Why I still got that 150A circuit breaker.

The stock OEM lasted 180k miles. Back then I was still running 265's. Since then I dropped to 235's tires and now later on yet switch to 245's tires. Never ran large tires since then. Ditch the aluminum wheel for stock steel wheels that are 16 x 7 wheels slightly smaller, the aluminum mags were 16 x 8.

When I'm doing a oil change typically... I will park the truck in the shop and pop the drain on the pan. Then I move on to lubing the steering and suspension linkage. I will jack each side up and pry a bit to see if there is excessive play in anything. Tie rods, track bar, ball joints etc. If anything is wore or looks to be getting loose then I just replace it. My problem is everything on my truck last a long time. Ball joints are going past 200k miles now (cheap RockAuto). Track bars yeah don't last nearly as long but still good life span. Little trick for future info... Sharing my shop tricks. After my little ball joint explosion. I realize that you don't have to press the old joint out in one piece. You can cut the cap end off with a saw, grinder (cutoff wheel), or a torch. Then push the ball stud out. Then using a hacksaw do a relief cut in the cup body strike the cup on each side and it falls out. Then you can take a hone brush and hone the hole out just a little to remove the rust and junk. Now lube it up with plenty of anti-seize and press the new one back in. Much easier way. Half the time as usual. Just like next wheel joints (u-joints in the axle) I will just take a torch and cut the cross out and let it fall out and then drive the bearing cups inward till they fall out. Then using a hone brush again and clean up the holes a little bit and press in new u-joints. I learned this with the 3rd gens and there crappy way of using plastic to hold the bearing caps in place. Just another way to do the same job.

Yup... just updated the alternator part listing.

Sound like something wrong in the hydroboost to go both ways. Like the spool value is stuck why the brakes are lock. I'll keep my hydrobooster and just rebuild it. Already done one. Not bad but be aware of the input rod seal you might need to cut and weld the rod.

I see it being great for leveled trucks but I don't see it lasting any longer than solid track bar.

Not all... just this piece was a Federal Mogul. Ive seen some that is Moog too, like the upgrade tie rods.

Apps sensor will always throw a code if out of range. But a bad apps won't make it buck. But excessive timing in the 1500 range and light throttle will.

Beautiful thing about Linux... PDF documents are automatically displayed no software required. Doing you a favor I downloaded it and then uploaded to this message for ya. 686356pdf.pdf

Replace the entire track bar about every 100k to 150k so. Why bother with changing the bushing just replace the entire track bar. By 100 to 150k miles I just replace it take only like 15 mintues. Just checked NAPA there is a option for $104... Then the premium I would guess is $209... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCG2724229

Try backing down your timing. Try starting out at 13 degrees in the 1,500 RPM band.

Weight is weight... Doesn't matter put it on the scale and weigh it out. Weigh is on everything ground, tires, suspension, frame etc.

Absolutely correct... 60 PSI all the way around will hold... using stock tire information (265's, 245's or 235's) 60 PSI / 80 PSI (max) = 0.75 x 3042 (capacity) = 2,281 pounds x 4 tires = 9,126 pounds. <- If all 4 tires inflated to 60 PSI. 55 PSI / 80 PSI (max) 0.6875 x 3042 (capacity) = 2,091 pounds x 4 tires = 8,364 pounds <- If all 4 tires inflated to 55 PSI. 50 PSI / 80 PSI (max) 0.625 x 3042 (capacity) = 1,901 pounds x 4 tires = 7,605 pounds <- If all 4 tires inflated to 50 PSI. Remember 2500 series has a max vehicle capacity of 8,800#

Injectors are getting weak but still rather good being your above 0% engine load yet. Like mine are even starting to slip a bit too. Nothing last forever, especially injectors. All the truck I've seen so far have 0% engine load and the idle speed is above 800 RPM. Those are wiped out. All the 3rd gen other I've looked at require ether or starting fluid to start or difficult to start and no smoke. Yup injectors are fired. Difference is 03 and up just better have close to $4,000 in your pocket. As for 24V somewhere around $300 to 400 to replace.

Spamming link is not welcomed... My personally suggestion is go with the truck with least amount of miles or the owner can prove he's changed the injectors before the sale of the truck or he's willing to drop price so you can replace injectors.

Why I went with a full AirDog. Prefilter before the pump. Then a 3um after the pump. Majority of the fuel returned to the tank at the AirDog so this mean I'm polishing my fuel before even the stock filter gets it. There is a 7um filter in there. No screens in my fuel tank just draw straw. My first screen is on the AirDog...

You links have been removed spamming isn't welcomed here.