Mopar1973Man

Is your ground hooked up in the fuse box as well? No my fender at the hood hinge. No need for running to the battery I've got roughly a 0.003 (3mV Drop) from body to battery ground. Very acceptable for ground purpose.

Tappet cover is the most common and easiest gasket to blow out. I'll tell you it MUCH easier taking the extra time to remove the injection pump to do the job right.

Couldn't tell ya... I'm part of the "Quadzilla Beta Test Team" so no cost to me. I've already got to play with new stuff for the Quadzilla coming soon.

Read you codes with OBDII coder reader. P0500 is just speed sensor performance (rear axle). P1693 is a companion module code (flag). ABS does not report any codes on the OBDII plug unless you have the DRBIII tool or similar. Typically you should be able to then OFF the Warm Up mode then Turn OFF the High idle Delay. Then Level zero is just stock. You should really need level zero only for warm up. I typically level mine stat for Level 2 or 3. Now my warm up mode is set for 140*F. Then my delay is 30 seconds. After the coolant reaches 140 the Quadzilla flips from level ZERO to Levle 2 or 3 which I have set. You can see exactly how to disable the high idle here. Warm Up mode is switched off. High idle delay is switched OFF. Now select a power level other than ZERO. High idle will not start ever. Now if you have the Cummins ECM high idle enabled it will start regardless of what you set on the Quadzilla. I've got both systems. Cummins ECM High Idle Quadzilla High Idle Now the ECM high idle there is no way to stop it from starting. It's triggered by the ECT and IAT temperatures. ECT has to be below !40*F and IAT has to be below 32*F with the grid heater ON! Then the Cummins ECM will start 6 cylinder high idle. If the IAT falls to below +15*F it will switch over to 3 cylinder node high idle which warms up much faster. Faster than Quadzilla can.

Last 8 years I've owned mine I've never disconnected before jumping my truck or another truck. Never had any problem till a while back I found my ground wire come loose at the bolt I had it on create a huge problem with engine performance (studdering, low power, CEL light, etc.). I had Quadzilla replace my moduel it but to find out the problem was a loose ground. So technically I've never really had a Quadzilla fail yet. I even reported this back to Quadzilla because it was such a weird case. Now we all know to double check that ground wire. Being we were constantly checking +12V and Keyed +12V.

Yup need to do a voltage drop test of the main cables. Bad starter contacts can do the same thing. You'll hear the pinion pop out but no starter spin. Bad starter solenoid fuse will do the same thing click and nothing. Engine oil protects the terminals from corroding at all. 18 year old truck and the battery terminals are near new yet. DRIVER SIDE PASSENGER SIDE

That's what weird... Now you got me scratching my head be cause no main computers (ECM or PCM) use body grounds. (G100) ECM is grounded on G125 PCM is grounded on G123 G100 shown below.

Naturally happens over the life a a battery they do not hold a perfect 800 or 850 CCA every day for ever. The slowly weaken that CCA number slow grows smaller. By the time I replace my battery they are most likely like 400 CCA (Total of 800 CCA for the pair) still starts and runs but if you needed that extended time to crank in cold weather, not happening. Heck these batteries are already a year old now and I'm sure there are no longer 810 CCA a piece maybe more like 790-800 CCA a piece as the batteries age.

Typically the PCM is in control of the lockup issue and it ground is the passenger battery terminal. I splits off and goes to the driver side for ECM and VP44. The other runs back towards the firewall for the PCM. All the other body grounds are subsystem like the one near the driver battery is mostly lighting and the ABS computer on that one.

I'm unlucky because my water line are outside the house to clear the slide. Mine will not tolerate any temperature below 30*F. I will freeze the water lines. After last summer wind storm that pull the belly off my kitchen tank cover I've got a few repairs to make. Now my old 1977 Dodge Jamboree I done plenty of camping all the way down to zero. The water tank was one of the benches at the table all the plumbing was inside the house. That one I did a trip down to -10*F and never had a problem.

Absolutely nothing is tied to my batteries except the alternator charge lead to the passenger battery and the ground lead added on the driver side battery. Everything else is hooked up in the PDC from the red lead in there. DRIVER SIDE BATTERY PASSENGER BATTERY NOW LOOKING INSIDE THE PDC. No rotten connection, no acid problems, no inference for jumper cables. No forgotten wires to hook back up to the batteries.

Kind of like my landlord at my other shop "batteries are ok they still start in the morning." Both test bad and was causing all kinds of issues with winch usage blowing the fuse out of the alternator and burning up alternators left and right over heating the diodes in the alternator. Just from weak batteries. Now after testing both batteries which failed and replaced them no longer any issues... Hmmm... Weird how that happens...

Umm... My local NAPA has a modern alternator test stand that does AC ripple voltage. Just in this order... Bosch or ND alternator (136A) -> Circuit Breaker (150A) -> Passenger Battery Passenger side POSITIVE Post.

Yeah right now Lewiston, ID has snow and its 750 feet above sea level... I'm just too far into the northern freezer period. I've got to wait till late March for chance to get out now.

As in remove the alternator take it to a shop of any type that can test for AC ripple voltage. Then while your there take both batteries in and have tested. If one is weaker than the other replace them both. Really common for one battery to fail and the other attempts to hold the rest of the system up.

I would still test both batteries and the alternator... Might look good but testing will really tell the true story.

Pull both batteries and have tested, if any batteries fails replace BOTH BATTERIES! Pull the alternator have it tested. If the the alternator fails the AC ripple test replace. Clean and check all main cables and check voltage drop. Like myself main ground cables have 0.003 to 0.005 (3 to 5 mV DC drop). If the W-T ground wire mod isn't done you best do it now. This will stop that entire mess in this one mod. Once you do the W-T ground wire mod you won't need an upgraded alternator. I'm still running factory alternators, the only different thing I've done is reduced alternator loading with Morimoto HID headlights (2.5 Amps), PIAA LED Driving Lights (1 Amp), and all exterior lights are LEDs now. Even the interior lights are LED inside the cab, still got to do the cluster lights yet. Eventually I remember to change my fuses in the cab and PDC to smaller fuses being taillights are like (1 amp) DC light up being each bulb is like 250 mA (0.25 amps).

Dirty power (bad alternator diodes, bad alternator brushes, etc.) is typically number one cause of burnt up electronics. Then bad grounds there is the W-T ground mod mentioned above on the page that clean up a ton of AC noise issues. I'm still using that little spade piece yet like 8 years now. I know the old problem was jump starting vehicles it would burn up the Quadzilla module from low voltage issues. Just remember if voltage goes low the loads typically remain constant so to make up for the lower voltage amps will rise quickly to make up. Weak batteries during startup could do damage just as easy. Everything pulling on the batteries grid heater, starter, and all the typically computer coming on line and attempting to start the truck if the voltage is dropping below 10.5 Volts its a problem. Good batteries shouldn't drop below 11.0 cranking cold first start of the day.

Right now the temperature dropped so low its not going to happen with my RV. If it would hover in the 40's I could get away with camping. I lost a big chunk of the under belly panel on my last Arizona trip. Wind tore it off. Just my kitchen grey tank cover. In design it was suppose to be heated holding tanks using the furnace blowing small amounts of air in the enclosed spaces. I need to jack this thing up and pull the remaining cover and measure and get a new piece for the tanks.

Now you see why I do most of my shopping in Lewiston, ID or Ontario, OR. We prefer Lewiston better. Less crowds and easier to get around. McCall is a tourist trap town which has its own sale tax rate too. Typically like me my sales tax is 6% go to McCall every is 7%. Then if you want to see big jump go to Stanley, ID it 9% sales tax. Ontario, OR is ZERO sale tax, and Washington is 6.5% sale tax rate. I could drive for 6 hours round trip and still save more money in Lewiston/Clarkson than staying home and shopping local. Last trip took mere 5 gallons of fuel to get home. Fuel is even cheaper its right at 3.009 here locally for diesel head to the Indian reservation outside of Lewiston it was a mere 2.509 a gallon. WinCo is on the Idaho side where Costco and Walmart are on the Clarkston side. The other bonus typically the weather in Lewiston is warmer being its 750 feet above sea level. Gives us a day of being in the warmer weather typically. Now that Texas is froze up everything in Lewiston is a icy mess too.

Your close to what I'm running which is 22° @ 2500 RPM. Basically started at 13° and stepped up +4.5° per band. I've got another tune I need to test some day which I stepped +4.6° per band.

Sad, but true.

When your too retarded the engine sounds silent there isn't any rattle per say. When you over advanced the truck will buck then getting more aggressive there could be backfiring. Optimally watch over your timing and the engine load when you hit the sweet spot the engine load will drop considerable. The other is if you have the trans temp set up for engine oil temp as you get to advancing too much you'll see oil temp rise quickly. Engine coolant typically starts to rise too.

You want to build to what you plan on for road speed. Typically I build for 55 to 65 MPH. Now measure your flat rolling engine load limit now add maybe +2% to that number so it stays in cruise timing without bumping out with every roll of the hill. Just don't add much more timing than about 19* at 2,000 RPM. Cruise timing is good to have on flat ground but make sure it cancels once the truck starts pulling a grade. Low boost is the best way to run with cruise timing, you don't want high boost and added timing it would start breaking things. It could be your MAX timing is a bit too high and then stacking on either the retard (Max Load Timing) 2* which is dropping you to 12* in the 1,500 RPM band. Then once you jump to light load and gain timing your stepping back up to 16* in cruise state for the 1,500 RPM band. Look at both ways because if you step above 30% engine load your timing retards the -2* that you set vs engine load. Then when the engine load drops below 30% now your adding +2* to the MAX Timing value. I will say each and every truck has it own sweet spot for timing some like more retard and other like mine like more advancement. This is based mostly on the cetane (high cetane ignites easier!) of fuel and the pop pressure (higher the pop pressure the later the timing) set on the injectors and where the are at in life. This is one reason I set the span between 5 and 15 PSI at 100% fuel this allows for normal daily driver without having to drop the power level. I know that my wire tap and my fuel map ramp up together at the same time. Compared to you wire tap is starting out at 5 PSI. Fuel map is well above 100% at 8 PSI. Way I'm set up now is seriously crazy power. being the fuel map start climbing fairly hard past 15 PSI and the wire tap is set for 15 PSI and it start ramping up together. Now the tires turn to smoke and the truck is gone. You can do a similar setup for your towing tune and just move the wire tap and everything above 100% later in time. This way gives a nice wide area of stockish fuel map without adding a ton of EGT heat.

Correct. Just the prefix "4" separates the Wix and NAPA numbers.