Mopar1973Man

Thanks for the photos those where good.

Post heat is controlled by the battery temp sensor and the IAT but more so the battery temp sensor. As for suck on check the solenoids and see if the power is still applied to the trigger while stuck on. If so the contact arced together and fused.

Hard to tell sometimes people have tires sizes in the signature but then on the other side when they don't post tire sized I tend to assume there is oversized tires possible being majority of people do run larger wheels and tires.

Yup I kind of figure there was something a miss. ABS is really fussy about being lied to with oversized tires and improper tone ring values.

Bad connection with probes or the wrong AC voltage level.

Was the engine running? Typically all diodes give off just a little bit of noise. Like even my truck floats like 9mV to 11mV AC.

Just had the fuel drain on my landlord truck start leaking and did a o-ring rebulid on his stock fuel filter. After installing 3 different size o-rings it stopped leaking. Then he turns to me and said, "In all these year I've never opened that drain why would it be leaking now?" It's fixed and drained out. Now getting his started it took a Cummins to crank over a Cummins. Yeah I had to drag him through the yard to get his started. My laundry list is growing again. Mine I need to get start on my steering without fail I need my truck ready for snow time. Lucky for now its only raining.

Local NAPA up here sells expensive MAP sensors. Should be good quality...

Bruneel Tire In McCall was my FIRST time for my truck at 350k miles after doing tie rod ends.$60 bucks and good as gold...

I've used compressed air one time and just vacuum it back off. Another weird one I had to forceifully over charge a system to get the compressor to show its leak around the body seals once it was over charge and more liquid in the system it start to slowly push out after it sat for the night.

Still no where to go... Heck go run Firebird quarter mile...

Another spot that is common for leaks but shows no signs of leak is the compressor shaft seal will leak but the pullet will sling off any oil or dye so its tough to diagnose that one too. Bad o-rings or too small of o-rings can leak too and sometimes not show dye either. If you do change o-ring make sure to have a bottle of PAG oil and lube the o-ring before snapping connections back together again. I've seen replacement parts like condensers and evaporators with the wrong sized o-rings too. Do you have enough oil in the system? Lack of oil sometimes can dry o-rings out a bit and allow them to leak the freon out without much dye because of lack of oil to push the dye around.

I'm still on the old style Y steering (OEM parts). I know there is a few on hear that have done the T style steering.

Watched the same video but the HVAC case is NOT the same. There is nothing to remove and the duct is much larger and square shaped. EDIT: Yeah I see it now I went back out and spotted the screws hidden in a weird spot so not chance I'll get number 7 done... I didn't spot it because it was getting late and dark out already and couldn't see it. Now I see it in the daylight and above and below there is a small sheet metal screws.

The overfill on NV5600 I feel is because PenzOil Syncromesh is too thin. Is so thin it does NOT meet the GL-4 rating and its not synthetic so failure is much more common.

I'm going to need to either take the solenoid off the top or pull the engine a long way over to the passenger just to gain another 2 inches to pull it completely out.

I never over fill anymore being that causes foaming of the fluid. I use the Mobil 50 SAE trans fluid being its THICKER (90 weight gear oil) and clings to the bearing and gears better. I've never had bad shift so far after going through 2 bad sets of syncros. It is a synthetic fluid and GL-4. No issues to report. The factory 75w-85 was too expensive so after talking to my transmission builder he suggest the Mobil 50 long time ago. Abe @ Weller Truck, Boise Idaho - (208) 331-1061 https://www.google.com/search?q=weller+truck+boise

No parts throwing when I did it...

Dang... I don't want to have to pull engine mounts to lift it on that side or take the heater case off the firewall. Some say there is no issue and some are puzzled how to remove that #7 injector. Myself I pulled it up and tried rotating all the way around and there is just no position you can gain enough room. The only thing I can think of is pull the the solenoid on top of the injector but kind of freaked that there is a spring or something in there under tension. Don't need parts flying around not knowing what's under the solenoid cover.

Love too really but I'm not hooked up with any groups right now that are running any dynos that I know off. I've ran it YEARS ago and made 381/831 with Edge Comp (5x5) and stock injectors. Like I said you can be really close. Started a challenge with a friend and he was below me in power all he did was backed off the rollers into the parking lot and removed the outter duals wheel and got back up on the rollers and re-dynoed again and beat me by 5 HP. The winner was a 1997 Dodge Ram 3500...

I would opt to keep the NV4500. More common and less to rebuld. Just remember I pay only $1,800 for rebuild for each of these failures. NV5600 are closer to $4,500 a rebuild. Even with me breaking all the teeth off the 5th gear and then snapping the mainshaft in half I would never upgrade to NV5600 transmission. 423k miles and still running the NV4500 but with brass syncros and Mobil 50 SAE Trans Fluid GL-4. Yeah I've even burned up 2 sets of brass syncros (defective). Still way cheaper to fix a NV4500. You have to Remember NV5600 was only made for a few years for Dodge parts are expensive and sometimes hard to get ahold of. Just remember I'm close to the 500 HP realm. DAP +150 HP injectors (7 X 0.010 @ 320 bar), Valair Organic Dual Disc, +180 HP Quadzilla Adrenaline, HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo (60/60/12). Still won't upgrade to NV5600. Turn up the Quad from Level 2 which is what I run typically (stock fuel with timing) turn it up to level 7 which is full wire tap and CANBus I can roast the tires in about any gear I wish. Hence why I tend to run level 2. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods You'll need the bell housing, starter spacer, and a clutch being the input shaft might be different. 1st and 2nd gear are carbon fiber still, 3rd ,4th, 5th, and reverse are brass.

Double check the ground wires make sure you got them all hooked up. Just make sure the ECM and VP44 are getting good ground. Flashing Wait To Start is typically a ECM error of some sort. You might grab a code reader and see what codes are displayed.

Just install a Quadzilla your in the high 300's to low 400's HP just with a Quadzilla being there is about 120 to 180 HP gain. Just throw in a set of injectors you could hit 500 without much effort. I know I'm close with just the Quadzilla and +150 HP injectors to 500 HP mark. Just think stock is 235 HP SO/245 HP HO another 90 HP on stock truck would get you to that. Like I said a Quadzilla on a stock engine will surpass that in a single mod.

I get it. Like Eileen's Son with his Ford only can do so much with limit incomes. Need to for sure add a fuel pressure gauge when you can so you can monitor your pressure to the Vp44.

Another though. Being my AirDog 150 is a 3 line pump. This means the air that is captured is returned to the tank. But... Since there is only a small part of the fuel past along to the VP44 this means majority of this fuel is recirculated and re-filter several passes. Technically it called fuel polishing. You constant filter and refiltering the same fuel will keep fuel to the engine cleaner. Then the stock can has a filter too it will stop any particulars that slip through. Yes it does happen even with a 3um ahead of 7um filter. Full 1/2" line here from the tank to the VP44. Now my pressure is very stable with +150 HP injectors and wired tapped Quadzilla on KILL will not drop fuel pressure below my 13 PSI warning light. Very rare to see it even come on. I might drop -2 to -3 PSI from idle to 100 MPH WOT. Stock line is 6mm ID which is smaller than 1/4" fuel lines. 3/8" lines are restrictive still can flow enough so pressure drop is more pronounced on 3/8" line vs 1/2" line. So if you planning for more power you'll have to upgrade again to 1/2" lines.