Mopar1973Man

CANBus Fuel is the fuel that the ECM plus the value of the Quadzilla. So if you set 100% this is true stock fuel. Everything above 100% is added fuel plus what the ECM is commanding. Anything below 100% is cut below ECM rate. So for defuel curve to keep smoke at bay you would set up like I've got 80% to 100% between 0 to 5 PSI of boost. Then above 15 PSI I climb above 100% for added power where I want it at. Now wire tap I don't dump in low PSI numbers. I wait till I'm climbing on the CANBus above 100% and then add it in buy then the turbo is spun up and will accept the fuel without much change in smoke. Wire tap shouldn't be used below about 5 PSI not good for launch power. Typically turns out to be a smokey mess for larger injectors. Wire tap is defined by the Wiretap setting and like I said is best when the turbo is already spun up to add the power in power is smooth transition and no real change in smoke. Too low and you get sudden change in power and tires will break loose. When you street racing or even daily driving spinning the tires is not a good sign. You want ot add the power in and keep your traction as well. Hence why I've got a flat stock band (100%) from 5 PSI to 15 PSI. The stock power in the middle is most now just "stock fuel" commanded from the ECM, plus my +150 HP injectors and the custom timing. So this 100% band is for daily driving and the power is held at bay till I break over 15 PSI. Good street manners. Now if I turn up from Level 3 to Level 7 now we drop in the wiretap. Now you see both fuel table the CANBus above with my stock power band through the middle. Then after I reach 15 PSI you see both the CANBus and the WireTap are working together building power at the same rate to 30+ PSI. This is serious power at this point but still smoke free for the most part just the initial start you might see a puff come out but then cleans up instantly. Without the flat in the middle I was having traction issue and tires would spin easy, now it not so quick to burn the tires but to get the most power to the ground without spinning. For economy reason I want to keep the wiretap high in the boost table. For me I'm constantly climbing grades 6% to 7% on the highways either north or south which mean if I set my wiretap too low I'll be riding on the wiretap climbing grades and possibly wasting fuel. My flat ground travel typically I'm like 2 to 3 PSI at 66 MPH and 2k RPM's. I don' want to have my cruise set for 65 MPH and then climb a grade and step into the wiretap to just climb a normal highway grade.

This though I would bother doing either. Cooler fuel is welcomed for the PSG. This keeps the the electronics and the mechanical parts cool. Most of my 5 years of driving in subzero weather taking @MoparMomto dialysis I never got much below +20*F at -30*F outside temperatures. Do remember that my truck still has the factory fuel filter and fuel heater and the leeched heat from the heat taking care of fuel warm in the winter time. Like right now I'm 50 to 70*F fuel temp for a +20*F to +30*F day. Also my IAT and Fuel Temp are running side by side most times. (+/- 5*F) between IAT and fuel temp.

No that is poor meter or leads. It should show 0.00 ohms probes touching. On fluke meter there is a diagnostic test you can do look on your manual or look up the manual for your Fluke. This the RV truck or the work truck? If its the RV you should look into battery isolation block. These are typically diodes wired into the charge line for one to the engine battery and then one lead to the RV battery. These tend to work great because of no relays and weak connections. Either truck you should be doing the voltage drop test for you main feed lines even the alternator charge lines.

At any rate... If replacing batteries only buy in pairs. Do not only replace one battery. The old battery will pull the new battery down to the same level and strength. Only replace with 2 new battery.

I pass them down the line... I really don't like doing them at all. I know way of doing them easier but I still don't want the mess and headache of fighting someone rusted out ball joints on a oversize tire truck. As for my own truck my current ball joints have 248k miles and still good. All I can say is stock sized tires don't have the issues of big tire trucks.

Possible it all has to do with how long the high current continues. If the windings overheat either the field and/or the stator and burn the coating it can cause winding damage. That's how my field failure occur the armature or field winding over heated shorted the blue lead to ground and POOF went the PCM. Remember either side shorts out damage can occur period. Hence why I've got the 150 A circuit breaker and the 5 A field lead fuse now. Any rate if there is any heat that is too hot to touch the alternator then you have issues and should have the alternator tested. Most likely already failed or going to fail.

Yes it does! It very possible to short to ground on the diodes hence why the melt and blow out. This diode pack off a ND did exactly that and shorted to ground and burned up.

You hid your post so now I got it unhidden. The kit comes with the antiseize. All spelled out in the directions.

Diodes are junk. Shouldn't be any connection between the case and the BATT + stud. That is a short to ground. Correct for the grid heaters relays. It should be infinite ohms on the two large studs. The two smaller studs should have a ohm reading.

ECM and PCM both talk to the cluster. Fuel Guage and volt gauge is from the PCM. The oil pressure, coolant temp, tach are cover by the ECM. As for speedometer the ABS talks to the cluster.

Be careful there... We got several un-Americans as members.

Thanks... I pass this along to my friend Andrew and he might like the idea.

Ol' Jon @Dynamic is a killer transmission man. I know he can make anything work for these beasts. I get it some people just don't like the Dodge 2nd Gen Bodies.

Fuel start to create asphaltenes when you start getting upwards in temperature. I'm not sure what temperature but I know my setup never gets over 140*F much. This starts to plug up fuel filters. I monitor fuel temp right out the VP44 with the Quadzilla tuner. Even my last trip in 2020 to Arizona with temperatures over 115*F I never broke over 145*F fuel temp. Even after 600 miles of driving. My fuel temp and IAT temp follow within +/- 5*F. It doesn't. The fact my straw is NOT in the fuel sender basket. This make my fuel cooler because the return from the rear of the head is the hottest fuel returned to the fuel basket. That fuel is heated to the same temperature of the head metal. No. This is incorrect. Optimal is 14 to 20 PSI this keeps the return valve on the VP44 open and cooler fuel moving always. Below 14 PSI to 10 PSI that overflow valve start to close and completely closed by 10 PSI. So the 5 PSI number is rather damaging being the overflow valve is completely close no return fuel at all. This will continue to build heat in the pump. I can say safely the fuel temp of 140*F and below is no cause for alarm at all. I think the P0168 code for VP44 fuel temp is set at 195*F IIRC. I've only seen 1 member with a over temp code. I've extended my filter changes to 60k miles being the filter stay much cleaner and at 15k miles my filters still looked new. I've seen members here reporting 150 to 160*F temps with returns in the fuel basket. AirDog 150 filter after 15k miles. 54k miles on this AirDog 150 and barely colored... Stock filter is the same time.

I'm sure more than I should on the wiretap. But only on Level (CanBus) I barely reach 1,200*F EGT's. Level 2 (stock fuel) then it barely makes 1,100*F. Even on my trip to Arizona I ran wide open on the tuner but never had any EGT's issues towing a total weight of 17,000 to 18,000 pound between truck and RV. Running 65 MPH on the highway. Typically my boost is super low empty like 2 PSI at 65 MPH. Yes I know my WOT gets hot on the upper end (running wire tap) but I don't race per say but I've got good spiriting power for 3 to 5 seconds will typically get me to over 90 MPH. Being I typically don't use wiretap much any more I normally don't have an issue with EGT's for most normal travel.

Yup. Charger with equalize mode are not cheap. Try not to get any automatic chargers they don't seem to work all that good. I've used a few automatic chargers most shut down too fast. Hence why I like my time base charger off the inverter. My Trace Inverter in Equalize mode on a 24V battery bank. Look close the batteries started to boil. This is normal and the rotten egg smell too. Hydrogen gas will be created. Oh look at the cables these are 25 YEARS OLD. No corrosion, no rotten leads. Hmmm... Engine oil is a wonderful corrosion prevention. This battery bank cost me $4,800 dollars to replace 10 years ago. Each battery is 125 pounds. There is a 1,000 pounds of batteries. Four 6V batteries tied as 24V in two banks. The small yellow lead is my one and only temp sensor for the batteries. As you see I tucked in between the 3rd batteries. It cannot tell what the other 6 batteries are doing for temperature either.

Ok. Equalizing Batteries you want to reach 15.5 to 15.7 Volts and the battery need to be charged outside or open air. They do boil at this point. Now continue to charge till the charge amps drop to near zero. This should be completed. Like I cheat and just use jump cables and hook the battery to my solar system and let it ride with inverter during the equalize charge. My system is set to run for 2 hours at 31.0 Volts for 24V battery bank. Hooking up as a 12V battery to the bank it will typically show about 15.5 to 15.7 Volts and all the batteries are boiling. Now afterwards check your electrolyte levels and return the battery to service. As from Battery University...

Still expensive... Ugh. At least the ECM/PCM combo is gone and only a single ECM.

After being up on that roof and shoveling 4 foot of snow off a house I just started thinking about how that felt on me and though about you and your knee injury. Yeah I got a caring heart and tend to watch out for others.

It won't. Being if the hot battery was being monitor now the charge voltage would of drop super low and undercharged the battery and being its a shorted cell it would of created less charging voltage and left with weak starting batteries. Battery temp sensor is ONLY for setting the charge voltage NOT to protect from runaway charging with bad batteries. Again it only sets the charging voltage base on battery temperature. It is not used as a fail safe to prevent boiling over a shorted cell battery. Again this system is design for maintaining proper voltage for charging based ON WEATHER. Cold winter days require more charging voltage to get the battery up to temp to charge properly. Then in hot summers reduce the battery temperature to prevent boiling over. The old Mopar External regulator was based on under hood temperature this was used from the early 60's to early 90's. These little regulator boxes where mounted in special location to detect under temperatures but the system was flawed and typically boiled batteries over and then in the summer when overheating the engine would under charge. This was updated in the modern system to detect only 1 battery being both battery are bound together. Being cell temperatures can vary from one battery to the other it up to the owner to replace batteries as a pair, inspect cables that have excessive voltage drop and test batteries separately. Again battery temperature sensor is NOT to protect against shorted cell batteries. Cell that shorted out is because the lead plate start to sulfate and the debris piles up in the bottom of the battery now shorting the cell plates out. Now if @JAG1was doing his equalizing charge on the batteries then the that sulfation would of been pull back into the plates and saved the batteries. It's not the temperature sensor job to do this either. Again it only sets the charge voltage to what the battery temperature is.

You 2k RPM pressure is TOO HIGH! The whole problem pressure go up with RPM. The return system is not designed for 20+ PSI inlet pressure. Hence why your fighting this. Then again you not going to gain anything on the return being there is no way to open the passage from the VP44 return port internally. Above 30 PSI you at risk fro blowing out the front seal which does happen quite a bit. Mine is fairly steady at 15 to 17 PSI over from idle to 3k RPM. So my return line is not over pressurized and fuel temps remain low. Mine has been like this for years. Like I know my pressure regulator spring is getting weak my pressure have been slipping slightly down in the loaded area. I'll be ordering a AirDog 17 PSI spring.

Be careful about you knees... Man after all you been through be careful.

Hence why most of my daily driver tunes have the wire tap set high like 15 PSI and up. This way your already built on boost before introducing more fuel. Then the middle of my current tune is all 100% fuel which works out really nice for daily driving being the middle of the map is flat and not climbing fuel amounts adding the entire way. So my surge of power is way up above 15 PSI and then the power is strong.

For me the yard is starting to empty out. I'm down to a couple of simple jobs today I need to change an oxygen sensor on a VW and then install a MAP sensor on a Chevy Suburban. I'm very happy to start seeing slower times once again. Like I tell @Wet Vette (Eileen) I need to go to Riggins and ***** myself out on the street corner. This sounds funny but its totally true. I can go to Riggins, ID park my truck on the side of the building with my logo facing the street. Now go to the Chevron store grab a Pepsi and go chat with Steve Crump. Within less than a hour typically I'll have a job either Steve doesn't want to mess with or someone spots my logo and pulls in with Cummins issues. I do a bit of chatting and explaining like always and I'm pretty sure I can be turning wrenches in a short time. Like my snow thread I want to change hats for a day talking to a few friends I got one friend that has his own business in McCall ID that he's a landscaper. During the winter does snow removal. I know shoveling snow is not easy but its nice to change jobs some days. I hooked up with my friend Sean Davis and haul to McCall in a snowstorm and shoveled a roof off in a mere 3 to 4 hours and made $100 for the job. Sad part was I got focused and forgot the photos... I was dragging tail by the time I was done.

Because these old dinosaurs are easier to work on than the new trucks and parts are cheaper. CR engine for a set of injectors right about $2,100 for stock injectors. I can buy a VP44 for half that price. Then injectors for us are quarter that price. Why do we want to pay for new technology that cost more to fix? I know I'm hypocrite now being I also own a 2006 Dodge ram now too and plan on dropping that same $2,100 on injectors too. Being I bought it cheap I could fix it up and use it for a time and them trade for something else I find.