Mopar1973Man

Still in all the quiet power is always welcome being I've been living off a battery power house for 24 years now. I can say that for sure nothing wrong with good old lead acid batteries. After killing my first set at about 12 to 13 years I learn never ignore the electrolyte level. I ran at least 1 cell on every battery low enough to expose some of the plate material and ruined the batteries in a short order. It really does help to have exact charging voltages and how to properly charge them. What is the max discharge voltage allowed etc. All these values are now programmed into the Inverter and it continues to charge and discharge those batteries daily. Solar wise those are eight 50 watt panels. Eventually I would like to upgrade them to a bigger set of 1,500 watts or more. That would do so much better in the winter time with the short amount of daylight. Still in all even the way I built the system its still a great fall back power source. Back to the batteries... The simple fact I can equalize charge and pull the sulphation back into the plates and change it back to lead is priceless. This is something a AGM battery can't do. Being that both AGM and Lithium batteries are sealed they can never be equalize charged. Being I've got lead acid batteries in the truck I can simple just pull the batteries and hook them up to the solar power bank and equalize them too as part of the solar bank. Hence my long life span on my truck batteries too. My last set I will admit I ran dead several times to 0.00 Volts (Lights left on in the cab) I mean dead so it shorten the last set to about 8 years and quit. I'm now on my 2nd set of Walmart batteries.

I "had" a 1951 Willys that I use to run around in started having way too much issues with the axles and suspension and gave up and sold it. I was 4.88 gearing as well with 31 inch tires wasn't too bad at 65 MPH I was right near 4k RPM on the Chevy V8 I had under the hood. Then with the Turbo 350 trans behind it.

Correct. There is no way to shut it off. It's enabled by the Smarty without a way to disable. This is the way I got my high idle. I barrowed Bob Wagner's Smary and ran a few tunes found out I don't like it at all. In 24 hours sent it back. Still to this day it is enabled.

I paid $4,800.00 for eight 6V batteries. These are not the small one each battery is roughly 125 pounds.

Basically in a nutshell the PCM turns on both green and blue wires when tach signal is sensed. It might be still a defective PCM yet... if the PCM isn't getting this signal then it won't charge.

Ok. Just checking...

I typically use the Zep or HDX brand degreasers. Being acid based it works great on wheels and brake dust. Cut thick grease typically in one or two passes of degreaser being sprayed on. Slightly warm engine helps too. Then if you have the means of using warm water in the power washer really helps a bunch. Like at my other shop I've got access to Hotsy. At home I've got washer connection in the shop and make a fake Hotsy with my power washer. Either way the warmth will help peel the remaining grease and oil off.

Two strongest I've found is "Home Depot Industrial Degreaser" and Common Household Oven Cleaner both are acid based so do leave on aluminum parts it will blacken them. Don't get on your skin it will burn up for sure. I typically use them at 100% strength and my soak time is limited to just at the tops of 1 to 2 minutes or less. Crud... HDX brand is no longer sold but the Zep brand is... Still works just the same. https://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-1-Gal-Fast-505-Degreaser-ZU505128/202790160

Exactly.

I only use a small harbor freight box cutter. Take your time and slowly work the knife through the layers. Take your time and you'll get it opened up so you can get the wires exposed. I've done like a dozen of these mods now about an hour job to do.

You can spray them off just keep your wander back at least 1 foot from modules. Never had one problem with power washing vehicle ever. Most of the time I look under the hood before rolling in the shop if the truck is greasy or super dirty it will get a full power wash job before starting. Why work on a vehicle with dried mud falling in your eyes or having to reach down into the engine bay and get greasy all the way up past your elbows? Why? Heck I power wash and clean them up that way I don't have to wash for hours get the greasy mess off me and the customers always love to see a clean engine afterwards. Just don't put the spray nozzle again any connectors other than that you'll open up the connection to blow dry the connector and add di-electric grease.

Out here it would be best to force oil down the jacket being amount of salt on the roads will eat the cables and graphite is not going to protect from rusting.

I power wash engine all the time it will not hurt anything... Just let the engine cool down below 140*F before starting. You can spray down everything just don't spray directly at plugs or connectors. Everything can get a bath.

Still using standard old lead acid batteries. Still very capable of equalize charging. Heck, the house batteries here are over 10 years old and still going. There is eight 6V batteries tied in 24V bank of 2 banks of batteries. I've had this system since 1997 that's 24 years of service. I've also only replaced ONE set of batteries. Its no different that a RV. I'm self sustaining power system just the house doesn't roll on axles bnut fix to the ground. Just a bigger system and supplies 30A at 120VAC. (4,000 watt inverter). As for the batteries I always tend to sway away from AGM or Lithium batteries because of the sealed nature. You have to remember my batteries are in service 24 hours a day and 7 days a week. Not like a RV that you park and not live in daily. I still to this day do equalize charging and top of my electrolytes. Being my batter to replace all eight is roughly 4,800 to 5,200 dollars on today market. I've got 820 amp hours worth of batteries at 24 Volts. This system runs 24 hours and 7 days a week. Constantly charging and discharging supplying the house with power daily. These battery are TRUE deep cycle batteries designed for home power centers. For those that are "weekend warriors" can't compare usage being this system NEVER shuts down. This system power everything in the house except - heat pump & A/C, drier, stove and oven. Loads are too big for my small 4kW inverter. This system has been running for 24 years now powering my house daily! Matter of fact just last week I just topped off with distilled water and ran a 2 hour equalize charge and she is ready for the next month of power outages and burn outs. Average power outage here is 12 to 24 hours. Longest was 17 days. So for battery supplied RV or homes I do have this all dialed in...

Not really. You would have to be terminate the circuit with the same bias voltage too. So my thought is to pull the PCM and have it bench tested by a rebuilder. Very possible the same thing happen to you as it did to me... If the alternator fails and shorts out the blue wire to ground because of mechanical failure. The PCM is on a 20A fuse but the circuit board will not support the 20A fuse so it burns up the tracers inside the PCM. Hence why after having my bnech tested I found my printed circuit board was burned through completely. Required a full replacement of the PCM. To protect this from happening again I added a fuse in the blue wire off the PCM and put only a 5A fuse on that blue wire so it will not burn up the PCM again. If the circuit is burned then yes no matter the data you switch transistor is burned up. Here is how I stopped the problem...

In my case around 350k miles I had my head curl some and the head gasket started to leak near the rear of the head on the passenger side of the block.

I'm still going on my DAP pump yet no issues...

None. Never had one.

Like one our members @flagmanruss is a MS patient as well. I'm not sure if he's still with us but last I knew he wasn't going to hot.

I made a few tweaks to this tune. Since the pop pressure on my truck is higher my running cruise timing needs to be 21° at 2K RPM. I'm upped the cruise timing to 4° and so far I'm right at 19 MPG but the zero boost part came up just a weebit I run about 2 to 3 PSI at 65 MPH flat ground. This last two tanks I only got 17.84 and 17.06 MPG now after the change I used only half the amount of fuel to get back home from Lewiston this trip. I'm barely even a 1/8 tank down for 130 mile trip since the update to timing. I'll update the down load soon. Also I've had a quite a bit of idle time on that tank so its not a far number during winter. Also with the winterized diesel here is low in the BTUs with the high cetane. I kind of want to leave the first one alone so others of stockish pop pressure can play with. I'll post the update as 1.0.1 version. The other problem I tend to play once in awhile with out vehicles. Still a vicious tune from light to light. If the road are even lightly wet I have troubles getting the tires to stick. Like my last run to McCall for parts at NAPA climbing the 7% grade every corner you have to back down get around then I would lightly squeeze and the tires would hop and skip as the power came on. I'm restricted to levels 2 or 3 for the most part on Quadzilla just for traction reasons.

No, DAP no longer is selling Industrial Injection Pump. DAP is using Midwest Fuel Injection and one other rebuilder. I don't remember the name. Sorry. Just installed one of those yesterday in about 2 hours.

@JAG1 Be careful you have no idea what I'm capable of...

Yup exactly. Hence why my landlords truck blew the 150 Amp alternator fuse I installed while running his winch. Even though the alternator is only 136 Amp. As the batteries dropped in voltage being totally wore out it increase the current from a already tapped out alternator and blew the fuse out. Again batteries have more of the role of "storage of energy" to be redelivered to the electrical loads. Alternator is only to recharge the batteries NOT to sustain high loads. Being like myself got two WalMart batteries at 810 CCA that is 1,620 CCA if that can't sustain a winch for a time of pulling then I would say batteries are not doing there job. Even stock was 750 CCA for 1,500 CCA total. Yup, Even with 136 Amp stock alternator and weak batteries you can blow a 150 Amp fuse or circuit breaker. Just because the batteries are weak or no longer have the capacity for said loads. Again like even the rebuilder down in Nampa, ID told me the alternators are not to blame but weak connections, bad grounds, and weak batteries.

If you trailer socket has the door on it and the spring is work it should hold the plug locked in. Like mine I' lost the door when Russ push it in the shop. So now I've got to use a bungee cord and hook the hitch frame to keep it plugged in.

One to look for is a cracked pickup tube. I've seen 2 different truck now that fail after about 1/4 to 1/2 tank. The corrugated tube for the pick up could crack all one corrugated tube and its hard to spot.