Mopar1973Man

Full article including dual pressure math...

Gotta double check both sets of bus wires... CCD SCI If you look at the wire map above those wires need to be good shape. I'm currently trying to fix my OBDII plug. I wanted to capture some data for another gent but my port is no longer connecting to Innova tool I've got or any tool. Last time it was one wire push out for the SCI bus.

I've seen brand new pumps fail right out of the box. Not to give bad press to any vendor but yeah it does happen. I just had a brand new pump kick out the P1689, P0252 and a few other ocdes. This is one reason for finding out the source of where the pump was rebuilt. I typically go with vendors that sell fully bench tested VP44 with only new PSGs. It takes 3 hours to calibrate and flash a new PSG.

Spinning isn't winning... This where my weight base tire pressures really shine. Basically weight out your axles and then do a bit of math on them. For example my front axle is scaled at 4,440 pounds... Total truck weight 7,300 pounds. Tires - 245/75 R16 Hankook ATm rated for 3,042 pounds at 80 PSI Load Range E's. (4,440 / 2) = 2,220 / 3,042 = 0.72 x 80 = 58.3 PSI in the front tires. Then the rear at scaled at 2,860 pounds. (2,860 / 2) = 1,430 / 3,042 = 0.47 x 80 = 37.6 PSI in the rear tires. Now if you want more traction drop 5 PSI again and the softer tire will bite in more. 99% of people run match pressure front and rear which is actually wrong as you can see there is 7,300 pounds worth of truck 60% of the weight on the front axle. Only 40% on the rear axle so to keep the traction the rear tires have to be soften up a bunch to make them stick. Like this summer I was trailer towing so I was 60 PSI all 4 tires and easy to break the tires loose. Now back to 50 PSI in the front and 35 PSI in the rear and she is sticky! It will hold the shock of the turbo smacking 49 PSI on 245/ 75 R16 tires. No loss to softer tires either... MPG is unchanged. Just for fun... 60 PSI in all four tires will hold the GVWR of 8,800 pounds. 60 / 80 = 0.75 x 3,042 = 2,281 x 2 = 4,563 per axle. x 2 axles = 9,126 pounds at 60 PSI in all 4 tires! Just to show most people over inflate there tires hence lack of traction...

So you want about 19° to 20° at 2,000 RPM in a cruise state. Then about 14° in powered state. Being your injectors are stock pop then you going to need a little extra timing. 13° (1,5k), 17° (2k), 21° (2.5k), 25° (3k), 26° (MAX) would be a good starting point. This will give good launching power and spool quick. Max Load Timing Offset set for 3°. Then the Low PSI timing Reduct for 5° Scaling for 50%. Light throttle timing 2° and set your light throttle load so you can hold 65 MPH on flat ground. (mine is 21%) might need more...

I've started that a long time ago but now my life is about getting job done in a timely manner. I need to get back to doing videos of stuff. I've got a very expensive camera I bought a long time ago. This is the camera I typically use for documenting articles and doing videos. Lots of functions and abilities. Like doing the LED bulb pictures I was able to make the shutter speed faster so the bulbs don't was out the photo. Then my current phone Samsung S10+ has a stellar camera and video recorder. The shame is my magnetic mount on my dash doesn't aim the camera at me like my old Gooseneck stand did. I use this for quick photos for post... I've used the video mode on this camera and even has slow-mo so you can really burn up the memory and make some huge video files.

Welcome to the family... Like you I've owned a few Dodge's... 1972 Dodge Power Wagon 1973 Dodge Charger SE 1976 Dodge Power Wagon 1977 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome 1978 Dodge Magnum XE 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins

Photo please I'm curious of what that looks like?

The last one I fired up I did nothing to. I had been standing in a field for 4 or 5 years. We installed a set of batteries. Crank on it a bit to get the fuel up and oil pumping. Pulled the air filter and gave it a shot of starting fluid lit it off. Ran fine. Couple days later had him drive it to my house and installed a VP44. No start hot issue and P0216 code.

Just put the relay in another empty hole. It will baffle most.

Easy.. pull the fuel pump relay.

Little lunch break. My last bolt and the battery pack on the impact gun died. Man even with experience of the donor removal its still a major PITA. Going to be fun installing the donor.

Hateful little Jeep... Already got the donor from another jeep... Taking some time to get that lil transfer case out. Little to no room for big paws..

I'm still rust free for the most part. A bit creeping in around the door seems. But the rear fenders I've been washing out since day one. It might be easier to order the entire bed side. Like back in the day I use to work in a body shop and did all the tear down. I would drill out all the spot welds. Then seperate the bed skin and the fix the wheel well. Then prep it for the new skin and get it close then hand it off to my boss and let him finalize the body and paint.

Bring this back around. I need to do the power point down below now. I'm finding now that I've got @Wet Vettein my life we are constantly looking for one more port for charging phone. Then any passengers are without too. So I'm going to be ordering a standard 2 plug port WITHOUT volt meter. So far the first one has held up to some serious abuse and dead device but always charges fast and cool.

I just got busted for that in the 3rd gen section...

Opps... Gotta pay attention. Need coffee yet... Still in all then swap the Quad for Smarty Touch. But the only problem its too complex for most people to even tune.

With my High idle kit switch... Yes the only two ways of enabling the ECM high idle is Smarty tuner or the Dealer. The only way to turn it off is the dealer. No I don't... I've got my Quadzilla display up typically and see the IAT before even starting. If the IAT is even close to 32*F I will disable the Quadzilla. Then come spring again then I will turn on the Quadzilla being the temps are nowhere near 32*F on the IAT. ECM is always ENABLED and ARMED it the Quadzilla that I selectively turn off and on. Still in all the 3 CYL function is WAY FASTER than the Quadzilla high idle. Yes I've got both. I can only selectively turn on and off the Quadzilla. Period. The ECM high idle is always armed and no way to turn off. So any time the IAT is near 32*F then the Quadzilla high idle is turned off and use the ECM high idle. Yes you can just disable the Quadzilla for winter time and use the ECM high idle. Spring time return back to the Quadzilla. Been that way for the entire time I've owned the Quadzilla. I enabled my ECM high idle long long time ago and never turned it back off. ECM HIGH IDLE 6 CYL - IAT must be below 32*F with the grid heaters on. ECT must be below 140*F. 3 CYL - IAT must be below 15*F with the grid heater on. ECT must be below 140*F.. For me really soon I will be shutting down the Quadzilla high idle being the next week is going to be single digits. So bye bye to the Quadzilla high idle till spring. Notice both the delay and the warm up mode are both turned OFF! It will continue the rest of the winter with the ECM high idle now. I'll just use my high idle switch to control which mode I start with. Remember to set the switch on the mode before you start up.

BD fueling box needs to go. Replace that... That turbo would be for about 150 to 200 HP injectors. Plus a Quadzilla then you might really light that turbo.

Well the last two days I've been lazy and taking 2 days off. The last 5 weeks I've more or less worked everyday. If I wasn't turning wrenches I was doing home stuff. Wore out... Ive got a Jeep transmission to swap tomorrow. Fun...

Geez.. Happy times right? I've got to say at least I've got my health.

I know about the tow truck comment. Your good... As for fuel temp 160*F is high... Even my trip to Mohave Valley AZ this summer I towed the RV down there and had outside temperatures of 117*F and fuel temp only made it to a mere 145*F...

Coasting with the clutch in that is normal. ECM can see road speed and holds the idle up for that 1,100 to 1,200 RPM till the road speed drops near zero. TPS signal should not wonder when at idle. Nope that is correct the TPS value should drop to ZERO and stay there when idling. Shouldn't bounce or anything as long as your foot is off the pedal.

@Dieselfuture I would love to see your fuel temps in the VP44. No. I do what has to be done to get vehicles running and fixed. If I gotta barrow a trailer and haul it back I will.

Might consider getting it replaced. But yes you can try a reset... Most likely do nothing being the APPS reset only reset the min and max values of throttling but does nothing to set the IVS for idle.. It has ZERO to do with the IVS (Idle Validation Switches) inside the unit. Now the IVS is controlled by voltage in a stock APPS where a Timbo's APPS is based on position of the sensor. APPS reset will not change that fact. Most likely...