Mopar1973Man

Yeah I forgot the level 0 will start high idle regardless. I do that in the winter time when I was waiting for Mom to finish dialysis.

This is calculated not actual. Its based off RPM, gear ratio, etc. and some math to figure out what gear position. What is the IAT and ECT temperatures at firs tkey on without starting. These two values should match. If there is aseveral degrees of skew then I would say replace the ECT sensor.

I typically run level 3 unless more power is needed. Anything with wire tap I could push through the 1,200 barrier pretty easy. Even towing a trailer on level 3 does extremely well.

Where in at in a national forest yeah I can work with tune and clean them up before using on the highway. Like I will admit I have a performance tune that I'm building. It going to be fuel heavy but not super smokey. Just that haze that tells me I reached my max fuel my turbo can handle. Then my economy tune has been reworked with a shorter fuel map, pretty good timing increase. Then I'm working on a tow tune as well to get all the fuel burnt, without excessive EGTs. Different timing map, and modified fuel map. Being that no one can really drive faster than speed limit there is no super need for speed tunes. My tunes are based more on MPG than power. Being everywhere I go is 100 plus mile trips. My old routine was nearly 1,000 miles a week, best part 150 Hp injectors still getting 21 MPG. Now catch me if you can... My Highmore on record is 27.2 MPG. Doubt anyone can best that. Fuel only....

As for the error codes... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/ Then as for the CCD network...

Welcome to the site... First off that is a heck of a read. Could be loss of prime cause by a a air leak into the line. Another I gotta ask about is the WAIT TO START light coming on instantly? If the WAIT TO START does not come on then the ECM is NOT booted and will not start till it does come on. EVS? I'm not sure what this device is. PCM is the master computer that starts the CCD network bus and ECM boots up separately. As for the entire network and what is there. Grid heaters. It's possible for the grid heater solenoid to stick and draw the batteries stone dead in a night. Like my landlord called me up in a panic that his truck has dead batteries. We charged it up and started and charged normally. Not as it seems... Alternator would get hot pop the circuit breaker. Then the grid heater solenoid is stuck closed and still heating the grid heater. 95 Amp load will eat the batteries in a short order with no signs. Simply just unhook the grid heater leads at the driver side battery. Problem stopped. Auto Computer Specialist did good with me both times I've used them. They replaced my burned up PCM after my alternator shorted out and burned up the printed circuit board till it had a hole in the circuit board. Then I had sent in a 4th gen ECM for repair which they repaired the ECM but there was a wire issue on the truck preventing the ECM to boot up normally. ECM still works but the wiring is screwed on that truck.

That why you add a 150A circuit breaker to the charge lead on the passenger side. I've got mine hidden on the passenger side battery tray.

Smoke is just showing your.... Timing is most likely too retarded. Fuel is in excessive amount ot the amount of boost. Fuel map needs to start lower percentage. Now using the tunes I've got there is zero smoke from the exhaust pipe... But plenty of smoke from my rear tires. Making more power.

P1693 code is never alone... The P1693 code is a flag that lets you know there is a error on the other computer. So if the ECM is dumping codes and P1693 code is present then the PCM has the code(s). Visa Versa with the PCM reading codes and pop a P1693 it means there is more codes on the ECM. Yes you can have P1693 code twice meaning that both PCM and ECM are going to have errors.

I never use any silicone or sealants. Install just the way the manufacture did dry and clean. Torqued properly and even.

Quadzilla display of gear position is not a data thing from the transmission but just a math calculation from the roads speed and gear ratio you provide in Quadzilla. Quadzilla has a bunch of math it can do to the data to show a gear position.

RockAuto sells that clutch safety switch. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,electrical-switch+&+relay,clutch+pedal+position+/+starter+safety+switch,16665

No help here with smoke tunes... Smokey tune just shows that you really don't know how to tune properly. Dirty tunes do not produce more power.

Have the valve body modified for lock up in any gear. Problem solved. Temps will fall. The only reason it gets hot is climbing grades with torque converter unlocked.

This is a 24V article but the method is the same.

I'm also looking for one...

Here you go... Then... We have the seal kit from Cummins at a fraction of the cost of Gould Gear.

Right out of the PDC there is a heavy red cable from the battery. Hook to that stud in the PDC. This will not rot or have corrosion issues. The other heavy cable is black is the charge lead. Don't hook directly to the battey. This typically turns in to a huge wiring nightmare.

I've rebuilt many boxes over the years for older Dodges and Ford trucks with the sagnaw steering boxes. Not my first rodeo... Doing seal kits in them are super easy, cheap and typically the steering box does not wear out just needs adjustments. There is no real book info of this slack adjustment, just over the years I found 1 to 1.5 turns out is about good for average slack. Like my OEM box Blue Top Steering said my box was like brand new yet and only needed one seal and out the door again in less than 1 hour was sold.

Either.... Bad injectors washing down cylinder walls and creating blowby. EGT's ran too high and did damage to a cylinder wall and/or piston. Using a washable filter and dusted out the engine rings are wiped out. Vacuum pump has a vacuum leak pressurizing the crankcase blowing oil out. Fuel leak into the crankcase front seal of the injection pump. My thought would be to do a compression test and find out where you sit. Then you'll know if its rebuild time our not.

Everything here is back to normal for the most part... Stores are fully restocked. Price of Gasoline in Boise is 1.999 a gallon but diesel still lingers at 2.659 roughly. The stay at home order has been extended to April 30th for Idaho. The biggest thing I still fight with is going to the city and needing a bathroom still hitting locked doors, no public restroom usage, etc. Like my last trip to Boise to drop off Eileen's Grandson back to his parents, I was hunting for a restroom just to pee, had to pick a side street and pee behind a tree in a industrial area. Stupid laws and really becoming tough for people that travel. Still hearing strange laws of cops turning people around at state line to go home. Never seen it yet with crossing into Washington or Oregon yet. Even heard of the local cops in McCall, ID turning people away because there plate are not Idaho, Valley county. Never seen it yet either. Other than that the weather here has been cold and nearly snowing. Dipping into the 20's every night and warming up barely to mid 50's. Get down to Lewiston or Boise its more like 60's and 70's for day time weather which is nice.

Not much. Stock transmission is rather marginal at best in stock form. The valve body is going to change up your shift. Like my 46RE has a Dynamic custom build and it bangs the gears yet just wonderfully. The difference is my 46RE is more like 47RE after Dynamic built the rest of the transmission for me. Milled the clutch baskets an 0.1 of inch and added in an extra disc in both overdrive and direct clutches. Plus with all the other goodies, levers and pistons, spring kit, etc. Even added extra oil cooling jets for the clutches.

D'Oh!

Good points...

All explained here... The original...