Mopar1973Man

Never had any problems with my vents. Every 30k miles change the fluid then with the cover off and draining just use compressed air and blow it out. Not even when I was towing back from Mohave Valley, AZ. Never used synthetics, and just standard old 80w-90 GL-5. 415k miles and counting.

Oh my this is going be impossible to clean up. Tires being 35 inch tires your final ratio is too low at 3.21:1. This is going to require lots of fuel to get turning. Optimal you would need 4.10 gear to fix this. Like myself I swapped out to 30" tires this raise the final ratio to 3.69:1, more torque to the ground, extremely low EGT's, no smoke at all. 650*F at 80 MPH at 2,450 RPM in 5th gear. What size injectors? (Found it ( 7x 0.012) injectors in the first post) 3,000 pop is too low. Stock starts at 4,500 PSI or 310 bar. I'm even using 320 bar (4,641 PSI). Turbo in my opinion is too big. Spools too late. Hence your smoke, you can't spool that big turbo quick enough quick enough. Optimally 62/68/12 will support 150 HP injectors up to 200 HP injectors. I'm even running HX35/40 hybrid (60/60/12) with 150 HP (7 x 0.010) @ 320 bar which spools extremely fast and giving me just at 47 to 49 PSI of boost. Still think the turbo is too big.

My last injection pump died on a trip to Riggins, ID as well I went to town to visit with a friend there. I got to town pick him up and the engine started knocking barely had any power. It threw the P0216 code and lit the CEL. Truck would still run and drive but very weak on power barely 25 MPH till I got home. The timing was stuck in full advance! My OEM pump died at 50k miles with P0216 code and white smoke and low power. Pumps that die without warning typically the PSG unit burned up and now after talking to people W-T ground mod is now closing that door some what. Like my truck the fuel temp and IAT temp are always the same. Typically below 130*F on the worse case heat. PSG typically do not burn up with good fuel pressure to keep them cool. Another tidbit there is no heat soak rise on my truck I can run hard for hundred of miles and the fuel temp always falls when shut down not rise.

Do keep in mind Blue Chip does sell pumps with used PSG units. DAP on the other hand sells VP44 with only NEW PSG units. Typically lower price than Blue Chip.

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Just keep in mind after 100k to 150k miles to just change out the injectors. The o-rings are typically cooked and getting weak. Then the injectors seen all that heat for all those miles and the heat cooling cycle on the springs. Pintle moving up and down in just diesel fuel for lube.

I can give this much... I created a massive boost leak on my truck to test the boost leak theory. I removed one intake manifold bolt, and remove the wastegate hose from the turbo. Took it out for a drive typically I can reach 47 PSI of boost. With this massive leak I still reached 43 PSI of boost, EGT's where unaffected by the leak. The air whistling out of the two spots was very loud and couldn't be miss. I drove for several miles like this with no ill effect. 7 x 0.010 Injectors HX35/40 Hybrid turbo (60/60/12) Quadzilla on KILL (Level 7) Even with a massive leak you can hear it will not change the boost or EGT's very much.

I've never had that happen... I've had the reverse of that happen and finding the front diff mixed with water.

Still doesn't fix the excessive long ground issue. This ground lead is TOO LONG! Still running right pass the alternator charge line.

Start at about 80% and work your way up. Also I would have to know several other factors. Tires size Axle ratio Transmission Injector pop pressure Turbo

I had @Dynamic build my 46RE in my 1996 Dodge 1500 to be more like a 47RE. He milled a 0.1 of a inch off the overdrive and direct clutch added an extra clutch disc and added cooling jets to the body of the case to keep the clutches cooled and lubed properly. The custom modified valve body that shifts firm. This is one tough little transmission and it shift like one too.

Should of talked to me first there is a much better way.

No.. Please don't. That creates a masked problems. Best to leave all filters off the system fix the source. Don't mask with filters.

Missing at idle only warm is typically a sign of injectors failing. You can pull the injectors and clean them up using my article. If this buys you time then you injectors are nearly wore out and the pop pressure might be low too. You can check that with a live data tool like OBDLink LX or Quadzilla tuner.

Now like my little 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has this issue but its got really soft springs in the front and rear. Shock have a lot of time (7 years) but barely 20k miles on them.

You should just do the W-T ground mod and PCM protection fuse then you don't have to worry about ECM or PCM replacement. That problem is taken care of. As for just getting a replace ECM and PCM I would go with matched sets. Find the same ECM for the same year. There is like 53 versions of software per model year. Getting the wrong software is very frustrating and can pose bigger issues just trying to correct. ECM and PCM should come from the same truck too. This just reduces the amount of problems. Also remember the ECM is a secondary computer and the PCM is the primary computer. US Federal, US california, vs. Canada Emissions 2WD vs. 4WD Automatic vs. Manual High Output vs. Standard Output Fly by wire cruise vs vacuum motor cruise Security Fob vs. No security These are just few differences software wise that could make a break getting the right ECM and PCM.

Grid heater relay. Check the small wires on the two relays on the driver fender.

2500 Series seems to turn tighter than the 3500 series truck either 2WD or 4WD. I've never actually measures the rings of pitch a full left or right turn but it seem that I typically need more room for the 1 ton trucks more so.

https://www.troublecodes.net/pcodes/p0338/ Double check the 5V reference signal make sure its 5V signal. Make sure the sensor ground is good without it it could be hi volt code. More about the source voltage than sensor return.

Warm up the truck in the evening and park it in the shop if available. Then drop the oil plug and the oil filter and let it drain all night long. This will get a majority of the mess out of the crankcase. @Dieselfuture is right it could be a bad oil cooler. Others cracked head, bad head gasket are possible. Mine when the head gasket start to fail it leaked externally. Rear right of the down the back of the block. I had head curl. I also had back valve guides and bad valve seal excess oil smoke at start up. Cost about $2,000 to do head studs, gasket kit, and the machine work for the head and valves.

415k miles no leaks on the alxes and working as designed. I do check the vents from time ot time.

Yup your right... It is a AC noise issue...

So far everyone that did the mod had huge reductions in AC noise. The only thing I can say is have the alternator bench tested again and verify its good and not got any bad or weak diodes. To this day I'm still right about 10 to 12mv AC. Alternaotr made it past one year now and still going.

Here Here!