Mopar1973Man

Yeah you can trade the seat cushion from left ot right and visa versa...

Be aware with all the COVID-19 crap going on the shipping might be slow. I've got stuff stuck in NY right now waiting to get here. Some stuff is coming in good time and other stuff is seriously getting hung up. Even stuff manufacture in USA.

No not really... The material is coming unglued and the foam backing is most likely degrading.

Basically the Network in the truck is damaged. These trucks run a on a 2 wire network similar to computer networks. Short to ground Short to 12V Short to 5V Open Wires Basically everything in the truck is sent over the bus to like the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), Engine Control Module (ECM)... @AH64ID would be a good one that might know something...

Look over that security stuff again. I would double check everything is returned back to stock setup. Give me a call at 208-315-1470 I can tell you a neat one wire security trick for your truck. It will prevent starting completely.

There might be software control of the ECM that might impact when and where that relay is active being the ASD relay should be capable of forcing the engine to shut down. Do you have security fob? Security system could prevent starting if available in your model. Got to ask is the WAIT TO START light coming on instantly? If not the ECM is brain dead till that light comes on which happens to be the first instruction in the ECM. If the wait to start does not come on it will not start at all.

It could because the ECM sees the tach signal drop and now it uses other means to figure out RPM and Timing of the engine from the P0341 code. It could be the lift pump and fuel pressure is too low and creating issues too which this could be the P0230 code.

Yeah... Pin 3 and 11 in the OBDII port to ground.

That's the point it doesn't. That why I posted the key switch part. The ECM is in control of the power relay directly. Ok wiring map take notice the Brown/White wire going back to pin 36 of the ECM. This is the only thing that controls the VP44 power. You can see the Fuel Pump relay in the upper right. Now as for the key switch. Look at the far right switch set up in the ignition switch. It drop off this map to the next image. Now we move to the cab. The fuse panel in the left side of the cab. Fuse #9 is hot only when the key is in the RUN or START positions. The only time this power changes is when the key is in the ACC, OFF, and LOCK position which the power is OFF. The only thing I could think to try at this point is change the fuses which I've seen many fuse crack and randomly work or not. Then I would replace the fuel pump relay. I've seen relay burn the contacts and randomly work and quit too.

Depends on the year. 2002 the oil pressure is a single wire. No tie to the +5V of the MAP. This was a change in the wiring in 2002. All information from the ECM like oil pressure is sent by the CCD network to the cluster. There is no connection between the cluster and the oil pressure sensor directly. Oil pressure sensor -> ECM -> CCD Network -> Cluster Do the cluster test...

After doing the W-T ground wire mod all alternator problems stopped. No longer need a upgraded alternator like Nations or Mean Green. Now my ND alternator is completely noise free and handles all the electrical requirement without any issues. Alternator failures stop completely. The biggest thing is the charge lead is the farthest from the ECM, and VP44. Then these grounds are now cut about 4 feet shorter and travel away from the alternator. No need for upgraded alternator. Biggest thing is taking a Quadzilla and set the warm up temp to about 160 to 170*F and then set the delay for about 30 second for high idle. Now when you start the alternator is kept up on high idle and grid heater load doesn't cause damage because the engine RPM's are up and the alternator can hold the electrical load better and then the fan in the alternator can keep the diodes and windings cooler!

Here is the full wiring of the ECM and VP44 connection. Fuel pump relay in the upper right corner is controlled by the ECM to turn on the power from the ECM. As for the key switch... Follow the Start / Run part of the switch and it goes to the next photo. Now here is the start / run circuit of the key switch.

I'm running 7 x 0.010 injectors (150 HP), HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12), Quadzilla Tuner. I've towed plenty of heavy loads. Right now I'm getting prepped for making a trip sometime in the future. I'll be going south to meet my other family (Eileen's Mom, Eileen, Grandmother, Etc.) I know my RV combo puts me at about 17,000 pounds. I'm going to increase and add the ATV and more supplies since the trip will be long. Then come back from all that then get prepped for firewood hauling like I've done in the past. I've might have to haul another pickup down here on a flatbed trailer as well. I'm in process in making new tunes. I managed to get my economy tune (summer) hitting much better. Passing the 20 MPG mark for sure. Quadzilla hovers at about 24 to 35 MPG in instant MPG display at 65 MPH. Now my new towing tune is going to be great in keeping the EGT's controlled and provide as much power with out getting excessive hot. Yeah, I have enough power to run the EGT as high as I wish. My full list of mods (4 pages)... https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods

No. There is no way to properly clean or inspect the evaporator while the HVAC is in the vehicle. It requires removal and disassembly to even clearly see the evaporator. I done several cleaning running a garden hose in the fan hole and trying to rinse the evaporator. This doesn't work very well some of the lose material comes out but the dried and caked mud will not come out and air restriction still remains, and performance is marginal. The only way I found was full removal and power washing the entire case and evaporator core. Yeah the evaporator can with stand a full 3,000 PSI power washer up to about 9 inches away without damage. I've got experience with early 1970's dashes and heater cores even was unsoldering the tank heads and rodding them out 20 years ago. Then with modern Dodge truck I've done too many to count on the 2nd Gen's. Then now getting my feet wet with 3rd Gen setups which are bigger pain in the compared to the 2nd Gen design. I would ALWAYS remove aclean. lube, and inspect the entire case. Using short cuts and avoiding the full job is going to bite you later and FORCE you to remove the HVAC in the future. 2nd Gen is the EASIEST to do.

Wiring issue between the ECM and the sensor. Check for open wires or shorts to ground.

You can check voltage of the bus in the obdii port. 2.49 and 2.51 volts in reference to body ground. This is bus + and bus -.

ECM damaged... Time to rebuild it first. Now also do the W-T ground wire mod and the alternator protection fuse too.

Some of us just went for the AirDog 150 and still running after 250k miles. I only had to replace the pump motor. The OE AirDog was a 2G pump. That went the 250k miles. Now the 3G pump barely lasted 7k miles and failed with bad seal and ate the shaft bearing locked up. 4G pump 165 GPH now I'm rolling and we'll see how far the 4G AirDog does. So far its stable 15 to 17 PSI.

P0341 is cam sensor failure and most likely why the tach isn't working. Just replace the sensor its only one allen screw and pull it out. P0230 is lift pump out of range most like the lift pump is pulling more amps or none at all. What is your fuel pressure like? This will make a impact on timing and could cause change in engine noise being the fuel pressure isn't there.

Your about on track for most part. We stay in touch with Eileen's best friend down in Boise she is a nurse. I've dug in and found my own sources of info.

Nice and beefy for the steering.

On this side of the Corona Virus. For me its still been very hard on me. The biggest thing is being stuck in the very house that Mom lived in with all the reminders of her. Still have times when I see any object like Mom's favorite candy in a jar, I'll some times just lose it. Could be a photo or article of clothing and break down and start crying. As soon as the quarantine is over I'm packing up and hauling south in the RV. My work performance is not good these days and difficult to focus at times. Again in a house full of reminders. Spent a full month throwing out stuff and sorting through all of mom clothing and personal stuff. Even typing this is getting me choked up. I've been wanting to start a new life but the entire world is on hold and extremely difficult to move forward. I just need a break from this. Eileen has been a wonderful help and also there to heal my broken heart at times. Cleaning out kitchen, living room two bedrooms, and bathroom. The upstair level is nearly completed. Still got the entire guest house which is a wreck and then the entire basement we are still working on sorting stuff. Cleaning out a freezer and entire food cellar. Watching truck loads of stuff go to the dump including a couch and other stuff. Even during this time I've only got out twice once I went camping locally as a dry run for two days. Then managed to get out and just take a ride up the river. The only thing I found out is the entire river road is packed with people camping. Then came home again. Weather is just starting to warm pu here at home but yesterday just going to Lewiston it was very warm like 70's. Like doing work at home is difficult just to get materials from the local hardware store. Even auto parts are getting stupid. Common is ordering parts to get the wrong one over and over. Another is just trying to find some parts for a old fire truck the SRRFD sold. Just don't have that patience for running back and forth with wrong parts. Or get to big city and get hardware and stand in line to just get in the store. Really? Locally price have creeping up. But got to large cities and prices are way down. Heck getting gas for 1.699 in Clarkston Wa. Come home diesel is high at 2.759. So just food shopping we are force to travel to either Boise or Lewiston. Winco in Lewiston for $130 bucks we fill a cart full of food. Come home and don't take but a dozen item and you spent $100 in food. Spring is here and trees are all popping in blossoms.

Man that gotta suck lose your rolling home for job sites. Hopefully the insurance company will rapidly replace your RV for ya. I'm glad the wife and other are OK in the accident. She will have an awesome car to drive. Keep your spirits up it is a trying time but we will all come through this together. Oh @dripley if you come out to Idaho you may not park in my backyard. Most likely my massive maple tree will come and find you.

About 4 hours doing it right. Cleaning the entire HVAC case power washing the evaporator core. Recharging the A/C when done. While its out I normally look at the blower motor and the blower motor resistor too. New o-ring seal kit for the A/C lines. New foam seal in the case too. Lube the door pivots and inspect the blend door coupler. These are all thing you'll not be doing if you do the shortcut. Even one I've open had more crude in the evaporator than anything. Heater core typically stay clean. Yes the a dirt evaporator will impact performance in the summer and winter. Most will comment on how much more air will flow. Then not to mention the odors are gone too being the case is clean.