Mopar1973Man

Nope... your good!

If the Quadzilla I Quad app has load on a previous key cycle it will remain with that tune till you load iQuad app and switch again. So if I load my Economy tune then shut down. Then next startup (headless) it will automatically load the Economy on next start up.

Yes, you can. I go headless quite a bit. Makes for great conversation pieces when the truck takes off and pull you in the seat but tuner is seen. As long as the tune has been updated. The tune will remain in the Quadzilla module on next reboot.

I'm going to publicly say this. I've gotten a phone call from another member asking all these questions about ground wire mod and having to add the second ground strip from battery to battery this is NOT REQUIRED nor will you gain NOTHING! Just because W-T has a ham transmitter for his truck and draws large amounts of power. If the main cables are in good condition there will be ZERO drop or very little less than 0.2 volts. The existing main ground cables going to the block are more that enough. If you do a voltage drop test of your cables your going to find out if you have weak ground cables or positive cables. Anything over 0.2 volts voltage drop is a fail for the cables. This load test is done using the load of the starter. You can remove the fuel pump relay from the PDC and allow for longer cranking periods. As for the voltage drop test. As for charging and the battery temp sensor. There is no need in swapping charge the W-T ground mod back to the drivers battery. The voltage will be THE SAME on both batteries. The battery temp sensor will remain on the driver side battery. If the passenger side battery is going bad regardless of the battery temp sensor the voltage is still the same to both batteries it just the PCM can sense passenger battery condition. The point at which the charge lead is hooked to the passenger battery will not affect the charging ability. What will impact the charging ability is the fact you have either a bad positive cable that is failing (drop > 0.2 volts) or ground cable to the block that is failing (drop > 0.2). Adding an extra ground will not fix this but mask the true issue of the bad grounds to the block. The largest load is the starter at 700 amps. Second largest is the grid heaters at 195 amps. Just like in the photo here I've got eight 6V batteries and in two banks. As you can see I've got a battery temp sensor here only on one of the eight batteries. Regardless of the way I hook up the charge from the hydro generator or the solar it still going to charge the same. If the battery to the left should fail then battery temp sensor will never see it but the battery will still be gassy. You can see the left battery towards the top is the negative and then the right battery towards the bottom is the positive side. Every thing is hooked up with bus bars. No different than our mighty Cummins just I do it with eight batteries instead of two batteries. AGAIN... THERE IS NO GAINS TO ADDING A SECOND GROUND BETWEEN BATTERIES. Cummins block can handle more current than a two ought cable could. Ground should be kept SHORT AS POSSIBLE. Which the factory two cables do this exact function and use the block for the rest.

I get just a puff out of mine. The biggest thing for cleaning up the smoke is to have more timing in the right spot. This would be a limit on Smarty because you only can select 4 levels of timing. But no way to control where the retard is and where the advancement is. The only difference between us is the timing factor. I ran that trip solely on CANBus fuel only just like what Smarty can do, but I can adjust timing to meet the needs of the injectors hence just a puff of smoke. The fuel injector difference is 7 x 0.009 vs 7 x 0.010. I'm also popped a bit higher which adds to being cleaner. Like after a bit of tweaking and what not. I found optimally for me is about 23* (cruise) at 2,000 RPM, under load climbing about 17* at 2,000 RPM. With the 245/75 R16 tires I'm at prefect 2,000 RPM's at 66 MPH. This reduced my engine load greatly and spool is pretty darn quick. I've actually spun the tires a few times just launching from lights on my trip even on dry pavement, hitched up.. Yup, she spools fast. Now my economy tune is different and the cruise state is lower, the fuel map is different, even the retard amount is different. Still can touch 21 MPG. TOWING TUNE TIMING Again. I can set my cruise state timing and when does it actually hit cruise state timing. I can set the amount of retard when you get into the throttle. Then load base timing I can set how much retard base on engine load after cruise state is cancelled. TOWING TUNE TIMING Being I made that haul to AZ with the RV 17,300 GCW (62 feet long total). Seen 14.7 MPG (Max) and 12.6 MPG for Average. This is the trip down. My trip back was lower and bucking wind and rain storms. (as seen in the background of what I just came through) The only thing I could suggest is go towards the Smarty Touch and get all the bit and pieces so you could write a custom tune beyond what S0-3 tune can do. Then you can get the timing correct for your application of parts and work loads. The problem with Smarty is going to be cap out in timing as Me78569 has proven in his data logs which with your change in turbo and injectors won't quite fit as good. The other option is flip to the "dark side" and grab a Quadzilla which don't require the cost like Smarty Touch does and requires PC to do programming.

Battery drain is pretty easy to detect. Grab a good digital Multi meter with Amp meter. Pull each fuse one at a time in the PDC and cab fuse panels. Now insert the probes into the fuse socket. This will measure the current across that circuit. When the high drain is found you'll at least know what circuit. Look in the power distribution section. This wire map works for all years.

I'm going to say its a flop. After my trip to Arizona and seeing long grades 10 to 20 miles long where the turbo is spooled up 15 to 17 PSI constantly. That little battery won't last long. Especially when your climbing then level off, then climb again. I would say in racing its a different thing where the driver is constantly on the throttle and back out again. Where most of us just set the cruise and stay even rate and speed. Where will that charge come being we don't power then let up in the corners like racing. Can't charge will being spooled. Like my trip home I bucked head wind the entire way and stay in the spool constantly. Standard turbo now are expensive, then you look at the pure cost of a VGT turbo on the 4th gens and up, even more expensive. Then this new technology with a controller, battery, electric motor, etc. Most of use won't be able to afford it. (Check the links).

If you don't see the WTS light then the ECM never booted and the engine is brain dead and will not run.

Fuel pump relay drop is will cut the power to the PSG and the the P1689 code is tripped. As for @wil440 I thought it was the Fuel shutdown lead. That showed the pulses?

Start off with... Pull and test your alternator for excessive AC noise. Replace if the AC noise level is too high. Then make sure to test the new alternator before leaving the store. I've had wiped out a store after having them pull 2 alternators and had then both fail on the bench. Any error codes? Any check engine lights? I need to know if the ECM is damaged. Not always will it just fail with code but clues might be given. This article is to reduce excessive AC noise from jumping off the alternator charge lead into the ground strip heading into ECM and VP44. This one is optional, but it will protect your PCM from shorts in the alternator.

Nothing.... OEM power pack does nothing, order a second power pack still nothing. No charge light. No bootup, no turning on. Like no power at all. I'm going to try and see if Asus will repair it. I'call a high school buddy that does Computer Repair in Las Vegas, He won't touch it. Most of the little computer places around me don't want to touch it either. It died back in January when I was busy tending to @MoparMom before she passed on. Now I've been really wanting to get it fixed but can't find anyone to fix it. After M73M.Com buying this I really can't just toss it out after barely a year and buy another. There is only so much I can do on a cell phone. Since my master computer here at home has all my work stuff still only means I can work at home. If I travel I'm limited in what can do. Make thing more fun I've been fight with my left hand being I've got nerve damage to my middle finger and ring finger at the tips. Numbness. Cellphone makes it worse. Much easier to push the mouse no as nerve racking (no kidding). Even better I'm left handed.

You could send the entire harness to @Auto Computer Specialist they can rebuild engine harnesses.

Last I knew the brake light switch is on a ratchet adjustment. Being the pedal fell should not make a difference. Normal brake pedal travel should not affect the switch adjustment. Like re bleeding the brakes full travel to the floor.

Sure does put the finger on Democrats.

Exactly. I've got a logging company in New Meadows, ID all they use in all the truck is Delo as well. Even right down to -40*F winter temperature. No block heaters, etc. Service trucks and all equipment is all running Delo for this entire company. Being I happen to know the crew pretty well and bring my waste oil for dumping.

I typically do a flush with engine off and the front axle lifted off the ground. route the steering gear box return to a waste bucket. NOTE: Do not use the hydro-booster return. Then plug the reservoir fitting and refill. Now go lock to lock with the engine off slowly. This action will self pump the enitre system dry and you continue to pour fluid in till the return line fluid is clean. Typically it takes about 1 gallon to flush and then refill and prime. Refill and prime is easy too. Leave the axle up. Now rehook the return line, refill and go lock to lock again till the air is push out. Let settle for a 15 minutes and check again. Top off and start chaeck again for air or foaming. Allow to settle with engine off. @Haggar could you re-write the article for the hydrobooster making a new updated article with your rebuild please?

For sure bigger fuel system needed.

Should be snap rings and circlips. The tool for these are very handy. 415k miles on my hydrobooster I've seen dampness only once then it stopped after changing my power steering fluid. Still using petroleum WalMart Supertech and still going. Changing my power steering fluid at 30k miles.

Remember P1693 code is just a signal that the opposite computer is having issues. Being most likely the PCM is calling the P1693 and ECM is not responding then I would say you might be looking at ECM problem. This could be reversed to if the ECM is reporting the P1693 code then PCM could be having the problems. Best answer... Send them both out and have them tested.

Last time I checked I was around 65k to 67k per year. Heck just with the trip to AZ I put over 2,000 miles on in 2 weeks. Just fun facts... Using 400k miles on the clock. If you change oil every 3k miles that would be 133.3 oil changes. That would be 366.6 gallons of oil. (oil change shops), 8.72 barrels. If you change oil every 7.5k miles that would be 53.3 oil changes. That would be 146.6 gallons of oil, 3.49 barrels. If you change oil every 10k miles that would be 40 oil changes. That would be 110 gallons of oil, 2.61 barrels. If you change oil every 15k miles that would be 26.6 oil changes. That would be 73.3 gallons of oil, 1.74 barrels. 42 gallons in a barrel oil.

Just another note here... Nothing should be tied to the battery terminals the only one exception is grid heater power supply. Nothing else should be tied to the batteries directly. No lift pump, no nothing. Those should all go into the PDC on the BATT terminal. No grounds are bolted to battery terminals either unless on exception is the W-T ground wire mod if you build the extra ground lead from the drive side battery to the bolt on the gear case (optional).

Just a heads up that you can send your whole engine harness to Auto Computer Specialist and they will test and rebuild your harness for you.

Typically frame.

There is a ground strap at the front on the driver side fender near the headlight. There is a few ground wires near the ABS pump.

1998.5 to 2000 had both cam and crank sensors. 2000 to 2002 had just cam sensor. Tone wheels are very different between the two designs. The early is just a single tooth on the cam then a tone ring on the actual crank. This ended in 2000... Then starting in 2000 was the change over to a multi-tooth ring on the cam gear and move the cam sensor inward towards the hub of the cam gear. When you look at wiring diagrams the crank sensor was only moved to the cam. The cam sensor was deleted. The tone ring on the crank deleted.