Mopar1973Man

Add in the work done. I went on a ride with @IBMobile he started to have wheel bearing issues on the passenger side. I made the run to Lewiston, ID to get the unit bearing for him. Dan got his front wheel bearing. Next we started to play with bearing on my trailer the first one we check had metal. I'm just going to pick up all 4 axle bearings and repack. My RV is going to get serious milage this time. I've got an appointment at 11am today to get new rubber on @Wet Vette Hyundai and new rubber on my truck. Tires are already been order and delievered to Riggins, ID and a killer price. All in all it been a blast having both @IBMobile and @JAG1 here.

Manual transmissions all will launch without any throttle. The ECM governor will throttle up to hold the 800 RPM's. Like on my truck with such large injectors (7 x 0.010) its more likely to stall without throttle because the ECM can't react fast enough at times. With stock or near stock RV275 (Stock RV injectors for motorhomes) then they normal launching will occur.

I've towed both ways with a WD hitch and without. On heavy loads like hay hauling or hauling a tractor its not going do much with that trailer tongue when its more closer to 3,000 pounds. Even with my RV at 8,500 GVWR that is 15% on the tongue is roughly 1,275 pounds on the hitch. I will say with a WD hitch is much nicer towing. Without isn't impossible but you can feel a difference.

So far I've got @JAG1 and @IBMobile here at my place. The very first night they got here @IBMobile dove in and fixed my passenger side window. I was having trouble with the window motor jamming up at the bottom. After a bit Dan got it fixed up and all put back together. Thanks IBMobile for the fix! After that looked at his truck and passenger side front bearing is fried out. The next day I had to got to Lewiston for supplies anyways so I ran and got Dan's front wheel bearing and got it here. Today I've got a few side projects to handle like Tracie Reed and here 2010 6.7L Cummins and few other thing but I've got to get focused on getting my RV ready to go. Oh another weird on was on the first night that both JAG1 and IBMobile showed up good ol Chicken Man called up. Yes your right @dripley. He called up and we had a 4 person get together. JAG1 and IBMobile both enjoyed the phone call and everyone got a good laugh from it all. Really haven't had a lot of time with the guys yet but there is always today... (IBMobile on the left and JAG1 on the right)

Turbo bearing and seals Valve guides and valve seals Vacuum pump seal Tappet cover gasket Rear main seal Front gear case seal Vacuum leak causing vacuum pump to pressurize the crankcase.

Prematex Grey RTV is the meanest silicone it will hold the cover on. It works great for the gearcase cover it works great on diff covers and transmissions.

Shifting... Not a huge difference but just a touch slower on carbon syncros, now on brass syncros seem pretty good for shift speed. Throwout bearing noise is loud on the Valair, lauching on mine for what ever reason the clutch is jerky and grabby. As for performance I've never been capable of spinning that clutch even with the power I create and can roast the rear tires. I would do a second dual disc again but I would go back to South Bend Clutches.

Yes, already pressed in the flywheel. Both South Bend Clutch and Valair have sealed ball bearings for pilots in their flywheels. All you got to do is order a full kit with flywheel.

I would of gone with clear lens on the headlights. I did the crystal clear lens on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 and then added Super Bright LED headlights in the lens. Now those required a ton of readjustment of the beams to make them work and keep from blinding on coming traffic. Make sure to double check your aim afterwards.

I did the stop leak in the 1996 Dodge because of emergency required use of said truck needless to say it quite the mess to clean that junk out the cooling system. Sticky, gunk, that just don't rinse out. I highly suggest not using any stop leak products.

I'm running the Valair Dual Clutch... Let say I won't buy this one twice. I'll return back to South Bend Clutch with a dual disc in their set up. Hold the clutch in the throwout bearing is loud. I've had my transmission out twice and inspect the clutch twice and there is nothing wrong with it. Just a loud clutch. My pilot bearing is sealed ball bearing not needle rollers like stock.

Actually that was a server configuration error. Just dump your cache and cookies. I made a few adjustments that didn't get checked and the system crashed. Sorry gang.

Another way is to cut the vacuum breaker seal on the radiator cap. This will prevent the system from building pressure. It will work for getting around and keeping the coolant in the truck. Do not tow and work the truck hard till this is fixed.

THe ECM and PCM both do NOT have grounding cases. The electrical coming from the ECM is the ground connection typically goes to the passenger side battery. Here is the inside of the ECM it had no ground to the case period!

I'm looking for a shop or some that could look into getting my Asus laptop repaired. I don't want shop that are going to try plugging in new power pack and tell me the motherboard is fried. Then give up. This laptop failed back in November and does not charge with either charger pack I've got. It will not turn on at all. I'm now hunting for a shop that can fix this and not pass me down the line. It's Asus laptop and does not boor or turn on.

Weight distribution hitch is a nice way to go. I would re-use that and re configure for the heavier truck. I had no problem towing into Parma, ID and the returned back up US-95 and headed home. My trailer with the water tank in the full rear of the trailer adds a bit of fun to travel being that water movement. Best to be completely full or near empty. Half tank is the worst.

RV typically weighs in right at about 8,000 pound loaded with water, supplies and two people without of gear. The GCWR is roughly closes to 17,000 pounds typically.

I'm going to be doing a long haul trip at some point to Azionia to drop off a load of belongings for a person which was left behind in Idaho. I have not decided if I'm going to take just the truck and drive straight through or take the RV and mellow when I get there. Last trip with the RV to Boise. Roughly 16 MPG with combo of towing and city driving. I'm actually seeing a flat ground average of about 12 to 13 MPG towing the 31' Jayco Eagle.

The only reason why a heater core will leak is the coolant has not be changed and flushed regular intervals. I will suggest to open up the full HVAC case and clean out everything. Best way to do the job and lube all the pivot points on doors and make sure the blend door coupler is broken.

Yup. Very true... Every time I've tried avoid the HVAC pull down I end up pulling the HVAC because the dust issues, bound up doors from debris. Plugged evaporator more than once... I've done plenty of HVAC cases in Dodge both 2nd (early and late) and 3rd gen bodies. Even the last 3rd Gen was pack so good I had to power wash the evaporator. (Chucklin') You are one of the rare few. I work on trucks that are seriously nasty at times, some are horridly gross... Dodge's, Ford's and even Chevy's... There are way more country bumpkins that good natured folks that maintain there trucks. I just got done helping a guy that is simply beating a Ford to death and in poor condition. Again to get this mans house I had 8 mile drive up a dirt road. No problem. Just there is ranchers, farm trucks, work trucks that don't stay on pavement. Here soon I'll be out in the forest cutting firewood for the house for winter time. I'll have plenty of back road travels. I just did a trip up the Big River (Salmon River) ran up to see how low the snow line was to see time line for firewood. Now all these people I teach them if your going off road or dusty conditions please select MAX A/C setting this closes the door to the outside and keeps the dust out of the evaporator. Basically in a nutshell the evaporator will sweat and the dust collects in the moisture and the blowing air eventually dries the dust into a cake. Debris wise it can be drawn in, fell in the cowl, animals bring it in, etc. I just had a guy down at the other shop ask about a noise in his fan. Pulled the blower out to find a dead mouse in the cage. Just because you take care of your vehicle doesn't mean it going to be perfect inside the case either. Like this gent he's got a wonderful Ford luxury car and there was dead mouse in the case. Like my last trip to Boise there was seed pods blowing off the trees everywhere. They where small enough to make is through my entire HVAC case and blow out the vents. It does happen...

So the pump is having issues... Something is seized up like timing piston hence its working after cooldown with water.

Personally, I say the cranking pressure is too high. Pull the belt on the hot start I bet it starts fine.

Like myself I've been on 1/2" lines and AirDog 150 and not the 4G AirDog 165. Pressure swings are minimal at about 2 to 3 PSI from Idle to WOT. Never had a problem with 1/4 tank issues really. Last tank of fuel I ran completely down to EMPTY mark without much issues. Been set up this way since 2006.

First check the headlight fuses both left and right have separate fuses. Then double check the grounds in the cab in the driver side kick panel.

Might be for city folks that never see a dirt road or go offroad. When you live out here and there is more dirt roads than pavement then the HVAC gcase get pretty bad. I stopped taking photos after then article was made. Everyone I still open out here even the 3rd Gen I last done was pack for dirt and dust. Still best to clean it up, than short cutting. How about the drain holes on each side of the cowl that lets dirt and dust back in? How about the mice crawling in there. Remember a member (Rhode Island) fighting mice and rodents off and plugging the cowl drain with stainless steel pot scrubbers. What I mean exactly... I don't own a pavement princess, I own a WORK truck!