Mopar1973Man

Yeah I totally missed this is 3rd Gen trucks... Yes its ATF fluid its is correct. No. I destroyed my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon with lift kits and oversized truck which forced me to replace my 1972 Dodge (202k miles when it left my care) with the 2002 Dodge I've got now. The 1972 Dodge only barely had 202k miles and I broke the front axles numerous times. Snap the wheel joints, ball joint failed quickly, damaged the tie rod ends. Broke and rebulit 3 different steering boxes. Burned up 2 power steering pumps. This why I turned from the leveling to stock setup. This is because the engineers design it to have particular geometry and when you alter that design then the driveability and stability is lost, then longevity is sacraficed. 1972 Dodge Power Wagon 1973 Dodge Charger SE (hence my nickname this was my first car) 1976 Dodge Power Wagon (Mom's) 1977 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome 1978 Dodge Magnum XE 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 (Cummins) I've never played with Mopars...

Like myself I've got two 2nd Gen trucks one is a 1996 Dodge 1500 and then the 2002 Dodge 2500 seen above. This truck I dropped the oversized (235/85 R16) tire the previous owner ran to the 215/85 R16 and this truck is now a rocket ship on rails. Rake is level once the trailer is loaded. This truck has a 187k miles and the ball joints, tie rod ends, power steering pump and gear box are all OEM original yet. Towing improved, again gear ratio is 3.70:1 final with a 3.55 axles. This transmission is a 46RE auto so with the smaller tires it better MPG and lower drag because it lower to the pavement.

Wrong fluid NEVER use ATF in these system it will ruin the pump and gear box seals. MUST use strictly power steering fluid. Then the baster method does not work the entire system holds nearly 2 quarts. You only getting a few ounces out. You need to do a full flush of the system. Pull the return line from the gear box route it into a bucket. Then with the axle raised and engine off but steering unlocked go lock to lock slowly and the gear box will pump all the fluid out. Then keep filling the system till the fluid coming out is clean. Then hook up the line and top off and work the wheel again lock to lock a few times to work the air out. Check the fluid level. Now drop to the floor and start the engine go for a drive. Check the fluid again if foamy let it set and top off again. Power Steering fluid should be changed every 3 years or 30,000 miles or which comes first. Power Steering Fluid ONLY - NO ATF! Synthetics not suggested... 415k miles still got my factory pump. The rake is there for trailer towing or heavy bed load like his slide in camper. Leveling kits just distroy the geometry of the axle and create instability. So as you put any load in the bed the truck will squat. Basically now you got to do what @JAG1 does and now add air bags to the rear to gain level again while hauling weight. Should just return to stock height or most of 1 inch leveling kit. Even @JAG1 was fighting instability with his truck now drop back to 1 inch leveling kit and gain back some. JAG1 truck hidden partial by the tree... Yup I've got to play with his truck too... Tidbit... Dodge switch to ATF in 2003. This is because the Saginaw steering box was replaced by a Ford power steering pump and Ford steering box. So 2003 and foreward is all Ford Steering equipment. As for the past that was all Saginaw Steering boxes and require Power Steering fluid NOT ATF. (Note: I didn't see any signature information I assumed 2nd Gen body... It's 3rd Gen body as the tpoic is posted here.) Another tidbit... As I check scale weight often. Empty my front axle is typically 4,400 pounds. With my Trailer hitch up it 4,250-4,300 pounds (depends on how much tongue weight). This is because of the leverage of my load pull the weight off the front axle. I've got a weight distribution hitch as well. Without it it get much lighter in the front. The frame turns into a long lever with any load in the bed. Hence the natural rake is to keep the weight on the front axle for stability and control of the vehicle. With a leveling kit you taking that rake load off the front axle and losing control.

As long as your using the 35w ballast for the bulbs they should last a very long time. The 50w ballast would be brighter but shortens the bulb life considerably. I opted for only the 35w blubs and ballast.

That is exactly what i seen over the Edge Comp. Look at the silicone boot at Vulcan Performance or DAP. Stock boots if you need to make them stick. Spray Home Depot Orange degreaser on the nipples and wipe off. Then spray the boot and wipe the boot off clean. Then spray the boot again and install. Thew orange degreaser will make the boot slick feeling and slide on easy but as soon as it dries it lock on ther you will need a screwdriver to pry it off typically. Works great on my stock boots and even my Vulcan Performance boots.

Never bothered with a spare set of lights. Already like 2 or 3 years old of every other day of driving to Ontario, OR. I typically ran my headlight there and back ever day. There is a lot of running hours on my headlights. If one blows I would most likely replace both bulbs at the same time with 5k when the time comes.

What size tires are you running to require a 2 inch leveling kit? I've also got to ask is it 2WD or 4WD? I'm at 415k miles. I've never had death wobble or loose steering ever. The biggest factor is leveling kits and over sized tires create the stress on the track bar and steering box. Then the leveling kit distorts the the geometry of the front axle as you use leveling kits its pushing the axle down and rearward. Then it changes the caster of the front tires. I need more information on tires sizes, what you use the truck for etc. Being I'm running 245/75 R16 I was able to take an upgrade to quick ratio steering box. This is not suggest with tires over 31" inches. Quick ratio steering boxes cannot handle extra stress from over sized tires (greater than 31") or lift kits. This make my steering tight and quick to react. Smaller tire have little leverage on the steering system so darting is way less common. Since I'm running the 245/75 R16 tires it had giving me a good bump in towing power making the final ratio 3.69:1 instead of 3.55 with 265/75 R16 tires. This provides way more towing power and makes the truck quicker than any oversize tire could. Funny I just out towed a 4th gen with a RV walk right round him. Since I've always used smaller tires my tie rods ends lasted 350k miles, ball joints on this set ar over 200k miles. Track bars are going 150k miles. Steering box OEM lasted 350k miles seal leaking. Brakes go 200k to 300k miles now. At 66 MPH I'm exactly 2k RPM's on the tach. I've done several high speed studies with the smaller tires I'm lower drag in wind (less vertical face) so even at 80 MPH twisting 2,450 RPM I'm still getting 21 MPG (empty truck). 62 feet long, 17,300 pounds, capable of 14.1 MPG, right around 500 HP with Quadzilla and 7 x 0.010 injectors. 415k miles on the clock and just hauled 1,800 miles to AZ and back to ID. Only trouble I had was trans temp. (115 to 118*F down there) Need adjust able track bar to reset the thrust angles to correct. Lift kit cancel out the natural self center where the axle have a back lean to aid in centering now you push the axle down and rearward the caster is gone so it darts. Ball joint will be a common task to continue doing if there is over sized tires. I will beat the ball joint constantly. Smaller the tire below 32" will prevent that. As for high quality ball joints they really don't exist with over sized tires. Like my truck I stuck in a set of CHEAP Rockauto ball joints 200k miles ago and still tight. The only way to extend the ball joint life is going down in tire size and keeping the tire narrow if possible. Wide face tires put a lot of stress on the ball joint every time your turn the wheel. Never needed one or used one. Geometry is way out on the front axle between the lift kit and any over sized tires. Thrust angle is alter because the axle is push down and the solid track bar length forces the axle to be to the driver side of the truck. So now the natural straight line is gone.

Then we need to flip over to CCD network issues. Possibly a PCM issue too.. Remember the ECM is a secondary computer and does not create the CCD network. Only the PCM can create the network.

Best to do adjustable track bar. Get the geometry right because a little bit off does effect drag and tire wear (enhances). The other thing is 2 inch leveling kit tend to make the truck squat more with any trailer hitched or load in the bed. I see this really common and look horrid. If I want my truck levelled just hitch up the 31 foor Jayco or my wood trailer and she will sit dead level. Now if I had a 2 inch leveling kit it would be squatting like a broke back Ford's we have those out here too. Just stock height, stock 245's tires, no lift and just 8,100 pounds of trailer behind. No air bags either.

I've also used 4 Seasons products in my truck and others without any issues or failure yet, still going.

Mechanical gauge needed right now to verify the actual fuel pressure.

Ignition switch replacement most likely if the dash lights stay on. If the dash is still it up then the ECM and PCM could be too. Might look at those wire and double check there is nothing modified that could hold power to the run leads.

Kind of like us. The 1996/1997 flood was high enough to cover the highway but the river was long ways from us. River flooding isn't the problem but the mountain run off is the problem. We are not required for flood insurance. My guest house / shop has been flooded more times I care to count.

Same here...

I look at the fact of any Ford you buy its going require a two post lift to do any engine work. Most people don't own a two post lift and do not have the desire to work on Ford Diesels. I've worked on a few of the newer Fords diesel for simple things like an alternator turns into a challenge because of the amount of stuff crammed under the hood. Ford trucks are not easy to work on being most of the engine is buried in tubes, and other devices so bad you can see the valve covers. Simple tasks like changing a thermostat or valve cover gasket always turns into something more (removal wise). Working on 4th Gens are no fun either but way better than the Ford. You can get to the injectors fairly easy. Just like the Inctors on a CR engine are roughly $4,000 for a set of good quality new injectors. About 2 to 3 hours to do injectors being the amount of stuff to remove and access the valve cover to do injectors. I will admit with a good tune the 4th gen can produce serious power, then stack in upgraded injectors you can be in the 700 HP range pretty quick.

Now you may want to read over the tuning guides by both Me78569 and myself. All kinds of goodies on tuning and building tunes.

I just ran from New Meadows, ID to Mohave Valley, AZ and travelled 1,800 miles there and back. My towing tune did extremely well and could possibly reach 14 MPG. EGT's on level 3 of the Quadzilla I would run just right at 1,100 to 1,200*F EGT's pulling 6 and 7% grades cruise set for 65 MPH. I'm not running a standard 7 x 0.010 but had it popped to 320 bar. Clean running very rare is a puff of smoke but just haze if your deep in the power. Even with day time temps at 105*F no issues when I left. Towing a 31 foot Jayco Eagle RV and scale out at 17,300 pound GCW. Warning my towing tune is running some high timing and highly suggested to have studs.

Being this was a long over do vacation for me without limits. I spent nearly 2 weeks out there at @Wet Vette daughter place in Arizona. I did Codie a favor and fixed his A/C on his 2016 Ford Focus which he was ready to give up one and sell now he wants to keep it. Nice and cold. Enjoyed some tourism went out to Oatman, AZ and Kingman, AZ. The COVID-19 lock down had most of the the tourism shut down yet. Then when we thought we can wait a few days and go again then the George Floyd thing started. While in Kingman, AZ I was informed by both the Chamber of Commerce and a Jewelry store owner was packing up for a few weeks and getting out because of the Black Lives Matter was invited by the mayor of Kingman. I bailed out and head back to Mohave Valley. Then there was a surge in temperature and I got stuck waiting for a cooler day to haul out. I go back another time again most likely in December.

After making my trip to Mohave Valley, AZ and back to New Meadows, ID. There is a bit of difference between us. I'm running 245/75 R16 tires allowing me to run at the peak torque and EGT's are much lower and so is my engine oil temperature. I run just level 3 of my tune I've got enough power with my setup that I can still break the tires lose from the light or stop if I get into the pedal too hard. Quadzilla HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) BHAF 4 Inch exhaust (Diamond Eye) 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar Average 12.6 MPG 245/75 R16 tires (30.6 Inches) final ratio is 3.69:1 Engine oil temp floated between 170 to 180 on the flats. Grades only barely touched 190*F EGT's barely touch 1,200*F with cruise set most grades 65 MPH. EGT wise I did pretty good and did not downshift a lot. 1,800 miles total trip. Down to the hottest piece of hell. (Mohave Valley, AZ) RV being towed is my 31 foot Jayco Eagle scaled out I was at 17,300 GCW.

More photos... Mohave Valley, AZ Oatman, AZ in the background... Did the math on the trip... Scale Weight 17,300 GCW Idaho to Arizona - $180 (12.6 MPG) Arizona to Idaho = $227 (10.8 MPG) Running speeds of 65 MPH for most of the trip. The only time I slowed down was for winds and weather issues. Few times I backed down for transmission temp and knowing my climb was going to be longer than I had temp room for. After the heat shield the trans temp issue is more or less mute. 190*F or lower for the entire trip home. Oh... I'll be posting up my RV tune I used for this 1,800 mile trip.

I'm Home!! This trip back was rough. It was about 108*F out when I left Mohave Valley, AZ. Amazingly the heat shield did really well I ran up to 65 MPH towing. The entire trip from Mohave Valley, AZ to Las Vegas, NV is all uphill climb. Both the engine 200*F and transmission 195*F ran warm did very well. We stopped in Crystal Valley, NV for the night at a rest area. Got up and got going and this day was nothing but a struggle. Winds gusty and either bucking head winds ot nasty side wind gust. Just outside Ely, NV got so bad I pulled off and went back in the RV to rest let the storm pass. Lighten up and got back on the pavement rolled out. Made it to Twin Falls, ID and the wind picked up again. Made it barely to Bliss, ID again the winds got bad and shoving me around. Stopped for the night and the RV battery was near dead. The plug (RV) or socket (truck) has a weak connection on the BATT+ pin because all the lights on the trailer work but the RV battery was near dead from the previous night. Using a pocket knife to scrap the contacts I got it to start charging. I set the heat for 65*F in the RV and went to bed. I got up this morning to the heater barely running and lightly blowing air (cold). Look at the volt gauge and the battery was down to 8.7 Volts. Fire up the truck which woke @Wet Vette up, I got the furnace running and heated up a cup of coffee. Got up and got hauling again... Another day of fighting winds (ughhhh). Got to Boise, ID and figure I would run Hwy 55 instead of 95. Got to the canyon and the wind stops (good) but I'm looking up canyon I see snow. (really?) By the time I made the 17 mile climb to the top I was in 4WD and now driving in about 1 to 2 inches of snow. Get to McCall, ID and drop back to the valley floor and it looking like massive spring time, meadows are super green, flowers every where, light rain. Now the weather calms down from New Meadows to home was like a nice normal day... Last 20 miles smooth sailing but the other 860 miles mother nature beat my . I'm wore out and I'm home safe and sound...

I did. The climb to 7,200 feet was a heck of a climb then fighting winds. My whole trip back to Idaho got me 11.13 MPG 3 times in a row. I fueled again at Jackpot, NV for 11.31. I was forced to stop in Bliss, ID for the night. Did good on MPG performance. Also just found out the wind tore off my under belly of my kitchen holding tank. Wind was really bad last night.

ELY, NV... stopped to feed and fuel. Hsading home to Idaho.

I know the feeling....

I've got extra PAG oil on hand and just dip the o-rings.