Mopar1973Man

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Dynamic built 46RE into a 47RE on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. As for my suggestion is double check the output speed sensor on the tailshaft. Mine was shifting at all weird times sometimes hold a gear excessively or down shift early.

Maybe a bad multifunction switch

Super sweet looking truck! I also like the logo too...

Power wash the engine off and use a good degreaser. Take the truck for short drive just a few miles. Then search the engine for a new wet oil spot or oil weeping. Common leak places are... Vacuum pump seals Tappet cover (cam cover). Front crank seal Gear case cover. Unscrew your oil cap while idling if the cap moves you've got excessive blow by. Rare to see on our trucks. Really common on the "Common Rail" engines.

The right is the new style NAPA which I'm using currently. The one on the left is the previous model napa which I've used in the past. Here is the junk Cummins T-stat... Be aware that Cummins DOES NOT manufacture any thermostats. This design started by Reobertshaw which no longer produces thermostats and then handed this off to Mr. Gasket. So you Cummins thermostats is not Cummins Design at all. The original design was produced by MotorRad back in 1998.5 to 2002 and you can no longer by that thermostat. Another member with Cummins thermostat that seperated... Robertshaw 330 - Called and verified no long manufacturing... https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/robertshaw-330-160-degree-thermostat Then Mr. Gasket. Which is now products by Holley... Current manufacture. https://www.holley.com/products/cooling/thermostats/parts/4365

Lift and leveling kits are typically the cause of front end steering issues. This all stems from the fact you alter the geometry of the axle. I left my truck stock and every thing last much longer. Ball joints 200k and counting, tie rod ends 350k miles on OEM, track bars 150k miles, steering box 350k miles. Etc. If you want to short the life your front end just add a leveling kit and bigger wheels. Then you can cut this in Half or even less. I'm running 245/75 R16 tires (30.5 Inch), no lift, no leveling kits... Truck in my sig.

Been running only NAPA thermostats no issues. Typically doing 75k miles and do coolant flush and fresh thermostat. Matter of fact I found my last Cummins thermostat I changed for a customer being it fell apart. Ill post a photo when I get home.

Another 1 million mile truck coming... 900k is very impressive. Keep going. 415k miles... I'm another lap back and forth to the moon behind.

Like myself I've had a long conversation with Michael Fabian (Facebook member) the conversation gone on for over 3 hours discussing about VP44 and fuel system design and how to improve. We both agree that fuel pressure is optimal for 99% of people here for 14 to 20 PSI. There is nothing to gain above this. There is lots to lose for fuel pressure below 14 PSI. I know several have mention how they ran 5 to 10 PSI without any problems but the life span typically end up being shorten from low pressure. Being I've actually check that when the pressure is below 14 PSI the overflow starts to close and then its completely closed at 10 PSI. The extra cooling and lubing will end at 10 PSI. The 10 to 14 PSI may vary from valve to valve a bit but the cooling and lubing does slow way down in the range and stops for the most part at 10 PSI.

I never even look at the fuel pressure gauge just watch for the light if pressure is low.

Already got over 100k miles on my current pump. I'll most likely make 250k miles again.

My old warning light I've home crafted for my DiPricol Fuel Pressure gauge which had no warning light. The red warning lamp will catch your eye just enough you don't have to look at the gauge but the level the light pops on at. Bottom I know is EGT's, middle is fuel pressure, the boost on top.

For me only drop about 2 PSI from Idle to WOT. Set for about 17-18 PSI and stops at about 14 to 15 PSI. Very very stable. 250k miles on my first AD 150 pump after 13 years. Lots of idle time!

You can drive it home but longer you drive it the way it is the more damage is being done to the VP44. The VP44 injection pump needs to have return fuel flow at 14 PSI to 20 PSI so there is cooling fuel present and excess fuel to lube the pump. Being that your below 14 PSI the return valve is CLOSED there is no cooling and no extra lubing for the pump.

No holes, no cuts, no duct tape. I just lifted right up between the exhaust pipe and turbo and lifted the cab right near the outer heater hose.

Here is what I'm using is a Vulcan Performance fuel pressure tester. 0 to 30 PSI gauge. This is much more accurate than a 0 to 100 PSI gauge. This is 1/2 pound tick marks in the red. I even got all the fittings for all types of fuel systems. 

Nope, all the way towards the cab and all the way up. Not quite. Ive gotta lean over a bit to see the bed corner.

Lift pump is dead time to replace. AirDog, Fass, mechanical belt driven, etc

ZERO. I placed the stud in the hole. Then using a 2x6 lifting from the floor up to the cowl using a floor jack I slowly jacked the cab up nearly an 1/2 inch and the stud fell in the hole by itself. The rubber of the cab mount compressed over the years and just need to lift the cab slightly just about 1/2 inch and plunk in the stud. NO HOLES DRILLED or CUT in the cowl.

Do not cut the cowl. Jack up the cab. Not required

Never... If anyone sees me in a prius please I give you permission to just shoot my ... Picture proof...

Nope. @MoparMom was the political master. She was on top of all the gov't and religious stuff. To this day I watch and listen to what is coming and remember all the teaching that Mom gave me. Being I'm way out here in the forest of Idaho I'm well protected where I'm at. As for all the unrest currently is mostly in DemocRAT controlled states like Oregon where @JAG1 is or California where @IBMobile is. My rule of thumb back in the day was let the dogs out, if they didn't eat you then the rifle came out. Now its looking out the window and if I don't like what I see the pistol is typically close at hand. I will defend my family and my property period.

When the actual battery voltage goes from 12.00 Volts to 11.99 Volts it will set the check gauge light and the volt gauge will fall to 8 Volts even though the voltage is 11.99 Volts and this is normal function. W-T ground wire mod is REQUIRED. This will fix the shift issues and electronic noise issues. No most likely not. If the alternator is damaged and creating large amount of AC noise it will flood the entire system including the CCD network that allows all the computers to talk. But it like screaming over a loud room of people, then there is a guy in the room make tons of noise flooding out the conversation and now the computers can hear whats being said between each other. Replace your alternator and test your new one BEFORE you leave the store. Do the W-T ground wire Mod. Do the PCM protection fuse Mod. Send your PCM off to Auto Computer Specialist. Let them test and repair your PCM. I'm also a customer after my PCM was fried by a bad alternator. After I've done this alternator and charging problems all STOPPED!

Typical spots for coolant to leak is the ends of the head. Like my truck leaked on the coolant passage at the rear of the head on the passenger side. The other spot is at the front of the head on the passenger side. Where your at in the picture is not a common spot for water or coolant. I had oil in most of the holes I insert the ARP 425 studs into and required a bit a torque to twist the bolts down to bottom of the holes. then back off and just seat them. Finding this picture it could be coolant being the coolant passage is right near that bolt hole possibly if I'm seeing it right.