Mopar1973Man

For me only drop about 2 PSI from Idle to WOT. Set for about 17-18 PSI and stops at about 14 to 15 PSI. Very very stable. 250k miles on my first AD 150 pump after 13 years. Lots of idle time!

You can drive it home but longer you drive it the way it is the more damage is being done to the VP44. The VP44 injection pump needs to have return fuel flow at 14 PSI to 20 PSI so there is cooling fuel present and excess fuel to lube the pump. Being that your below 14 PSI the return valve is CLOSED there is no cooling and no extra lubing for the pump.

No holes, no cuts, no duct tape. I just lifted right up between the exhaust pipe and turbo and lifted the cab right near the outer heater hose.

Here is what I'm using is a Vulcan Performance fuel pressure tester. 0 to 30 PSI gauge. This is much more accurate than a 0 to 100 PSI gauge. This is 1/2 pound tick marks in the red. I even got all the fittings for all types of fuel systems. 

Nope, all the way towards the cab and all the way up. Not quite. Ive gotta lean over a bit to see the bed corner.

Lift pump is dead time to replace. AirDog, Fass, mechanical belt driven, etc

ZERO. I placed the stud in the hole. Then using a 2x6 lifting from the floor up to the cowl using a floor jack I slowly jacked the cab up nearly an 1/2 inch and the stud fell in the hole by itself. The rubber of the cab mount compressed over the years and just need to lift the cab slightly just about 1/2 inch and plunk in the stud. NO HOLES DRILLED or CUT in the cowl.

Do not cut the cowl. Jack up the cab. Not required

Never... If anyone sees me in a prius please I give you permission to just shoot my ... Picture proof...

Nope. @MoparMom was the political master. She was on top of all the gov't and religious stuff. To this day I watch and listen to what is coming and remember all the teaching that Mom gave me. Being I'm way out here in the forest of Idaho I'm well protected where I'm at. As for all the unrest currently is mostly in DemocRAT controlled states like Oregon where @JAG1 is or California where @IBMobile is. My rule of thumb back in the day was let the dogs out, if they didn't eat you then the rifle came out. Now its looking out the window and if I don't like what I see the pistol is typically close at hand. I will defend my family and my property period.

When the actual battery voltage goes from 12.00 Volts to 11.99 Volts it will set the check gauge light and the volt gauge will fall to 8 Volts even though the voltage is 11.99 Volts and this is normal function. W-T ground wire mod is REQUIRED. This will fix the shift issues and electronic noise issues. No most likely not. If the alternator is damaged and creating large amount of AC noise it will flood the entire system including the CCD network that allows all the computers to talk. But it like screaming over a loud room of people, then there is a guy in the room make tons of noise flooding out the conversation and now the computers can hear whats being said between each other. Replace your alternator and test your new one BEFORE you leave the store. Do the W-T ground wire Mod. Do the PCM protection fuse Mod. Send your PCM off to Auto Computer Specialist. Let them test and repair your PCM. I'm also a customer after my PCM was fried by a bad alternator. After I've done this alternator and charging problems all STOPPED!

Typical spots for coolant to leak is the ends of the head. Like my truck leaked on the coolant passage at the rear of the head on the passenger side. The other spot is at the front of the head on the passenger side. Where your at in the picture is not a common spot for water or coolant. I had oil in most of the holes I insert the ARP 425 studs into and required a bit a torque to twist the bolts down to bottom of the holes. then back off and just seat them. Finding this picture it could be coolant being the coolant passage is right near that bolt hole possibly if I'm seeing it right.

I used the ISSPro EV2 gauge without color band and the programmed the warning light for when to come on. As you can see my fuel pressure warning light...

Make sure its near the C3 connector and not out by the alternator. Since the PCM creates the 12V source then you should fuse near the source so if the wire shorts to ground it blows the fuse out. You should be fine with a 5A fuse which I'm running. PCM turns on the +12V on the blue wire and then turn on the variable ground on the green wire. This only happens after the PCM detects RPM on the engine. That Blue wire to actual ground should show 12V. Now blue wire (+) and the green wire (-) it should show like the 8 or 9V till the battery charges up then it will drop lower. Normal function of the voltage regulator. It was all a mistake. This web site was named after me and was just going to be a personal notebook. It grew and grew. From a simple static page web site in 2004. To this big beast of server and nearly 15G of data stored on the server. We are handling over 1,500 people per day. I never though it would blow up this big in mere years but now that it going I can stop. I even tried to shut down the site in 2012 and everyone push me to continue on. No one wanted the website to be shutdown. So here we are.... First url was http://frontiernet.net/~mopar1973man (still hold it and the server is empty) Then the actual domain was bought 2007 for mopar1973man.com https://web.archive.org/web/20100612112151/http://www.mopar1973man.com/ https://web.archive.org/web/20110225144704/http://mopar1973man.com/ https://web.archive.org/web/20140916145810/http://www.mopar1973man.com/ https://web.archive.org/web/20171001233057/https://mopar1973man.com/

This is because when you do a leveling kit it push the axle down and away from the the frame as you do the caster angle is made more neutral so center hold is lost and wandering starts. Possibly starts the death wobble. Then the axle tend to pull back because the control arms are too short and need to install adjustable control arms to correct the length. Then since the axle dropped down the track bar is fixed length and tends to pull the axle towards the driver side some and requires a adjustable track bar to correct the thrust alignment. So after install a simple lift kit you now screw the geometry for the entire front axle just to make it look cool. There is lot more to just leveling the truck and many other parts needed to make it right. In 415k miles I've left the front axle completely stock and NEVER ONCE had any steering issues, looseness, wandering or even death wobble EVER! No excessive wear on parts either ball joints last over 200k miles, tie rod ends 350k miles, steering box 325k miles (leaks) etc. Tire life last set was over 100k miles and two winters. Running 245/75 R16 Hankook ATm's. Which is a improvement over the 235/85 R16 I ran and even better than the stock 265/75 R16 tires size which is prone to wearing out the front ends.

Ok I've gone and done it. Since good Ol' @MoparMom passed away. I've now gone and pull my muffler back off the truck and went back to straight piped exhaust again. 4 inch diamond eye, without a muffler will talk to the neighborhood rather well if you deep in the throttle. Now once you reach cruise state its not bad at all. I was shocked at the amount of soot loaded up in the muffler it was like tipping the muffler and bang it once on the ground was like watching black powder fall out pretty good amount too for single tap. All the muffler can was loaded with carbon.

I run... 3.55 axles 245/75 R16 tires (30.5 inches) NV4500 transmission With this combo I'm 2,450 at 80 MPH but twisting out 20 MPG. Then at a prefect 66 MPH I'm at 2,000 RPM still doing 21 MPG. Running up to 2,500 will not harm the engine. I've done it over 100k miles now and seen way better MPG from the change up. The 245's tires change the final ratio to 3.69:1 on the 3.55 gear axles. This give way more torque, so much in fact I can break the tires loose pulling my 8,000 pound RV that is 31 foot long. I'm in 4th gear (direct by 25 to 30 MPH). Even towing the RV I had a hi mark of 14.7 MPG. Avg 12.6 MPG for the trip down. The trip back from AZ was 10.5 MPG bucking harsh head winds. Even better yet @IBMobile is running the 245/75 R16 on his truck with 4.10 gear but his truck is typically strictly used for towing his RV. Bliss, Idaho - Winds had forced me to stop for the night.

Heater element on the mirror burned up. My OEM driver mirror also quit for heat function. After replacement the new works just fine. The element that heats the glass failed. Another note I understand why you see so many with the mirrors up position. In the down position you can get the passenger mirror in enough to even see the body of he truck. When you flip to vertical that problem is gone. The smaller fish eye mirrors are super nice.

Pull all that off. Send the PCM for repair at Auto Computer Specialist in Florida. External regulators are not a good permanent solution. (Only band aid at best). Here is what happened in your PCM. Here is my full tale.. All your damage comes from a failed alternators. Blue lead of the field shorted out and burned up the PCM. I've got a fix for that. Then the other mod to protect the entire truck.

@dieselautopower is typically our go to guy for parts. I'm running a ton of mods as in here is my list of goodies. (4 pages of mods) https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods Just basics... Quadzilla Adrenaline, DAP (7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar) 150HP Injectors, and HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo (60/60/12) with 4 inch exhaust (muffled) and BHAF. I'm right at 500 HP. Towing ready no EGT's issues. Towing 31 foot trailer hit a max of 14.7 MPG and typically empty I'm 20 to 21 MPG.

Truth is the DemocRATS are trying to destroy America to make Trump look bad.

Welcome to the family.

I'm at 415k miles still running stock steering. Still tight and no issues. Replaced my first set of tierods at 350k miles. The biggest secret is not running any leveling kits or oversized tires

I ran all of it... CI-4 when in was common, then CJ-4 when it was common, and CK-4 now. Nothing bad will happen 415k miles later still runs strong and works just fine. I look at it this way all the millions of vehicles loaded with CJ-4 didn't blow up or melt down. Semi trucks, new vehicles (Dodge, Ford and Chevy). I didn't go hunting for only CI-4 because the scare of CJ-4 was so bad. Nope it all worked just fine. Now if I was seeing lots of engine failures and meltdowns from oil related failures. Never did. I check with other local shops and how many thousands of GALLONS of CJ-4 diesel engine oil was sold. No issues reported. Even check the local logging company if they had any issues with CJ-4 oils.If there was a problem with CJ-4 oils do you think a logging company would buy thousands of gallons of CJ-4 that is going to damaged the entire fleet of trucks and skidder equipment? Nope. If there was something bad about CJ-4 I wouldn't be at 415k miles now. I look at the CJ-4 as a hype thing...

Start simple double check all your battery terminals for being clean and tight. Then move on to fuses. Double check all the fuses to see if any fuses blown. All your fuses should be under the hood. See if you can read any error codes too with a Scan tool. But you'll have to get power back first. The error codes might give a clue too. Being that erd gen truck have no relays and the the only thing that control power through the truck is the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) or the fuse box under the hood.