Mopar1973Man

Towing side should look at starting the timing on the low side, this builds your boost quick. About 4 degree step between bands. Then on load based opt for 3 degree. Builds back up power better allowing for some extra turbo spool.

minimum... 10 psi at idle 30 psi at 2,000 RPM At least my 2002 report true pressure yet. Even can see pressure through @Chris O. CCD network tool. Even checked with a mechanical gauge once awhile back. Like 68 PSI at 2k rpm.

Wow that is high... Empty truck 20 to 22% at 66 mph or 2,000 rpm. 31 foot rv at 17,300 pound gcw 33 to 35% at 66 mph or 2,000 rpm.

Adjust your pressure down you are taking a risk of blowing out the front seal on the vp44. 20 psi is the max you want to see. The return port is small in the vp44 and can't return high volumes so the next thing that happen is the front seal pops out.

Actually no standard synthetic is not slick enough and causes chattering og the clutches and bands. The friction modifier stops the chattering by making it slicker. Ask @Dynamic...

Unhooking the batteries will not reset codes or any software. To reset the software turn the key off for 10 seconds. To rest codes you need to fix the problem and reset the codes with OBDII tool.

ATF+4 is already a synthetic. What is required for the 47RE. Plus its loaded with lots of friction modifier.

Only got a 60/60/12 turbo. But still can reach 47 PSI for boost. Im already got ARP 425 studs. Stock is 54/60/12 for HX35W.

No issues, coolant ran 195 to 197, EGTs were normal 600*F at 66 MPH at 2,000 RPM. Even engine oil temp hover at 175*F. Remember my pop pressure is higher and later injection event.

I've ran as high as 23 to 24 degrees of cruise timing at 2k RPM.

Stock... Nozzles are too small really bump up pop pressure. Nozzle atomize the fuel pretty good. The larger injectors get larger droplets so bumping up a bit gives better fine mist. Im only +10 bar over the stock 310 bar.

Also agree... I've done... Stock Injectors - Failed at 150k miles at 260 to 270 bar. (Minimum pop is 293 bar by Dodge FSM standards) RV275 Injectors (used) +50HP Vulcan Performance injectors. +75 HP DAP injectors SAC and VCO injectors. (VCO performed better than SAC) +150 HP DAP Injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar) - CURRENT So far I'm highly impressed with this set of injectors being I've upped the pop pressure, gain cleaner emissions (less smoke), good all around power and lower EGT's. Making roughly 500 HP with the Quadzilla on kill. Typically I drive with my economy tune and the Quadzilla on either 2 or 3 for level depending on what I want for the day. I cut it loose on level 7 on my Arizona trip and it towed wonderful. No EGT issues, low smoke and clears quickly. EGTs were controlled. Total GCW was 17,300 pounds. Most injectors for our trucks are wore out by 100k miles and the pop pressure is too low.

The biggest mistake is do not download with your PC. I get a ton of people asking how to transfer between the PC to the mobile device. Or downloaded on a friends mobile device... ALWAYS download using the same mobile device the iQuad app is on! At least for Android user you download the file(s) with the mobile device, fire up iQuad app, then go back to downloads and tap on the tune file, the screen will flip to iQuad now showing your new file and ask what you want to rename it too. Tune file is ready. (Samsung S10+ Android)

Yup. You phone does it all for the normal operation. You can build tunes on your phone no PC required. The only thing I would suggest is building a spreadsheet for calculating your fuel map and timing maps. I've create a simple one that allows me to play with step rates on fuel and timing and see some of the maps without a need for the Windows Excel sheet here. Since I can't use Microsoft products, I can use my basic spreadsheet in Ubuntu Linux. The only time is firmware updates. Even myself with a Ubuntu Linux PC can update the Quadzilla firmware by running virtualbox and Windows 7. Super rare, for me to fire up that bloated system. Even my PC has a-pillar gauges!!!

I would have to say there is a ABS module issue. If your just idling in 1st gear and it jumping that much there is a module issue. Module Masters in Moscow, Idaho can rebuld that ABS computer for $130 and give a 5 year warranty. They even test the unit for function. I would also look at AC noise issues from possibly the alternator if you not already. AC noise can flood the computer with evnough noise to make the speedometer move even when the vehicle isn't. Hence why the W-T ground mod is required.

Be aware even when my head gasket failed there was no combustion gases in the coolant. Only the coolant leaking out the back of the head on the passenger side. It only randomly leaked too. The day I decided to change the gaskets and do the head job I ran the truck super hard, EGT passing 1,400*F, pulling 3,000 RPM , and came back to the shop and backed in the shop and there was ZERO coolant leaking. Now the night before it leaked a hamburger bun sized puddle on the garage floor.

Lift kits and over sized wheels will cause death wobble for sure. When you get the geometry of the front axles messed up you'll create a good death wobble.

Yeah I'm sorry about the subscription thing but donations wasn't cutting it. It cost quite a bit to keep a server going with this amount of data and keeping all the software bills paid in full. There is an option for monthly at $1.99, $2.99 and $5.99...

Dang... I forgot to get photos dow at the Fire Station. I just ran 80 miles to install batteries in two fire trucks. Now I've got to gear up and head up and do a battery cable replacement on the water tender in the yard.

P0237 code... MAP sensor voltage too low. I would consider unhooking the Quadzilla XZT and the reset the codes. Then go for a test drive. If the code returns then MAP sensor or wiring is the cause. If the code does not come back the Quadzilla XZT boost fooler is burned up.

AC noise issues from the alternator. Do the... Make sure to take the alternator off and have it bench tested for excessive AC noise. Then do the...

In 415k miles I've never had a 5th gear nut issue. Stock transmission never had a issues. First Rebuild was with a upgraded main shaft and standard nut. The torque is pretty high like 550 Ft/lbs Second rebuild again upgraded shaft and 5th gear towing never bothered it. Still going... One of the big causes is the oversize tire puts a lot of stress on the 5th gear. Then the gear starts to rock on the splines. Being I've never ran oversized tires and been undersized the entire life of my truck I've never had one issue with 5th gear nut. Even with the current power level with 500 HP. Never came lose once. Still running Mobil 50 SAE Gear Lube GL-4 Synthetic no issues with the lube oil either. I've had a few batches of defective syncros but that is it.

Yeah, im the one that mention we are in our 50s. Next reason for not a lift as you get older it gets tougher to keep lifting heavy items into high bed or high cab. For me this one reason I bought the BigTex trailer its only 16 inches above the ground and goes off road too for firewood. Another reason giggle about lift kits, Im dragging my 16 inch clearance trailer off road. Truck got more clearance than the trailer, but I can roll large loacs without lifting. Yeah I know your only young once, enjoy life, im over the hill and starting to fall apart. Hips and lower back issues.

Wow. That was a lack of oil failure for sure. Mine were all metal fatigue. First Transmission failed when the main shaft broke at 3rd/4th syncro. Second Transmission took all of 5th gear apart. The little gear broke at least 7 teeth and ruined the bottom gear at 80 MPH.. Now warranty claims Second transmission was upgrade with brass syncros 3rd and 4th failed. (Defective) Second transmission lost 2nd syncro. (Defective) Just clearing 415k on the truck now.

Speedometer signal is at the rear diff. The shift parameter is handled by the PCM by control governor pressure solenoid. If you not done the W-T ground wire mod it would help the issues by removing the AC noise that might trigger weird shifts and low power because tach signal is muddy with stray noises from the alternator charging.