Mopar1973Man

Skip the Rad box... you lose you speedometer when using the RD Box

Not exactly... You can power through but not cruise through. I know @Me78569 could answer this better.

Don't use a butter knife, use a spoon...

I paid $150 for a Cummins MAP senaor about 10 years ago. Very expensive. For you its about 121 pound UK.

Another thing learned today dont leave you peanut butter in the cabinet. Brand new jar and it is liquid at 115°F. You got to keep it in the fridge.

Since im in AZ I found out the locals typically install their water heaters outside and turn off the power. The sun can heat water very well. When I got here I plugged in to city power. Couple days later I started figuring tricks. Like this morning I jump in the shower and it was nice and warm but the water has not burn propane in 2 days. Tossed out my solar panels and charing an awesome 13.8 volts. Its only 7:19am an its...

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Yup, it super hot down here just went up town to get @Wet Vette and myself breakfast to go. Still floating 140°F or so. Does way better around at highway speed, it town traffic and stop and go it will creep a bit. Once back to highway speed it will creep back to around 140°F. So hot my dash just gave me the middle finger and started a new crack in the middle and it already 4 inch long.

Over thinking for sure. Negative cables should be as short as possible to the block not battery to battery. The block is much better bridge than long cable. Battery temp sensor works fine like it is only if both batteries and cables are in good order. The voltage should be the same. Its when the cables and batteries are failing will you see issues. Like myself still have factory cables and only my second set of batteries. Computer wise the W-T ground mod shrinks the ground cables shorter and reducing voltage loss in travel to ground. This cuts off 4 feet of cable and get ground fast from the block on large gauge cable than an extra 4 feet. Then it doesn't help having an AC rich alternator charge lead running parallel to the master ground cable for both the VP44 and ECM. After the W-T ground mod the AC noise will be null 10mV AC on average.

If it was a short it would thriugh a hi volt code P0238 or if it was dropping out it would be a P0237 code. If it was a overbooked issue because the boost fooler it would P0234 code. There is some weird conditions but rare to have a sensor fail within spec. The only thing you could do is replace the sensor. If the Quadzilla boost fooler failed it should run normal without the Quadzilla hooked up.

W-T Ground wire mod, and the PCM protection fuse mod will cure it permanently. All these articles are in the 2nd gen electrical section.

Central timer is above the throttle pedal in the dash. Go look at the CCD network article in the 2nd gen Electric articles wire map and what causes the code. CCD+ and CCD- should be 2.49 and 2.51 volts. Since there is ZERO on one side its either a short to ground in the computer or device or open connection.

Since I'm down here in Mojave Valley AZ the daytime temps are 112 to 116°F out it been getting easy for the teansmission to reach 170 to 180F without a trailer. Now with my homebrew heat shield is take much longer to get temp and is roughly 20 to 40°F cooler now floating around 140°F after going to Bullhead City AZ and back to Needles CA and home again just at 145°F compared to yesterday at 180°F. The test run was 50 miles in today's heat and traffic.

Thats why I'm having check the two red wires. The red/white is the trigger to turn on the Quad.

As for booat limiting ill make 22 PSI of boost but it just holds at 22 PSI and thorttle remain fairly limited.

Try with the Quadzilla one level ZERO. This basically shuts down the Quadzilla and runs stock ECM. If it drives fine here that means you have a setting in your tune or possible limits settings hanging you up.

Yes. But also in the early 2nd gens they used 215/85 R16 that was stock 3500. Then the other size for 2500 is 245/75 R16 or 265/75 R16 for 2500. I've rode in @IBMobile truck with 4:10 gears and 245s tires that is a quick truck. Then with @Dynamic built transmission very impressive power. @Ironforger yup that is it. Typically used in industrial transmissions like Eaton Fuller.

Yup... need to send back to Quadzilla for testing. Red wire is direct to +12V, Red/White is hooked to the fuse in the cab. (Key ON) power only. Quadzilla will only hold power on till it cools if the option is on. Then it should drop power on the Red/White.

Torque management even myself see the same thing by the time I hit 3rd just above 25 MPH it jumps to life and typically tire let go if im too deep in the throttle even on the manual NV4500.

Look back at my post @dripley... im doing good but I'm going to build the heat shield. I'll be heading towards Layton, UT to collect my shirt from @dieselautopower.

No coolers I'm in Arizona right now and towed my RV 900 miles. Average was 160 to 180°F trans temp. I'm seeing slightly warm for empty running in town at 140 to 160°F in weather in the 110°F. I'm going to opt for the heat shield between exhaust to the trans. Lot of the grades are long and keep my EGTs near 1,000 to 1,100°F. The radiant heat starts the fluid to rise but still ok. Long grades can get to 200°F Mobil SAE 50 trans fluid doing good. Oh scaled weight of both 17,300 pounds. Biggest thing is the 245s tires reduces stress on the trans and runs cooler than 265's or larger tires which my final ratio is 3.69:1 vs 3.55. Cooler temps and towing 66 MPH it exactly 2,000 RPM.

Call Auto Computer Specialist see about having the PCM on the firewall sent in for testing. Double check by unplugging all extra modules, like factory stereo, overhead trip, central timer. Look for voltage on pin 11. Might be good to do W-T ground mod to reduce chances of AC noise damage. Then do the PCM protection fuse too (optional but suggested).

Sure thing...

No... 2.51 and 2.49 volts in reference to ground. So the pin 11 is short to ground or open circuit.

Double check it might be tight, just set up and check with a feeler gauge again.