Mopar1973Man

I'll make sure to list them separately as well. Im going to start simple with exterior and basic interior. Give me some time ill get other bulb options...

What I'm trying to find out if I produce kits of bulbs say like Exterior package of LEDs would you guys like to purchase a kits of LED bulbs for your trucks? Like for example the front switch back bulbs, rear tail light, LED backup lights, etc. I've just filed a application for becoming a vendor for LED products. I'm looking at expanding the store and adding more products. Now lets stay focused here on this thread with strictly LED lighting and I'll work with that for now. Like the external kit like... Red LED brake and turn signal bulbs Red LED cab brake bulbs White LED cargo light bulbs Front switch back bulbs -OR- front amber LED turn signal Front LED headlight bulbs (optional/maybe?)

Man, you got me thinking a bit... Injectors spray pattern poor or large droplets Valve lash possibly affect the compression of the cylinder Injection pump starting to fail Excessive drag brakes, tire pressure low, etc.

Now engine load % is up to 12% with A/C on.

Might be worth pop testing but looks good with that engine load and RPM. Valve lash?

Only reason I mention it I'm running rather border lined. 7% grade and floating 1,100*F for 20 miles does create temperatures. Difference between a 9cm2 and 12cm2 come to show better on long grade. Since the OP was mentioning towing at least 7,500 pound trailer which al very close to my 8,020 pound trailer.

What is your engine load at idle? What is your idle speed on a digital display like Quadzilla? If the idle RPM is above 800 RPM and engine load is serious low like 2 to 3% then your injectors typically are wearing out. Check for error codes or any P0216 codes. Lack of good timing will sink the MPG's.

Turbo is too small on the exhaust side 9cm2... (60/60/9) This will spool fast but create quite a bit of heat. 12cm2 housing would breathe better. Your running the same turbo as me but the exhaust housing is smaller. RV275 is basically a stock injectors of ISB motorhome edition. So any stock tune would work. The other heat issues is only a 4 speed transmission. If your running any oversize tires or lift this is another heat creator. Typically over size tire lower the final ratio and add stress to the drive train. +150 HP DAP injectors 7 x 0.010 popped at 320 bar HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 245/75 R16 tires (30.5 inch tall) makes the final ratio 3.69:1. 5 speed transmission, with the tire combo I'm in 4th gear by 25 to 30 MPH. 31 foot Jayco Eagle 8,020 pound trailer, 17,300 pounds GCW, total length 62 feet... 14.7 MPG high mark, 12.6 AVG MPG. Ran Quadzilla on kill all the way to Arizona and back to New Meadows ID no problems with EGT's. Only transmission temps.

Loose a lot of power and performance. Nothing bad will happen just the performance will drop off because timing would end up being wrong mostly retarded. Say like most p-pump guys run about 16* so your launch timing would be excessively high and make the engine struggle to launch. City cruising would be ok. Then on the highway it will most like be high EGT's because the top end would be too retarded. This is why the p-pump was dropped because of no dynamic timing like the VE or VP44 has. EPA and OBDII laws forced a change. Like my truck loves about 23* to 24* degrees at 2k RPM. Then about 14* to launch with little smoke.

The regulator is just a spring loaded piston that purges back pressure to the sump if it over like 80 PSI.

Low MPG you should be able to reach about 20 MPG. 14.2 MPG is what I getting with a 31 foot RV in tow.

Nope... I did a oil cooler gasket awhile back and never seen any screen.

Funny... I just went back to straight pipe 4 inch.

Oops on the 12V... so there is little to give there.

Exhaust brake... No dust, no wear period. Since I use a exhaust brake for 90% of all stopping my brakes don't wear at all 200k miles easy on a set of economy NAPA pads. No dust on the wheels till way down the road. Then for like myself I grab a bottle of Home Depot degreaser concentrate. Spray the wheels and wait maybe 30 to 60 seconds and hit them with the power washer and look like new again. Just did the demo on Ford 7.3L diesel two days again the owner was super happy he doesn't need to scrub wheels anymore.

As injectors wear out the pop pressure drops to very low. This makes the injector fire early. Hence the knock. The other way to test this is hook up a live data tool if engine load at idle is less than 3% its time to replace. If the engine load is 0% and idle is not resting at 800 RPM it will be higher. This is most likely where your at typically this is roughly about 260 bar (3770.98 PSI) Like my current injectors I idle about 10 to 11% yet being they were popped at 320 bar (4641.21 PSI) Minimum pop pressure is 293 bar (4249.61 PSI) according to FSM book.

Yes to both. I'm making max boost of 47 to 49 PSI. I'm running a lot of timing which gives the efficiency to the tune. My cruise timing drops out at 22% or 33% depending on Economy tune or towing. Still up at 23* to 24* of timing at 2,000 RPM's. I know stock tune can reach 20* to 21* (at below 80*F IAT temp) so its about an extra 2 to 4 degrees on top of stock range. Then you figure the 320 bar makes it roughly about 1 degree late in firing the injectors. Fun part is looks on peoples face when you leave the light with the trailer in tow and the back tires break loose under heavy throttle at about 3rd gear. Just looks like a plain Jane stock tune but it has balls...

DAP +150 HP Injectors popped at 320 bar HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) Quadzilla running... Need to update this yet...

Ok. Double checking, a lot of people like to stack thinking they will gain from both. Quadzilla wise you want to tune the timing for the lowest engine load and engine oil temperature (using optional trans temp sensor in the oil pressure port above the filter). Like myself engine oil is about 165*F and engine load is 16 to 18% at 65 MPH or 2,000 RPM. Fueling maps just add enough extra fuel to see smoke then back down... Towing tune... Like myself on my economy tune I've started a bit high but understand it might roll a bit of smoke. The timing I run is fairly steep at 24* at 2,000 RPM. But efficiency is good in the 20's for sure. Even towing to Arizona I made a high mark of 14.7 MPG with 17,300 pounds GCW of truck and trailer. 62 foot long.

Do not run the Smarty with the Quadzilla! Do not stack tuners this does not improve performance at all but tend to make things worse.

Limitation of the CANBus signal from the ECM. Nothing can be done...

Don't do ceramic pads they tend to wear the rotors fast. I use econmy pads with exhaust brake and getting 200k miles of service.

No screens. Oil cooler is just sealed with steel plate with o-rings. You thinking Ford 6.0L which has screens on the high pressure oil sensor.

I'm playing with 4.5 step and started with 14.