Mopar1973Man

That is NOT A GROUND terminal! DO NOT ground that it will blow the alternator fuse there. This is the alternator charge stud. No longer used if you did the W-T ground wire mod.

I'm working right now directly with Marco trying to set up a Affiliate Program for our customer base here. Basically I'll have a URL that will travel over to Quadzilla Power site. This URL will me earmarked for Mopar1973Man.Com where we would make a small profit for Mopar1973Man.Com. More to come soon I'm working on the code and testing stuff. 1998.5-2000 Dodge 5.9L Cummins Adrenaline 2001 Dodge 5.9L Cummins Adrenaline 2002 Dodge 5.9L Cummins Adrenaline

Go out to Harbor Freight and get the door panel tools. Now go out to Amazon and order a bag of door fasteners (plastic clips). When you are using Harbor freight tool to slide it along the bottom of the door till you hit a plastic clip saddle it in the middle and pry it out. Once the door panel is off you can work with both lock motors in cleaning and lubing them. If that doesn't help then replacement might be required. As for the bag of clips you'll need them to re-install the door panel you manage to tear up every single clip but aleast you don't damage the the door panel.

ECM should be reflashed or sent in to be inspected. Something isn't right on the ECM.

Most stereos have two power sources. Yellow is typically a constant 12V connection for memory and clock. Then the Red lead is keyed hot which triggers on the stereo.

Usually close to the ECM on 2004. Should be a plug with a plug cap on typically.

Did anyone catch Trump speech yesterday? I was watching and listen to all the laws the Democrats want to bring in. Tear down the boarder walls. Free health care for all illegals. Signed up automatically for Welfare as soon as you cross over the border. I just could believe the crap the democrats want to bring to law. Of course Trump said he was going to prevent this from happening.

Just leave the ECM and PCM disconnected. If the short still exist then the ECM and/or PCM could be damaged again. I've actually had this happen on a job and turn around in less than 30 second mail the ECM back.

You might try Dorman if you can find the part you looking for.

Best to just go to alignment shop and get 4 wheel alignment. Caster is the ability to self center. Track bar will affect thrust angle between front to rear axles being the axle are no longer lined up.

Oh just for a tidbit of info. I just pulled the rear calipers off to check my parking brake shoes and found out the passenger side pad had rotted off the backing plate. The pad material was trapped between the frame and the rotor. Off to buy a new set of rear pads for my truck today. This was caused from all the salt used on the highways and my travels for Mom's dialysis.

First off welcome to the site... As for your setup your final ratio is too low. With 35 inch tires on 3.55 gears is going to produce 3.27:1 ratio to the ground. You need to change the tires or the axle gear to fix this. You need a final ratio of 3.55 to 3.73 to 1. Optimally if you changed to 4.10 axle gears it would give you 3.71:1 ratio final to the ground with 35 inch tires. Smoke is going to be a problem till you raise the final ratio. Like myself I'm running 30 inch tires and produces a final ratio of 3.69:1 with 3.55 gears. Turbo lights nearly instantly because of proper final gear ratio. Tuning will not fix a poor final ratio. The high engine loads to launch will always be there. Being your launching with 35 inch tires is like me launch in 3rd gear.

Don't use Moog... No longer a quality product. I bought some CHEAP AC Delco ball joints and still running on them after 200k miles.

Ummm... Order it and should be 2 or 3 days depending on location...

Come gang order up your LED bulbs... @TheGreatWhite @98whitelightnin @Nekkedbob @sooxies @Ed ke6bnl @dripley @Russ Roth @Bmchmbrs @Threadzy If there is another product you would want to see post up...

Like I said be careful you might not get them back out. If it does pose a problem you need a torch and heat that loctite up to release the bolts. Get yourself a hone brush for your drill. When the ball joints are out you can use the hone brush for the holes and hone out the rust and pitting. Then you can anti-seize the holes so installing the new joints should be fairly simple then.

Be careful. I did the front caliper frame bolts in the front with loctite. Needlessly to say the loctite and being torqued in it was so hard to remove I broke 4 sockets just using a breaker bar to remove them again. I don't suggest loctite on those bolts. Torque is more than enough to hold the bolts in.

Wobbly steering is typically cause from lift kits. As you lift the axle the caster goes more neutral. This causes the steering to wander. Now you need to add more caster and then get adjustable track bar to center the thrust line again.

Even my AirDog 150 is stable. I've got idle pressure at 17 PSI cruising its maybe 16 PSI, Then WOT is about 15 PSI.

If in northern states that use salt NO! It will rot the exhaust manifold and down pipe quickly. Not really a problem. Engine is off and cooling naturally. Up here in Idaho being the summers are much cooler this year I don't hold heat very long at all. Engine oil runs between 165 to 175*F. Coolant typically falls to 188*F and then Quadzilla drops the ignition. Without the wrap it drops temperature quickly being exposed to the air. Different story for performance. Now if your trying to get all that expanding heat energy through the turbo you would wrap the manifold holding the heat into the manifold so every little bit of expanding heat can be shoved into the turbo. There is no cooling down of the gasses from the head to the turbo.

Personally... Don't do a bunch of these upgrades. Like myself I'm at 416k miles and still completely stock. Steering is tight and no issues. My tie rod ends last 350k miles, ball joints are over 200k miles now, steering box was replaced because of seal leakage (Blue Top), power steering pump is OEM yet. No wobble or looseness. The biggest problem is people doing lift kits and oversized tires now the geometry is totally screwed up. Never upgraded tie rods, Never used steering braces, Never installed any leveling kits, Never used oversized wheels and tires. Never had any steering issues.

Lost Valley Reservoir is a local lake just south of New Meadows, ID on US95. Its a short ride up a dirt road to get to the reservoir. There is USFS camp site that you can cram into and pay $15 a night for. We opted to leave on Friday morning and lucked out and found a free campsite below the dam wall and rather peaceful at night. During the day its rather busy chunk of road with people using this road to travel around the lake. Very enjoyable 2 night stay here. Once the sun goes down the traffic comes to a near stop.

Actually please contact @pepsi71ocean and update him with the company that you used and any information. He will update the page with your information you provide about ECM rebuilders.

That's being "Dripley Racist"... Don't tell me your going to go out and tear down all the Chick-Fil-A restaurants... Fun to pick on good friends...

As long as the Quadzilla is displaying 100% Engine Load or 4095 Fuel Number then its maxed out nothing more can be done. The rest of the time is based on how long does it take to spool the twins turbos your running. The boost number is what is unlocking the tune to fuel more with the wiretap. I would be looking at how much retard at the hit of WOT. This is what builds boost quickly. @Me78569 tune is starting out at 16* which is pretty tall amount at 1,500 RPM you'll have to play with the reduct settings and see if you can dip the timing down quickly build boost and pop back up on top with full advancement. This will take a bit of the time out.