Mopar1973Man

The regulator is just a spring loaded piston that purges back pressure to the sump if it over like 80 PSI.

Low MPG you should be able to reach about 20 MPG. 14.2 MPG is what I getting with a 31 foot RV in tow.

Nope... I did a oil cooler gasket awhile back and never seen any screen.

Funny... I just went back to straight pipe 4 inch.

Oops on the 12V... so there is little to give there.

Exhaust brake... No dust, no wear period. Since I use a exhaust brake for 90% of all stopping my brakes don't wear at all 200k miles easy on a set of economy NAPA pads. No dust on the wheels till way down the road. Then for like myself I grab a bottle of Home Depot degreaser concentrate. Spray the wheels and wait maybe 30 to 60 seconds and hit them with the power washer and look like new again. Just did the demo on Ford 7.3L diesel two days again the owner was super happy he doesn't need to scrub wheels anymore.

As injectors wear out the pop pressure drops to very low. This makes the injector fire early. Hence the knock. The other way to test this is hook up a live data tool if engine load at idle is less than 3% its time to replace. If the engine load is 0% and idle is not resting at 800 RPM it will be higher. This is most likely where your at typically this is roughly about 260 bar (3770.98 PSI) Like my current injectors I idle about 10 to 11% yet being they were popped at 320 bar (4641.21 PSI) Minimum pop pressure is 293 bar (4249.61 PSI) according to FSM book.

Yes to both. I'm making max boost of 47 to 49 PSI. I'm running a lot of timing which gives the efficiency to the tune. My cruise timing drops out at 22% or 33% depending on Economy tune or towing. Still up at 23* to 24* of timing at 2,000 RPM's. I know stock tune can reach 20* to 21* (at below 80*F IAT temp) so its about an extra 2 to 4 degrees on top of stock range. Then you figure the 320 bar makes it roughly about 1 degree late in firing the injectors. Fun part is looks on peoples face when you leave the light with the trailer in tow and the back tires break loose under heavy throttle at about 3rd gear. Just looks like a plain Jane stock tune but it has balls...

DAP +150 HP Injectors popped at 320 bar HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) Quadzilla running... Need to update this yet...

Ok. Double checking, a lot of people like to stack thinking they will gain from both. Quadzilla wise you want to tune the timing for the lowest engine load and engine oil temperature (using optional trans temp sensor in the oil pressure port above the filter). Like myself engine oil is about 165*F and engine load is 16 to 18% at 65 MPH or 2,000 RPM. Fueling maps just add enough extra fuel to see smoke then back down... Towing tune... Like myself on my economy tune I've started a bit high but understand it might roll a bit of smoke. The timing I run is fairly steep at 24* at 2,000 RPM. But efficiency is good in the 20's for sure. Even towing to Arizona I made a high mark of 14.7 MPG with 17,300 pounds GCW of truck and trailer. 62 foot long.

Do not run the Smarty with the Quadzilla! Do not stack tuners this does not improve performance at all but tend to make things worse.

Limitation of the CANBus signal from the ECM. Nothing can be done...

Don't do ceramic pads they tend to wear the rotors fast. I use econmy pads with exhaust brake and getting 200k miles of service.

No screens. Oil cooler is just sealed with steel plate with o-rings. You thinking Ford 6.0L which has screens on the high pressure oil sensor.

I'm playing with 4.5 step and started with 14.

Towing side should look at starting the timing on the low side, this builds your boost quick. About 4 degree step between bands. Then on load based opt for 3 degree. Builds back up power better allowing for some extra turbo spool.

minimum... 10 psi at idle 30 psi at 2,000 RPM At least my 2002 report true pressure yet. Even can see pressure through @Chris O. CCD network tool. Even checked with a mechanical gauge once awhile back. Like 68 PSI at 2k rpm.

Wow that is high... Empty truck 20 to 22% at 66 mph or 2,000 rpm. 31 foot rv at 17,300 pound gcw 33 to 35% at 66 mph or 2,000 rpm.

Adjust your pressure down you are taking a risk of blowing out the front seal on the vp44. 20 psi is the max you want to see. The return port is small in the vp44 and can't return high volumes so the next thing that happen is the front seal pops out.

Actually no standard synthetic is not slick enough and causes chattering og the clutches and bands. The friction modifier stops the chattering by making it slicker. Ask @Dynamic...

Unhooking the batteries will not reset codes or any software. To reset the software turn the key off for 10 seconds. To rest codes you need to fix the problem and reset the codes with OBDII tool.

ATF+4 is already a synthetic. What is required for the 47RE. Plus its loaded with lots of friction modifier.

Only got a 60/60/12 turbo. But still can reach 47 PSI for boost. Im already got ARP 425 studs. Stock is 54/60/12 for HX35W.

No issues, coolant ran 195 to 197, EGTs were normal 600*F at 66 MPH at 2,000 RPM. Even engine oil temp hover at 175*F. Remember my pop pressure is higher and later injection event.