Mopar1973Man

Just did another Trip to McCall which turned out about 80 miles. Still only 110*F with nearly 80*F temps out. Climbing a 7% grade at 45 MPH, and open flat running at 65 MPH. My truck was already warmed up some from a previous trip down to my other shop for a quick starter fix for my Landlord.

I aim to please the best way I can... Hook a man up!

You losing the cooling ability of the fuel. The overflow valve is closed. When fuel pressure drops below 14 PSI the overflow valve is closing by the time its getting to 10 PSI its completely closed. Good idea...

@Tkeela66 I was talking to @B-TLE on the phone and when he was asking to buy a new truck I hooked him up with you...

How much fuel is in your tank on the last photo? What is your fuel pressure while rolling under load?

Here you can post it up here... https://mopar1973man.com/classifieds/ Someone here might want to buy it too... You never know...

Confirmed my results... Thanks!

More like $5000 to $8000 for a truck out here.

I would say send them both out to ACS (Auto Computer Specialist) but that's just me. If you have warranty then I would use it. I know ACS has also a loom rebuilding division as well. So if there is a short or wiring issue they can handle both the computer and the wiring too.

I will help you out...

Standard ol' power steering fluid is all I use. Typically get at NAPA or a Walmart but I'm not sure what you got over there for parts stores.

Even Cummins Seal kit with the double lip seal.

Yup... Just takes a few minutes to set up...

Be aware of your final ratio... it will load it up more, adds more stress to the transmission, and higher EGTs. Im finding optimal ratio right around 3.42 to 3.73. So like 285s on 3.55 gears makes 3.42. Now 245s on 3.55 is 3.69. But go to 35 inch on 3.55 will be 3.21. This might be too low of a ratio number.

Still waiting to get to town. Highway is still closed for the most part. Roughly 1 to 1.5 hour wait to pass through. I just stayed home today.

Typically... What I do is set for level 2 and now build the defuel curve to cut out smoke. Then switch to level 3 now build the rest of the curve till is fairly smoke free. Then wiretap and up is wiretap and just need to tweak its setting to bring on the wire tap well after the turbo is spooled. So for you I suggest starting at about 90% fuel. Then by about 5 or 6 PSI of boost you should be at 100% and then you can build the rest of the fuel curve up.

Again because there is no boost pressure to move air. Heck all I got to do is turn on my exhaust heading down hill and I can push IAT past 140*F easy. It nothing to worry about. Again once I'm back into boost pressure the IAT falls back down. Yup like you typically high RPM exhaust brake usage will push quite a bit of hot gasses back in the manifold as the exhaust brake is running. Well a bit but again there is no air flow of the grill area other than the engine fan which typically is not fully locked. I don't count idling temperatures because the truck is not moving through the air. Typically my fuel temperature and my IAT temps chase each other. Within about 5 degrees tops.

Yeah there is nothing to it. I've wrote a tuning guide, @Me78569 wrote one too. Here is even a Excel sheet tuner for Quadzilla.

Actually no, its the lack of boost pressure. When I'm dogging along in McCall at 25 MPH my IAT rises slightly maybe 5*F tops. Once I get back to highway speed again and boost pressure is about 5 PSI my IAT temps falls again. Air Conditioning has zero impact really for my truck. Just the engine load rises 2% that's all. No change in coolant temperature, no change in IAT or Engine oil temperature.

I did but I set the time to end wrong and it was not displaying now it is... Opps... typo

Just an update for you all. I will have the LED bulbs in by Friday according to the tracking the only thing I did not order yet is 9004 or 9005 bulbs for right now.

Ok. That should work but remember if you happen to reset to stock you lose all that. So you numbers should be close then.

No fuel pressure. Fuel pressure that is above 14 PSI keeps the overflow valve open and the VP44 cooled off. Fuel pressure is the solution here typically. Still running the same old AirDog 150 with a 165 AirDog Pump head. Fuel pressure is never below 15 PSI. But idle is 17 PSI.

Those MPG are not corrected. Your odometer is not clocking miles correctly. You would have to use a GPS to track mileage. There is no way to do a percentage offset on the MPG calculation to get a corrected MPG number.