Mopar1973Man

Upload the video to youtube and post the link here. Pause jus a bit and video frame will pop up. Like this...

That is correct. The rear axles on 2500 series is only rated for 3042 tires and 6048 axle. Which these tires do meet. I typically run 60 PSI front and rear and tow with these constantly. Never had a tire fail yet, no explosive tire failures. The axle is only rated for 6084 anyways.I'm already licensed for 26,000 on my truck and towed up to 23,000 GCW pounds many times. Right out of the owners manual for weights... 3,042 x 4 = 12,168 pounds carry capacity on 245/75 R16 if inflated to 80 PSI all the way around, At 60 PSI each tires can carry 2,147 pounds x 4 = 8,588 pounds. Wow look at that just close to what the truck is rated for 8,800 pounds. Last trip to Mohave Valley Arizona ran 60 PSI all the way around and towed a 31 foot RV for 17,300 scaled. Truck weight was right at 8,700 pounds. Hence why I know the numbers so well. If you looking there is Load Range G's in a 235/85 R16 which I've ran too. They have a max inflate of 110 PSI at 3,750 capacity. I've ran those before no real help on towing capacity being the rest of the suspension cannot handle the weight. I opted back to the 245's on a Load Range E's.

No. Even my truck does it with 7 x 0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar with a Quadzilla there is no way to tune it out. My truck requires a special way o drive it. If you just dump the clutch it will typically stall out. Coming to a stop it will lope till it stops completely. Then it idles a perfect 800 RPM. The problem is just like @Me78569 the Stock ECM is attempting to manage like its stock injectors. Even the Quadzilla hands back off to the ECM at near idle, so hence there is no way to tune it out.

Little secret. Don't lift, no leveling kits and leave it stock. You can get way more out of a front end with out needing DOR parts. I'm stock and clearing 200k miles on ball joints, 100 to 150k miles on track bars, 200k miles on brakes, steering box 350k miles, tie rod ends 350k miles. Leave it stock and parts last MUCH longer. Still stock at 417k miles never needed steering brace or any upgraded parts. No even the upgraded tie rods. Drop away from stock size tires 265's and look towards either 235/85 R16 or 245/75 R16 both these tires sizes I've used on my truck. The 245's are my favorite being it makes a 3.55 geared axle a 3.69 final to the ground increasing my pulling torque, reduced towing EGT's and improved towing MPG to a high of 14.7 MPG with 17,300 pounds GCW. Cruising speed at 66 MPH is a perfect 2,000 RPM's. If you wanting oversized tire change the axle gears to 4.10 start with. Then your final ratio will be correct with 35 inch tires. Still over sized tires will shorten the suspension life. Gauges I tend to suggest ISSPro EV2 being that they are USB programmable and you can set the warming light on the gauges. I'm running EGT (0-1600°F), Boost (0 to 60 PSI), Fuel pressure (0 to 30 PSI), then transmission temperature (100 to 320°F). Even on a manual I suggest this. Fuel system discussion have started a bit here with people getting fuel temps as high as 150 to 160°F. I suggest the AirDog 150 or 165 pumps with 1/2" lines DO NOT use 3/8" fuel lines they are too small and cannot wash the heat from the VP44 like 1/2" lines can. You would try to fight a house fire with a garden hose would you? Tuner is a good idea for all these truck. I would suggest the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Best tuner right now for the VP44 fuel system. Full timing control, full fuel management, and host of other things it can control. .

If you have the Quadzilla tuner you can check the PSG temperature. The aluminum cover doesn't count. The PSG module has all the electronics mounted on the aluminum plate facing the fuel side. So the fuel temp is directly related to the temperature of the PSG. Like a few here that were told only need 3/8" fuel line are the very same people now reporting 150°F fuel temps and higher. I'm still with 1/2" lines and AirDog 150 that is keeping fuel temps way down like 120 to 130°F typically. Huge difference in protecting the VP44 from heat when you have a constant fuel pressure of 15 PSI (WOT) to 17 PSI (Idle). I'm able to keep the overflow open and keep flushing cool fuel through the PSG area. Yes typically my IAT temp and Fuel Temp will match as seen below. When I shut down my fuel temp does not rise only cools off from that point. There is no heat soak from the block that raises fuel temp. This below was 3 hours of driving in 103 to 105°F temp day and in city traffic and highway both. NOTE: Engine oil temp is the trans temp.

Just checked for new injectors from DAP is roughly $3,000.000 starting point or about $500.00 per injector. Injectors typically last about 100k to 150k miles. Don't assume just because it starts and runs well that they are not worn out. It only take 1 or 2 bad injectors to wipe out cylinders. My last one was 112k miles on the clock and owner attempted to drive from Homedale, ID to New Meadows, ID by the time her got back home the 5 and 6 cylinder rings where washed out no compression. Injectors stuck open, washed the rings out. It did not grow oil at all. It did not create any excessive black smoke either.

Even DAP is $500 per injector new times 6 that is $3,000.00.

You know why I'm holding on to my 2nd Gen.

Just for info... Just drove 3 hours to Boise. It is 103°F out and my IAT and Fuel Temp match. The whole way here.

Yes. That is roughly what new injectors cost. Remains are cheaper but like span might not be as good.

Same... Bore can't rust if it made from aluminum. As long as there is no moisture there is on oxidation. I don't have a cast master cylinder. Just like the current clutch cylinders are aluminum as well.

It is when people don't have gauges and trying to use strictly the Quadzilla for gauges. I al ways highly suggest gauges vs. Rely on digital tuner. Even Edge has this same problem. I more or less just use Quadzilla boost reading for diagnostic more so. Use boost gauge is more accurate and Quadzilla will at least tell you if the sensor is working. Thats it. Accuracy just isn't there.

Again hook up a live data tool and check your rail pressure. Then you might look up how to test return volume. Might even check the fuel pressure to the CP3. If it running weak it might be starving the CP3 on the top end.

No idea... All I know I've never seen one Quadzilla yet with accurate boost numbers. I love looking at my logs and seeing Quadzilla reporting some crazy super high boost number. Right now I'm pretty sure my wastegate is blowing open easy. I top out at 35 PSI of boost (ISSPro EV2) and sure enough the Quadzilla will report like 45 to 50 PSI. Previously I was getting 47 to 49 and it would report 67 to 69 PSI of boost in the logs. The only time mine is close to right is below 25 PSI.

Then try for 17 PSI spring. I thought factory FASS or AirDog spring is 14 PSI...

Just like @Taz truck sitting in my yard he's got a couple of bad injectors. It starts and runs slightly off beat idle. No real smoke difference and no growing oil. He's parked he waiting to get the money together for injectors. The last truck that blew up was a 2005 Dodge and it washed the rings out but didn't grow any oil at all. Required rebuilding. Then the last truck I sold was a 2010 Ram 6.7L owner didn't want the injector replacement issue he also had the grid heater light on. The new owner has the issue which I notified them as well.

No no change in smoke or anything you might detect a slightly long cranking time. Most injectors fail without warning without any smoke change.

Just remember at 100k to 150k miles the injectors should be consider for replacement. Not cheap either I see a lot of people ditching the truck right around this point because they don't want the injector replacement cost or just not know and performance is dropping and just ditch the problem so the new owner can deal with it.

Bingo... All the exactly correct answers. All pros. Then con's only con I found is don't be dumb and come down a slick slope with only 2nd drive it will lock the rear tires and start it sliding uncontrolled. Pros.... You can combo with my high idle kit and apply the exhaust brake for super fast warm up. Do take note doing this adds more carbon ot the oil But it possible to warm up from -20*F to full 170*F coolant in under 10 minutes. If you want real rumble like a big truck...

Injectors are wasted... Time to replace them. Common rail injectors are only good for 100k to 150k most. Replace them all. Yup I know that a roughly $4,000 for just the injectors. Make sure to buy only new injectors if you want long life. Like on my 24V truck when the injectors wear out the idle starts to lope because the spray is wrong, and pop pressure are too low. Mine will lope as well on bad injectors. Even I find that 24V injectors are wore out about 100 to 150k also. Same problems can happen on CR engine too. The bad part is continue running on bad injectors could do damage to the engine. Last one I dealt with burned up cylinder 5 and 6. Lost all the compression and fuel washed the rings out. Needed to be sleeved.

Hook up a live data tool and watch the rail pressure. Also how many miles on the current injectors?

Personally I would just drop to a smaller tires like I did but 99.999% won't. They will continue to fight to keep there lift and 35 or 37 tires. I've got no solutions or idea because I have zero experience building lift trucks other that what it causes and having to take it all apart and replace everything back to stock for customers. Once back to stock height and stock tires the problem goes away. Hence just like I learned on my 1972 Dodge that a ruined the front axle to the point I bought out all the available parts locally and was now have to resort to axle replacement. I sold the truck for a mere 1,000 and bought my new Cummins. I made a promise I would never lift or run oversized tires. Since I never did I never had all the issue your have. Again most customer end up buying someone else's nightmare like I got a meet and greet in Ontario, OR today to fix a lifted truck and explain this again so he can replace all the lift junk with stock parts and drop tires sizes. I will not even attempt to fix a lift truck to keep the lift. It ends poor typically with the owner selling the truck because its undriveable. Just like I sold my 72 Dodge... I couldn't fix it...

That's about it the closer the exhaust brake valve is to the engine the better the performance. It just that the engine has to fill more pipe area with pressure before hold back occurs. Just that the valve is a distance from the manifold and there is added volume space hence the delay but the hold back should be the same being it will hold up to 60 PSI of drive pressure from the engine.

Shouldn't be any valve on the return line. Truthfully should be no valves at all in the fuel supply system.

Slightly slow to engage being the pipe has to fill with pressure.