Mopar1973Man

Mine is nearly zero'ed out I just got to fix my wire tap I just found out last night I can only make 35 PSI of boost with full wiretap which tells me to test the voltage on the tap. The next thing would be call the insurance company and have the body work repaired after my truck rolled off into a 4th gen back in Feb. It been a cluster mess with the title issue being Mom and Dad's name were on it. I managed to file for a new title while the COVID-19 lock down started. I got my new title already and now just need the time where I can give up my truck for the body work. I'm going to go forward with a complete paint job too. This is a low priority right now being I need the truck for work mostly.

Exhaust manifold isn't going to change it much. The only thing that really is affecting exhaust flow is the turbine housing and how bir or small the housing is. That is the turbo cooldown timer. Showing its active. Just drill a second port in. I stacked the EGT's on the 4, 5, 6 runner.

Yes. I was just under a customer's truck doing headlight replacement and had to pull the bumper slight to get the headlights out and the new ones in. I used a floor jack to the center of the bumper to pick up the weight of the winch bumper and got the fender and light gap fixed again. Looks good. There is a good inch worth of swing up and down you can play with. If you need to snug the bolts and use jack to do the lifting motion without it falling or shifting on you. Then you can remove the jack and tight everything without the jack in the way.

Yup... Final ratio is too low. Take a peek at what I've got with 30" tires and 3.55 axle gears. Much lower EGT's. Lower Engine loads (using way less fuel). Even though I'm twisting 2,500 RPMs. I'll have to find it but I posted several runs on the I84 running 80-82 MPH and getting 20 MPG almost to 21 MPG.

Tried many times with no answer or response... (Gave up)

Man its been a weird month. Fuel gauge drops to empty comes back for a few days and quits for good. Find out the float wore out enough to slide all the way up the arm and let the arm sink to the bottom. Then had a ticking front on the passenger side come to find out passenger side wheel joint failed and the proceeded to break a clip and push the cap out will pull bushes out. About a month ago my cruise COAST button failed. I found a used switch on Maccari for $15 bucks, and installed it. Then last night figure I would play a bit on my performance tune and found out my wire tap isn't working (boost capped to 33 to 35 PSI). Most likely the tap screw loosen up a bit broke connection at the VP44. So what I've got fixed... Fuel gauge sender replaced Passenger front wheel joint Rear brake pads replaced (on pad rusted and separated)

Hence why I run the AirDog and the stock filter system. The AirDog 150 on my truck catches most of the water. What little makes to the stock filter maybe a drop or two... 3um filter on the AirDog and 7um in the stock filter can.

ABSOLUTELY NOT REQUIRED! As for the bad battery even with the extra ground it will not change that fact. The block is a bigger gauge cable that the bridge cable you want to install. Then the other fact all battery system only use 1 battery temp sensor PERIOD this is the same for all vehicles with dual batteries. Adding a extra ground between battery will not change that fact. Again the block is a bigger gauge cable that any bridge cable you can install. Even my house power system has only 1 battery temp sensor with EIGHT batteries any of the other 7 batteries could go bad and start cooking with heat and the sensor will not see it. Even though I've got 2/0 cables between all EIGHT batteries still will not stop this fact. Adding a 2/0 bridge cable for just a mere 3mV drop is absolutely NOT REQUIRED. The battery temp sensor is the yellow lead its attached to the battery facing toward the bottom of the picture. Simple fact is measure the voltage drop between batteries if there is more than 0.2 drop between your ground cables are failing. Adding a ground will NOT FIX THIS. You need to replace the exist ground not mask it with a another cable between batteries. Same problem with people adding grounds try to mask the AC noise problems DO NOT DO IT. So now I went out fired up the truck and measured the voltage drop as the grid heater were running I measured exactly 3mV drop from either batter to the block. Failing point is 0.200 VOLTS or higher this was 0.003 volts or 3mV DC Drop between battery to the block. The fun part is these are 18 year old stock battery cables and still near perfect condition with only losing 3mV drop to the block.

Yes you could... That will test to see if it actually is opening. What @Me78569 is looking at is it possibly that the spring is weak and the wastegate is blowing open dumping your driver pressure. A weak wastegate would be easy to blow open with enough pressure force on the gate. There is a forum post where people ditched the wastegate motor and used spring to hold tension on the gate so once it gets up to a set pressure just the drive pressure can force it open. What @Me78569 wants is for you to tied the gate shut and see if you can build more boost ot clear up smoke and EGT's.

Good deal on the gear change! If your up this way your more than welcome to stop in and chat too. https://mopar1973man.com/contact/

Just a heads up the last one that I followed on changing gear up here in McCall ID was close to $4,000 for front and rear gears to be changed to 4.10.

My Economy tune is based on a 3.55 gears on 30 inch tires which produces a final ratio to the ground of 3.69:1. Now over sized tires on 3.55 gears are going to shove that final ratio lower in number making it difficult to accelerate without smoke, my tunes can have high timing because of the 7 x 0.010 injectors are popped at 320 bar and the injectors are firing late, so advancement makes up for it. Then the final ratio being a high ratio number I don't need a lot of retarding to launch out so I can keep more advanced timing. I've got to ask what size tires are you running @ahlgringo ? You might take my economy tune and walk the timing back -1 degree across the board for larger tires and lower ratio. Optimally for these trucks you should be 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground after the tires. Just in my setup I'm in 4th by 25 MPH and in 5th by 45 MPH. 66 MPH is prefect 2,000 RPM and does great on two lane highways. Quick to build power and for passing. Already in the torque curve! 82 MPH is a perfect 2,500 RPM even twisting the engine this fast I still reach 20 to 21 MPG on the interstates. My tow tune got me down to Mohave Valley, AZ with a high mark of 14.7 MPG. Then over all average of 12.6 MPG towing a 31 foot RV scaled out at 17.300 GCW.

Even myself if I could I would jump for the that 62/68/12 for an upgrade. Funds are just tight for everyone with the COVID-19 crap going on.

Again 5.9L Cummins 6BT from 1989 (160 HP 12 Valve) vs. 5.9L 6BT from 1998 (215 HP 12 Valve) Better technology, better power production. Like I said I know I'm not a great setup with HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) but its bit better air flow vs the stock HX35W turbo (54/60/12) Does well in altitude been to 9,000 feet (empty truck) or 7,300 feet (towing trailers) no issues with EGT's so far.

Differential fluid (open or limited slip) should be changed every 30k miles or once every 3 years.

Building tunes is a no big deal. If anyone want a hand at building tunes I'm more than willing to help out. As of OP's original question. The thing is when you start tuning and setting up timing you'll find that as you get the timing set up correctly the engine load will go down. I know stock ECM vs. any of my tunes might be about 2 to 5% lower engine loads on the Quadzilla vs. Stock ECM. This is because the stock ECM tune is retarded so more the flame front is turn into boost. When you advance timing more the flame is doing more piston work and less turbo work. Typically a good tune will roll on next to nothing for boost.

There is different things that affect timing amounts. Pop pressure the injectors are built too. High pop pressure makes them late (need more advance). Final gear and tire size, Large tires like more retard. Manual or Automatic (manuals like a bit more retard to launch). Cetane of the fuel. High cetane needs more retard since the fuel lights easy. Low cetane could use more timing because of its slow ignition quality. Best way I found is play with the timing on a flat quiet road. Then keep trying different values to the engine load goes down. Basically if oyu have a flat road and set the cruise for 65 MPH. if the current timing was 22% engine load and you advance timing a degree more and your next test at 65 MPH on your flat road nets you 20% engine load try advancing again if it goes down again keep going till the engine load rises. This rise will be negative torque in other words you firing so early that the piston is being forced down while traveling up yet. Then back off a few degrees and now you should be about right. Like my "economy tune" lands me right about 23* at 2,000 RPM at 66 MPH, 245's tires gives me a final ratio of 3.69:1. Being my tires are small and the final ratio is lower I can start up with more timing in the bottom end and do a spread of +4.5* between bands. 15, 19.5, 24, 28.5. Then have +4* for cruise timing. Even with my injectors at 320 bar this works out great. Engine oil temp float 160 to 170*F typically. EGT's are lower. MPG is up. This tune with high timing builds little boost till in the upper end. Not designed for racing... Switch tunes to my performance tune. I dropped to 14, 18.5, 23.0, 27.5... This gives me a bit better edge getting launched in a hurry from light to light. Fuel table is a bit fatter across the mid to upper end. With a bit less timing I'm now building more boost get launched.

That is huge...

Matter of fact I just talked to a gent this morning about his 03 Dodge and his 04 Dodge with the same intake horn. Those are choked compared to the 2nd Gen that flow thru fine. I must be OK being I'm only a 500 HP truck right?

Problem is the Edge Juice is only going to set up for stock injectors timing wise. If you injectors are any larger than stock this is where the problem starts to grow. I was Edge Comp user for over 10 years. As injectors get bigger the timing needs to advance more. EGT's will get out of hand and smoke included. Since switch to Quadzilla EGT's are no longer an issue even with 500 HP roughly because of adjustable timing. I run wide open on the Quad on towing tune and it really hard at 17,300 pounds on a 7% grade to even get close to 1,200*F with (7 x 0.010) injectors 150 HP cruise set for 65 MPH. My turbo might be a bit bigger on the compressor (60mm vs. 54mm) but the rest is exactly the same as a stock HX35W. Just be aware of this limitation...

McCall ID is a tourist trap town. The local mayor made a mask required city inside or outside. Most of use refuse to wear a mask outside. (Me included). Now as for Riggins, ID there suppose to be 1 case down here but never found out who. No one wears a mask down here. They do the right things with social distancing. Like myself I slept with the window open and its 53*F this morning so my nose is running and dripping this morning. Eileen thinks I've a got a few mild allergies (yeah I'm allergic to getting up and working - Right?) Seriously I do have a bit of issues but neither of us have the COVID-19 virus. She been tested not to long ago and still clean. Now up here is rather relaxed about the the whole Corona problem. Now @Wet Vette is in Mohave Valley, Arizona again. Her daughter want to break free for her own vacation. Arizona is one of the hot bed places between the air temperature being over 128*F in the last photo I seen and the most cases of COVID-19 coming out of Kingman, AZ. Little concerned about her being down there alone. She is a MA (Medical Assistant) so she understands masking up and all that. Now I've got to mention this WILL NOT NAME member called me 2 nights ago. He's was visibly upset, depressed and ready to quit. I talked to this member on the phone for at least 30 minutes. He's feeling the effects of the COVID-19 on his business. He's bills piling up to eyes and it getting worse. I told him you need to disconnect for you job for a short time and head home to your family. Now spend some time just letting it go for a day and then another day talking over the his issues with his family. Get some feedback on how to handle this issue he's in. Now in this realm I'm just as freak out as him because no one can see the end time of the COVID-19 lock down and restrictions. Between the rock slide blocking US95, detour time (2 hours for a 15 mile round trip) and thinning economy out here. It's rather spooky. I'm even very cautious about even spending the $1,328 to buy a VP44 for a local to repair their truck. The local economy is based on rafting right now and it nearly impossible to social distance on a raft or in a small drift boat. What we missed for income periods... Jet boat races, Riggins Rodeo, Salmon fishing (closed low count), now rafting is hurting... Even I'm managing to grab few job here and there but not like last year. When I met Eileen I did a picture of my weekly pay there was a ton a of cash laid out on the desk. Now I struggle to make just a quarter of that pile. The only thing different is I don't have the overhead of Mom and long distance travel and truck repairs. But I'm still paying bills on Mom's medical which I think I came to the end of... Yeah it depleted a bunch of my saving trying to hold it together and keep my cancer bill paid. It no day at the park for anyone... So all I can say is be smart about what you do and be careful out there.

Most likely a VP44 failure with the P0251 and P0252.

We would have to call it the JAG1 strain of COVID-19. No mask required.

Just remember you can throw matches at diesel fuel all day long and never get it to light off. Diesel fuel need to be heated above flash point to created vapor. Typically around 150 to 160*F.

Then the 10 to 12 earthquakes didn't help either. Mostly based out of Stanley ID area. Ranging 3.0 to 4.0 magnitude. Then is slid out and crushed that steel container like a plastic toy.