Mopar1973Man

Cummins is just as bad I paid $132 dollars for mine. One of my reason for not buying Cummins parts. Then top it of for 6 connector tubes I was quote a crazy high price like $67 a connector tube. There is way cheaper solutions for even the pigtail. I could get the plug numbers on Mouser and then order a 2001 MAP plug and just cut off the old 2002 plug and wire in a 2001 plug and its a permanent solution. Being the 2002 MAP sensor and plugs are no longer produce why keep mess around with old pigtails... Wire it once and never look back.

Amazon way better you can just about pick the day you want it.

No that not what is for again...The fuse or circuit breaker is not for overcharging alternator. It to stop the circuit flow if thew alternator shorts out.

Dorman's Engine Air Intake Heater Relays for '94-'02 Dodge Cummins trucks effectively controls the intake heater. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Solutions-904-308-Intake-Heater/dp/B00Z7O4M4Y/ (Cheaper yet!) $49.95

Not good if the diodes happen to short to ground for what ever reason. (Poof! up in smoke). Why I still got that 150A circuit breaker.

The stock OEM lasted 180k miles. Back then I was still running 265's. Since then I dropped to 235's tires and now later on yet switch to 245's tires. Never ran large tires since then. Ditch the aluminum wheel for stock steel wheels that are 16 x 7 wheels slightly smaller, the aluminum mags were 16 x 8.

When I'm doing a oil change typically... I will park the truck in the shop and pop the drain on the pan. Then I move on to lubing the steering and suspension linkage. I will jack each side up and pry a bit to see if there is excessive play in anything. Tie rods, track bar, ball joints etc. If anything is wore or looks to be getting loose then I just replace it. My problem is everything on my truck last a long time. Ball joints are going past 200k miles now (cheap RockAuto). Track bars yeah don't last nearly as long but still good life span. Little trick for future info... Sharing my shop tricks. After my little ball joint explosion. I realize that you don't have to press the old joint out in one piece. You can cut the cap end off with a saw, grinder (cutoff wheel), or a torch. Then push the ball stud out. Then using a hacksaw do a relief cut in the cup body strike the cup on each side and it falls out. Then you can take a hone brush and hone the hole out just a little to remove the rust and junk. Now lube it up with plenty of anti-seize and press the new one back in. Much easier way. Half the time as usual. Just like next wheel joints (u-joints in the axle) I will just take a torch and cut the cross out and let it fall out and then drive the bearing cups inward till they fall out. Then using a hone brush again and clean up the holes a little bit and press in new u-joints. I learned this with the 3rd gens and there crappy way of using plastic to hold the bearing caps in place. Just another way to do the same job.

Yup... just updated the alternator part listing.

Sound like something wrong in the hydroboost to go both ways. Like the spool value is stuck why the brakes are lock. I'll keep my hydrobooster and just rebuild it. Already done one. Not bad but be aware of the input rod seal you might need to cut and weld the rod.

I see it being great for leveled trucks but I don't see it lasting any longer than solid track bar.

Not all... just this piece was a Federal Mogul. Ive seen some that is Moog too, like the upgrade tie rods.

Apps sensor will always throw a code if out of range. But a bad apps won't make it buck. But excessive timing in the 1500 range and light throttle will.

Beautiful thing about Linux... PDF documents are automatically displayed no software required. Doing you a favor I downloaded it and then uploaded to this message for ya. 686356pdf.pdf

Replace the entire track bar about every 100k to 150k so. Why bother with changing the bushing just replace the entire track bar. By 100 to 150k miles I just replace it take only like 15 mintues. Just checked NAPA there is a option for $104... Then the premium I would guess is $209... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCG2724229

Try backing down your timing. Try starting out at 13 degrees in the 1,500 RPM band.

Weight is weight... Doesn't matter put it on the scale and weigh it out. Weigh is on everything ground, tires, suspension, frame etc.

Absolutely correct... 60 PSI all the way around will hold... using stock tire information (265's, 245's or 235's) 60 PSI / 80 PSI (max) = 0.75 x 3042 (capacity) = 2,281 pounds x 4 tires = 9,126 pounds. <- If all 4 tires inflated to 60 PSI. 55 PSI / 80 PSI (max) 0.6875 x 3042 (capacity) = 2,091 pounds x 4 tires = 8,364 pounds <- If all 4 tires inflated to 55 PSI. 50 PSI / 80 PSI (max) 0.625 x 3042 (capacity) = 1,901 pounds x 4 tires = 7,605 pounds <- If all 4 tires inflated to 50 PSI. Remember 2500 series has a max vehicle capacity of 8,800#

Injectors are getting weak but still rather good being your above 0% engine load yet. Like mine are even starting to slip a bit too. Nothing last forever, especially injectors. All the truck I've seen so far have 0% engine load and the idle speed is above 800 RPM. Those are wiped out. All the 3rd gen other I've looked at require ether or starting fluid to start or difficult to start and no smoke. Yup injectors are fired. Difference is 03 and up just better have close to $4,000 in your pocket. As for 24V somewhere around $300 to 400 to replace.

Spamming link is not welcomed... My personally suggestion is go with the truck with least amount of miles or the owner can prove he's changed the injectors before the sale of the truck or he's willing to drop price so you can replace injectors.

Why I went with a full AirDog. Prefilter before the pump. Then a 3um after the pump. Majority of the fuel returned to the tank at the AirDog so this mean I'm polishing my fuel before even the stock filter gets it. There is a 7um filter in there. No screens in my fuel tank just draw straw. My first screen is on the AirDog...

You links have been removed spamming isn't welcomed here.

@JAG1 you need to go out and weight the truck again with the camper in the bed. Get front axle, full weight and rear axle weight. This way everyone can figure against your current weight. With even my RV I know I'm right at the 8,800# on the truck. If I dug around a bit I can find that photo of me on the scales and axles weights even for the trailer.

423k miles and NEVER experienced any death wobble. I've witness several trucks doing it but never had my own truck do it ever!

Not a problem...