Mopar1973Man

Should of kept the stock filter. There is 3 reasons... 1. Fuel heater works in the winter time. The stock filter housing pull engine heat to warm fuel without out it gell up is possible. 2. The water in fuel light works too. AirDog 150 with stock filter down to -40*F no anti-gel and no supplement heat needed. Never gelled once yet. 3. Then my stock filter catches the stuff that the 3um AirDog missed. Stock on the left (7um) and the (3um) AirDog on the right.

Valvoline MTF is what I want to use next but can't my transmission re builder suggest against his because is not a synthetic.

Little secret is look for the top 10 of the stereo type you want. Then filter out the double DIN stereos and then look at the single DINs left. I just did a search for top 10 Bluetooth stereos. After weeding out the others you left with small amount left. Also I was waiting for a pizza yesterday and the rock slide construction too. I figured out how to dial phone numbers. I can pan through my contact list, resent calls, or even manual dial using the radio knob. Then I've not had a good chance of trying the radio yet. Seems there is other digital stuff not sure. Bluetooth functions of the Kenwood tend to kick Quadzilla offline and cause a reconnect. Sometimes the radio drops the bluetooth and the cellphone is playing. Then touch the phone button and typically the radio rehooks up and start playing on the stereo and iQuad rehooks again. I'm going to work on the debugging and settings...

Typically that is my method of sleep now. Years ago I use to struggle to sleep. You'll find old post of me posting up at 2am, 3am or even 4am. Then I go back to my bedroom watch movies till I dropped dead which was typically 1 to 2 hours before the alarm. Ugh... Since Dec 2018, I've been smoking cannabis. (Coming up on 2 years) Typically my biggest dose is at night. Typically I don't touch any cannabis in the morning on working days or travel day. I play the day straight shooter. Like today I'm doing remodel our cellar today on the house. Yesterday we worked our off. Last night I proceeded to pound on the vape pen "Sour Diesel" one of my favorite for the day (Sativa) then @Wet Vette reminded me of the "Pineapple Express" (Indica) swapped carts on the battery. Then since we do have flower we grabded a few bowls of "White Widow" (Indica). I slept into 9:30am this morning. Energy level is good but body soreness is still there. Swap back to the "Sour Diesel" and that has reduced the soreness from about a 4-5 down to 2-3 maybe. Indica is in the couch. Sativa is head high. Much mellower and does not impair your body like Indica will. Sour Diesel tends to be also @Wet Vette favor it helps with her pain levels and keeps her motivated being its is a sativa. I've gotten rather fussy about my cannabis products. I typically look for the Sour Diesel or Blue Dream two very nice breeds of flower. Low spice in flavor, not a choking smoke either. Very smooth. "Kush" anything is always good too. There is a few terpenes I personally don't like. There is earthy toned and shroomy toned cannabis not a good flavor to it. Like a past memory of "Garlic, Onion, Mushroom Cookies". OMG. Nasty flavor very heavy shroomy taste like a old fungus on a tree. Smelled pleasing with strong smell of garlic and onions. I've seen others like this like Perma-Frost is along these lines where it a heavy mint flavor but spice level is high and will make a seasoned smoker choke hard.

Just remember Bosch RV275 are sold as is. No pop pressure check, no pressure matching. No flow matching.

Very difficult to do with 37 inch tires and a 6 inch lift and most likely will not happen. My first question is what gears are in the axles? If you have 3.55 gear this will make your final ratio 3.07:1 to the ground too low of ratio. If you have 4.10 gear different story this would be 3.51 ratio which is good. Good final ratio to the ground is 3.55 to 3.73 for these truck. With RV275 injectors not really pushing the stock envelope. +40 HP isn't really all that big and won't require a lot of timing but with bigger tires your going to need a good amount of retard to get it to spool with 37 inch tires. Bigger tires typically on 3.55 gear places the cruise RPM too low at road speed and causes more excessive engine load. Watch your engine load on flat ground. When you hit the best timing your engine load will drop. Like Even @Me78569 will suggest 19° to 20° for cruise timing at 2K RPM. That bring me back around to the Ratio. Which is why I gotta ask optimal I'm finding is about 2K at 66 MPH or 82 MPH at 2,500 RPM. Engine loads are super low but this is a 3.69:1 ratio to the ground. Even towing my EGT's never got out of control and was very capable of holding 65 MPH speed limit and towing 17,300 gross combined weight. Like most of us have jumped towards 100 HP to 150 HP injectors. Now bigger injectors typically can take much more timing. In the winter (sub zero) my truck likes a 23° to 24° cruise timing now with summer time is 21° to 22°. For you with a mere RV275 injector I would say stick around 19° as a starting point. 14, 17, 20, 23... (+3 steeps between bands)Then +2° for cruise timing will give you roughly 19°. Load based timing set for 3°. Just for example my own tune I'm +4.5° between bands. 15, 19.5, 24.0, 28.5. Then +1° to cruise give me ~21° cruise timing at 2k. Our truck can take quite a wide range of timings without issues it a matter of paying attention to engine load. Engine load is the amount of fuel your dumping in to keep rolling. This why you should test out on true flat ground with cruise set. Then as you adjust timing you can see if the engine load rises (going away from good timing) or lowers engine load (heading towards optimal timing). Resent screen capture cruising at 65 MPH. +150 HP Injectors (7 x 0.010) @ 320 bar Quadzilla Adrenaline (Economy Tune) HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 245/75 R16 tires (30.5 Inches) 3.69:1 ratio final. 5 Speed NV4500 3.55 Gears

Actually lifespan is what the pop tester shows. If you have Bosch OEM injector (Stock that came with my truck in 2002) now pop test 150 miles later and find the injector is under by 30 bar. Right out of the Dodge FSM... 4,250 PSI is equal to 293 bar 4,500 PSI is equal to 310 bar 4,750 PSI is equal to 327 bar. I'm set for 320 bar. Still under the spec. Once to dive under 290 or 280 the spray pattern gets rather large droplets and the efficiency is gone for the most part you can see a drop in MPG's. Even my stock injectors after 150k miles pop tested by DAP were at 260 bar after mere 150k miles. Well below the minimum pop pressure of 293 bar. Just like @pepsi71ocean he had a set of injectors after 28k miles lost 10 bar and put him at 280 bar. Started causing stalling issues. Like @Me78569 and a few other found after 330 bar it can cause hard starting in sub zero. At 320 bat I've had ZERO issue with hard starting all the way down to -40*F in New Meadows winter. MPG has been good. Then the engine load I'm low of 7 to 9% current. Still got lots of life in these injectors. Like @Ethan Shepherd when I installed a injection pump in his truck its got a 180k (some odd) miles and the injectors are wasted. The idle is 900 RPM and engine load is ZERO. The ECM can no longer defuel enough to get the idle down to 800 RPM. Like another member in Ontario, OR he's got about 150k miles on his truck and the engine load is ZERO. The idle RPM is 825 he just starting to lose the idle hold and the pop pressure has finally fallen enough to raise idle slightly. About 100k to 150k it seems to start loosing the idle control and pop pressure is below 293 bar.

I just unhook the grid heater positive lead. From April to October my grid heaters are unhooked. Then from October to April I hook them back up for the winter season. MPG fooler prevents the pre heat of the grid heater but doesn't help with post heat.

Like he said it doesn't help. But now as the ratio goes from 3.55 and lower towards 3.40 you start adding consider engine loads towing heavy trailers and could possibly add a bunch to EGT's. Also keep in mind that for every 1 pound of rotational mass you ditch is equal to pulling 8 pounds off the frame. Bigger tires are adding that rotational mass. That would get you back to 3.58 calc to the ground. Like myself I've switch to 245/75 R16 tires that is a 30 inch tire. Towing even with +150 HP Injectors and Quadzilla on KILL I can hold road speeds of 65 MPH and climb 6% and 7% grades to Arizona without tipping 1,200*F. My RV is 8,500 GVWR and 31 foot long giving me a total of 62 feet long and about 17,300 GCW. +150 HP Injectors (7 x 0.010) HX35/40 Turbo (60/60/12) Quadzilla (My towing tune) 245/75 R16 Tires 3.55 Gears (4WD and solid axles) 14.7 MPG MAX, 12.6 MPG AVG

No. Bosch injectors have shorter life span. This why I shifted to custom build and up the pop pressure to enhance the lifespan. 100k to 150k max for Bosch. Then on top none of them are flow matched and none are check for margins. Just 6 random picked injectors. At least all custom injectors are flow matched for volume and for pressure. Like mine are within 3% but pressure and flow.

Thank you for the wonderful gift and they are still holding up wonderfully!

First off I gotta ask what year, make and model of vehicle and how many miles?

I just went with the single DIN face plate and then the wiring adapter years ago. Front speakers are 6 x 9. Then the rears are 6 inch rounds.

Ok setup just don't go any bigger. You basically are more like 3.42 gears to the ground. Optimal is between 3.55 and 3.73 final to the ground. Im running 30 inch tires which is 3.69 gears to the ground. Mighty quick tire, I can take on 4th and 5th gens and still outrun them.

What sized tires are you running? What is your gear ratio?

Takes about 1 hour to do the wire mod

Boost leaks even massive will cause EGT to rise that much unless towing. I removed the wastewater hose left it open. Then pulled one bolt out the manifold. Even with all this blowing and whistling noises I drop maybe 5 to 7 PSI. EGTs only rose maybe 50 to 100°F. Still made 40 PSI.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic. As the brake ages it will collect the moisture from the air. It lowers the boiling point and adds moisture to the fluid and cause rusting and pitting of the wheel cylinders, master cylinder and calipers. As the moisture builds it will start to break down the rubber seals which is the black color your seeing. This means hoses could be thinning inside and cause one way blisters that block flow.

I change oil every 10k miles now. I'm at about 9k now on the current oil. Either NAPA 15w-40 year round or Valvoline Blue 15w-40 year round. I don't use any additives at all or synthetics. 419k miles...

If you just add +10 HP to it and went with +50HP injectors are going to more available. RV275s are in short supply because of the COVID shut down.

Do the W-T ground wire mod and the diode issue is mute. No longer having issues with diodes all has stopped.

Thank Gawd I opted for an open diff and not that limited slip. You most likely need to take care of the clutch pack.

I've considered traveling to helping other members. Just not sure how to go about this and keep it profitable. I've actually had members willing to pay plane tickets for me to come out and fix their trucks. At the time I couldn't being @MoparMom (RIP) was my biggest concern now I'm a free agent and willing to help people with their trucks.

We have the kits here too...