Mopar1973Man

Too squirrelly... Should hover 795 to 805 RPM. Target is 800 RPM. I would consider testing injectors.

No. Return to sender is HOT fuel. You do not to draw that back up. Adding more heat to the VP44. My typically fuel temp is about 110 to 120F... draw from the tank is much cooler fuel.

Not always. But yes typically there is a code.

Remove the Quadzilla test again. Like I found out it can foul the idle and other thing when my Quadzilla failed. If it still not working right then I would consider a new VP44.

Yeah try and get live data of the rail pressure and what your idle engine load is.

Videos do load... What is your engine load on al ive data tool or Quadzilla? What is your idle speed without your foot on the throttle? Any error codes?

Draw straw should nearly touch the bottom. No diagonal cuts. No excessive gap. There is only the thickness of a quarter between my straw. As I fill with fuel the diesel weighs about 6.3 to 6.7 pounds per gallon. Depending on cetane level higher cetane is lighter per gallon. So 35 times 6.7 pounds per gallon. That's 234 pound it will cause the bottom of the tank to deflect another 1/8 to 3/16 of inch. Adding gap but as the tank empties now the bottom comes up to the tip of the straw allowing me to suck all the fuel out. I can run all the way to the EMPTY mark and never died out.

Did you verify the gauge with a mechanic gauge? Hence why I made this bracket. Now I can unscrew the sender add a tee the hook up my test gauge and hang it on the door. Now I can verify mechanic test gauge against the electric to verify the sender is good. The other reason for the bracket. The remote mount of the sender are away from the fuel system a total of 5 to 6 feet of tubing. At the source point I've got a snubber and 5 to 6 feet of tubing. This allows the pulses to die out as they travel up to the sender. I've got YEARS on this fuel pressure gauge now and still working flawless. I just want to change the reaction speed of the needle to slow it down. ISSPro programming software and just plugin the programming cable.

Between the needle valve, snubber and distance I use to protect the sender (sensor). Sensor itself I would say to check with the gauge company to be sure it calibrated for your gauge.

Welcome to the family Eric... you might want to update your signature line in your profile and maybe post a few pictures of your trucks that should bring them running.

LOL... Stock tires are typically pretty weak for distance running typically. I think I only got about 25k out of the Mitchellins back in the day. I managed to get two flat instantly out firewood hauling. When you have them omunted up and all I'd like to see what you got for tires for size and pattern.

How many miles on the truck and injectors?

Lay flat out to the floor. You not going to hurt the truck. But you do need to see what full range of throttle will do if the smoke is too bad then you need to step down on CANBus fuel and might consider adding +1 to timing to aid in clean up of upper end smoke. If the limits are set up you can WOT and the Quadzilla will hold down anything outside of limits. The bottom of the screen will change yellow noting back down.

Don't suggest filling an open diff with (front) with 85w-140. You could but don't suggest that... Best off using the 80w-90. Open the cover and look. Simply to look and just see what you got. Open... Gear visiable in the middle. Limited slip... Clutch packs cover most of the carrier gears.

Correct... 3/4 to 1/8" bushing and hook up. Exactly where I'm at. Just for information... Without a quadzilla no boost fooler, just 150 HP injectors I can still build a solid 30 to 32 PSI. Fairly smoke free. No EGT's issues even WOT just above 20 PSI the power flatten out but the truck is very drivable. Be glad to get the new Quadzilla soon... Get my MPG's back... That is the only down side!

Sorry for the down time on the site. I was turning to update the software and there was configuration issue with caching and caused all kind of problems. The Software techs found the issues and got it fixed. Lots of updated functions in the software. Look around... As for 150A breaker I've still got mine and it was a china made cheapy breaker. Now I've got one truck that refuses to run a 150A breaker at all. I've got a brand new fuse for it. 150A fuse. The biggest problem the owner never told me any condition of what causes thew breaker to pop. The only way the Amp increase is because of a failed alternator that is shorting out. The alternator can only produce 136 Amps and wide open charge rate. Least with my case it is... Alternator bench tested and working as designed. Just can't figure out how it getting past 150 amp breaker?

Right now I wishing for wind. The smoke from the Cambridge, ID fire is sooo bad its blocking out the sun or any light at times. Just depends where the the main plume is and what it was burning. Air Quality up here is HAZARDOUS & DANGEROUS at time.

Not by much... Your HX35W is a 54/60/12 My HX35/40 hybrid is just changing the compressor to 60mm. that's it. I'm producing only 30 PSI. No smoke by 10 PSI. Up that closer to 200k to 250k miles. I've got 420k now. Again the biggest thing is lack of timing and the huge drop in MPG. More or less wore that box out from every day driving 900 to 1,100 miles a week for the last 4 years. I'm sending the module back for them to study what happened to it. Since I'm on the beta test team and have been for years.

Still very drivable. No EGT issues. It only topped out at 1,100*F on a grade. Smoke well it would blow a cloud but quickly clear up. The bad side was the MPG fell out like a rock without the Quadzilla. I made a trip to Boise yesterday and filled the truck in Payette, ID and the entire 240 mile trip used a half of tank of fuel. This is super low for me I'm used to 300 to 320 miles to half tank.

Error codes? Did you get a Timbo's APPS? What does a live data tool show for signal? As for grounds do the W-T Ground wire mod.

I can tell you that my trip to Boise ID yesterday sucked... Just running on the stock ECM and no boost fooler wasn't too bad. Spooled quick, it did build a good small cloud but nothing out of hand and cleaned up fast. Hit 20 PSI and from there up its a bit slower to build speed. No EGT's issues even WOT on 7% grade still below 1,200*F just standing on it. Then biggest negative, the MPG dropped hard core. Typically I see 300 to 320 miles at the half mark. Now I'm barely 240 miles at a half tank. Ugh... So I'm using @Wet Vette Hyundai to get around now. I'm just totally waiting on the box to come with the replacement... @Quadzilla Power

Still fighting to make it work right again errors popping up.

I don't suggest it. 85W-140 can be too thick for the axle and seen cases where the gear lube was so slow to fill the bearings that cause bearing failure twice for guy down in Texas with 110*F temp. We tested the thought it took over 1 hour for the oil to start dripping out the tube after being slightly lifted on one side. He was told do not pack the bearings with grease. I told him to pack the bearings on both axles so the bearings are lubed till that thick gear lube makes it to the ends. It takes time to get the gear lube up to temps and flow to the bearings... He was using a synthetic no less as well just super thick... Even after I change the gear lube I go out for drive to a big turn out by my place and do figure eights to push oil into tubes down to the bearing and re-check the level. Typically on limited slip axles you can add a bit more because of it thick natural and resistance to flow down the tubes. 140 weight is some seriously thick lube thicker than 60 weight engine oil. Where 80w-90 is more like 20w-50 engine oil thins down nicely and flows super good to the hub bearings. Limited slip requires it from the amount of heat the clutch pack produces as you drive city street and corner a bunch. The friction modifier is needed to make the lube slick enough to prevent chattering of the clutch pack. Hence why only the REAR AXLE with limit slip requires this thick lube. Open diffs should stay to the 80w-90 lube to reduce excessive drag and has better flow characteristics.

Some of us choose to live out in the national forest of the United States. It does come at a price of handling wild fires and protecting your home. I've had two wild fires within FEET of the house in the 30 years of living here. If you keep a defensible space around your home then fire danger is reduced quite a bit. Like myself I've got to clean up my space around both houses. Teepee Springs fire that burned the east side of the valley all the way to Riggins ID nearly 15 miles long.... This is not edited...

After driving back and forth to local friends place it runs fine isn't too bad for smoke does roll some coal clears up pretty quick. Without the boost fooler I falls flat on power as it passes 20 PSI then continues slowly to build all the way to 30 PSI. Still no codes at this point or any weird issues. I'll get the Quadzilla packed up and sent in the mail to Quadzilla Power for testing and repair.