Mopar1973Man

Not bled... not getting the full release of the clutch. I would pull the slave the quick and hard push the rod in, hold then slow ease the rod out not to draw the bubbles back in. Problem is the factory route of the tube has a hi spot that traps air. Hence why it best to fully remove and bleed hanging.

Central Timer and all the things its hooked up to...

My 31 foot can be handful in poor weather or high winds.

All i can say is Do Not Buy New... If you do be prepared for lots of dealer visits. My buddy in Parma spent more time in the dealer than camping. Like my Dad he bought new. There was over 20 visits to the dealer. Propane leak, roof issues, stereo and speaker problems, engine issues... Like myself I bought used and had very few issues with my Jaycp. Now owned it 10 years. Manufactured in 2000. So its 20 years old.

We wanted to do something nice for @Wet Vette younger daughter. So we told them to have a birthday party at our place and have everyone camping out here. I was playing with my phone last night and start to play with slow mo video and this was awesome video clips. No real audio you can mute it.

Quadzilla should be hooked to a PC for firmware updates. Not your mobil device. Now for tunes you need to download with you mobil device and use the import function. (Apples tend to have issues here).

Thing is there is only a hand full of battery manufactures. Brand name doesn't mean much. Being there is only 3 manufactures for batteries. It just matters for CCA. 750 Amp batteries where the stock size. Anything bigger is a bonus. Like my Walmart Batteries are now 8 years old and same manufacture as the factory batteries but instead of 750 CCA its now 810 CCA. Main cableshave less than 4mV drop.

Actually the voltage regulator really has changed a lot since 1960's. The old school steel can had the temperature compensation. Just it used the under hood temperature as a battery control. Hence why most where mount in such away to feel the radiator temp from the fan or wind pushing through. The only thing that improved was the single steel can was moved into the PCM and then added a temp sensor at the battery. This in absolutely no different that my inverter here at home with a single battery temp sensor. But I've got 8 batteries and 1,000 pounds in those 8 batteries. Just one sensor for one battery out of 7 batteries. Still the same old 2 wire field same alternators just bigger current same 12V operation. Even the wire colors are the same from the 70's. Blue for the + side and green for the variable ground. Some of the vans had green for the ground side but red for the hot side of the alternator.

Grab @pepsi71ocean and have him update his page.

Not much... Canned tuner I'm not going even suggest... If you cant adjust timing a tuner is just not going to work optimal. If your going to stay pure stock then yes I would suggest it because the canned tunes are typically build for true stock trucks. Now change injectors you need to change timing to meet the needs of the injector for efficiency. Like most canned tuners are built for stock so maybe few extra degrees of timing. Like my Edge Comp it turned into a smokey hot EGT mess with bigger injectors. Now with the 150 HP injectors now are extremely cool and good MPG. Now if I was to swap back to the Edge Comp (which I did with the 75 HP Injectors) it was a totally smoke bomb, extremely hot and worthless as a tuner. Again without a means to manage timing your kind of limited.

BEWARE... Tire conversation. That's because of the wider tires. That spreads your axles weight out over larger square inch surface. Like walking on a weak roof you throw down a sheet of plywood to spread your weight over the trusses. This making it easy for the truck to spin on grass or slick, or climbing... I will say "Wider Tires" will make the tires float on top of mud better because of the spreading of weight. But for traction narrower tires bite better for offroading. To this day I've climbed some steep hills, and did well. Another way to look at it... You go outside into the snow and steep in the deep snow you sink right in. Now throw on snow shoes you can walk on top of the snow. Just spreading the weight out so the soft ground doesn't depress... Typical axle weights...(Roughly) Front - 4,3xx to 4,5xx Rear - 2,8xx to 3,2xx Another tidbit I'm also open diff both front and rear. Rare to slip a tire with what I've played in the tire game between 215, 235, 245, and 265s. I would say the 265 were horrid for offroading tend to spin too much. As for the 235's those were awesome bites right in and held good for even dragging full size truck up the bank. 245's not a lot of experience offroad as of yet but soon. Then on my lil 96 Dodge I've got the 215's and those climb really good! Rare to even spin or get stuck. Another secret. I've shown this to several people and it works. If you trying to cross old crusty snow. Wide tires are best but even narrow tires can do it with a twist. If I back over the snow I'm dragging the most weight across the soft snow or mud. When you drive forward the weight of the Cummins will drive the front axle down and sink it. Again for soft ground (mud) the wider tires are best. Snow on the highway, narrow is best for highway traction. Again small patch of tire will push down to the asphalt easier to bite. I'm considering going up with a nicer set of wheels but I know it going to require a wider face tire like 265 to 285. But I'm going to keep my 30 inch size. Aluminum wheels... I'm about 200 feet above the road below... 4 wheel drive and climb the face. (235's)

APPS sensor if it goes out of range at all then it would instantly "Dead Pedal" then ignore the wild signal then set the P0121, P0122 or P0123 code(s). All you got to do is watch the TPS value on a Quadzilla or Live Data tool and see if you can reach full 100%. I do see the P0122 code but that is low volt value. We do have Timbos APPS here...

All good...

Just figured on showing how so if anyone reading had an idea for a club they can start one. Management is very simple and you can handle you own members.

Toss me a support ticket and I'll get after this till we get it fixed...

Well just depends on the "Chickens" we are talking about...? "Fowl Language" might get you in enough trouble you might get the boot from @JAG1. Might have to have a camp out where we roast chickens in the camp fire you never know. A Little Chicken Porn....

Not like I'll be able to go the corner computer shop and buy that one chip and solder it back in. Poor vision and shakey hands never happen. Why I got to have @Me78569 do my solder work for the high idle kits. I tried back then and made a huge mess of one switch and turned it into trash. I even gave Me78569 my solder gun I had.

Sorry to hear your still trying to get a loan.

After doing a Pirate Jack rebuild kit it not hard to rebuild a hydrobooster. Just make sure you have all the time you need and be ready for small parts to drop out too. Took me 3 hours from start to finish on the first one I did. As for caliper sticking this is because the piston are most likely too big. After time and brake usage the pistons get hot and cool so the brake fluid cakes on the piston making it grow a bit. This is what causes hung calipers. Then the pistons can be removed and cleaned. Then drop check them in the caliper. With all seal out the piston should fall to the bottom without being pushed. If not there is caked brake fluid yet on the piston. I would suggest to make sure to change brake fluid every 30k miles. This is bad fluid and needed to be changed after 30k miles. The dark color is from the brake fluid absorbing moisture and starts to oxidize the metals and seals. hence the black tint or color to the fluid. You should see nice amber color fluid nothing dark in the reservoir.

Me personally I want to get on board with the spring and turn buckle. Just this HX35/40 has the wastegate in a tough spot.

I don't think its possible. You'll have to most likely pull the entire dash. The harness connector is down on the driver side. Once this and the ground wire in the driver side kick panel you should be able to pull it out. Just remember to remove the bottom steel bracket on the dash so it lifts off the steering column. Wiring wise everything unplugs. Now once the dash is out you'll see what is holding the fuse panel better. I've never could figure that one out being I've got huge hands and really tough being up-side-down under the dash trying to get pass all the wiring.

Asus S510U Nothing is burnt or loose. I do remember the laptop being in suspend mode last that I used it but left it. Then the battery slowly drained and at the last moment I figured it came back on to shutdown completely. Didn't make it so the battery drain out as it did the voltage dropped and the current went up. Something in the power supply circuit failed. No charge light, no charge in the battery, no power to the motherboard. Two different power packs. nope. Fried... Still haven't replaced it yet. One a personal note because of my vision going south I've not been able to work with my phone very much any more just can't read the small print any longer. So I do most of my work on the desktop PC. Nice large screen and keyboard. Even though I go a Samsung S10+ phone the screen is good sized just the print at times is really tough to see.

Could of done the voltage drop test... Lot easier and no risk to the electric system with the disconnecting cables on running engine.

Just join the club you wish... Once joined you can post and so forth. After that point its the club owners controls. Anyone can create a club and run there own mini forum here. Like Travel Camping is owned by @JAG1 so he would be the Admin of that club. He would have ultimate control of who can be in the club. As you can see you can create many types of club. Even hidden clubs... No one can see. (Subscribing members) since that hidden clubs doesn't do anything for the site this is why its a subscriber option not a free member. You can even hire your own moderator or hand over the leader position to anyone you wish. Or if you have a troublesome user you can kick him out.

What year of truck? You might be still better off getting the error codes read with a tool. There is communication issues with the ECM. Does your gauges work?