Mopar1973Man

About a full quart... At least for my truck it has the large reservoir. Plus bleeding... When I do flushes I will typically blow a full quart and fill on the second quart.

Nope. Actually, I got all codes to clear without the Quad. Back to stock ECM. It runs fine and got the OBDII port working I had a loose pin again...

Got up this morning got hitched up to go get a load of firewood back in the Nezperce Forest. I managed to get heading up the dirt road climbing a fair grade. I'm like 25 miles back in the forest. It was pulling good at 25 to 30 MPH and then all of sudden lost power and fell on its face. Check engine light was set. I did the key trick to see what happened I got P1693 and P1475 (5V bus too high). I turned around and started back down hill. I noticed the throttle was not working correctly like a dead spot. If I left it to coast it would throttle on it own and knock. If a touched the throttle it would throttle normal after the dead spot. I got my phone out and fire up the iQuad app and refused connection. Think maybe the Quad has something to do with it. Ok I just pulled the main connector. I know the MAP sensor is still hooked to the Quad loom. Ok at least it would drive without bucking. (hour later) I get home with the truck weak on power because of the MAP sensor not hooked up. I grabbed my code reader and here is the new list... P0234, P0236, P0237, P0238, P0253... Now the is no communication errors No P1694 or P1698. But Now I'm having trouble getting the OBDII port to read codes at all. I tried again with Marco on the phone 3 times. No communication. We are starting to think I got bad luck and both the quadzilla and my ECM is bad. Marco was suggesting to barrow a ECM and test again see if the ECM is damaged. I'm not sure about the P0253 code which is VP44 code. So now I've got to box up my Quadzilla for testing. Pull my ECM and send it to Auto Computer Specialist for testing. Might end up buying a VP44 too... Oh swell...

Like I no longer even consider deletes anymore. I've found a few tuners that delete the software but leaves all the hardware in place. It will reduce the regen cycles amounts and the EGR is shut off. Why bother with removing all the smog stuff to get hassled later for trying to sell deleted truck. Here in Idaho you cannot trade in a deleted truck.

As far as I know he's safe... Beaver creek, OR.

I typically buy directly from Southbend Clutch. I just call Ryan at Southbend and get what I'm looking for. Like I'm trying to get a clutch for the 2006 Dodge in my shop right now.

Limited slip 85w-140 GL-5 (Synthetic) Open Diff 80w-90 GL-5 (Petroleum) Transfer Case ATF (Dextron) ATF+4 is not required! Diff Covers just use Ultra Grey RTV silicone. Like my truck is open diff front and rear. Even with a limited slip rear you would use the 85W-140 in the rear and then in the front use 80w-90 since there is no limited slip front axles.

Typically that what happens... Even Common Rail has limits anyone that tells me the injectors are still good after 100k miles is "ignorance is bliss" state of mind. Remember that nozzle is in the firestorm every cycle of the piston where its heated to the temps of the cylinders. Then the pintle opening and closing. Then the minute amount of dirt that might get through a filter and presto worn injectors. I don't care who makes the injectors that all start to wear past the 100k mark. Even my Bosch Stock injectors at 150k miles still ran great but like DAP told me they were not even close to pop pressure. My stock set at 150k was about 260 bar. Minimum by Dodge FSM standards is 293 bar. Typically popped at 310 bar. Even Common Rail injectors will degrade and lose some of it pop pressure too over time. Just means the injector fire early. The way to detect injector life... What is the engine load if it near zero or at zero percent engine load the ECM is trying to defuel deeper to attempt to reach 800 RPM. Typically the injectors will cause the idle to rise like my 150k stock injectors idle at 850 to 860 RPM at 0% engine load. I just found another owner with 0% engine load and his idle is hanging at 805 to 810 RPM. Injectors are shot.

Long time no see... Sorry for the lag some of us have been super busy. I'm getting ready for winter and been trying to get firewood in the shed and stacked up before snow flies. There is a lot of old name lurking around like another member Dan called me from Canada yesterday and wondering if I was still alive as well. Lot of old names peeking in and seeing what up.

Quadzilla Power - 801-872-5472

Time to call @Quadzilla Power

I've got people in California, Oregon, and Washington all with fire danger issues. Like in Cally there is @Wet Vette mom. She just had a nasty fire come right up to Susanville. I was about ready to bail and head there to defend her home. Just remember USFS is NOT a fire fighter. Only a fire manager... USFS manage where the fire burns but don't attempt to put it out. Then with USFS and environmentalist out there that stopped logging and allowing livestock to graze. Hence why the nasty fires we get now. Here is 2020 fire map.

All electric sender MUST NOT be install right at the VP44 it will beat the sensor to death every time. You must remote mount and plumb them. The water hammer pulses at about 600 times a second so the distance is added for that to fade out. Like yelling out side you can be heard good at a short range bit a mile and farther away it could be hard to heard some one yelling. The other sensor here in my boost pressure. The reason for this if I need to test any sensor I can place a tee in the line and hook up mechanical gauge and test the sensor for accuracy. Mine are located on the fender. There is 6 feet of 1/8" air brake line to the snubber is installed at the tap point. I'm using a sinstered metal snubber. I do have also a cut off valve for safety. This has been working now for over 10 years no issues. Same sensor and never been replaced.

Welcome to the family...

This is why I do not suggest AGM or sealed batteries. There is no way of doing this equalize charge on any AGM or sealed battery. Even my solar system does this same task with raising the battery voltage above operational voltage and continues to run till the set time expires. Basically you looking to increase a 12 volt battery to at least 15.5 volts and hold it till the charge amperage drops to near zero. This will signal the completion of the equalize charge. Oh yeah 8 years on my current batteries still ticking WalMart... I also cheat and use the solar system to do my equalize charging. I hook up battery cables to two 6 volt batteries and then hook up to the 12 volt battery. Then set the solar system for equalize and let her rip... Battery goes along for the same ride. After all that I typically check the electrolyte before make sure there is enough electrolyte to start the process and then again checking afterwards. Do not top off cells full before the charging typically the electrolyte will rise or expand during the charge process. A full, weak cell could over run be aware. Again... WARNING: Do Not Equalize any AGM or sealed batteries! EXPLOSION will occur! It will cause battery damage by venting too much moisture from the electrolyte.

Few bad apples doesn't always mean the company is bad. I've had two trip to Auto Computer Specialist. My own alternator had a short on the blue wire side and it cooked out the PCM so bad if fact I required a full replacement since the circuit board disappeared. New unit was flashed and returned to me in 7 days. My second trip was a 2012 Ram 2500 with a weird issue of going brain dead. No nothing... Sent it in and had it repaired. Returned and worked for a short while. Then found out nothing wrong with the ECM but something in the wiring was bad. CANBus issues.

Like myself I ended up with a membership used turbo the bearing were gone. Grabbed a set of bearing and rebuilt the turbo and now still using it years later.

Got a boost gauge? I'm going to ask did you install a boost elbow on the wastegate line? If not the wastegate will open at 19 PSI. Also Quadzilla only reads the MAP sensor like on my truck the Quadzilla report my max boost is 67-69 PSI but actually it only 47-49 PSI on the gauge.

The bad side to the EGR... The fact is you just recirculating exhaust back into the air mixture in the cylinder to hopefully reduce the peak flame temperature which will make the NOx less. Bad part id the amount the of exhaust used and the amount of plugging of the manifold is a big issue.Tuner do exist on turning off the EGR software to prevent the use of the EGR all together without removing all that system.

Even my 8 year old WalMart batteries went to Mohave Valley and spent nearly 3.5 weeks there. No issues with hot summer heat or starting. Just the factory sized batteries no need for buy huge over size industrial batteries. Thes have gone from freezing cold at -40*F in New Meadows winters all the way to the frying pan of Arizonia. Just simple 810 CCA. Group 27. Walmart... Only thing I do when needed is equalize charge the batteries.

Last set of Hankook ATm I ran lasted over 70k.

No. Different 5 volt circuit. IAT only controls engine timing as far as I figured out. Then I would have to ask didn't you follow the crowd and buy a "Cummins MAP sensors" being that sensor is "The highest Quality" which I know it isn't and not produced directly by Cummins either. So what code did the old sensor pop Always been the MAP is just behind the fuel filter. The IAT shuold be all the way at the very end of the intake manifold back by #6.

Never been good display from the get go. I've got to ask do you have oversized tires (bigger than 265/75 R16)? Do you have any kind of tuner on the truck? (Smarty, Quadzilla, Edge, etc)?

I've used a small bottle jack and a 2x6 and spread the frame slightly like an 1/8 inch max comes out easy.

Technically it should actually work. There is cords that convert to a normal USB A plug to USB C so people can plug in memory sticks, mice so forth. Which ive plugged in mouse to my phone and works, even plugged in a keyboard. It worked too. But I would never consider plugging in my cellphone to the Quadzilla box. Kind of fruitless to do such being the only thing that port is used for is firmware upgrades. Problem it requires Windows to run the software to do the upgrade. So plugging in cellphone wouldn't be suggested.