Mopar1973Man

Ok like NAPA so where do I buy parts at? Hmmm...? No other part stores around. No autozone, no pep boys, no o'rilley's, etc. Just NAPA. Again like the hosting company shgould I just pack up and move because they still can't get a clean IP address? We can't keep running and bad mouthing everything because of issues. If I did that I would be screwed without apart store to even get parts. But i undserstand how to get thing figured out and dealt with even NAPA. I've gone as far as being credit for lost time before because of faulty parts. But I can't just say no NAPA because there is nothing else up here. Both McCall and Council are owned by the same person so take your pick you still dealing with the same store. So shoulld I say no more blue top steering because I got a bad unit with nick in the output shaft and it leaked twice? Should I say no more ISSPro gauges because my pyrometer burned up backk in 2016? Should turn by back on AirDog 150 because it didn't hold up as long as suppose too? Crap happens... I deal with and move on in a proper manner. Being choices are limted for me I've got to keep what I got going... I do the next bestt thing and figure out why parts fail... Hence why like ball joints are now over 200k miles old. Brake pads lasted over 200k miles (economy NAPA). Hmmm... How about some of the research on HFRRand fuels... Must be doing something right to still have my truck after 423k miles still rolling... Haven't blown an engine either... Still making more power than 5th gen...

Yeah, so I had a bad batch of syncros, this batch is good. First failure - Mainshaft broke 3rd and 4th gear. Kept all carbon fiber... Second failure - Pilot bearing fell out f the flywheel (Southbend CON OFE) and ruined the input shaft, main shaft, and ate 5th gear. Ditch carbon fiber went to brass. After that second repair, I did have two sets of bad syncros. First set syncros of defective brass syncros (3rd and 4th) Second set syncros of defective carbon syncro (2nd gear) Now After getting a new set of syncro from a different supplier problem is gone. This is rare but does happen. Still running. On the current set smooth as butter shift yet. Still would use then being Abe has backed me every time there was an issue. Yeah it sucks to pull it out and send it back in. But he's always stood behind his work and always made it right again. So just because of a defective parts you would turn away... Even I (myself) make mistakes and just to show this I did a thermostat for Jacob (Eileens son) typical job. New thermostat and gasket (square cut o-ring). Installed and let him run it and notice steam one even went back out with him clean it all up and installed and again. Ran to town and lost coolant again still leaking. After a 3rd time pulling it apart I found the thermostat housing was slightly bent preventing a good seal. A couple of hits with a small hammer and fix it now sealed. So should Jacob just never get service from me again because I (myself) since I had it leak twice? Sometimes you have to have failures to find the problem that your fighting. Maybe I should ditch my hosting company for the very same reason...? Still after 3 new IP addresses you are not able to get email from the M73M.com. Bad hosting company...? Or do we just hang in there and fix the problem. Hmm? Just because a few bad experiences does mean the (pick your place) is bad company, shop, store, person, etc.

Could be the cables are corroded too. Do voltage drop test and see if either #1 or #2 leads are failing.

You should stand beside @Dynamic and watch him tear down a transmission and then build it all back up to your specs in one day. Taking great care to tweak and test everything as he is building. Way better experience. Like his extra cooling for the clutch packs. Won't find in that video. How he does the valve body mods isn't there.

Might be true but you'll find out if you have them tested at 100k to 150k they are already below 293 bar. Even my stock injectors had 150k miles on them. When I sent them to DAOP for testing failed badly at 250 to 260 bar. Yup they still run fine MPG was OK 18 to 19 MPG but the pop pressure was off for sure. Smoke was a bit more common to see but not bad. I just had another guy call me with a meltdown engine that was knocking. He attempted to run CR injectors to and now the piston is BANG BANG BANG as the engine is running. Just because it still runs good doesn't mean it a good idea to keep running on known wore out parts. I even told him the same thing... 100k to 150k get them changed. Got another just down the road from me it won't start unless a shot of ether is used. But runs fine no problems. Don't push your luck with 24V injectors they are so cheap to get and easy to do why?

Weller truck has been good to me.Always been good price between $1,500 to $1,800 for a full rebuild and any replacement parts. Weller Truck - Dallas 3113 Skyway Circle N Irving, TX 75038-3526 (972) 258-0460 Who I use... Weller Truck - Boise 8484 West Victory Rd Boise, ID 83709-4169 (208) 331-1061

Thanks for the photos those where good.

Post heat is controlled by the battery temp sensor and the IAT but more so the battery temp sensor. As for suck on check the solenoids and see if the power is still applied to the trigger while stuck on. If so the contact arced together and fused.

Hard to tell sometimes people have tires sizes in the signature but then on the other side when they don't post tire sized I tend to assume there is oversized tires possible being majority of people do run larger wheels and tires.

Yup I kind of figure there was something a miss. ABS is really fussy about being lied to with oversized tires and improper tone ring values.

Bad connection with probes or the wrong AC voltage level.

Was the engine running? Typically all diodes give off just a little bit of noise. Like even my truck floats like 9mV to 11mV AC.

Just had the fuel drain on my landlord truck start leaking and did a o-ring rebulid on his stock fuel filter. After installing 3 different size o-rings it stopped leaking. Then he turns to me and said, "In all these year I've never opened that drain why would it be leaking now?" It's fixed and drained out. Now getting his started it took a Cummins to crank over a Cummins. Yeah I had to drag him through the yard to get his started. My laundry list is growing again. Mine I need to get start on my steering without fail I need my truck ready for snow time. Lucky for now its only raining.

Local NAPA up here sells expensive MAP sensors. Should be good quality...

Bruneel Tire In McCall was my FIRST time for my truck at 350k miles after doing tie rod ends.$60 bucks and good as gold...

I've used compressed air one time and just vacuum it back off. Another weird one I had to forceifully over charge a system to get the compressor to show its leak around the body seals once it was over charge and more liquid in the system it start to slowly push out after it sat for the night.

Still no where to go... Heck go run Firebird quarter mile...

Another spot that is common for leaks but shows no signs of leak is the compressor shaft seal will leak but the pullet will sling off any oil or dye so its tough to diagnose that one too. Bad o-rings or too small of o-rings can leak too and sometimes not show dye either. If you do change o-ring make sure to have a bottle of PAG oil and lube the o-ring before snapping connections back together again. I've seen replacement parts like condensers and evaporators with the wrong sized o-rings too. Do you have enough oil in the system? Lack of oil sometimes can dry o-rings out a bit and allow them to leak the freon out without much dye because of lack of oil to push the dye around.

I'm still on the old style Y steering (OEM parts). I know there is a few on hear that have done the T style steering.

Watched the same video but the HVAC case is NOT the same. There is nothing to remove and the duct is much larger and square shaped. EDIT: Yeah I see it now I went back out and spotted the screws hidden in a weird spot so not chance I'll get number 7 done... I didn't spot it because it was getting late and dark out already and couldn't see it. Now I see it in the daylight and above and below there is a small sheet metal screws.

The overfill on NV5600 I feel is because PenzOil Syncromesh is too thin. Is so thin it does NOT meet the GL-4 rating and its not synthetic so failure is much more common.

I'm going to need to either take the solenoid off the top or pull the engine a long way over to the passenger just to gain another 2 inches to pull it completely out.

I never over fill anymore being that causes foaming of the fluid. I use the Mobil 50 SAE trans fluid being its THICKER (90 weight gear oil) and clings to the bearing and gears better. I've never had bad shift so far after going through 2 bad sets of syncros. It is a synthetic fluid and GL-4. No issues to report. The factory 75w-85 was too expensive so after talking to my transmission builder he suggest the Mobil 50 long time ago. Abe @ Weller Truck, Boise Idaho - (208) 331-1061 https://www.google.com/search?q=weller+truck+boise

No parts throwing when I did it...

Dang... I don't want to have to pull engine mounts to lift it on that side or take the heater case off the firewall. Some say there is no issue and some are puzzled how to remove that #7 injector. Myself I pulled it up and tried rotating all the way around and there is just no position you can gain enough room. The only thing I can think of is pull the the solenoid on top of the injector but kind of freaked that there is a spring or something in there under tension. Don't need parts flying around not knowing what's under the solenoid cover.