Mopar1973Man

That tag voltage number is the break point between 0.320 0.420 Idling ............................ | Throttling...................... > Now you set it so it rocking back an forth between throttling and idling. It is REQUIRED the idle voltage be BELOW the tag number at least 0.1 volt so you need to set it to 0.320 volts to get back in range again. Idling software disregards the APPS value completely and now runs a internal software of the ECM for idle control. Manual truck have the anti stall feature in the software. The Auto do not have the anti-stall. Adjusting the apps never does any good other that fouling up the idle circuit. Hence there is none of that in Timbo's APPS. You can see the zones in the rheostat. Even on the install of the Timbo they ask to measure the TPS voltage and adjust the stop screw till it rises and then back of to that point it started and the loosen the stop screw 1 more turn to drop the rheostat in the idle zone more so.

Early series came with 245's. Then everyone want big tires hence why the door stick still remains showing the 245's but upgraded to 265's. Which mine came with. On snow and ice the 265's were ice skates. The 235's I ran for year I could run foot deep snow at 60 MPH no problem. 245's kind of different problem smaller tire give more torque to the ground so it really easy to get it break loose on snow or ice but with a modified quad tune not an issue. Axles might be rated for much more everything start to degrade more. Suspension parts, handling, track bar, shocks, brakes, etc. Yes I've cross over heavy several time being I'm registered to haul up to 26,000 pound. I've done hay hauls, hauling backhoes, etc. Now more the old wood trailer 7,000 pounds and just my 8,500 pound RV. Another that was a heavy haul was Cajflynn hauling boat around the east side weighing in at 28k to 32k boats. Big! Hence what I know about heavy haul and the damages it did to his truck on a daily basis. Seem like all his photos where tiny pics and now gone.

Be easier to just replace it now being the voltage adjust does nothing but make things worse for a old APPS sensor. It based on voltage on when the ECM uses idling software to throttle software. So when you adjusted the APPS you shoved the range to far up now it dead pedal because you've gone out of range and hence to protect you from a stuck WOT the ECM just drops to idle and hold it from a period of time till it see normal signal again. Timbos APPS no electronics. I've got Timbo's APPS in stock that are fully mechanical and have no electronics. No voltage to set really.

2011 Cummins will need injectors right off if the own can prove that new injectors are already been done. That would be only way at that price. ($2,244 DAP price for Stock injectors) 2012 Ford I would do the same thing if they can prove new injectors have been installed recently then I would go for the price. ($2,800 DAP price for Stock Injectors) Both trucks are coming up on injector change time. Both are common rail and both extremely expensive. Common rail injectors have roughly 100k to 150k miles. and need to be changed. Just remember the Ford 6.7L had way more junk in the way to even reach the valve covers so even labor is more expensive. Cummins is 2 cylinders less and right there on top. Just you have to pull all the fuel rail to get the crossover tubes out properly. Adds about extra hour compared to doing 2nd Gen injectors. Also changing injectors on Cummins you should write down the fuel trim codes on the injectors and what cylinder they went into. Then have the ECM flashed with new trim codes. Yup I had to to d this for a ECM replace on a 2012 Ram. Local kid bought a 6.7L Cummins own it for about a year and fought with it the whole time. Once I came to the picture it was the injectors wore out at 182k. He cheap'ed out and only replaced the one injector. MPG was not very good. So he sold to another gal because he didn't want the big price tag for injectors. Really common people selling the truck just as the injectors are starting to fail. Hence why I held on to my old 2nd Gen. I can change out the injectors for mere $400 to $500 for a set of 6 injectors. Even the 2020 Ram is only 370 to 410 HP listed. with just 7 x 0.010 injectors, smaller tires 245's, and Quadzilla I can out pull a new 2020 Ram truck right now. 417k miles and still rolling. Heck looking at the old VP44 they are cheap compared to 6.7L injectors.

I typically aim for about 35-40 PSI lo side and about 225-250 PSI hi side.

No there is a difference Ford is a manufacture of a vehicle. But F.O.R.D. actually stands for "For Only Retarded Drivers". If you dumb enough to need muffler bearing grease I'll get out the F.O.R.D. grease and charge accordingly. You might own a Ford and be a F.O.R.D. too.

Dripley is right on. Yes you want to tight the lines FIRST. Crossover tubes will be pushed into the injectors and centered up and sealed before you lock the injector in place.

Gear number is based on the gear and tire info in the settings of the iQuad. Pan to the right one for more gauges like what ive got. You can run IAT 145°F no problem. Won't hurt it. I built my MPG fooler to set 143°F IAT Temp. Cold IAT below 80°F will cause MPG loss from the sudden jump of about 4° jump in timing. Hence why most loose MPG in the winter where I only maybe loose -1 MPG at most. Cold air is not the answer being ugnition needs heat to make fuel go from liquid to vapor to BANG!.

I've seen both. Vacuum leaks that do this and melted pistons, blown head gaskets, etc.

Pull them up again and tight the crossover tubes first. This allows the crossover tube to self center in the injector before you tighten the hold down. So now you've created a high pressure leak inside the return rail of the head. Just got to loosen everything up and upll and reseat the injectors and tight the crossovers first. Then do all the injector hold downs last.

Idaho is back and forth on the fence about cannabis use. All the states around us are legal use. California, Oregon, Washington, and Nevada. All those states are DemocRATs and Idaho is Republic state hence some the hold up.

Did you tighten the crossover tube first? If you did it was done correctly. If you did the injector hold down first you did it wrong and pinned the injector and not allow the crossover to center up the injector.

Also might want to check your oil temperature. I used the trans sensor of the Quadzilla in the oil plug on top of the oil filter housing. Hotter the oil thinner it gets. I typically see 168°F to 175°F in engine oil temp. Being your running larger tires and lower gear ratio could add more heat to the oil causing a drop in pressure too. As seen below 105°F daytime temperature. 245/75 R16 tires making final ratio to the ground 3.69:1 putting my 66 MPH at a perfect 2,000 RPM and 82 MPH at a perfect 2,500 RPM but this drops my engine load considerable, EGT's drop, oil temperature drops, etc. MPG rises. More heat created anywhere is a lost of power into heat.

No tuner can correct any idle issues. Idling lope is all the stock ECM software causing it. Even Edge and Quadzilla hand off to the ECM at idle. Lopey idle is strictly injector size and pop pressure related. You could create a lopey idle with valves that are mis-adjusted. Even my truck lopes at a coasting idle to a stop once stopped it will idle at a perfect 800 RPM. As for Dripley the RV275's are just another stock injector. They are not flow matched or pop tested for flow rate or even pop pressure. Just 6 random injectors are put in a box and shipped. I won't suggest RV275's any longer. Now step up +50 HP now you getting pop tested and flow match injectors. Then for +50HP injectors cost about $100 less than RV275's. . +40 HP Bosch RV275's $379.00 https://www.dieselautopower.com/bosch-new-injector-rv275-marine-300-40hp-0432193635 +50 HP DAP 7 x 0.008 injectors $279.00 https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-50hp-performance-injectors-7x0-008-vco-vp7x8vco-18343 +50 HP DAP 7 x 0.008 injectors $299.00 https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-50hp-performance-injectors-7x0-008-vco-vp7x8vco-17008 +50 HP DAP 7 x 0.008 injectors $325.00 https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-50hp-performance-injectors-7x0-008-vco-vp7x8vco

Yup. I'm typically hold out till evening time when all jobs are completed. Then I consume my dose of cannabis. Majority is smoked currently but I do have some RSO (Rick Simpson's Oil) for just eating. I'm still doing good bladder and everything is healed up and I'm still rolling. Now knowing what I know now. I could of saved my Step Dad (George Krivda) he died in 2004 from Pancreas Cancer. Could of been pounding the cannabis well before and could of gave him a fighting chance. Even my Mother (Rosalie Krivda) she passed away in Feb 2020. Due to kidney failure, bleed flow issues in her legs and then dementia. Now the cannabis could of slowed down the dementia if I would of caught it sooner. Then the one time she did actually smoke with me she enjoyed it. Then next night forgot what it was about. Then didn't want to smoke it again. As for my girlfriend she is a long term cannabis smoker as well. She should have pancreas cancer now but all the test come back negative so far. But the enzyme is high for the cancer trigger already. We are now gaining ground and knocking this enzyme down. Normal is 0 to 36. Hers was 116 now down to 96. The cannabis is actual preventing the cancer from starting. Just remember the Feds made it illegal back in 70's because the doctors wanted to sell more chemo and radiation so the Fed's Knew that cannabis prevents cancer hence one reason it was made a class 1 drug to prevent any testing in the future. If this status changes to any other class than the double blind studies could start. As you can see Fed's do this prevent people finding the truth. No one has ever died from cannabis. Can't overdose on cannabis. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Controlled_Substances_Act

I only carry F.O.R.D. Muffler bearing grease and charge accordingly.

3/8" fuel line is too small for pressure stability. Need to upgrade to full 1/2" plumbing to get the pressure stable. I'm set for 17 PSI at an idle only drop to 15 PSI at 3,000 RPM WOT. I can cruise 82 MPH at 2,500 RPM and still hold 17 PSI. Running 150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010) and 180 HP Quadzilla tuner. Running all JIC compression fittings and Parker Push lock fittings, never once had an air issue. I'm also curious what lift pump? (AirDog FRRP) Is there a draw straw in the tank or fuel basket? (Most likely hooked to the stock pickup in the tank) I'm running the full AirDog 150 (with the 165 Pump installed). First pump lasted 13 years 250k miles. I'm on my technical second pump. There was a another pump in there a 3rd Gen AirDog pump which failed in month and about 7k miles. Not counting. I'm full 1/2" plumbing from tank to VP44. AirDog FRRP are more or less junk being the pump is too far forward and sucking fuel too far. Needs to be closer to the fuel tank and upgraded to 150 to 165 pump. Volume stability needs 1/2" plumbing from tank to VP44. Need to ditch the banjo bolts. Another reason why the FRRP is not a good choice it has the same problem that the stock pump does. The distance from the tank and also if the pump dead heads it will cavitate. Like all the other AirDog pump have a 3 hose head back to the tank return line. This prevents this problem since the pump never dead heads. This why I will suggest the full AirDog. As for FASS I will "not" suggest being out here lot of the county boys have learned quickly. If FASS reduce there over all size it would be a better pump for sure then bring back the short bed bracket. My AD 150 is tuck in behind the transfer case and the skid plate guard the filters and the transfer case keeps the snow off the filters and pump. 1. FASS pump are known to gel faster than an AirDog. Typically the filter hanging down in the sling path of the tires and covers over the pump with snow and ice. 2. The since 99% of all install the filters hang down below the bottom of the frame they can be struck easily when off road. Since this happen too. Leaving you stuck till you buy new filters. All 1/2" plumbing. Only 2 PSI fall from idle to WOT.

I know that feeling just like paying $750 for HID's I would do it twice for any other vehicle I would own.

Not really. The only one is the overflow valve which you can test with compressed air. I've never seen a bad overflow yet.

Change your fuel filters?

Like myself I'm glad I never got a high line series 2nd gen after watching all the problems with heated seats, central timer issues, steering control issues. Like my 1996 Dodge with its broken seat motors. My 2002 was all manual and standard model so failures have been very low. I'm not convinced of the 4th gens yet after the amount of work I've done on some and fixing bad tuners, bad injectors, and other high dollar repairs.

Q1 - Mostly because the fuel pressure regulator is too high typically also some have opted for 3/8" fuel lines which adds restrictions also creates high pressure, but reduced volume. I've always suggested 1/2" from tank to injection pump. Including between the stock filter and VP44. I'm set for 17 PSI for idling pressure, WOT at 15 PSI. Q2 - Yes it will reduced both. Now if you running 1/2" line the drop should be very minimal. Running down the pavement cruise set at 65 MPH I'm 17 PSI no problem. Only time I see drop is under load (towing) or climbing grades. I do need to change fuel filters I'm now starting to see 15 to 16 PSI at at cruise state at 65 MPH about 60k miles on my filters.

No such sensor. Only thing that IAT controls is timing and grid heater function. Have you checked your valve lash or done a compression test? Have you tested your injectors for proper pop pressure? These will have effect on idling and sounds. Low pop pressure will give a bump in timing being the injector is actually opening early and spraying larger droplets of fuel taking more time to heat to go bang, typically smokey. Also causes a off beat kind of skip or miss when the injectors are below 280 bar. Bottom limit is 293 bar according to Dodge FSM book. 310 bar is stock pressure of roughly 4,500 PSI. Valve lash could impact idle performance. You need 2 thing to keep it going compression and fine sprayed fuel mist. One or the other degrades then the idle performance degrades.

I just sent mine back to DAP and asked to change the stock nozzles for the 7 x 0.010 and then asked to have them popped at 320 bar. You can request to have the old nozzles sent back too. Which I've still got my wore out OE stock nozzles on the shelf.

Check you valve lash that may help. Mine is lopey too but not quite that bad. I did a set of 7 x 0.010 SAC nozzles that had that kind of lopey idle. Then when I switch back to VCO that help minimize the lope a bit.