Mopar1973Man

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Nice one @Russ Roth !!! @dripley needs to buy one!

Just what I did to the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. I bought a brand set of clear headlight housings. Then went out and picked up a set of 4,000 lumen LED bulbs (same as the HID's bulbs). This is all directly plug and play no messing with wiring and re-pinning plugs. I highly suggest you do a clear lens headlight housing. Then the LED's for 9004 are listed in the store I've just not ordered any being I've not sold any of the smaller bulbs yet.

What was your intake temperature?

You've done your home work. Yeah I just got a call from a gent fighting this exact problem on his truck and its lifted and oversized tires are being used. Pretty common. The biggest problem is always when over sized tires are used it changes the geometry pretty good. Even you admit that... Tires are the biggest problem with these front ends once you step up past 285's it just gets worse. I've opted to stay away from oversized tires. I've used 235's for years now step down one 1 inch to 245's. The 245's gave me lower EGT's, better towing power, better towing MPG's. (14.7 MPG towing 17,300 GCW). Never had any steering issues. Everything last at least 100k miles or more. My Ball joints are at 200k miles now. Brakes last over 200k miles. Tie rods ends went 350k miles. OE steering box was still tight but rusted the shaft damaged the seal. BlueTop Quick ratio (only can be used on 265's or smaller). Track bar will last at least 100k miles. I'm currently on 245/75 R16 Hankook ATm's (30.5 inches). Been through 4 sets of these getting between 60k to 70k miles on a set of tires. I destroyed 1972 Dodge Power Wagon doing lift kit and over sized tires. I was breaking the front drive line, u-joints, steering boxes, and ball joints, etc. Barely got a 100k out that truck but spent nearly every weekend fixing the front axle and suspension. Since I kept away from oversized tires and lift kits on my current truck I've not seen any trouble with my truck now at 417k miles!

Most of us prefer the VCO's.

That the weird part. Like I followed @Me78569 guidance and got the 7 x 0.010 and popped to 3320 bar. Then my tune was different than what my truck liked. There is too many factors to even go over that affect why one truck likes more timing but the other likes less timing. Basically what I try to do is work more with the first 2 band (1,500 and 2,000) in timing. Now if you find those two that the truck performs the best at low engine loads then you can build the rest from it. Most people used the 1,500 to 2,000 bands the most so if you focus there to get started you'll find the right timing sooner. Now you know you going to need like 18* to 19* in the 2,000 RPM slider and then you'll need about a +2 to cruise timing that gives you a 20* at cruise.

@Great work! is right all those systems need to see the tach signal through the CCD network. I'm going to assume you got a P1698 code. Since the CCD network is not talking to the PCM then the PCM doesn't know the engine is running it can't see the tach signal.

Remember there is values like cetane that affect your tune. Out here the cetane is really low now and added timing is welcomed. Injector pop pressure will affect the injectors too.

Ok now I'm getting real information now I took some time to head into town and just talk. I found out the biggest hotel in town is closed because one employee was found positive for COVID-19. Hotel remain closed for now. There is rumors of a construction crew that has the virus too. The rest of town is still functional but lacking in business. Being the rock closure and the amount of time to get back and forth to town is getting old on every one.

If you have a lift kit (leveling kit) then you need to have the caster angles reset for your truck. Then you need to get the thrust angle corrected for the track bar if its not adjustable. Every truck with over sized tires tends to have geometry issues on the axle hence the wondering back and forth. It's not the brand of tire but how the lift was done and was all the adjustments done to bring the axle back where it needs to be.

Just easier to keep the web page up that all that cutting and pasting for a magazine. @015point9 thanks for the kind comments it keeps us going.

If you adjust your display so intake temp and fuel temp are next to each other you should see the two numbers hovering together. I typically see only about 120*F for fuel temp for the summer.

I was squeezing a bit higher above the 20 and 2,000 RPM's but I'm going to say which might of increase my chance of head gasket failure. I think it didn't help the stock head gasket and between that and head curl that most heads will get after about 300k miles of heat and cool cycles too. Being I'm already running 425 ARP studs I'm good to roll without any thought now. Most all my tunes start out at 14* or 15* and the only thing that pulls the timing up more is cruise timing but low low at 20 to 25% engine load. At a +4.5 step it puts my 2,000 RPM band 19.5* but now consider load base timing of 1* that makes it 18.5* just off of cruise timing where the load starts to climb. Still runs better at 23 to 24* cruise timing at 2k. Still got 7% engine load at idle. Injectors are starting to wear about 50% life.

I don't get freaked out by scare myths. Yeah Have a chuckle with your stroke comment. I heard that don't press the brakes to the floor you ruin the seals in the master. I better not push my clutch to the floor. It might ruin the seals in the clutch master. Right???

Yes there is one way. Test your batteries and replace. Period. If there was a sensor on both batteries then the batteries would be under charged because of the heat generation. Be glad in your case the battery was on the passenger side and was able to keep the driver side battery charged. If it was reverse you most likely be breaking out jumper cables. Already one battery WITHOUT the jumper between. Remember the block is more conductive and handles more current that any cable will. I've already proved there is only 3 to 4mV difference with or without the jumper cable.

Home a alone... @Wet Vette is down in Mohave Valley, AZ Soon as she get back home I'm going to plan another camping trip. This time I'm going to thing about heading into the high country where the day time highs are like 70*F for a high. It's been like 90*F here off and on.

Gotta ask what sized tires are you running? Really common for people installing oversized tires on 3.55 gear and driven the final ratio too low creating huge amounts of EGT's and drag. 3.55 gear and 35" tires is 3.27:1 final ratio. Optimally you want the final ratio to the ground in the 3.55 to 3.73 range and EGT's fall like a rock. Like myself I'm running 30 inch tires on 3.55 gear and the final is 3.69:1 to the ground. I can tow my 31 foot trailer at 65 MPH and never reach 1,200*F. Final ratio is a huge factor of EGT's. For anyone if you want oversized tires make sure to buy 4.10 gears or a truck already with 4.10 gears first. Not recommended to mount over sized tires on 3.55 geared trucks.

Hence why I make sure to change fluid every 30K miles before the moisture content of the brake fluid is rotting out the master cylinder. Hence why I've got 18 year old master cylinder that I can full stroke yet after 417k miles. That why I had OEM calipers for 300k miles because I kept the moisture out of the system and flush the system regularly. Heck I just did some brake work last week and full stroked it again to build up brake pressure again. I'll even full stroke the 1996 Dodge no issues that is a 24 year old master cylinder with 187k miles and still doing good. Again I keep up on fluid changes!

No. 1 amp fuse is cover all 4 of my gaugss. I picked a fuse that was key on for switched power.

I no longer use vacuum bleeders. I've got a old mayo jar with a piece vinyl tubing. Leave just a bit of old fluid in the jar. Open the bleeder screw, then hook up the vinyl tubing. Jump in the cab slowly pump the pedal full strokes to the floor. About 3 good long strokes you need to check fluid level. Then walk back and see if the fluid in the vinyl tubing is cleaner looking and air bubble free. Refill the reservoir and continue till the fluid looks clean and bubble free. Start at the passenger rear the driver rear. Then passenger front and then drivers front. Usually takes me about 2 quarts to flush and bleed the system. No need for a second man to open and close the bleeder screw. The fluid in the jar prevents back flow of brake fluid or drawing air. Works just as good as a pressure bleeder without the cost!

Enjoy the new extended life brakes. I use my exhaust brake daily.

No. Even my solar / hydro system has the same problem. One battery goes bad it fouls the entire battery bank and all 8 batteries would need to replaced. Roughly 4,800 dollars last time. As on our truck there is nothing can be done just both batteries should be replaced. Hence why I like lead acid batteries because I can maintain electrolyte levels and equalize charge when needed. Ive been getting 10 to 11 years from batteries. Solar system last about 15 years. As for shorted cells are from not doing equalize charge. Sulphation starts on the plate and later on flakes off and piles up in the bottom of the cells. The piled waste now shorts the cells If you do equalize charging you will bring that material back into the plate or solution and reduce the waste material. DO NOT equalize charge AGM or sealed batteries it will cause venting of moisture and cause possible explosion. Lead acid batteries with removal caps are fine. Just remember to check electrolyte AFTER charging.

Just reduce the charging voltage. In @JAG1 case it did nothing because the sensor is on the driver side. The passenger battery continue to boil from a shorted cell. It will on ly reduce the charge voltage to 13.2 as a low. This might make the other battery weak if the sensor see high temps. If it see low temps then the charge rate is turned up to 14.8. Even my solar/hydro system does the same thing but on a 24V scale. Correct...

No. Won't matter. Does not change the voltage. This is because there is only X mV drop from battery to battery. Just probe the batteries while running it will measure the same. If not you cable has a bad spot and voltage drop is occurring. Just need to replace the bad cable.