Mopar1973Man

If you go offroad make sure the filter bottoms are above the frame rail. Really does suck when the FASS is dangling down too low and go over a hump dirt and tear the filter off the base.

Weird ive always full stroked the pedal to make sure push all the trash out. Still OEM master at 416k miles no seal issues. On super black systems I disconnect the hoses from the calipers and drums. You don't want to push the trash in the bottom of calipers and wheel cylinders. What happened to me is the debris piled up in the calipers binding up the piston causing brake drag. Ended up getting a seal kits and rebuilding each caliper for about $12 an axle. Dark brake fuild is sign of moisture in the fluid which oxidizes the seals in the system causing leaks and master cylinder failure.

The reason this is not required is the simple fact of electricity wants to take the path of least resistance. Being that both battery are grounded to the block and frame there is going to be ZERO amp flow between batteries on the new jumper cable as long as the factory grounds are in good condition. Since all the electric stuff grounds to the body, frame, etc. The electricity will flow from the batteries into the frame or body. The only reason there would be any flow on that bridge wire between batteries is the fact one of the ground leads to the block or body has failed so the flow would start because of a bad ground cable. Now say the passenger side is 0.3 volt drop on the master cable now that bridge cable would make up that 0.3 Volts. This will mask the fact you now lost a passenger side master ground to the block. Now this is why I said do not do this mod because it will mask the failure of the block and body ground and increase the failure rate on the existing cable dumping more load and amperage on the remaining ground cable. Fix the factory cables if your seeing more than 0.2 Volt drop. Best to leave the battery to battery jumper cable out. This way when a ground cable fails its going to show up as a weakened battery on one side because of the bad cable. Very easy to test for like shown above. My cables are 18 years old and still only a 3 to 4 mV DC drop. @JAG1 in your case your passenger battery had a shorted cell and the charging system kept dumping power at a failed battery. The battery was charging but dumping lots of heat in that failed battery. Just like a failed cable you can feel the cable is will turn hot where it failed especially on these engines being the starter draws quite a bit amperage. This was not because the battery temp sensor wasn't on the passenger side. It not because of the ground cable. Simply put it was the failure of the battery and shorted plate. Just like I tell people not to add ground to APPS sensor, or add noise filters on the PCM for AC noise. All you doing is masking the AC noise problem and ground issue. Being W-T figured out the shorten the ECM and VP44 ground to the gear case that is a bonus being you now cut out over 4 feet of cable. Short length grounds are always best. Then the simple fact of the charge lead and ECM / VP44 ground running criss crossed ground and charge lead this was a absolute bonus to remove the noise issues.

Nope. The bumper I was working with was a thick steel winch bumper. I just lifted with the floor jack a bit of pushing and pulling to line up but, easy as pie push the bolts in by finger.

I'm not a anti mask type I believe in trying to protect yourself. I don't mind the mask for inside crowded stores. Im not going to wear a mask while driving alone. Im not going to wear a mask outside away from people. Yes I know @Wet Vette is considered high risk being diabetic and also with her pancreas problems. I know for a fact she is negative. Im 99% sure im negative to being im living with her.

I do the right thing just stay home as much as I can. If I go grocery shopping like yesterday yes I wear a mask but I've got one that seals to my face much better than medical grade. I do have exhalation valves. McCall is a mask REQUIRED city. Riggins is more of OPTIONAL mask city which most people social distance. Still the local hospital is EMPTY. Again being Eileen is doing medical test up there she has to be tested for COVID off and on. Every time I head to hospital the parking lots are empty. Minimal staff, staff being laid off. As for local economy in McCall prices of everything has jumped out of sight. Cube steaks are up as high as 7.99 to 9.99 a pound. Come back down to Riggins and fight the rock slide to get there. Now price are a bit better but with the Rock Slide it difficult getting supplies into town being most of it has to come through the slide from Boise. Today the by-pass road is closed, and so is the main highway. I'm cut off from Riggins due to road issues. Something about a water line has to be dug for home owner across Pollock Road today. I've been gearing more so to having all customers come to the house and work from my little shop. Leave the vehicles parked outside for a day in the heat cook the virus. Next day work the vehicle for its issue. We have been reaching 100*F here. Cab temp sore over 140*F easy on a hot day kill any virus left. I've left my other shop being there is just too many people in and out of that building. Wood working shop on one side for Salmon River Builders and then I rent the other side for 3 bays for automotive work.

@JAG1 Just to show there is ZERO difference. Using my jumper cable between both batteries on the negative posts using BOTH leads to give MAX gauge size. Still only 4mV drop between NO GAINS! Again this is NOT REQUIRED and not going to gain you anything... No reduction in AC noise or any improvement for voltage drop.

Just wanted to show people that if you exhale with a mask on this is where the COVID is going. Being COVID is very small like smoke this is where it blowing out at. Medical masks do not seal since they do not this how its spreads. Same spots where the smoke blows around is the same spot where you are going to suck in the COVID virus.

Weird part, wiretap is good. Now I can't get the Quadzilla to use the wire tap. Time to call Quadzilla and find out more.

I found that mask picture again...

Mine is nearly zero'ed out I just got to fix my wire tap I just found out last night I can only make 35 PSI of boost with full wiretap which tells me to test the voltage on the tap. The next thing would be call the insurance company and have the body work repaired after my truck rolled off into a 4th gen back in Feb. It been a cluster mess with the title issue being Mom and Dad's name were on it. I managed to file for a new title while the COVID-19 lock down started. I got my new title already and now just need the time where I can give up my truck for the body work. I'm going to go forward with a complete paint job too. This is a low priority right now being I need the truck for work mostly.

Exhaust manifold isn't going to change it much. The only thing that really is affecting exhaust flow is the turbine housing and how bir or small the housing is. That is the turbo cooldown timer. Showing its active. Just drill a second port in. I stacked the EGT's on the 4, 5, 6 runner.

Yes. I was just under a customer's truck doing headlight replacement and had to pull the bumper slight to get the headlights out and the new ones in. I used a floor jack to the center of the bumper to pick up the weight of the winch bumper and got the fender and light gap fixed again. Looks good. There is a good inch worth of swing up and down you can play with. If you need to snug the bolts and use jack to do the lifting motion without it falling or shifting on you. Then you can remove the jack and tight everything without the jack in the way.

Yup... Final ratio is too low. Take a peek at what I've got with 30" tires and 3.55 axle gears. Much lower EGT's. Lower Engine loads (using way less fuel). Even though I'm twisting 2,500 RPMs. I'll have to find it but I posted several runs on the I84 running 80-82 MPH and getting 20 MPG almost to 21 MPG.

Tried many times with no answer or response... (Gave up)

Man its been a weird month. Fuel gauge drops to empty comes back for a few days and quits for good. Find out the float wore out enough to slide all the way up the arm and let the arm sink to the bottom. Then had a ticking front on the passenger side come to find out passenger side wheel joint failed and the proceeded to break a clip and push the cap out will pull bushes out. About a month ago my cruise COAST button failed. I found a used switch on Maccari for $15 bucks, and installed it. Then last night figure I would play a bit on my performance tune and found out my wire tap isn't working (boost capped to 33 to 35 PSI). Most likely the tap screw loosen up a bit broke connection at the VP44. So what I've got fixed... Fuel gauge sender replaced Passenger front wheel joint Rear brake pads replaced (on pad rusted and separated)

Hence why I run the AirDog and the stock filter system. The AirDog 150 on my truck catches most of the water. What little makes to the stock filter maybe a drop or two... 3um filter on the AirDog and 7um in the stock filter can.

ABSOLUTELY NOT REQUIRED! As for the bad battery even with the extra ground it will not change that fact. The block is a bigger gauge cable that the bridge cable you want to install. Then the other fact all battery system only use 1 battery temp sensor PERIOD this is the same for all vehicles with dual batteries. Adding a extra ground between battery will not change that fact. Again the block is a bigger gauge cable that any bridge cable you can install. Even my house power system has only 1 battery temp sensor with EIGHT batteries any of the other 7 batteries could go bad and start cooking with heat and the sensor will not see it. Even though I've got 2/0 cables between all EIGHT batteries still will not stop this fact. Adding a 2/0 bridge cable for just a mere 3mV drop is absolutely NOT REQUIRED. The battery temp sensor is the yellow lead its attached to the battery facing toward the bottom of the picture. Simple fact is measure the voltage drop between batteries if there is more than 0.2 drop between your ground cables are failing. Adding a ground will NOT FIX THIS. You need to replace the exist ground not mask it with a another cable between batteries. Same problem with people adding grounds try to mask the AC noise problems DO NOT DO IT. So now I went out fired up the truck and measured the voltage drop as the grid heater were running I measured exactly 3mV drop from either batter to the block. Failing point is 0.200 VOLTS or higher this was 0.003 volts or 3mV DC Drop between battery to the block. The fun part is these are 18 year old stock battery cables and still near perfect condition with only losing 3mV drop to the block.

Yes you could... That will test to see if it actually is opening. What @Me78569 is looking at is it possibly that the spring is weak and the wastegate is blowing open dumping your driver pressure. A weak wastegate would be easy to blow open with enough pressure force on the gate. There is a forum post where people ditched the wastegate motor and used spring to hold tension on the gate so once it gets up to a set pressure just the drive pressure can force it open. What @Me78569 wants is for you to tied the gate shut and see if you can build more boost ot clear up smoke and EGT's.

Good deal on the gear change! If your up this way your more than welcome to stop in and chat too. https://mopar1973man.com/contact/

Just a heads up the last one that I followed on changing gear up here in McCall ID was close to $4,000 for front and rear gears to be changed to 4.10.

My Economy tune is based on a 3.55 gears on 30 inch tires which produces a final ratio to the ground of 3.69:1. Now over sized tires on 3.55 gears are going to shove that final ratio lower in number making it difficult to accelerate without smoke, my tunes can have high timing because of the 7 x 0.010 injectors are popped at 320 bar and the injectors are firing late, so advancement makes up for it. Then the final ratio being a high ratio number I don't need a lot of retarding to launch out so I can keep more advanced timing. I've got to ask what size tires are you running @ahlgringo ? You might take my economy tune and walk the timing back -1 degree across the board for larger tires and lower ratio. Optimally for these trucks you should be 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground after the tires. Just in my setup I'm in 4th by 25 MPH and in 5th by 45 MPH. 66 MPH is prefect 2,000 RPM and does great on two lane highways. Quick to build power and for passing. Already in the torque curve! 82 MPH is a perfect 2,500 RPM even twisting the engine this fast I still reach 20 to 21 MPG on the interstates. My tow tune got me down to Mohave Valley, AZ with a high mark of 14.7 MPG. Then over all average of 12.6 MPG towing a 31 foot RV scaled out at 17.300 GCW.

Even myself if I could I would jump for the that 62/68/12 for an upgrade. Funds are just tight for everyone with the COVID-19 crap going on.

Again 5.9L Cummins 6BT from 1989 (160 HP 12 Valve) vs. 5.9L 6BT from 1998 (215 HP 12 Valve) Better technology, better power production. Like I said I know I'm not a great setup with HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) but its bit better air flow vs the stock HX35W turbo (54/60/12) Does well in altitude been to 9,000 feet (empty truck) or 7,300 feet (towing trailers) no issues with EGT's so far.

Differential fluid (open or limited slip) should be changed every 30k miles or once every 3 years.