Mopar1973Man

Look at it this way the the ECM should control the lift pump for safety. If your in a accident with a key hot pump then the pump will not know to shut down because the engine has died (impact damage) which now could have a fire up front after batteries or electric shorts. The lift pump will continue to feed the fire will you burn alive in the cab possibly.

Per bulb.

Just like a found out not exactly fitting but shows how things can change. I had job up in Anatone WA doing a injection pump on a Case C580 backhoe. The fly weight spring had failed and it would barely idle. Pulled the injection pump sent it to Lewiston, ID (Idaho Diesel Tech). They rebuilt the injection pump. Next week we went up and installed the injection pump. Got it fired up the backhoe and it was smoking bluish white warming up. Talk with the owner a bit and he said its never smoked before. We called Idaho Diesel Tech we both agree to pull the injectors. We found out that #2 injector is physically missing a hole. So the other 3 injectors are four hole injectors but number 2 is physically missing one hole. Case C580 pencil injectors... No one would of uncovered this mystery until the injectoion pump was rebuilt and had good line pressures once again.

PCM is a the master computer. It controls the entire CCD network. Cruise control Transmission control Charging system Automatic trans shift controls Fuel gauge Volt gauge CCD Network Then next in line is the ECM... Which controls all the Engine functions. Tach signal Oil pressure Coolant temp Fueling VP44 (main function) Then the instrument cluster is the bus bias... Required module to set the bus voltage bias of 2.49 and 2.51 Volts. Central timer handles security, cab functions like heat seats, stereo controls, etc. CCD network allows all information to be shared over just two twisted wires. Remember the PCM is the primary computer the ECM is the secondary computer.

Yup. The green and blue are control by tach signal so the engine must be running to measure. the blue lead is typically +12V hence why the protection fuse for it. Prevent PCM damage from a shorted alternator. The green wire is a variable ground to control the charge rate vs battery temperature which the PCM checks and adjust accordingly. I do not suggest external regulators I've seen too many hooked up wrong and placement of the external regulator will cause under charging if too cold and over charging if the regulator is too cold. I still is a common problem with the older 89 to 91 trucks. Cold mornings here in Idaho (minus) they could over charge quite a bit.

Great work is right. Best to keep the match ECM for that block. Makes it worse when retro fits are done without the PCM because now you can't read codes. It required to have the PCM to read error codes.

I'm currently like 9 to 11 mV AC last time I check after doing the W-T ground wire mod. Big difference to the 55mV AC I was before the W-T ground wire mod. My whole process is the simplified version.

I've got 2 of these trucks. 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab (without Quad Doors), 5.9L V8 Gasser with a Dynamic built 46RE auto trans. 187k miles. 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab 5.9L I6 Diesel NV4500 transmission. 419k miles.

Just for other to know... I do have LED in stock...

I'm running the ISSPro EV2 programmable gauges. I've set my fuel pressure for 13 PSI and below for red warning lamp. Boost is set for >45 PSI warning light Fuel pressure is set for <13 PSI warning light EGT's is set for >1200F warning light Transmission temp is set for >220F warning light.

I normally just brake clean the spline shaft and leave the grease off the spline shaft. Yes it will splatter grease int the clutch. Throw-out bearings typically already have enough grease in the inner collar. Just make sure to clean it up after installing. Even fuel leaks around 4, 5, 6 can drip fuel into the clutch area.

Cranking pressute between 7 to 12 PSI will start every time. Above this will cause hard starting because it over advances timing making its tough to start.

Stock pumps tend to create cavitation when the lift pump is dead headed.

Hey, @dieselautopower you took away all my fun...

I just sold a DAP VP44 injection pump for $1,100 here in the valley plus the labor. Nice to have my vendors @dieselautopower and my sale tax permit I get these pumps at cost and make a bit of profit. I can't tell you my price because I'd have to kill ya when you hear my price.

Cranking pressure should be 7 to 12 PSI bouncing. If its too high it will cause hard starts.

Mine is a old 2G AirDog pump originally which lasted 250k miles and about 13 years. I got the short bed bracket so my AirDog is tucked right up behind the transfer case. Out of the debris path of the tires, warmer location for the fuel system and I've ran all the way to -40*F so far and no issues with gelling. I purchased it from another vendor in 2006.

No gains... I can clear the tank all the the way down to EMPTY mark no problem. There is less than 1/16" a inch between the bottom of my tank and the straw when the tank is empty. Then when I fill the tank with diesel is roughly 227 pounds and deflect the bottom at least another 1/4" inch. Never had pressure problems, no wild swing 1/4 tank issues. Cool fuel temps at the VP44.

Came in the kit when I installed my AirDog... Same straw for 15 years never had a 1/4 tank issue.

Exactly. This is proper ECM control of the lift pump it switches the 12V on and off at a about 50% duty cycle to reduce fuel pressure. This is so the proper cycle of the lift pump and should bounce the pressure at 7 to 12 PSI.

You remove the filler neck and filler hose. The LARGER hose you cut and slip in the return fitting. The smaller vent hose is left alone.

Like myself... 7 x 0.010 DAP injectors popped at 320 bar. HX35/40 Hybrid turbo (60/60/12) Quadzilla Adrenaline Smarty/Edge stack is bad deal for sure. Stacking any tuner is a bad deal. First off neither tuner has good timing control. Then you made a light switch out of the throttle. It can be 100% fuel by 30% throttle position. Too much fuel and no enough timing control. Trust me... I was a ex-Edge Comp runner and managed to make a heck of a high MPG number of 27.2 MPG. The problem is you have to drive below 60 MPH to keep the high timing on Edge products. Then with bigger injectors the timing is too retard and now it creates a lot of EGT's. Where with the Quadzilla I can up the timing to meet the injectors needs.

During the install you put the return tee in the filler hose not the vent hose. Just hose clamps in. Exactly why... The fuel coming out of the head is heated to near coolant temps. Then you drop back in a small cup of the sender and now pump it right back to the VP44. Never had a heat issue since my AirDog install. Back with the old school stock pump I use to turn the filters black from the heated fuel asphaltenes (if I correct in spelling). No longer happens since my fuel temp remains low typically same as the intake temp. Still not having 1/4 tank issues either.

I towed my 31 foot RV all the way to Mohave Valley AZ never had hsat issue with the engine. Lot of grades held my EGTs at 1,000 to 1,100°F but never got hot coolant wise. My biggest problem was transmission temp on the long grades. It was the radiant heat from the exhaust heating the transmission. I built a simple heat shield and drop 40°F on average.