Mopar1973Man

Always though it was foolish for running a 165 GPH pump on 3/8 hose. Adding a high volume pump with low volume plumbing. Return system is left alone. Supply system should be as open as possible for pressure stability. I'm also running an AirDog 4G 165 GPH pump with 1/2 inch lines and it is fairly solid in pressure hanging at 15 to 17 PSI.

First problem is the trailer frame rated for towing doubles? If not it will destroy the RV in a quick order typically ultra lites and light weight trailers are not designed for towing behind them. Safety wise I would look for another option. Not worth the risk of damaging the RV because possibly the frame isn't design for the tugging. Not to mention you'll need a brake controller for the towed vehicle behind the trailer. Personally I would haul the trailer first, then come back and haul the cart on a flat bed.

With my setup I'm at 410k miles. Now the first time I changed the tie rod ends was back at 350k miles. There isn't a real need for 3rd gen parts. The only trick to long life is staying away from oversized tire that add stress to these parts. I've used 235's and 245's sized tires for the life of the truck. To get 350k miles from the steering system is awesome without any braces, modifications, etc.

First off I would get a code reader and read all the error codes in number form. Then get a service manual for your year, make and model of vehicle now look up the error codes. This would be my first step to getting information on what is going on.

Lets put it this way I'm at 410k miles now only fluid I've used in my power steering is Walmart Super Tech and NAPA power steering fluid. I still have my OEM pump. Not to mention never installed a filter but change the power steering fluid every 30k miles. The only work done to my pump is new reservoir seal. That's it. Gear box would of still been in but I traded with Blue Top for a quick ratio. My OEM box was in perfect shape but input seal failed. No filter needed, no special fluids required.

This is why the heater core failed. Coolant was not changed and flushed often enough so the coolant pH now turns corrosive and eats any metals its touching including the heater core. Coolant should not be kept over 5 years or 100k miles. Even at 75k miles you might find the pH already going south. Replacement dashes can be installed while the dash is released from the firewall being I know that @dripley has done it.

Not shabby... Now lets see that Chevy after 300k miles and how its doing.

Like my OEM pump lasted barely 48k... Second pump with 128:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil lasted 243k miles. I'm way past the 100k mark now on this pump.

Camping in Idaho does not require a camp ground. Yeah all the the state and federal campground are closed if gated. There the others that are here are open and people are camping everywhere. Short's Bar, Island Bar, etc.

Even running the 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar, Quadzilla and HX35/40 hybrid turbo 60/60/12... Spools really good. With wire tap it can get rather hot.

DAP pumps are good pumps... I'm past 100k miles and still going strong no issues.

Interchangable. Bosch and ND alternators will both fit. I just had this happen on my landlords truck at my other shop. Did the W-T ground wire and pulled the alternator and the nut broke off the top bracket.

Not a sensor problem normally... Check the OBDII codes

Fuel sender is about 70 bucks from your local Dodge dealer.

Need 20 psi or more to move the arm.

True... But way more complex than the Quadzilla being duration is measured in mm3 and timing is dealt with way differently. Still limited by CANBus limitations and VP44 limtations. Which is nothing like CR engines. Which the Quad makes up with Wiretap and breaking the limitations of the CANBus, ECM and VP44. mm3 Has to play by ECM and VP44 rules.

APPS typically will not make a limit to throttle.

@Dynamic he would know what work where...

Here you go the fix... Remember this is 2nd Gen but I've found heavy duty flashers made for LEDs for both my early second gen and my later seconds gen.

@IBMobile those error codes are cluster codes not P codes. @Cummins5.9 as for batteries. Just pull the two black leads from the driver side battery terminal. Those are the power supply to the grid heaters. Second off you don't have to disconnect the batteries. There is two fuses in the cab fuse panel you can pull out in plastic clips. One is the IOD fuse (Ignition Off Draw) this is just like pulling the battery terminal and shuts off the things that are tied ot the battery like radio memory, interior lighting, etc.

Just remember the mm3 is only a 60 HP box on our truck nothing more than a Smarty s-03 tuner. If you have the full meal deal with all the software, dongle, etc. That is a very expensive tuner for only 60 HP. There is no way to get more out of that mm3 on our trucks. It was actually designed more so for CR engine that mm3 will now do about 210 HP. Just a heads up tho... Quadzilla is 180 HP tuner design mostly around the VP44.

W-T ground wire mod? Did you check ECM and VP44 grounds?

Not possible if the injectors are torqued to 89 inch pounds. Even on worn copper washers. If you not doing the install correctly yes it possible to have a compression leak into the return rail. All I would do is double check the torque of the injector hold downs. The only way to get compression gases to the fuel tank typically is a cracked head.

No. It takes everything I got to just pull the shaft over the wastegate arm. It heavily sprung. No. P0237 code is a lo volt code for the MAP sensor and has zero to do with the wastegate.This is a sensor or wiring issue.

Yes there is... It's the cam sensor on the 2002 Dodge. The early series had the crank sensor at the crank. Now ther relocated the crank to the cam and the cam sensor was ditched. I just changed my landlords cam sensor. All you need is a allen wrench and patience. Even with my big hands I got in there pulled it out and replaced in about 30 minutes. He had the same problem.