Mopar1973Man

Yes. Im 7 x0.010 injectors. But I'm popped higher at 320 bar. You most likely popped at 305 bar which give very little margin being 293 bar is bottom.

Another than cleans the plastic is 3,000 PSI power washer it will blow wax and compound out with 15° nozzle just mere seconds.

When engine load drop near zero injectors are wore out. Once it drops to zero the engine idle will rise. Like with summer heat my idle is back to 13% engine load again. Pop pressure will dictate what engine load percentage. Lower the pop pressure the lower the engine load. Like 310 bar is roughly 7 to 9%. Like my 320 bar injectors are 11 to 13% As for you down at 2 or 3% is roughly 260 bar which is below 293 minimum pop pressure.

Extremely hot... it grows on you. Lots of stuff to check out. Weather is a big limit on what you can do... Im not worried being this is Eileen's oldest daughters place so later in the winter time we can come back and visit again. The COVID-19 crap has most everything tourist wise shut down. It was great to get away and get mom off my mind. For my trip in years it was nice to get out and just go somewhere beyond Idaho, Oregon and Washington. Im lagging going home with active riots still around, also going to time it to leave during the coolest night. Im safe where i am at. Also I have my pistol and one rifle loaded yet.

Might be the pump timing slipped more retarded the more the EGTs will rise.

I'm without a Linux Computer can't download my SD card on Windows machine. So here is a few pics of my camera. Oh I'm carrying my 9mm and 30-06 rifle. Even got .22 rifle too.

We just visited Kingman AZ and stopped in the Chamber of Commerce. Trying to get a bit of info. We learned the shop owner next door is getting his jewelry store. The major of Kingman AZ just invited Black Lives Matter to town. This is absolutely wrong... We bailed out and head back home to Mohave Valley. Im safe here in out in the middle of nowhere. I've even called home and checking on home and local towns.

Skip the Rad box... you lose you speedometer when using the RD Box

Not exactly... You can power through but not cruise through. I know @Me78569 could answer this better.

Don't use a butter knife, use a spoon...

I paid $150 for a Cummins MAP senaor about 10 years ago. Very expensive. For you its about 121 pound UK.

Another thing learned today dont leave you peanut butter in the cabinet. Brand new jar and it is liquid at 115°F. You got to keep it in the fridge.

Since im in AZ I found out the locals typically install their water heaters outside and turn off the power. The sun can heat water very well. When I got here I plugged in to city power. Couple days later I started figuring tricks. Like this morning I jump in the shower and it was nice and warm but the water has not burn propane in 2 days. Tossed out my solar panels and charing an awesome 13.8 volts. Its only 7:19am an its...

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Yup, it super hot down here just went up town to get @Wet Vette and myself breakfast to go. Still floating 140°F or so. Does way better around at highway speed, it town traffic and stop and go it will creep a bit. Once back to highway speed it will creep back to around 140°F. So hot my dash just gave me the middle finger and started a new crack in the middle and it already 4 inch long.

Over thinking for sure. Negative cables should be as short as possible to the block not battery to battery. The block is much better bridge than long cable. Battery temp sensor works fine like it is only if both batteries and cables are in good order. The voltage should be the same. Its when the cables and batteries are failing will you see issues. Like myself still have factory cables and only my second set of batteries. Computer wise the W-T ground mod shrinks the ground cables shorter and reducing voltage loss in travel to ground. This cuts off 4 feet of cable and get ground fast from the block on large gauge cable than an extra 4 feet. Then it doesn't help having an AC rich alternator charge lead running parallel to the master ground cable for both the VP44 and ECM. After the W-T ground mod the AC noise will be null 10mV AC on average.

If it was a short it would thriugh a hi volt code P0238 or if it was dropping out it would be a P0237 code. If it was a overbooked issue because the boost fooler it would P0234 code. There is some weird conditions but rare to have a sensor fail within spec. The only thing you could do is replace the sensor. If the Quadzilla boost fooler failed it should run normal without the Quadzilla hooked up.

W-T Ground wire mod, and the PCM protection fuse mod will cure it permanently. All these articles are in the 2nd gen electrical section.

Central timer is above the throttle pedal in the dash. Go look at the CCD network article in the 2nd gen Electric articles wire map and what causes the code. CCD+ and CCD- should be 2.49 and 2.51 volts. Since there is ZERO on one side its either a short to ground in the computer or device or open connection.

Since I'm down here in Mojave Valley AZ the daytime temps are 112 to 116°F out it been getting easy for the teansmission to reach 170 to 180F without a trailer. Now with my homebrew heat shield is take much longer to get temp and is roughly 20 to 40°F cooler now floating around 140°F after going to Bullhead City AZ and back to Needles CA and home again just at 145°F compared to yesterday at 180°F. The test run was 50 miles in today's heat and traffic.

Thats why I'm having check the two red wires. The red/white is the trigger to turn on the Quad.

As for booat limiting ill make 22 PSI of boost but it just holds at 22 PSI and thorttle remain fairly limited.

Try with the Quadzilla one level ZERO. This basically shuts down the Quadzilla and runs stock ECM. If it drives fine here that means you have a setting in your tune or possible limits settings hanging you up.

Yes. But also in the early 2nd gens they used 215/85 R16 that was stock 3500. Then the other size for 2500 is 245/75 R16 or 265/75 R16 for 2500. I've rode in @IBMobile truck with 4:10 gears and 245s tires that is a quick truck. Then with @Dynamic built transmission very impressive power. @Ironforger yup that is it. Typically used in industrial transmissions like Eaton Fuller.

Yup... need to send back to Quadzilla for testing. Red wire is direct to +12V, Red/White is hooked to the fuse in the cab. (Key ON) power only. Quadzilla will only hold power on till it cools if the option is on. Then it should drop power on the Red/White.