Mopar1973Man

Home a alone... @Wet Vette is down in Mohave Valley, AZ Soon as she get back home I'm going to plan another camping trip. This time I'm going to thing about heading into the high country where the day time highs are like 70*F for a high. It's been like 90*F here off and on.

Gotta ask what sized tires are you running? Really common for people installing oversized tires on 3.55 gear and driven the final ratio too low creating huge amounts of EGT's and drag. 3.55 gear and 35" tires is 3.27:1 final ratio. Optimally you want the final ratio to the ground in the 3.55 to 3.73 range and EGT's fall like a rock. Like myself I'm running 30 inch tires on 3.55 gear and the final is 3.69:1 to the ground. I can tow my 31 foot trailer at 65 MPH and never reach 1,200*F. Final ratio is a huge factor of EGT's. For anyone if you want oversized tires make sure to buy 4.10 gears or a truck already with 4.10 gears first. Not recommended to mount over sized tires on 3.55 geared trucks.

Hence why I make sure to change fluid every 30K miles before the moisture content of the brake fluid is rotting out the master cylinder. Hence why I've got 18 year old master cylinder that I can full stroke yet after 417k miles. That why I had OEM calipers for 300k miles because I kept the moisture out of the system and flush the system regularly. Heck I just did some brake work last week and full stroked it again to build up brake pressure again. I'll even full stroke the 1996 Dodge no issues that is a 24 year old master cylinder with 187k miles and still doing good. Again I keep up on fluid changes!

No. 1 amp fuse is cover all 4 of my gaugss. I picked a fuse that was key on for switched power.

I no longer use vacuum bleeders. I've got a old mayo jar with a piece vinyl tubing. Leave just a bit of old fluid in the jar. Open the bleeder screw, then hook up the vinyl tubing. Jump in the cab slowly pump the pedal full strokes to the floor. About 3 good long strokes you need to check fluid level. Then walk back and see if the fluid in the vinyl tubing is cleaner looking and air bubble free. Refill the reservoir and continue till the fluid looks clean and bubble free. Start at the passenger rear the driver rear. Then passenger front and then drivers front. Usually takes me about 2 quarts to flush and bleed the system. No need for a second man to open and close the bleeder screw. The fluid in the jar prevents back flow of brake fluid or drawing air. Works just as good as a pressure bleeder without the cost!

Enjoy the new extended life brakes. I use my exhaust brake daily.

No. Even my solar / hydro system has the same problem. One battery goes bad it fouls the entire battery bank and all 8 batteries would need to replaced. Roughly 4,800 dollars last time. As on our truck there is nothing can be done just both batteries should be replaced. Hence why I like lead acid batteries because I can maintain electrolyte levels and equalize charge when needed. Ive been getting 10 to 11 years from batteries. Solar system last about 15 years. As for shorted cells are from not doing equalize charge. Sulphation starts on the plate and later on flakes off and piles up in the bottom of the cells. The piled waste now shorts the cells If you do equalize charging you will bring that material back into the plate or solution and reduce the waste material. DO NOT equalize charge AGM or sealed batteries it will cause venting of moisture and cause possible explosion. Lead acid batteries with removal caps are fine. Just remember to check electrolyte AFTER charging.

Just reduce the charging voltage. In @JAG1 case it did nothing because the sensor is on the driver side. The passenger battery continue to boil from a shorted cell. It will on ly reduce the charge voltage to 13.2 as a low. This might make the other battery weak if the sensor see high temps. If it see low temps then the charge rate is turned up to 14.8. Even my solar/hydro system does the same thing but on a 24V scale. Correct...

No. Won't matter. Does not change the voltage. This is because there is only X mV drop from battery to battery. Just probe the batteries while running it will measure the same. If not you cable has a bad spot and voltage drop is occurring. Just need to replace the bad cable.

If you go offroad make sure the filter bottoms are above the frame rail. Really does suck when the FASS is dangling down too low and go over a hump dirt and tear the filter off the base.

Weird ive always full stroked the pedal to make sure push all the trash out. Still OEM master at 416k miles no seal issues. On super black systems I disconnect the hoses from the calipers and drums. You don't want to push the trash in the bottom of calipers and wheel cylinders. What happened to me is the debris piled up in the calipers binding up the piston causing brake drag. Ended up getting a seal kits and rebuilding each caliper for about $12 an axle. Dark brake fuild is sign of moisture in the fluid which oxidizes the seals in the system causing leaks and master cylinder failure.

The reason this is not required is the simple fact of electricity wants to take the path of least resistance. Being that both battery are grounded to the block and frame there is going to be ZERO amp flow between batteries on the new jumper cable as long as the factory grounds are in good condition. Since all the electric stuff grounds to the body, frame, etc. The electricity will flow from the batteries into the frame or body. The only reason there would be any flow on that bridge wire between batteries is the fact one of the ground leads to the block or body has failed so the flow would start because of a bad ground cable. Now say the passenger side is 0.3 volt drop on the master cable now that bridge cable would make up that 0.3 Volts. This will mask the fact you now lost a passenger side master ground to the block. Now this is why I said do not do this mod because it will mask the failure of the block and body ground and increase the failure rate on the existing cable dumping more load and amperage on the remaining ground cable. Fix the factory cables if your seeing more than 0.2 Volt drop. Best to leave the battery to battery jumper cable out. This way when a ground cable fails its going to show up as a weakened battery on one side because of the bad cable. Very easy to test for like shown above. My cables are 18 years old and still only a 3 to 4 mV DC drop. @JAG1 in your case your passenger battery had a shorted cell and the charging system kept dumping power at a failed battery. The battery was charging but dumping lots of heat in that failed battery. Just like a failed cable you can feel the cable is will turn hot where it failed especially on these engines being the starter draws quite a bit amperage. This was not because the battery temp sensor wasn't on the passenger side. It not because of the ground cable. Simply put it was the failure of the battery and shorted plate. Just like I tell people not to add ground to APPS sensor, or add noise filters on the PCM for AC noise. All you doing is masking the AC noise problem and ground issue. Being W-T figured out the shorten the ECM and VP44 ground to the gear case that is a bonus being you now cut out over 4 feet of cable. Short length grounds are always best. Then the simple fact of the charge lead and ECM / VP44 ground running criss crossed ground and charge lead this was a absolute bonus to remove the noise issues.

Nope. The bumper I was working with was a thick steel winch bumper. I just lifted with the floor jack a bit of pushing and pulling to line up but, easy as pie push the bolts in by finger.

I'm not a anti mask type I believe in trying to protect yourself. I don't mind the mask for inside crowded stores. Im not going to wear a mask while driving alone. Im not going to wear a mask outside away from people. Yes I know @Wet Vette is considered high risk being diabetic and also with her pancreas problems. I know for a fact she is negative. Im 99% sure im negative to being im living with her.

I do the right thing just stay home as much as I can. If I go grocery shopping like yesterday yes I wear a mask but I've got one that seals to my face much better than medical grade. I do have exhalation valves. McCall is a mask REQUIRED city. Riggins is more of OPTIONAL mask city which most people social distance. Still the local hospital is EMPTY. Again being Eileen is doing medical test up there she has to be tested for COVID off and on. Every time I head to hospital the parking lots are empty. Minimal staff, staff being laid off. As for local economy in McCall prices of everything has jumped out of sight. Cube steaks are up as high as 7.99 to 9.99 a pound. Come back down to Riggins and fight the rock slide to get there. Now price are a bit better but with the Rock Slide it difficult getting supplies into town being most of it has to come through the slide from Boise. Today the by-pass road is closed, and so is the main highway. I'm cut off from Riggins due to road issues. Something about a water line has to be dug for home owner across Pollock Road today. I've been gearing more so to having all customers come to the house and work from my little shop. Leave the vehicles parked outside for a day in the heat cook the virus. Next day work the vehicle for its issue. We have been reaching 100*F here. Cab temp sore over 140*F easy on a hot day kill any virus left. I've left my other shop being there is just too many people in and out of that building. Wood working shop on one side for Salmon River Builders and then I rent the other side for 3 bays for automotive work.

@JAG1 Just to show there is ZERO difference. Using my jumper cable between both batteries on the negative posts using BOTH leads to give MAX gauge size. Still only 4mV drop between NO GAINS! Again this is NOT REQUIRED and not going to gain you anything... No reduction in AC noise or any improvement for voltage drop.

Just wanted to show people that if you exhale with a mask on this is where the COVID is going. Being COVID is very small like smoke this is where it blowing out at. Medical masks do not seal since they do not this how its spreads. Same spots where the smoke blows around is the same spot where you are going to suck in the COVID virus.

Weird part, wiretap is good. Now I can't get the Quadzilla to use the wire tap. Time to call Quadzilla and find out more.

I found that mask picture again...

Mine is nearly zero'ed out I just got to fix my wire tap I just found out last night I can only make 35 PSI of boost with full wiretap which tells me to test the voltage on the tap. The next thing would be call the insurance company and have the body work repaired after my truck rolled off into a 4th gen back in Feb. It been a cluster mess with the title issue being Mom and Dad's name were on it. I managed to file for a new title while the COVID-19 lock down started. I got my new title already and now just need the time where I can give up my truck for the body work. I'm going to go forward with a complete paint job too. This is a low priority right now being I need the truck for work mostly.

Exhaust manifold isn't going to change it much. The only thing that really is affecting exhaust flow is the turbine housing and how bir or small the housing is. That is the turbo cooldown timer. Showing its active. Just drill a second port in. I stacked the EGT's on the 4, 5, 6 runner.

Yes. I was just under a customer's truck doing headlight replacement and had to pull the bumper slight to get the headlights out and the new ones in. I used a floor jack to the center of the bumper to pick up the weight of the winch bumper and got the fender and light gap fixed again. Looks good. There is a good inch worth of swing up and down you can play with. If you need to snug the bolts and use jack to do the lifting motion without it falling or shifting on you. Then you can remove the jack and tight everything without the jack in the way.

Yup... Final ratio is too low. Take a peek at what I've got with 30" tires and 3.55 axle gears. Much lower EGT's. Lower Engine loads (using way less fuel). Even though I'm twisting 2,500 RPMs. I'll have to find it but I posted several runs on the I84 running 80-82 MPH and getting 20 MPG almost to 21 MPG.

Tried many times with no answer or response... (Gave up)

Man its been a weird month. Fuel gauge drops to empty comes back for a few days and quits for good. Find out the float wore out enough to slide all the way up the arm and let the arm sink to the bottom. Then had a ticking front on the passenger side come to find out passenger side wheel joint failed and the proceeded to break a clip and push the cap out will pull bushes out. About a month ago my cruise COAST button failed. I found a used switch on Maccari for $15 bucks, and installed it. Then last night figure I would play a bit on my performance tune and found out my wire tap isn't working (boost capped to 33 to 35 PSI). Most likely the tap screw loosen up a bit broke connection at the VP44. So what I've got fixed... Fuel gauge sender replaced Passenger front wheel joint Rear brake pads replaced (on pad rusted and separated)