Mopar1973Man

Starting from bottom up. Boost scaling is correct. Pump low boost Scale push that up to 10 PSI you don't need wire tap as low as 2 PSI. Minimum pump tap fueling set that for ZERO % TPS Min is OK TPS Max OK Wire tap fuel 1,600 is OK. Cant see light throttle timing - 3* (this will get you to 19* at 2k) Low pressure timing reduct set for 5* (50% scaling makes this actual 2.5*) Reduct scaling 50% (This will get you back to advance timing quicker.) Max load offset 1* is good for empty truck but loaded you might need 2 or 3* Max on the timing should be brought down some. This is not what most think. This is the max you can get while in cruise state. You can force the Quad to dump cruise state when twisting high RPM's. What RPM is it hopping at?

Nope. 27 are just fine and dont need more weight of group 31 which can start our truck with one battery like back in the 1st Gens.

Should make a new thread and list out all the mods.

I do not suggest Edge Comp the timing will be too retarded, smoke issues, and nearly need to run it as a 2x3 or 1x3 to keep smoke down. I'm a 10 year owner of an Edge Comp. I hated that you loss most all timing above 55 MPH. This is with my old 7 x 0.0085 injectors +75 HP.

Might want to add a support ticket so we don't flood the post with this issue. https://mopar1973man.com/support/

Another spot the sniffer will miss is the compressor front seal.

5A fuse goes in the blue wire of the PCM. https://mopar1973man.com/subscriptions/

I'll be installing to new fresh cables to the rear of my truck. Salt has really ate them up bad.

My exhaust brake is always ON. 90% of all my stopping is done off the exhaust brake and service brakes are used typically below 25 MPH. 18 years later my exhaust brake is still going. If mine failed tomorrow I would switch over to a PacBrake PRXB which is possibly the best exhaust brake.

Look like it could be but the only way to find out is to pullan exist pin and look at the dimensions. You might call Auto Computer Specialist and ask them which terminals are used in rebuilding the socket for the ECM on your truck.

We had too. Being than less than 1% were donating and wasn't fair. more than 99% were riding on others for free. Now everyone pitches in a small amount making it fair for everyone. This means the diodes in the alternator are failing. People think the fuse is for a run away alternator and stops the alternator from runaway conditions of overcharging. Actually the fuse is too big for stock alternator to blow even at 100% field and loading of 195 amps of grid heaters. When the fuse blows this test me the diode(s) have shorted to ground and blown the fuse. I would highly suggest taking the alternator off and having it benched for AC noise issues. The 145A fuse was blown. Again the diodes are shorting out causing the heat issue. Heat is a sign of high current going where it should not go typically finding a path to ground.

Just the blend door. I'm talking the other doors like vent, def, floor, recir, outside air.

You could cap out the vacuum pump and see if the oil blow by is stopped.

Watch your engine load and fuel numbers. Engine load is 0 to 100% number. Your commanded fuel number is the 0 to 4095. Timing wise spread your timing out. Do a +4 between. Might even think about +4.5. I'm currently running a +4 spread. Now that winter fuels are leaving I've got to start inching back up in timing. I'm going to have to download my summer tune soon.

Not really set up for imgur for video. But Youtube is a better option.

Yup. No problem. 2003 and up are all electric stepper motors. 2002 and down is all vacuum driven.

Actually he's in New Meadows.

Looks like its idling high. Injectors might be tired too.

One of the perks of renting this shop.

Instantly you will gain boost with any gains of fuel. Turbo is ran by the expanding gases from the exhaust. More fuel means more boost. Not clean no. Tuner should be first really then any injector from there can be tuned out and made clean. You can roll back the fuel on the low boost cases and then pour the fuel on once the turbo spools.

Last trip to Boise with winter fuel was 21 MPG. Stuffing my transmission today.

Fixed...

Need coffee...

Hua. ??? No deleting here let me go look. I now remember there was a post with a comment I hit quote I thought... If I did sorry. I might of tap the edit link by accident. Total sorry. Being I'm bouncing between threads with you.

Top gear I'm in by 45 MPH. Puts me at 66 MPH at perfect 2,000 RPM. Use that Quadzilla watch the engine load numbers. This is how much fuel is applied. Now change things like tires and watch. What you want is ultimately the lowest engine load at cruise state. As you reduce engine load then the EGT's follow too they will go down as well. Tuning it just part of it, the other half is to shed your drag, rolling resistance, rotational mass. Takes time to hunt down these small parasitic losses.