Mopar1973Man

When the alternator field shorts to ground on the blue field wire it will completely burn up the PCM. This will cost you about 750 dollars to replace. Not to mention it burns up the voltage regulator completely in the PCM. The fuse will protect the PCM from any damage from bad alternators or wiring faults. Being the master fuse for the PCM is 20 Amp and the circuit board will not tolerate the 20 Amps on the PCB tracers at a dead short. The 5 Amp fuse blows early enough to prevent damage and been proven by another member that had a alternator short out and blow the field fuse. The fiberglass circuit board is gone there is nothing to repair.

Yes, more than enough time. No difference. I will not engage unless you seriously lagging on throwing a gear but with the exhaust brake on it just going to hiss a bit and not impact the shift. You can tap the throttle once and reset the 3 second delay. I've got a few other tricks. I've got a toggle switch on the stick. So when I'm traveling a grade I can let the truck coast and time to elapse the 3 seconds. Then when I toggle the switch its instant on exhaust brake then. Still to this day I'm doing brake pads replacements evey 180k to 200k miles. I use the exhaust brake for 90% of all stopping power. The service brakes (pedal) is only used below 25 MPH.

Beyond that you'll need to have the ECM repaired if the flashing continues I would contact Auto Computer Specialist in Florida.

W-T ground wire mod and the Alternator protection fuse is my suggested starting spot.

Even the older generation is being just as bad too. I've got people coming to me and saying "Everyone is going to get one way or another why bother trying."

There was a guy a while back that did a rocker panel repair and cab corner repair. He explained it all on the website here. I'll try to find it.

Like myself I just reduced the rolling resistance and don't need a deeper pan, or strengthening. My little 46RE @Dynamic built it 4 or 5 years ago. Since I swapped up tires to 215's on the 1996 Dodge 1500 now this little truck has some pretty low transmission temp even on the hot line. Typically float about 140*F. The only time I seen high temps was towing up a residential 8% to 12% grade to public lands to ride my ATV. Then we got it up in the 230 to 240*F realm. Speed limit is 15 MPH up this road. Can't get lock up so it was on the torque converter till I got parked just past start of forestry. I left the truck in neutral and idling and the temp fell off quickly after eating half a sandwich. Then shut down the engine. This only happened once... I plan on changing the ATF+4 and the filter really soon. This is where a manual transmission shines. Because there is no slipping or torque converter to heat up.

I'm going to post up what I see as well. I know Riggins, ID was still in the 3.xx9 realm for fuel.

The auto adjuster of the drum brakes as you face the axle face the ratchet arm pulls up. So to reverse this and look at the backing plate side should be down. Hence what I said a bit ago.

That is the problem with people today we all got narrow sighted and thinking only of our own families which is fine but also think about how your choices affect other families. When we go shopping we don't spend every last penny on TP clearing a shelf off. Nope, we get what we need for the 1 week or 2 weeks most. 2 cans of this, 2 cans of that, 2 boxes of this and 2 boxes of that. I've got faith that Good Lord will provide us with what we need. In the same token you have to be sensible as well and not hoard products of any type. If you have extra anything share with other around you. Like yesterday knowing we were heading towards Lewiston I called my neighbors which are in their 80's. Asked if they needed anything? Like most of my energy is spent here at home making space for other to possibly escape the cities and craziness if needed. Like Eileen has 5 siblings, then 3 grand kids too. If anyone wants to take a chunk of yard to park a RV you more than welcome. The only thing I ask is everyone contributes to supplies and work. I'll share what resources I've got as well. At this time I might not have a lot of food but I'll be still tending the website and turning wrenches even if the light go out. I'll share my bit of light, shelter, food and my knowledge so you can keep going!

@Me78569 took a 4th gen VGT turbo and built his own controller. He's got the articles for this mod. He even has the software code for the controller. He's the best guy to talk to about VGT turbos.

Mine is just hooked to the PDC where the red lead from the battery comes from the driver side battery to the PDC. Right on that stud is totally safe for the AirDog and the terminals will not rot. That is also a good spot if you have done the W-T ground wire mod. If not do not use this side again if the fuse blows it will wipe out the fuel pump motor.

Typically its a too tight of torque converter or too low of stall on the current converter. I know @Dynamic would know more.

Parking brakes (2001.5 and up)... Spin the starwheel away from the axles tightens. Drum brakes (2001 and down). I'm pretty sure its spin the starwheel down on both sides.

Yes I do. My girlfriend (or possible wife) can't be on high carbs because of the pancreas problems. Riggins, ID no longer has any wheat bread or lo carb options. This is all about balancing her blood sugars. Myself I can eat anything and be fine which I've had check my blood sugar and after two big cups of coffee with sugar I was a mere 107. McCall I just check with @Taz hes just a few miles from McCall and tells me what they have or don't have. Riggins, I'm typically in town working somewhere. In the mean time Russ called yesterday and told me he's got a full week of work piled up. I know what I'm doing for Monday. I'm going to take today off after driving most of the day yesterday to Lewiston, ID - Clarkston, WA. I'm happy to see Walmart isn't too bad most of all the products are there. Dry beans are gone, dry fruit is gone, canned beans are gone. One thing not affected by all this that I've found is herb shops (If you know what I mean). Still handling customers, prices still low and plenty of product. This is another requirement for Eileen being her pancreas is still having issues she uses a bit of herb to gain her hunger so she can eat and keep her blood sugar under control. Still waiting for Medicaid to give her the green light for more testing and get this fixed. Eileen's blood sugar plays a huge role in how she feels and how much energy she got. As long as we can keep her balanced she does pretty good. I know today she'll be tired from the long haul 250 miles to Lewiston and back. As for yesterday I've got to fix a few programming issues on the inverter. Came home to the inverter errored out and shut down. I'll get the program fixed yet on the inverter. I'm also planning on working in my own shop today cleaning up and moving Eileen's storage back to the living quarters side and gain my small shop back for working in. If my job doesn't need a two post I'll work from home. Good Lord has gifted me with many things that I'm thankful for. I make sure to tell Eileen thank you for all the things she does for me. Being she is unemployed and fighting to get disability she has a hard time with me handling all the bills and her bills to boot. But that is what you do for people that you love. I know this only temporary. We are both being put through several trials... Good Lord gives providing a window to squeeze though every time, when the door slams shut. Just like the phone call from Russ "I've got jobs", going to Lewiston, We got the needed supplies for Eileen's diet, she providing a econo car (Hyundai Elantra) that is cutting more fuel cost but allowing us to get the needed supplies.

Clarkston, WA in Walmart.

Hua? Are you hooking to the alternator? Don't do this! If the alternator blows the fuse or circuit breaker it will for sure wipe out the pump motor. Only hook up the supply lead to the PDC on the battery stud not the Alternator stud. This will give good power to the fuel pump without having issues with voltage or corrosion on the terminals.

Small solar system can do a bunch. Like I said the RV is just a mere 45w panel set (3 panels of 15w a piece). Then the main house is a 400w panel set (8 panels of 50w a piece). Depends on how fast your recovery time will be. Main house is 24 volts system at 400w is 16.6 amp charge rate, inverter is 4,000w at 120 VAC which is a 166.6 amp draw on 24 volt or 33.3 Amps at 120 VAC. 820 amp hours of power. RV is 12 volt system at 45w is a 3.75 amp charge rate. Inverter is 1,200w at 120 VAC which 100 amp draw on 12 volt or 10 amp at 120 VAC. This system could us a 6V battery upgrade, more capacity amp/hr wise. Kind of made a programming mistake and caught the inverter in a constant inverting mode and ran the batteries to the cutout limit and the entire house shutdown and went black. Opps. Fixed my programming and back to working right again.

Oh what my efforts have done so far for power bill on the main house. Turned off the heat pump, running my inverter more, heating with wood. Next month will be lower.

Factory tune is quite deeply retarded which builds good boost on demand but not very efficient for MPG's.

What are you do here already @dripley??? Seriously when you do get to Idaho I've got a place for power (110V and 15A) and water for you. You can even dump your tanks here in the yard. (Sewer clean out near the guest house). I'm going to start getting ready for back country camping soon. Just waiting on the snow to leave in the high country and get access to the forest.

DRBIII tool is needed to train the key fobs to the Central timer and PCM of the truck. Head to dealer...

Not many people own a Snap On scanner. I'm one that doesn't. Love to but not for their price... Ugh...

Head to Durobilt I'm sure they will get you a good deal.

First off when you do a flush of the power steering system it takes 2 quarts just about to fill an empty system. You need a gallon of power steering fluid being you need to push at least 2 quarts through the system to clear the power steering pump, hydroboost and steering box with fresh fluid and top it back off after the foaming settles after the system getting air in the lines. 410k miles on the factory pump. I've only use WalMart Super Tech for the 410k miles and change every 30k miles like you should. Never had a foam problem. But if your using a turkey baster you only getting about 1 pint out of the 2 quarts that is in the rest of the system. Gotta ask do you just dump out your oil filter and top off or do you drop the drain plug and drain and fill your engine oil? Of course you drain and fill completely. This is why people have such issues with Power Steering system because they do not do it correctly. As for brakes life just upgrade and install a exhaust brake. Pads last me up to 180k to 200k miles easy. There is no other way to reach this kind of longevity without the exhaust brake and you must use it every time and everyday. As for brake fluid it has a life span too and system need to be dumped and bleed again every 30k miles. This is another fluid that is hygroscopic that means it pulls moisture from the air. As brake fluid absorbs moisture the boiling point will fall. The next problem is the moisture have oxygen in it and it oxidizes the rubber which causes the black color in the fluid and the rubber line failures. If the brake fluid is dark in color I would dump the entire system and start over. Be aware any debris in the master is heading for the calipers or wheel cylinders. If you push too mach debris in the calipers you can bind them up causing sticky brakes. I typically pull the lines from the calipers and let drain into a waste bucket. This way the debris doesn't enter the calipers or wheel cylinders.