Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Mopar1973Man

Owner

Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. The only thing it does NOT power. Cooking stove (Propane 2 burner stove, or propane BBQ or Coleman white gas stove) Oven (Use the RV is needed bad) Drier (Hang clothes out on the deck) AC and Heat pump (We never had A/C or heat pump in the past) Even thing else is covered including my water heater (converted to 110VAC at 1000w) and my 220 Well pump. My previous mode I was running YES. I had running sell mode so when I was over producing I could sell the extra power back and roll the meter back some. Cheapest bill I've seen is like $35 bucks, this was years ago. I'm only production is solar and I've only got 400w watts of panels. 4,000 watt Trace Inverter 120 VAC Modified Sine Wave 120V to 220V step up transformer 8 lead acid batteries (820 Amp/hr) Solar Controller Pelton wheel (200w) OFFLINE no water yet, plumbing failure from a fallen tree. This system is already be 23 years old I replace the first set of batteries at 12 years. This set of batteries 11 year old. Still powering my house day and night no issues. When I flipped over I was only drawing 2 AC Amps. We stayed on batteries all day long till the sun went down and then it transfer back to city power. Teaser... My 31 foot Jayco RV is set up with 45w of solar panels, a HF 1,200w inverter, and two 12V deep cycle batteries. That little system works very well and supplies plenty of power to run TV all day, charge cell phones, lighting and water pump for the RV. If you look close on the the right side of the RV my panels are already out. Charging at 14.1V yesterday in the sun. This is a get away rig on the ready if Eilen has medical appointments we will have all that we need without having to be in restaurants and hotels. Reducing our contact with possible sick people. Here was are completely out of TP still. Already warned this might not be corrected for some time. Bigger cities like Boise are getting all the supplies before our little town does. Trucks are not load full but smaller loads of whats left that Boise hasn't taken or Lewiston. Now something to consider and watch. Our little local store is out of TP, rice, dry beans, flour, etc. Now the last time I was in Lewiston it was more of the box stuff missing and beans, rice, flour was not touched. Use this to your advantage to finding stuff you don't have locally. Most people are NOT wearing mask or gloves to shield themselves from the virus. There are only a few I've seen using PPE to attempt to protect themselves. Another thing that is starting to piss me off. Eileen does have a existing medical issue. Medicaid is being a complete PITA now holding her in a waiting pattern for treatment. Still need to have her pancreas tested and scanned again in Boise. Boise hospitals right now do not have any active Corona cases in St. Luke Hospitals. But they are not authorizing the treatment, but holding. The other half that has me going nuts is finish getting our stuff moved into place and Mom's stuff boxed up and moved out. I've got big items like a couch and TV cabinet that needs to be sold but I'm not going to start inviting Corna in my home to sell furniture. My home is piles of boxes and bag every where. We managed to get the spare bed clean up enough for any of Eileen's family to escape the city. Still need to bring Eileen's stuff back from her storage in Nampa. Ugh! I've got a few job still popping up and can give a bit more income but I'm trying to balance my work load between fixing and cleaning my own home up and then fixing customers rigs. Like my next vehicle is a Ford with a bad manifold gasket, leaking coolant. I've got a brake job on Chevy I need to make contact with the owner. But yes yesterday managed to get quite a bit done around here and make daily life a bit more comfortable. Firewood split up and got a full stack up here in the main house. I cleaned up all the firewood chips and burned them off yesterday. As I sit here in front of the computer and looking out 4 floor to ceiling windows, it calm and peaceful out here. (8am 3/21/2020) Truckers still traveling the roads. Once in awhile you see cars. Mostly yesterday was RV heading north. I'm betting most of the McCall crowd is getting froggy after being trapped in the snow all winter long and still trapped in deep snow. I've got a pretty good size trash pile in the lower yard which is mostly all wood and limbs. I called my Fire Chief and told him I would like to hold a fire training at my place to work with the fire trucks and get some the new guys trained up too. We have new fire truck even I've not had the time to play with yet.
  2. I stayed home and got busy cleaning up the house and yard. Then @dripley family can by for a visit picking up all the ticks and bugs in the yard. I continued cleaning my yard and splitting firewood. Closed my gates to the public and not dealing with jobs right now. Too much risk to be inside a customers vehicle and not know if the Corona Virus. My gates are closed to the public till this backs down. I even got the RV ready and clean bedding in case we have anything that we have to do with medical appointments for Eileen. Then I've got to finish splitting firewood and getting it stacked in the shed. We ran out of wood this morning and I stayed home to get the firewood done and brought in. Then took some other measures too reduce money flowing out on bills. I turned my house over to low battery transfer. In other words as the solar and batteries are full and keeping charge the house is power directly from my inverter and nothing from the city. This is to keep my power bill low and so I don't burn through my saving I do have left. The AC IN GOOD is actually flash showing the city is up and running but the INVERTING light because I've shut out the city and running on my own power.
  3. My landlord (Russ) sent down a huge batch of starters and alternators to Durobilt. The only problem they where quoting a high price of $150 a alternator to be rebuilt and Russ bought his alternator for less from NAPA. Still he had some rebuilt but was quoted all needing rebuilt for $150 a alternator. For what ever reason I walked in and they rebuilt mine in mere minutes and quoted $40 bucks. Just remember on the ceiling is a huge sign stating they will beat any price by 5%.
  4. Just pick up a alternator. Have it tested before you pay for it. DuroBilt is in Nampa ID and rebuilt my alternator for $40 dollars and just needed brushes.
  5. Thanks. I remember dealing with a 1st gen with a PCM issues about 4th gear or lockup. But never got to play with the truck to see.
  6. A518 was a 4 speed with lock up (pretty sure).
  7. Not really. Like my truck I've never had a issue being in the summer I unhook my grid heaters. Then in the winter hook them back up. In his case his relays that control the grid heater are arcing and sticking after 350k miles. Kind of would look like the worn contacts in a starter after a while. He needs to replace the grid heater relays. Remember it more about fixing the problem than drilling holes and adding bulbs on the dash that were never needed till 20 years later. Problem is the grid heater relays are shot. I posted this so people fighting a 150A circuit breaker issue with it popping is most likely the grid heater sticking for excessive long periods. In this case it popped a breaker so hard it trashed it in 2 days. Won't reset again (broken internally). This is why my breaker is installed in his truck. My new one is here I just got to install back in my truck. My last step for him is to fix the P0341 code which I thought was AC noise because of how random the issue was. Seems like I've got my first cam sensor to replace ever! I can reset the code and drive for long periods no issues and then restart later on trip the CEL and the tach drops to zero. Then when it drops it limp mode and lacking power bad. When the tach comes back it jumps back up to reading correctly and the power is back.
  8. Yeah you can add URL it just weird trick to do. You have to copy the URL in the address bar. For my Droid its hold your finger on the URL it will pop open and 2 card icon shows. Tap that. Now go back to the website long tap and PASTE should show up. Then tap and the link is pasted into the post.
  9. Ok. I did the ground wire mod for my landlord Cummins Truck. He had a bad alternator (Bosch) which was crossing the 60mV line with AC noise. After the the mod it dropped to 10 to 12mV AC. Typically it does make a huge improvement. Next day it pops the breaker. I assumed the diodes are bad enough to blow the breaker from shorting diode. Changed to a brand NEW Denso alternator. Drove the truck to my house and the alternator was hot and pop the 150A breaker again. At this point its my breaker from my truck in place and it popped again which my truck has never popped the breaker. Found out a sticking grid heater relay could produce a enough current draw at 95A to overheat the intake horn (clue) which melted the back of the vacuum valve for his exhaust brake. So I unhooked the grid heaters from the drive side battery problem stopped. The other clue was the truck ran the batteries dead a few times which is weird to have him complain about dead batteries? Now with the grid heater out of the loop seems like the problem is resolved pointing out the grids heater have possibly been sticking. Remember boys and girls grid heaters on post heat do NOT light any thing on the dash showing the grid heaters are running other than the batter voltage is typically low. In this case the volt gauge would hang low for several minutes before popping back up.
  10. Quadzilla hijacks the CANBus signal and tells the VP44 to take this priority message and pass this along and disregard the previous message. Friendly reminder... You can remove the batteries from the truck for 10 years and all the error codes and issues, will be still in memory when you hook it back up later. Lost of battery power will not lose any programming, error codes, or drivability issues. Ive done many videos and still have one where I disconnected the batteries for over a period of time and hooked back up and all the stored error codes remains. If you want to reboot all computers turn the ignition key OFF for 15 seconds and then start as normal. All computer do a fresh reboot. Disconnecting the batteries does nothing. The only thing it will lose is APPS calibration thats it.
  11. Not sure... I'm going to look into this and see if it continues myself I gave up a while back on the gallon display.
  12. Talk to @pepsi71ocean he did a full brake line kit if I recall correctly it was stainless steel lines?
  13. Ditch that isolator... Direct plumb that ot the gauge and put a cutoff valve if there is a leak. Isolators will cause gauge accuracy issues. I ran direct plumbed to a mechanical gauge for 10+ years. Now I've switch to ISSPro EV2 electronic gauges. Comes with USB programmable warning lights, programmable backlight you can match the brightness to the cluster, and programmable needle speed, then programmable aux relay to switch devices on or off like cooling fans.
  14. Depends. TorqueFlite 727 transmission No, Its a 3 speed with no lock up. This was renamed to 37RH There was a 4 speed with lock up. A518 model. Which this came to be renamed 46RE later in life. Then the 47RE came out in 1994. This was called A618 transmission (old name).
  15. The thing that worries me is most of the trucks I've been working out are just plain nasty inside. Spilled coffee and food on the carpets. Then to have to drive them in the shop, etc. Your customer could be sick. I don't have the means to sanitize a vehicle before getting into it. I'm always touching my face especially working under the vehicle on the two post. Just need to kick a bit of dirt in my eyes or face.
  16. https://www.obdlink.com/ This is the one he's talking about...
  17. I tend to agree there is a injector issue. It should never smoke if injectors and ECM software is working correctly (stock form). Might check for any error codes possibly...
  18. Most likely a connection issues between the column shift button and the PCM. That is all part of the PCM circuit. The button only makes it drop 4th gear. The lockup is controlled by the PCM and its software.
  19. Please when you do get it done make the article that would be a huge help.
  20. I wish someone could make a article about this. I've seen several people with older exhaust brakes and would be nice to build a simple controller for these older units using the ECM trigger like the old school Jacobs Brakes.
  21. Once lockup occurs there should be zero. (3rd OD OFF and 4th gear).
  22. Be Careful, it might not energize the wire till there is tach signal. Being the transmission control relay is on the same blue wire for the alternator field, which typically is not energized till tach signal (engine running).
  23. Bingo. Exactly what I thought... Thanks @Dynamic...
  24. I've always just torqued to 120 foot pounds wet or dry. 410k miles and still going no issues.

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.