Mopar1973Man

No one was hurt. But I'm now cut off from Riggins, ID. Maybe a week to clean up according to the rumor.

I'm working on building the store with common LED bulbs. I'm going to work at both 2nd gens and 3rd gen for now and get it populated with product. https://mopar1973man.com/store/

Do you mean 3.57:1 ratio final? 3.69:1 final like myself I'm at 66 MPH is perfect 2,000 RPM and at 80 MPH is 2,450 RPM's I've documented several runs at 82 MPH still getting 21 MPG. Remember for every 1 pound of rotational weight you drop is like dropping 8 pounds off the frame. Consider the weight of the wheels and tires too.

Optimal final ratio should be 3.55 to 3.73. Example stock mine came with 265/75 R16 tires and 3.55 gears (31.6 inches). Now drop to a 245/75 R16 tire (30.5 inches) not changes the final ratio to 3.69:1 which I'm currently running. When figuring it out you need to start from the stock design typically 265/75 R16 tires.

Possible maybe but never heard of it. I will say that you most likely going to have to pick up the gasket for the oil cooler from a Cummins dealer. I've had zero luck finding that gasket in normal part stores. Then you could remove the oil filter base and check the valve port. Bit safer working off the truck than dropping possible debris into the oil galley.

I tend to sway away from synthetic 2 cycle oil typically because the price per gallon but for that amount for a gallon isn't bad.

Give me a bit of time I'll get my access as a dealer and be able to quote prices.

Not the only time even I been busted for making stupid moves.

Synthetic alone is not slick enough. So friction modifer is added to allow clutches ans band some ability to slip without chatter. Again ask @Dynamic about this, this is how it was explain to me.

I'll make sure to list them separately as well. Im going to start simple with exterior and basic interior. Give me some time ill get other bulb options...

What I'm trying to find out if I produce kits of bulbs say like Exterior package of LEDs would you guys like to purchase a kits of LED bulbs for your trucks? Like for example the front switch back bulbs, rear tail light, LED backup lights, etc. I've just filed a application for becoming a vendor for LED products. I'm looking at expanding the store and adding more products. Now lets stay focused here on this thread with strictly LED lighting and I'll work with that for now. Like the external kit like... Red LED brake and turn signal bulbs Red LED cab brake bulbs White LED cargo light bulbs Front switch back bulbs -OR- front amber LED turn signal Front LED headlight bulbs (optional/maybe?)

Man, you got me thinking a bit... Injectors spray pattern poor or large droplets Valve lash possibly affect the compression of the cylinder Injection pump starting to fail Excessive drag brakes, tire pressure low, etc.

Now engine load % is up to 12% with A/C on.

Might be worth pop testing but looks good with that engine load and RPM. Valve lash?

Only reason I mention it I'm running rather border lined. 7% grade and floating 1,100*F for 20 miles does create temperatures. Difference between a 9cm2 and 12cm2 come to show better on long grade. Since the OP was mentioning towing at least 7,500 pound trailer which al very close to my 8,020 pound trailer.

What is your engine load at idle? What is your idle speed on a digital display like Quadzilla? If the idle RPM is above 800 RPM and engine load is serious low like 2 to 3% then your injectors typically are wearing out. Check for error codes or any P0216 codes. Lack of good timing will sink the MPG's.

Turbo is too small on the exhaust side 9cm2... (60/60/9) This will spool fast but create quite a bit of heat. 12cm2 housing would breathe better. Your running the same turbo as me but the exhaust housing is smaller. RV275 is basically a stock injectors of ISB motorhome edition. So any stock tune would work. The other heat issues is only a 4 speed transmission. If your running any oversize tires or lift this is another heat creator. Typically over size tire lower the final ratio and add stress to the drive train. +150 HP DAP injectors 7 x 0.010 popped at 320 bar HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 245/75 R16 tires (30.5 inch tall) makes the final ratio 3.69:1. 5 speed transmission, with the tire combo I'm in 4th gear by 25 to 30 MPH. 31 foot Jayco Eagle 8,020 pound trailer, 17,300 pounds GCW, total length 62 feet... 14.7 MPG high mark, 12.6 AVG MPG. Ran Quadzilla on kill all the way to Arizona and back to New Meadows ID no problems with EGT's. Only transmission temps.

Loose a lot of power and performance. Nothing bad will happen just the performance will drop off because timing would end up being wrong mostly retarded. Say like most p-pump guys run about 16* so your launch timing would be excessively high and make the engine struggle to launch. City cruising would be ok. Then on the highway it will most like be high EGT's because the top end would be too retarded. This is why the p-pump was dropped because of no dynamic timing like the VE or VP44 has. EPA and OBDII laws forced a change. Like my truck loves about 23* to 24* degrees at 2k RPM. Then about 14* to launch with little smoke.

The regulator is just a spring loaded piston that purges back pressure to the sump if it over like 80 PSI.

Low MPG you should be able to reach about 20 MPG. 14.2 MPG is what I getting with a 31 foot RV in tow.

Nope... I did a oil cooler gasket awhile back and never seen any screen.

Funny... I just went back to straight pipe 4 inch.

Oops on the 12V... so there is little to give there.

Exhaust brake... No dust, no wear period. Since I use a exhaust brake for 90% of all stopping my brakes don't wear at all 200k miles easy on a set of economy NAPA pads. No dust on the wheels till way down the road. Then for like myself I grab a bottle of Home Depot degreaser concentrate. Spray the wheels and wait maybe 30 to 60 seconds and hit them with the power washer and look like new again. Just did the demo on Ford 7.3L diesel two days again the owner was super happy he doesn't need to scrub wheels anymore.

As injectors wear out the pop pressure drops to very low. This makes the injector fire early. Hence the knock. The other way to test this is hook up a live data tool if engine load at idle is less than 3% its time to replace. If the engine load is 0% and idle is not resting at 800 RPM it will be higher. This is most likely where your at typically this is roughly about 260 bar (3770.98 PSI) Like my current injectors I idle about 10 to 11% yet being they were popped at 320 bar (4641.21 PSI) Minimum pop pressure is 293 bar (4249.61 PSI) according to FSM book.