Mopar1973Man

I'm kind of waiting too still...

Stock injectors are near end of life for sure. Mine lasted to 150k but the pop pressure was 260 bar where the minimum is 293 bar. Timing is off. When tuned correctly there is no smoke. Since Edge products do not allow for timing adjustments and your injectors are worn out most likely this is why you not building good power. Smoke is a sign fuel is too much and timing is off most likely retarded. I would suggest having your injectors pop tested and/or replaced. Another way to check is hook up a live data tool. Watch the engine load if it near zero or at zero but never cannot idle down to 800 RPM then the injectors are shot. I ran a Edge Comp for over 10 years they are a good tuner for only stock and RV275 injectors once I stepped up to +50 HP the timing was off and black smoke all the time, very difficult to control the smoke. Once I swapped over to Quadzilla Adrenaline the problems all stopped. Very little to zero smoke and currently running 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar injectors from DAP (+150 HP). I've been holding 19 to 21 MPG for 4 years of driving and 250k miles. My tunes are all posted on the download area and could help to build a better tune too. Currently I produce enough power that 3rd gear and up all I got to do is squeeze down on the throttle and the tires will spin for sure. Producing about 47 PSI of boost and about 500 HP to the rear tires. Still with all this power 19 to 21 MPG daily driver.

NAPA. They sell denso alternator all the time. Basically the grounds go to the gear case, then the recycled connector on the passenger side is used as a jumper from the driver side battery to the gear case bolt. Alternator charge lead is completely re-used. Jumps to the rear of the battery try and hooks to the 150A circuit breaker then the remaining lead wrap back around to the positive post and hooked up. Basically you don't need to by any wire. Just the 150A circuit breaker and the ring terminals. All wire can be re-used.

Well thank you very much! It does not call immigration because I am a citizen of the United States. :USflag: Have a nice day!

A/C should never cycle at an idle this means your low on freon. Check your A/C pressure on both hi and lo sides. Mine is solid on all the time and never cycles typically.

Nitto tires have a high rolling resistance. Ratio is good with the 305/50 R20 your running just the tires with aggressive tread tends to have more drag than smoother faced tire. Then your VP44 is most likely low quality most T-bred pumps. 0.078 lines are going to make your timing retarded most likely. What's your current timing on the Quad?

Here is the crazy thing... I was working and @IBMOBILE-JEN calls me to tell me she checked in on Mom. She was told by the on duty nurse that she is declining. Sleeping more. Just about the same time the case work from the hospital call @Wet Vette Eileen and tell her that there is no change in her condition. WTH? So I left work early and waited for the call that Eileen said the case worker was going to call back. I called a little after 6 to catch the staff before leaving for the night. Nope no phone call last night and no returned phone calls either. Then I get up this morning and the house is cold like 61*F and I look at the weather tower and sure enough its only +15*F outside. For now I'll use the heat pump. I need to run out and get firewood really bad. I'm running out and have to conserve what I've got left. Not to mention I've not had a day off (weekend in nearly 4 weeks now). Seem like my free days have been filled with all the running back to the hospital. Both of us Eileen and myself are worn out. She has been slowing sorting Mom stuff out. I've been trying to help with improvements like the bathroom. Same time I need to still fix my truck which is on hold till the Chevy is gone from the two post. I've already got it planned that as soon as Mom passes on. I'm going to take off for about a week to Eileen's Mom's place to met her for the first time (Susanville, CA). My problem is I need to break away from the normal running back and forth to Boise and Ontario. Heck even both Eileen and I want to go shopping in the north in Lewiston, ID. Just seem like every time we turn around something pulls us back to Boise, ID yet. I've got more than enough work to keep me working for a week yet. Being my expenses are now cut back a bunch without the $800 a month in fuel for dialysis trips. Then another $300 a month in eating out (breakfast and dinner). Now, I barely drive 30 miles to and from work compared to 250 to 350 miles a day.

Yeah but this donor transmission happen to have a electric shift transfer case which I didn't look at the floor shifter. I ended up pulling the transfer case and left it on the transmission jack. I gotta get the other transfer case that is in the truck bed. Yeah I get the use of this shift and all the tools for just a percentage take from the landlord. He keeps it stocked for me and allows me to use his NAPA account being there is a nice price break. As for Mom I went to see her Friday and Saturday. After a full week of no dialysis she is getting confused and rather nasty to me. As for Eileen @Wet Vette mom was all nice and pleasant. Rather tough... I know her time is short. As for myself I've been trying to get back to a normal life but with all the cleaning up of Mom's stuff its been a lot of work. Like right now my goal is to get the King bed from the Guest House to the Main House. Mom's bed would go to the trash, it well worn out. I've gone and fixed up Mom's bathroom, new shower head with a one foot tall gooseneck. Yanked out the shower doors and replace it with a standard shower curtain. Eileen has been working on the bedroom sort books out, packing up some of Mom's clothes. We've got a lot of work to do yet and slowly getting things fixed up and the way we both want it.

Today's project stuff a new used transmission.

Right here...

If you going to replace cables make sure to do as a pair. That way you'll have a even pull. NAPA does normally stock these cables.

There is several models of trucks with short box vs. long box, standard cab vs. quad cab, Danna 70 or Danna 80 axle. Etc.

Leveled in the front with spacers that you have to lift the rear because of the massive sag of the camper in the bed. Where the natural empty rake would be near level with just the weight of the camper. I would most likely keep the airbag because of the camper but drop the pressures way down to just help suppress the bounce of the heavy camper.

I won't suggest Moog at all. NAPA parts do work well and hold up a good average time. Like myself being a work through an account my prices on NAPA stuff is much lower in price. RockAuto is where I got my last set of ball joint I'm still running over 200k miles later.

Yup. By the time you add it all up the the price is higher on the mechanical side. Pre-filter and water separator, main filter, electric priming pump (addon), etc. Then the price goes up pretty good. If they had a kit with prefilter, water separator, and main filter with air separation, Then I would consider mechanical pumps. $621 for a just a pump. No filters, No prefilter, No water separator, no priming pump, etc. Funny part is I paid $520 for my AirDog 150, 13 years ago. Came with filters, plumbing, draw straw, electrical, etc. Each their own...

Like here on the site I sell both styles of Denso diodes. Now if you do the W-T ground wire mod and the PCM protection fuse then your all set... As for ECM and PCM rebuilders...

I'm pretty sure everything is the same. The hole in the block to the mount on the air horn. Just the dipstick and tube are different from truck to truck. 98.5 to 02 truck all hold 11 quarts. Industrial ISB engine may put the tube on the passenger side. Still the same hole size in the block.

1. Do the W-T ground wire mod then do the PCM fuse protection mod. You can keep your Denso. 2. New alternator and mods above. Will stop all these issues. 3. Best bet is to call Auto Computer Specialist in Florida. They can test, repair and reflash your ECM. Comes with a warranty which Smarty does not...

Should hook up the pyrometer so you can use the cool down timer and for data logging purpose. That would figure the boost leak too like @kzimmer said.

But you mention start at 15 PSI at idle and climb to 25 PSI... That is a 10 PSI swing.

Like I told JAG1 on the phone yesterday return to stock. He did a 2" leveling kit then using airbags to regain the rake because of the camper in the bed. If he returns to stock the natural rake will be there and the weight of the camper will self-level the truck. With ihs 2" leveling kit and the weight of the camper his truck is squatting which is where the airbag are trying to lift the tail back up so the rake or level is back. I've hauled thousand of cords of wood in my truck and know absolutely that stock front axle height with a full load in the rear will make for near level truck.

If you upgrade to 02 dipstick get both the tube and the dipstick. There the same capacity ofr oil but the tubes and dipsticks changed over the years. Plastic vs metal tube. Even the length of the dipstick is different.

Might be a good idea to do these mods...

Give you a clue. Normally I can hit 47 PSI. I pulled the wastegate hose off and left it open, then pulled 1 bolt out of the manifold. It whistles very loud but I was still hitting 43 PSI of boost. So a boost leak will not hold back boost pressure unless it super huge leak. So, with two big holes in the air system a bolt missing and wastegate hose hanging only lost 5 PSI. (HX35/40 hybrid turbo 60/60/12). Tuning has way more to do with boost. Improper timing will cause weak boost typically over advanced. Too little fuel in the CANBus fueling table will make it weak too. Running the wrong level. Like switch from wiretap level to Level 3 I can drop to a max of 35 PSI of boost.

That is because of the alternator had a short on the blue wire field lead. This will be a dead short back to the PCM which supplies the +12V. The PCM is protected by a 20A fuse and the circuit board can't hold the current flow. POOF! Magic smoke released form the circuit board. This is where the protection fuse mod comes in. This protects the PCM from current over 5A and the fuse blows not the PCM. Yeah I know you know that but the rest might not...