Mopar1973Man

My landlord (Russ) sent down a huge batch of starters and alternators to Durobilt. The only problem they where quoting a high price of $150 a alternator to be rebuilt and Russ bought his alternator for less from NAPA. Still he had some rebuilt but was quoted all needing rebuilt for $150 a alternator. For what ever reason I walked in and they rebuilt mine in mere minutes and quoted $40 bucks. Just remember on the ceiling is a huge sign stating they will beat any price by 5%.

Just pick up a alternator. Have it tested before you pay for it. DuroBilt is in Nampa ID and rebuilt my alternator for $40 dollars and just needed brushes.

Thanks. I remember dealing with a 1st gen with a PCM issues about 4th gear or lockup. But never got to play with the truck to see.

A518 was a 4 speed with lock up (pretty sure).

Not really. Like my truck I've never had a issue being in the summer I unhook my grid heaters. Then in the winter hook them back up. In his case his relays that control the grid heater are arcing and sticking after 350k miles. Kind of would look like the worn contacts in a starter after a while. He needs to replace the grid heater relays. Remember it more about fixing the problem than drilling holes and adding bulbs on the dash that were never needed till 20 years later. Problem is the grid heater relays are shot. I posted this so people fighting a 150A circuit breaker issue with it popping is most likely the grid heater sticking for excessive long periods. In this case it popped a breaker so hard it trashed it in 2 days. Won't reset again (broken internally). This is why my breaker is installed in his truck. My new one is here I just got to install back in my truck. My last step for him is to fix the P0341 code which I thought was AC noise because of how random the issue was. Seems like I've got my first cam sensor to replace ever! I can reset the code and drive for long periods no issues and then restart later on trip the CEL and the tach drops to zero. Then when it drops it limp mode and lacking power bad. When the tach comes back it jumps back up to reading correctly and the power is back.

Yeah you can add URL it just weird trick to do. You have to copy the URL in the address bar. For my Droid its hold your finger on the URL it will pop open and 2 card icon shows. Tap that. Now go back to the website long tap and PASTE should show up. Then tap and the link is pasted into the post.

Ok. I did the ground wire mod for my landlord Cummins Truck. He had a bad alternator (Bosch) which was crossing the 60mV line with AC noise. After the the mod it dropped to 10 to 12mV AC. Typically it does make a huge improvement. Next day it pops the breaker. I assumed the diodes are bad enough to blow the breaker from shorting diode. Changed to a brand NEW Denso alternator. Drove the truck to my house and the alternator was hot and pop the 150A breaker again. At this point its my breaker from my truck in place and it popped again which my truck has never popped the breaker. Found out a sticking grid heater relay could produce a enough current draw at 95A to overheat the intake horn (clue) which melted the back of the vacuum valve for his exhaust brake. So I unhooked the grid heaters from the drive side battery problem stopped. The other clue was the truck ran the batteries dead a few times which is weird to have him complain about dead batteries? Now with the grid heater out of the loop seems like the problem is resolved pointing out the grids heater have possibly been sticking. Remember boys and girls grid heaters on post heat do NOT light any thing on the dash showing the grid heaters are running other than the batter voltage is typically low. In this case the volt gauge would hang low for several minutes before popping back up.

Quadzilla hijacks the CANBus signal and tells the VP44 to take this priority message and pass this along and disregard the previous message. Friendly reminder... You can remove the batteries from the truck for 10 years and all the error codes and issues, will be still in memory when you hook it back up later. Lost of battery power will not lose any programming, error codes, or drivability issues. Ive done many videos and still have one where I disconnected the batteries for over a period of time and hooked back up and all the stored error codes remains. If you want to reboot all computers turn the ignition key OFF for 15 seconds and then start as normal. All computer do a fresh reboot. Disconnecting the batteries does nothing. The only thing it will lose is APPS calibration thats it.

Not sure... I'm going to look into this and see if it continues myself I gave up a while back on the gallon display.

Talk to @pepsi71ocean he did a full brake line kit if I recall correctly it was stainless steel lines?

Ditch that isolator... Direct plumb that ot the gauge and put a cutoff valve if there is a leak. Isolators will cause gauge accuracy issues. I ran direct plumbed to a mechanical gauge for 10+ years. Now I've switch to ISSPro EV2 electronic gauges. Comes with USB programmable warning lights, programmable backlight you can match the brightness to the cluster, and programmable needle speed, then programmable aux relay to switch devices on or off like cooling fans.

Depends. TorqueFlite 727 transmission No, Its a 3 speed with no lock up. This was renamed to 37RH There was a 4 speed with lock up. A518 model. Which this came to be renamed 46RE later in life. Then the 47RE came out in 1994. This was called A618 transmission (old name).

The thing that worries me is most of the trucks I've been working out are just plain nasty inside. Spilled coffee and food on the carpets. Then to have to drive them in the shop, etc. Your customer could be sick. I don't have the means to sanitize a vehicle before getting into it. I'm always touching my face especially working under the vehicle on the two post. Just need to kick a bit of dirt in my eyes or face.

https://www.obdlink.com/ This is the one he's talking about...

I tend to agree there is a injector issue. It should never smoke if injectors and ECM software is working correctly (stock form). Might check for any error codes possibly...

Most likely a connection issues between the column shift button and the PCM. That is all part of the PCM circuit. The button only makes it drop 4th gear. The lockup is controlled by the PCM and its software.

Please when you do get it done make the article that would be a huge help.

I wish someone could make a article about this. I've seen several people with older exhaust brakes and would be nice to build a simple controller for these older units using the ECM trigger like the old school Jacobs Brakes.

Once lockup occurs there should be zero. (3rd OD OFF and 4th gear).

Be Careful, it might not energize the wire till there is tach signal. Being the transmission control relay is on the same blue wire for the alternator field, which typically is not energized till tach signal (engine running).

Bingo. Exactly what I thought... Thanks @Dynamic...

I've always just torqued to 120 foot pounds wet or dry. 410k miles and still going no issues.

DRBIII tool is about the only thing I know of that reads the ABS codes. Even my 500 dollar Innova Code reader with both SRS and ABS can't read the Dodge ABS.

Not even a 12 volt system but a 5 volt system on the APPS. Typically 3.5 and higher will trip a code P0123.