Mopar1973Man

Hence why I run the AirDog and the stock filter system. The AirDog 150 on my truck catches most of the water. What little makes to the stock filter maybe a drop or two... 3um filter on the AirDog and 7um in the stock filter can.

ABSOLUTELY NOT REQUIRED! As for the bad battery even with the extra ground it will not change that fact. The block is a bigger gauge cable that the bridge cable you want to install. Then the other fact all battery system only use 1 battery temp sensor PERIOD this is the same for all vehicles with dual batteries. Adding a extra ground between battery will not change that fact. Again the block is a bigger gauge cable that any bridge cable you can install. Even my house power system has only 1 battery temp sensor with EIGHT batteries any of the other 7 batteries could go bad and start cooking with heat and the sensor will not see it. Even though I've got 2/0 cables between all EIGHT batteries still will not stop this fact. Adding a 2/0 bridge cable for just a mere 3mV drop is absolutely NOT REQUIRED. The battery temp sensor is the yellow lead its attached to the battery facing toward the bottom of the picture. Simple fact is measure the voltage drop between batteries if there is more than 0.2 drop between your ground cables are failing. Adding a ground will NOT FIX THIS. You need to replace the exist ground not mask it with a another cable between batteries. Same problem with people adding grounds try to mask the AC noise problems DO NOT DO IT. So now I went out fired up the truck and measured the voltage drop as the grid heater were running I measured exactly 3mV drop from either batter to the block. Failing point is 0.200 VOLTS or higher this was 0.003 volts or 3mV DC Drop between battery to the block. The fun part is these are 18 year old stock battery cables and still near perfect condition with only losing 3mV drop to the block.

Yes you could... That will test to see if it actually is opening. What @Me78569 is looking at is it possibly that the spring is weak and the wastegate is blowing open dumping your driver pressure. A weak wastegate would be easy to blow open with enough pressure force on the gate. There is a forum post where people ditched the wastegate motor and used spring to hold tension on the gate so once it gets up to a set pressure just the drive pressure can force it open. What @Me78569 wants is for you to tied the gate shut and see if you can build more boost ot clear up smoke and EGT's.

Good deal on the gear change! If your up this way your more than welcome to stop in and chat too. https://mopar1973man.com/contact/

Just a heads up the last one that I followed on changing gear up here in McCall ID was close to $4,000 for front and rear gears to be changed to 4.10.

My Economy tune is based on a 3.55 gears on 30 inch tires which produces a final ratio to the ground of 3.69:1. Now over sized tires on 3.55 gears are going to shove that final ratio lower in number making it difficult to accelerate without smoke, my tunes can have high timing because of the 7 x 0.010 injectors are popped at 320 bar and the injectors are firing late, so advancement makes up for it. Then the final ratio being a high ratio number I don't need a lot of retarding to launch out so I can keep more advanced timing. I've got to ask what size tires are you running @ahlgringo ? You might take my economy tune and walk the timing back -1 degree across the board for larger tires and lower ratio. Optimally for these trucks you should be 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground after the tires. Just in my setup I'm in 4th by 25 MPH and in 5th by 45 MPH. 66 MPH is prefect 2,000 RPM and does great on two lane highways. Quick to build power and for passing. Already in the torque curve! 82 MPH is a perfect 2,500 RPM even twisting the engine this fast I still reach 20 to 21 MPG on the interstates. My tow tune got me down to Mohave Valley, AZ with a high mark of 14.7 MPG. Then over all average of 12.6 MPG towing a 31 foot RV scaled out at 17.300 GCW.

Even myself if I could I would jump for the that 62/68/12 for an upgrade. Funds are just tight for everyone with the COVID-19 crap going on.

Again 5.9L Cummins 6BT from 1989 (160 HP 12 Valve) vs. 5.9L 6BT from 1998 (215 HP 12 Valve) Better technology, better power production. Like I said I know I'm not a great setup with HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) but its bit better air flow vs the stock HX35W turbo (54/60/12) Does well in altitude been to 9,000 feet (empty truck) or 7,300 feet (towing trailers) no issues with EGT's so far.

Differential fluid (open or limited slip) should be changed every 30k miles or once every 3 years.

Building tunes is a no big deal. If anyone want a hand at building tunes I'm more than willing to help out. As of OP's original question. The thing is when you start tuning and setting up timing you'll find that as you get the timing set up correctly the engine load will go down. I know stock ECM vs. any of my tunes might be about 2 to 5% lower engine loads on the Quadzilla vs. Stock ECM. This is because the stock ECM tune is retarded so more the flame front is turn into boost. When you advance timing more the flame is doing more piston work and less turbo work. Typically a good tune will roll on next to nothing for boost.

There is different things that affect timing amounts. Pop pressure the injectors are built too. High pop pressure makes them late (need more advance). Final gear and tire size, Large tires like more retard. Manual or Automatic (manuals like a bit more retard to launch). Cetane of the fuel. High cetane needs more retard since the fuel lights easy. Low cetane could use more timing because of its slow ignition quality. Best way I found is play with the timing on a flat quiet road. Then keep trying different values to the engine load goes down. Basically if oyu have a flat road and set the cruise for 65 MPH. if the current timing was 22% engine load and you advance timing a degree more and your next test at 65 MPH on your flat road nets you 20% engine load try advancing again if it goes down again keep going till the engine load rises. This rise will be negative torque in other words you firing so early that the piston is being forced down while traveling up yet. Then back off a few degrees and now you should be about right. Like my "economy tune" lands me right about 23* at 2,000 RPM at 66 MPH, 245's tires gives me a final ratio of 3.69:1. Being my tires are small and the final ratio is lower I can start up with more timing in the bottom end and do a spread of +4.5* between bands. 15, 19.5, 24, 28.5. Then have +4* for cruise timing. Even with my injectors at 320 bar this works out great. Engine oil temp float 160 to 170*F typically. EGT's are lower. MPG is up. This tune with high timing builds little boost till in the upper end. Not designed for racing... Switch tunes to my performance tune. I dropped to 14, 18.5, 23.0, 27.5... This gives me a bit better edge getting launched in a hurry from light to light. Fuel table is a bit fatter across the mid to upper end. With a bit less timing I'm now building more boost get launched.

That is huge...

Matter of fact I just talked to a gent this morning about his 03 Dodge and his 04 Dodge with the same intake horn. Those are choked compared to the 2nd Gen that flow thru fine. I must be OK being I'm only a 500 HP truck right?

Problem is the Edge Juice is only going to set up for stock injectors timing wise. If you injectors are any larger than stock this is where the problem starts to grow. I was Edge Comp user for over 10 years. As injectors get bigger the timing needs to advance more. EGT's will get out of hand and smoke included. Since switch to Quadzilla EGT's are no longer an issue even with 500 HP roughly because of adjustable timing. I run wide open on the Quad on towing tune and it really hard at 17,300 pounds on a 7% grade to even get close to 1,200*F with (7 x 0.010) injectors 150 HP cruise set for 65 MPH. My turbo might be a bit bigger on the compressor (60mm vs. 54mm) but the rest is exactly the same as a stock HX35W. Just be aware of this limitation...

McCall ID is a tourist trap town. The local mayor made a mask required city inside or outside. Most of use refuse to wear a mask outside. (Me included). Now as for Riggins, ID there suppose to be 1 case down here but never found out who. No one wears a mask down here. They do the right things with social distancing. Like myself I slept with the window open and its 53*F this morning so my nose is running and dripping this morning. Eileen thinks I've a got a few mild allergies (yeah I'm allergic to getting up and working - Right?) Seriously I do have a bit of issues but neither of us have the COVID-19 virus. She been tested not to long ago and still clean. Now up here is rather relaxed about the the whole Corona problem. Now @Wet Vette is in Mohave Valley, Arizona again. Her daughter want to break free for her own vacation. Arizona is one of the hot bed places between the air temperature being over 128*F in the last photo I seen and the most cases of COVID-19 coming out of Kingman, AZ. Little concerned about her being down there alone. She is a MA (Medical Assistant) so she understands masking up and all that. Now I've got to mention this WILL NOT NAME member called me 2 nights ago. He's was visibly upset, depressed and ready to quit. I talked to this member on the phone for at least 30 minutes. He's feeling the effects of the COVID-19 on his business. He's bills piling up to eyes and it getting worse. I told him you need to disconnect for you job for a short time and head home to your family. Now spend some time just letting it go for a day and then another day talking over the his issues with his family. Get some feedback on how to handle this issue he's in. Now in this realm I'm just as freak out as him because no one can see the end time of the COVID-19 lock down and restrictions. Between the rock slide blocking US95, detour time (2 hours for a 15 mile round trip) and thinning economy out here. It's rather spooky. I'm even very cautious about even spending the $1,328 to buy a VP44 for a local to repair their truck. The local economy is based on rafting right now and it nearly impossible to social distance on a raft or in a small drift boat. What we missed for income periods... Jet boat races, Riggins Rodeo, Salmon fishing (closed low count), now rafting is hurting... Even I'm managing to grab few job here and there but not like last year. When I met Eileen I did a picture of my weekly pay there was a ton a of cash laid out on the desk. Now I struggle to make just a quarter of that pile. The only thing different is I don't have the overhead of Mom and long distance travel and truck repairs. But I'm still paying bills on Mom's medical which I think I came to the end of... Yeah it depleted a bunch of my saving trying to hold it together and keep my cancer bill paid. It no day at the park for anyone... So all I can say is be smart about what you do and be careful out there.

Most likely a VP44 failure with the P0251 and P0252.

We would have to call it the JAG1 strain of COVID-19. No mask required.

Just remember you can throw matches at diesel fuel all day long and never get it to light off. Diesel fuel need to be heated above flash point to created vapor. Typically around 150 to 160*F.

Then the 10 to 12 earthquakes didn't help either. Mostly based out of Stanley ID area. Ranging 3.0 to 4.0 magnitude. Then is slid out and crushed that steel container like a plastic toy.

Extra ground strap between batteries is not going to make it better. That just points out the master grounds to the block are weak.

Still going to be a yellow mess... Being the bulb itsself will not produce any more light. 9004 and 9007 bulbs (1,500 lumens). The reflectors are still low quality and the pattern will be hot spotted. lot of scattering around the rim. The thing is the HID's I'm running are 4,000 lumens (Morimoto D2S HID's) this is a 35w ballast. These are 4,500 Kelvin color. Yeah I know everyone dislikes LEDs. 1996 Dodge 1500 is a standard headlight reflector (clear lens) but running a 4,000 lumens LED bulb (18 watts). Now you changing the light color with LEDs 7,200 kelvin color (bluish white) mere 18 watts vs. halogen at 2,500 Kelvin Color (orange/yellow warm color) using 55/60 watts. I'll try and remember tonight to fire up the 1996 Dodge and show the LED pattern.

Rolled through today and grab a few photos but only one is worth a darn... Look at that cargo container...

I tend to prefer soldering. The reason for soldering is the terminal is welded on and provides a solid connection that can never fail. Where a crimp can corroded between the wire and the crimp and later on fail. With solder filling the voids and welding the wire to the crimp there is no way for the crimp to slide off or corrode between. The solder seals the wire from wicking in any corrosive materials like battery acid as well. Like my solar / hydro system has 2/0 cables all soldered between each. 25 years later the cables are still sealed and no corrosive has enter under the jack of the cable. Also these are lead acid batteries (1,000 pounds) which never venting corrosive vapors if charged correctly. Then an update with the truck... All solder connections. All solid and clean yet. Passenger side with alternator charge lead on the positive post. Also take notice I've got ZERO corrosion on the battery and not venting anything. These are 8 years old. This is the second year of the W-T ground wire mod. Driver side battery. Terminals still in excellent condition. No corrosion or venting of acids. ECM and VP44 gorund still clean and tight. Here is the ground point. I will admit this ground cable could wick in acids easy being the solder doesn't make the jacket of the wire.

I've got to roll into town today for a job... I'll grab my camera and shot a few photos. Take a look at the containers these are shipping containers that were shoved out from the large rock fall. Give new perspective of the size of the rocks vs a normal semi-truck container. You see the temporary dirt road below, the highway is more inward towards the hillside barely see the south bound lane shoulder.

What I try to encourage is you to play with setting in a control environments. Like quiet streets or back roads in farm country. Every truck is different in what it likes to be tuned. For what ever reason my truck loves the 23 to 24 degree around 2,000 RPM. The engine load drops out very low, engine oil temps drop into the 160 to 170 realm. My economy tune has the wiretap late for the reason that most normal driving can be done without wiretap. But nice to WOT and have it kick in for passing. I'm constantly watching and learning and trying to squeeze out that extra 1% more power and efficiency. If you export your current tune you can import it back if need by if you screw up. The biggest problem both of us (Me78569) face is people wanting to product smoke. That is a sure sign your flooding out the turbo and need to cut back. Quadzilla allows you to make clean tunes that produce more power this way than all the old school coal rolling from like Edge Products and others. Why is this because as injectors get bigger you need to add timing. No of the other tuners allow for controlled timing adjustments. Then with bigger injectors you need to build a defuel zone to allow for turbo spooling. Once the turbo is spun you can drop in quite a bit more fuel. My Economy tune when the wiretap hits there is ZERO change in exhuast smoke but you sure feel the truck pack up and leave. I still get guys asking for smoke tunes... No one will build them because its such a waste. Smoke tunes are much slower than any clean tune @Me78569 or myself can produce.